A drop-in visit rather too near to closing time for this long-time Rutherglen stalwart to taste all the wines on offer (25 table wines plus ten fortifieds!). The corresponding benefit of few visitors, though. Big, roomy air-conditioned cellar-door. No evidence of a tasting fee. Quality thin, stemmed glasses, decent-sized pours. Informed staff. All you could hope for in a winery visit – full marks. A couple of ‘cellar-club’ buying options with a 10% discount and annual obligations from 1-2 dozen. I only managed a few highlights from the list but good to see them offering their top price wines as part of the tasting, even if I ran out of time to get there.
- 2023 Campbells Riesling - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
{screwcap, 11.5%, A$25} Very pale. Floral, pear apricot. I wondered about some botrytis influence, to be honest, although it’s dry. Medium weight, low/medium acid. Dry, soft, even palate, with a short-medium length finish. Not so attractive at the price. Possibly a lesser vintage than the following 2017 wine. - 2017 Campbells Riesling - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
{screwcap, 12%, A$34} Still pale in hue. Gentle citrus, slate, and an almost Germanic edge to it. Medium weight, with medium/high acidity. Lively palate presence, medium/long finish. Very good indeed, and with time still. Top drop. - 2022 Campbells Chardonnay - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
{screwcap, 14%, A$25} Fruity in the modern style, which is to say peaches, paw-paw, grapefruit rather than, for example, butter. Low oak, but the otherwise quite voluptuous, medium weight palate is held together with medium acidity. Soft medium length finish. Drink soon. - 2021 Campbells Chardonnay Limited Release - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
{screwcap, 13.5%, A$30} The reserve bottling, as it were, with more fruit depth and oak treatment v the regular ‘unlimited’ offering. Similar flavours, but with a seasoning of oak, some figs. Medium weight, medium length finish. Good for another five years and well worth the measly $5 premium! - 2018 Campbells Roussanne Limited Release - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
{screwcap, 14%, A$32} Stonefruit, granite, pear. Some developing earthy notes too. Can you drink sandstone? Medium acidity. Medium/full body, no apparent oak, dry, medium length finish. Interesting savoury wine that’s nicely balanced. - 2018 Campbells Viognier Limited Release - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
{screwcap, 12.5%, A$32} Some gentle apricot, not too flamboyant. Only a little oak spice to liven it up. Medium acid, furry fruit-spice texture. Soft, even dry , short/medium length finish. Ready to drink. - 2021 Campbells The Sixties Block - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
{screwcap, 14.5%, A$35} Extensive field blend from experimental plantings half-a-century ago. For the record; Cab Sav, Carignan, Souzao, Tinta Madiera, Tinta Amarella, Tinta Cao, Xeres (?), Cornifesto, Caracosa, Merlot, Royalty all from the original block. Plus later plantings of the same grapes, along with Touriga Nacional, Mouvedre, Graciano, Lagrein, Mondeuse, Tannat, Petit Verdot. Phew! The wine is plummy, with exotic spice and cordial notes. Savoury palate, fumey, earthy character too. No apparent oak. Has an ‘average’ air of tempranillo about it, if I was forced to pick one identity! Lively acid, low gritty tannins. Medium weight at best, medium length finish. Good for three-five years I reckon. - 2021 Campbells Cabernet Sauvignon - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
{screwcap, 14.5%, A$28} Idiosyncratic blend of CS with Ruby Cabernet in 60/40 ratio. Fresh berries, with spice more than herb. Warm character, low dusty tannin, little oak, but front-palate presence. Lowish acid. Medium weight, short/medium finish. Not quite convincing. Would be better with less ruby? - 2013 Campbells Cabernet Sauvignon - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
{screwcap, A$36} Blend of CS with Ruby Cabernet. Aged and leathery. More impressive than the 21 vintage, with better black fruit, integrated flavours, Gentle low dusty tannins, soft oak. Medium weight overall, and starting to show some acetic character. Medium length finish but at the end of its plateau I think. - 2017 Campbells Shiraz The Brothers - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
{screwcap, 14.5%, A$60} Flagship shiraz, and it shows. Ripe cherry and raspberry fruit. Soft oak. Intense palate, low dusty tannins/. Medium acid and weight overall. Medium/long finish. Balanced, classy wine with pretentions to elegance, too young now. Who says Rutherglen reds are all bruisers? - NV Campbells Classic Topaque Rutherglen - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
- NV Campbells Grand Rutherglen Topaque - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
- NV Campbells Isabella Rare Rutherglen Topaque - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
Three topaques (missing the entry ‘Rutherglen’ bottling) tasted side-by-side.
NV Classic Topaque {500ml, screwcap, 17.5%, A$40} Lifted honey & toffee, medium-sweet fruity palate somewhat emphasizing the sugar. Average solera age 12-15 years.
NV Grand Topaque {375ml, screwcap, 17.5%, A$70} Bigger aromas and flavours, still toffee, malt, walnuts but with a more toasted character. Still medium sweet, balanced with acidity. Long finish. Very good and quite a quality jump from the Classic, although the different bottle sizes disguise this a bit if you just look at prices. Solera age 25-30 years.
NV Rare Topaque ”Isabella” {375ml, screwcap, 17.5%, A$150} Almost black colour. Similar toffee and honey aspect of the Grand bottling, but with a smoothly syrupy texture, despite plenty of balancing acidity, and endless concentration. An extra level over the ‘Grand’ but not worth twice the money. Solera documented at 50 years, but longer in reality. - NV Campbells Muscat Classic Rutherglen - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
- NV Campbells Muscat Grand Rutherglen - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
- NV Campbells Muscat Rare Merchant Prince - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
Three muscats (missing the entry ‘Rutherglen’ bottling) tasted side-by-side.
NV Classic Muscat {500ml, screwcap, 17.5%, A$40} A bit simpler than the corresponding topaque bottling, this has fumy sweet raisins, is medium-sweet on the palate, and has a sweetly attractive medium finish. Average solera age 12-15 years.
NV Grand Muscat {375ml, screwcap, 17.5%, A$70} Extra concentrated raisin, molasses, dark chocolate and coffee bean. Plenty of acidity, body, balance. Huge step up from the Classic. So nicely balanced that it seems almost back to medium-dry, but that’s a trick of the comparison I think. Really outstanding wine (although no better than its Morris Wines equivalent, and that’s 500ml for the same price). Solera age 25-30 years.
Nv Rare Muscat ”Merchant Price” {375ml, screwcap, 17.5%, A$150} Startling intensity with a real burnt caramel overlay to the same flavours as the Grand. Extraordinary finish – you can still taste it five minutes later. Almost justifies its price premium. Almost! As for the topaque, the solera is documented at 50 years, but is older in reality.