Grand Cru (Perth) Tasting Group – Bordeaux Blends

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

The brief for this month’s tasting was Bordeaux blends -wines containing only grapes permitted in Bordeaux wines. Although this could have included white wines, the group all headed for the reds.

As usual, the wines were tasted blind, with only the vintage known, and from youngest to oldest. The notes below are a compilation of the group’s comments.

In addition, we also played the ‘country of origin’ game (while the wines were still masked). There were a couple of surprises in the line-up.

Ashbrook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (Margaret River): This contains smaller quantities of Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, was considered a blend while complying with the 85% labelling laws. Bright crimson in colour. There’s blackcurrant, mint, red plums and some cedar and vanilla from oak on the nose. The palate has relatively soft tannins and acid, with the fruit taking the lead – dark berries, plums, cherry and cranberry. Medium bodied. Approachable now, but experience tells me that this will hold and improve for several more years.

Picardy Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc 2018 (Pemberton, W.A.): a 51%, 29%, 20% blend. Crimson bordering on purple in colour. Unfortunately, a touch of burnt rubber on the nose impacted the rest of the aromas – soft red plums, cedar, dark chocolate, dried pine needles, and especially a ferrous aroma. The palate shows quite soft acid and tannins, and the wine is round with more juicy plims. The wine is a little thin, and there is a textural element. Some tasters considered this might have been an Old World wine.

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Le Haut De Granget 2018 (St Emilion Grand Cru): Purple in colour. The nose shows asphalt and graphite, blackberries, herbs, capsicum and rhubarb. The palate has moderate fleshy dark fruits, and is a little stalky. Tannins are grainy / gritty, and there’s a little stalkiness. The wine has good length, and a somewhat astringent finish.

Giant Step Harry’s Monster 2018 (Yarra Valley, Victoria): Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Purple black in colour. A fragrant nose, with mint and eucalypt, dark plums, blackcurrant, cigar box and graphite. The palate has plenty of dark fruits, persistent tannins and clean acid. Long finish and well regarded by the group.

Happs Three Hills Charles Andreas 2016 (Margaret River): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. A warm nose, with chocolate, dark and red fruits, pencil shavings, menthol and some wet leaves. The palate is more savoury and a little vegetal, with modest but grippy tannins and prominent acid. Good length and the group considers it unbalanced.

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Woodlands Margaret 2016 (Margaret River): Cabernet Sauvignon (67%), Merlot (17%) and Malbec (16%). Cedary oak, dark fruits and one taster noted butterscotch on the nose. There’s juicy dark and red fruits on the palate, with dark chocolate and a texture that reminds me of drinking chocolate or cocoa. The wine is medium bodied and well balanced, with good length.

Highbank Coonawarra 2015: This is a single vineyard wine, and the percentage of each grape in the blend varies accordingly from vintage to vintage. In 2015, it consisted of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (30%) and Cabernet Franc (5%). Blackberries, plums, graphite, mint and milk chocolate on the nose. The palate is quite full and mouth filling, with even more of that drinking chocolate texture. The fruits flow evenly over the tongue along with mint chocolate. Tannins and acid are integrating nicely, and the wine is very well balanced. Well regarded by the group.

The final two wines were clearly Bordeaux (as in the real French versions!):

Les Tourelles De Longueville 2011 (Pauillac): Red-purple in colour. Well developed nose, with savoury oak, pencil shavings, a touch of leather and milk chocolate. Fruit is there but in the background. The developed plummy fruits emerge on the palate, which is soft with well-integrated acid and tannins, more of the pencil shavings and milk chocolate. Medium bodied and moderate length.

Chateau Mongravey 2010 (Margaux): Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with a touch of Franc. Red purple in colour. Initially a lot of leather on the nose, with red fruits emerging (think of Wild Berry lollies). The palate shows more tangy red fruits (although well developed), freshening acid and milk chocolate. Tannins are prominent, and the wine is medium bodied with a medium to long finish. Highly regarded by the group. Ironically, this is the 5th bottle I have opened of this wine over a few years and the first that impressed me.

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So, three Bordeaux, three Margaret River and three other blends made for a well balanced and varied tasting. Wine of the night was the Chateau Mongravey 2010. Many thanks to those who attended and contributed to a very interesting tasting.

Cheers
Allan

[Waiters Friend]

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