TN: 2001 Two Hands CS/Shiraz and 1996 Howard Park CS/Merlot

[Jon Reuter]

Last Thursday, I opened the 2001 Two Hands Bull and Bear Cabernet/Shiraz. Like other 2001s I've tasted from the Barossa, this was a big, dark, brooding wine. On the nose, I detected licorice and confectionary sugar -- two aromas I associate with shiraz -- but little blackberry or black fruit. Instead, there was a very strong aroma of roasted coffee. In the mouth, the fruit came forward in waves of creamy blackberry and blueberry; it tasted ripe but unsweetened. The wine also tasted of coffee and licorice, all framed by coarse American oak and serious tannins. Tasted blind I would have guessed a straight shiraz. On Friday, I pulled the 2/3 full bottle from the fridge and poured myself another glass. The black fruit was more pronounced on the nose and the oak was more pronounced on the palate. My recommendation? Good potential but a strong hold for now.

Last night, I opened the 1996 Howard Park Cabernet/Merlot (70%/30%) because I wanted an after dinner glass of wine and didn't feel like trying the Two Hands on day five. (That's not a knock on the Two Hands -- few wines are still interesting on day five and I get bored drinking the same wine each night.) The Howard Park was lighter in color than the Two Hands, more of a dark ruby red. On the nose, there were plums, red pepper, and tobacco, quickly reminding me how different Western Australia Cabernet is from Barossa Cabernet. In the mouth, the wine was medium weight with a soft, plush texture. The sweet plum and red cherry flavors quickly give way to tobacco and cedar. The finish was long and silky, with a hint of tannins and perhaps some vitamin C. (Is it common to acidify reds in Western Australia?) This was a very nice bottle of wine and deserved to be opened and consumed over a long dinner. Tasted blind I probably would have guessed Coonawarra (because of the red pepper). It has benefitted from cellaring but is definitely ready to go. Drink up!

Jon