This may seem an unusual theme for a tasting, and a couple of members of the group sought clarification. This was what was promoted:
There are noble grapes, and less noble grapes. Some of the less noble grapes are known for producing bland, neutral, or plain industrial wines.
However, there's exceptions to most rules, and this is no exception. Generally, there is somewhere on the planet where the stars align and you get a shining example of a grape variety that might normally be dismissed.
Of course, some people headed straight to Google to find out which were the noble grape varieties, and Google gives more than one option here. However, most of what was brought to this tasting could be considered to be lesser varieties, so we mostly accomplished our aim.
Two whites and eight reds were tasted, blind as usual with us only knowing the colour and vintage. There’s the usual disclaimer about the notes being a compilation of the group’s opinions, and this was a tasting where my personal opinions differed considerably for some wines.
The whites:
Marq Petit Manseng 2018 (Margaret River, W.A): Yellow bordering on straw in colour. The nose is modest and flinty, with some buttermilk and Granny Smith apples. The palate, by comparison, is honeyed and textured, with citrus, honeydew melon, lemon barley water, and cedary oak (apparently this has seen 10 months of older oak). There’s a sour note on the finish, and zingy acid. Apparently subsequent vintages of this wine are labelled ‘Gros Manseng’, and yes, Google was employed again to tell the difference
Well regarded by the group.Fox Gordon Fiano 2017 (Adelaide Hills, S.A.): Pale yellow in colour. There’s honeysuckle, lemon blossom and curd, lychee and sherbet on the nose, while the palate has preserved lemon and toasted hazelnuts. Acid is keeping the wine fresh, and there’s some chalkiness and viscosity. Short finish.
The reds:
Mayer Gamay 2022 (Yarra Valley, Victoria): A bright and vibrant crimson colour in the glass. There’s a blend of bright red fruits (red cherries, redcurrant) and earthy, forest floor and dusty characters. The palate is juicy, with cola, kirsch and dark cherries, and persistent acid. Tannins are fine and grippy and the wine has good length. The wine is powerful now, but there was discussion among the group about its potential longevity. Highly regarded by the group.
Pillastro Primitivo 2021 (Puglia, Italy): Deep crimson in colour. The nose shows very little primary fruit – instead, there’s barnyard, earthiness, tobacco, pot pourri and cherry liqueur. The palate is more of the same, with earth and smoky peat. It’s textural and viscous, with low acid and a short finish.
Wetzer Soproni Kekfrankos Blaufrankisch 2020 (Austria): Another wine with little in the way of primary fruit. The nose is meaty, with tobacco, shaved pencil, and is herbal. The soft palate is smoky with maraschino cherries, medium acid and a touch of alcoholic heat. Some tasters (including me) suspected brett was in the house – Bandaid was noticeable – and there was some astringency on the finish.
Hewitson Old Garden Mourvedre 2019 (Barossa Valley, S.A.): Crimson in colour. Rich and full nose of brandy, Christmas pudding, cherry cola, Kahlua, and cold drip coffee. The richness continues through the palate, which has more Christmas cake. Tannins are full without being overpowering. There’s glycerols, nutmeg and cinnamon, and medium acid. Well balanced and finishes long. Well regarded by the group.
Dominique Peron Gamay 2018 (Morgon, France): Crimson in colour. Austere nose, with fennel, aniseed, dried herbs, leather and earthiness. The palate shows soft acid and gentle fruits, sour cherry and firm tannins. Medium finish.
Carpe Diem Platinum Series Nebbiolo 2018 (Margaret River, W.A.): Crimson. The nose is jubey, with strawberry, cherry cola and menthol. The palate is soft, with chalky tannins and a rounded palate. It just seemed lacking, missing something.
Juniper Estate Singe Vineyard Shiraz 2017 (Margaret River, W.A.): Deep purple in colour. Liqueur cherry, violets, dark cherries, spices and florals on the nose. The palate is juicy and long, with integrated chalky tannins and prominent acid. Sour long finish. Fruit is starting to diminish, so this is a drink-now proposition. Well regarded by the group.
San Vicente Reserva Rioja 2015 (Rioja, Spain): Purple / crimson in colour. Christmas pudding, cola, brandy butter and tar on the nose. More Christmas cake on the palate, with full, drying tannins, and slightly tart acid. Again, fruit appears to be diminishing, but the wine is still showing how good it was a year or two ago.
An interesting tasting, due to its variety especially. The wine of the night was the Mayer Gamay 2022, although for me the Hewitson was the star by a large margin. Thanks to all those who joined us.
Cheers
Allan
