Faber Vineyard 25th Vintage Celebration (Swan Valley)

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

To celebrate the 25th vintage at Faber Vineyard, John and Jane hosted around 80 lucky wine lovers for a Sunday afternoon of current and back vintage wines, along with a four-course lunch. I can think of worse ways to spend an afternoon ….

With 25 vintages under their belt, there was a lot of vinous history to draw on, and they did. The youngest wine was a newly released 2025 Verdelho, and the oldest a 2001 Shiraz. One of the highlights was the opportunity to look at (in some cases) young, middle aged and older wines from the same variety.

21 wines were on offer over the afternoon. I didn’t get to try all of them, but I made a valiant attempt and my (brief) notes appear below.

Faber Vineyard Verdelho 2025 and 2018: The 2025 is fresh and vibrant, with florals, tropical fruits and underlying honeysuckle. The honeysuckle emerged more with age (and John’s Verdelhos age very well) on the 2018 which shows toast, honey, lemon butter and has a lot in common with an aged Hunter Semillon.

Faber Vineyard Blanc de Blanc 2023 and 2013: The younger wine is crisp and dry, with flavours just starting to peek out under the bubbles and the fine line of acid. The older wine has filled out wonderfully, with biscuit / yeast autolysis, and hints of sherry and caramel.

Faber Vineyard Margaret River Chardonnay 2006: At full maturity, and showing vanilla custard and over-ripe peaches.

Faber Vineyard Semillon 2014: Shares a lot in common with a Hunter Semillon of similar age – developed lemon, honeysuckle, toast and lanolin. It’s not only Hunter Sems that can age, and this will go another few years.

Faber Vineyard Petit Verdot Durif 2017: A 50/50 blend of the two grapes. A lifted, almost perfumed nose, with violets, blueberry and just a touch of leather hinting at age.

Faber Vineyard Reserve Shiraz 2016: I hosted a vertical tasting of John’s Reserve Shiraz only a few weeks ago, and this bottle was consistent with the tasting note from that tasting: Deep purple in colour. Red and blackberries and plums on the nose, with mocha, dried herbs, cloves, leather and cedary oak. There’s bright red fruits on the palate, including raspberry, with chocolate, soft tannins, supporting acid and a velvety texture. Long finish.

Faber Vineyard Riche Shiraz 2015: A little lighter in intensity than the bottle we had a few months ago, but still medium to full bodied with ripe plummy fruit meshed with mocha and a touch of leather. This falls into the ‘middle aged’ category.

Faber Vineyard Mourvedre 2014: This from a tasting in May: “Light purple in the glass. Prominent earthy characters on the nose, along with cocoa powder, a hint of five spice, and soft red and blue fruits. The spice and juicy fruits persist through the palate, with integrated and barely noticeable tannins, and gentle acid. Medium bodied and round in the mouth, this is drinking well at 9 years of age, without any sharp edges at all. Unlikely to improve from here, however.” Too right – this was the last vintage of this wine before the vineyard was grubbed up.

Faber Vineyard Frankland River Cabernet Sauvignon 2020: The current release. Youthful, with lots of blackcurrant and cedar, and drying tannins. This still needs another year or two to settle down, but will be very good indeed then.

Faber Vineyard Riche Shiraz 2006: Leather initially, followed by stewed plums, eucalypt, and mocha, and surprisingly long finish.

Faber Vineyard Reserve Shiraz 2004: This was consistent with the same wine at the vertical tasting: Developed gentle stewed dark and red fruits, and chinotto. The palate shows plenty of bright red fruits, leather, coffee grounds and milk chocolate. Tannins are gentle, and there’s supporting acid. A very long and even finish shows a wine in perfect balance and has no sign of declining.

Faber Vineyard Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2002: The only MR Cabernet Sauvignon made by Faber, and a collaboration with Woodlands (they shared the wine). Initially smoky and oaky, with the developed fruit emerging after lots of swirling. Pencil / graphite on the palate as well.

Faber Vineyard Swan Valley Shiraz 2001: Surprisingly alive at 24 years of age: cedar, a little eucalypt, stewed plums (fading very slightly) and a slight earthiness. Still lively on the palate, with drying tannins and considerable length. Even from very early vintages, John was getting it right.

Faber Vineyard Grant Muscat: Liquid gold. Luscious, raisined, treacly, rich and utterly seductive. Enough said.

A fabulous afternoon, and a great way to celebrate a significant milestone. John is a humorous and engaging public speaker, and he was clearly chuffed at the turnout, and the opportunity to show some of his vinous history. Good onya John and Jane.

Cheers
Allan