TN: The Melbourne Wine Group Drink Too Much (again)

[mychurch]

The last tasting we had at Bar Romanee went well with just the right amount of wine for the number of people - 8 bottles + a port for 7.

This time I was hosting and it went wrong. The theme was meant to be Granite Hills V Seppelt Drumbourg Riesling, with the 00, 04, 08 and 13 down to taste. With a bottle of bubbles to start and finish that would mean not room for a red, so we altered the tasting to be a few 2004 Rieslings and a few reds.

I ended up far too drunk to take any notes (my fault for making the first pours a bit too large), so these are just some reflections.

We started with a lovely Sparkler from Granite Hills. We reckon it was the 09 Vintage (L009 on the label) and it had all the complexity you get from bubbles, with a gentle fizz. The only downside for me was that the mid palate was a bit rich and oily. Just missed a bit of tension. I hope they decide to make some more

There were 5 rieslings, to try - Seppelt Drumbourg (5*), Granite Hills(4*), Grosset Watervale(3.5), Mcwilliams Eden Valley (3*) and Barwite (3*). Different regions and price points, but as I said to the boys, I think Riesling is the kindest grape and its very hard to make a bad one. That was clear here. What was also clear was just how good the Drumbourg was. This was the only 1 where the acidity was still dominating and the tension, the fruit and the complexity were all tightly coiled together, Stunning stuff, It reminded me of my previous bottle of the Granite Hills, but this bottle was a bit fatter and more rounded than I remembered and did not have the zing nor the life of the Drumbourg. Still great to drink though. The other 3 were all similar. There was plenty of petrol and the fruit had filled out and was starting to dominate the acidity, Fat, but not quite in a Chardonnay way. I think this is the end point for a lot of dry Rieslings, but the fatness of the fruit comes with a lot of power, especially on the Polish Hill. These would all be fine for me sitting out in the garden tomorrow in 30 degrees weather.

Up next were 4 Shiraz - a 99 from Granite Hills (1.5*), an 01 St Peters (4*), a 98 Great Western Reserve (3.5*) and a 91 Great Western (4*). the GH came with 15% alcohol and was very much in the old "make em big" style. We left it alone and opened the Cab from the same vintage. It was a lot better, but on this evidence stick to the younger vintages as the wines have a lot more balance. As for the Seppelt, well they were great, Classy is my abiding memory. There are not powerhouse wines, but well crafted age worth reds. The 91 was the pick of the bunch as it had those extra flavours that cellaring brings, but the other 2 may be just as good in time, I think the majority favoured the St Peters, but for me it was just a bit too polished.

By this time we were all happy and had enjoyed a couple of courses of food, but we were in the mood for extras and so we continued with

1963 Chalambar Burgundy 4+*
1971 Hardys Reserve Bin Sauternes ( which was planned for) 3.5* +
An Unlabeled off dry Sparkler from Granite Hills 2.5*
1979 Ausbruch Somlo Muskat-Ottonel, Pieroth (Hungary) 3*
2017 Jurasaique Blanc, Latta Vino ??
2015 Yellow, Dentons ??

The star was the half bottle of Chalambar that defied its age. As with the a lot of these older Aus wines, there is an enormous streak of vanilla in the wine (the Sauterne had it as well), but around it there was still plenty if red fruit. The dregs were still drinkable 24 hours later, but my memory of the actual wine is too hazy, so I stick to 4*. The Sauternes was opened as it seemed to be leaking, Colour was very dark, but as usual sugar is your friend and this was another lovely Aus desert wine. Not up to the level of Cons 62 Porphyry though from a previous tasting.

The unmarked dry sparkler was given to me to try from the owner on the last visit to GH. No idea of the vintage, but it tasted like it might have been an early attempt at Sekt. Slightly gloopy, it didn't quite go with desert. Up next was the Pieroth - famous for being sold by door to door salesmen in the UK. Everything was done to the label to make you think you were buying a German wine and actually it did taste like a Tokaij in a German style. Lots of stewed red berries for me on the nose, with a dark colour, a lot of sweetness in the mid palate and a bit of bitterness on the finish.

By this time the extra cheese course had come out and we were talking about the best Aus Vin Jaune, Andrew had not tried the Denton, so I pulled a bottle out and a Latta to go with it. I do remember the Denton not being as good as a previous bottle, but there were 2 releases and maybe it was not quite the same wine. Could also, have been palate fatigue, No memory at all of the Latta - its in an oxidised style, but not with flor, so not really a fair comparison.

And that was that. Typical lunch for 6. Loads left over of course and miraculously no hangover the next day.

Next event will be the Xmas-bring-a-special-bottle lunch in Dec, and as that will be held in a restaurant, we will hopefully be a bit more restrained.

[cuttlefish]

Yes, another great afternoon and some really interesting wines.

The sparkling, "Nardoo" from Granite Hills for the opener was in fairly good condition. My first impression was "Biscuity", but then other tasters mentioned "bruised-apple" which I thought was a more accurate description. In any event, the wine was in perfectly drinkable condition. I got the impression that this was not merely a "traditional" blend (Chardonnay/Pinot Noir, etc). That oiliness and some of the aromatic qualities suggested to me that aromatic white varietals may have been a component here, but who knows..??

Flight 1
Grosset Watervale Riesling 2004
I loved this wine. It's a beautiful, developing gold colour. Pungently fusal and spicy. A surprisingly soft palate entry with very fine acidity. With time, there are talcy, mineral notes. The flavour is overall quite subtle; on what turns out to be a quite fine, but driving palate. It's juicy and treads a fine line with developed richness, but at no point is it overboard. Almost into orange fruit territory, which made it more charming for me.

Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2004
A much lighter, youthful golden straw colour. Not as aromatic as the Grosset, but way more youthful. There are notes of lime, citrus-pith, sea-spray and slate. The mouthfeel is lovely and faintly phenolic. Plenty of years left to go, here.

Flight 2
Barwite Riesling 2004
Still showing some spritz, with pungent petroleum and lime. A touch watery on the front palate, but then shows some length with extra waves of acidity. Still a great wine and feels like it has not budged much over the past ten years, which is when I estimate I last tasted this.

Flight 3
McWilliams Regional Collection Eden Valley Riesling 2004
Mid-gold in colour, There is sneezy, spicy petroleum and pepper notes, but relaxes to become more expansive, aromatically. A soft palate entry, with fine acidity. It is a touch watery. There's an aromatic quality that I cannot quite put my finger on, a little bit like the smell of capers; definitely a distinct savoury element, plus some orange-type citrus fruit. Perhaps in decline, now.

Granite Hills Riesling 2004
Faintly darker mid-gold in colour. Some faint honey and orange notes, here, with a touch of flint. Faint spritz, yet a richly developed wine. Good balance on the palate, with a bit of "sizzle" from acidity. Actually turns out to have a fairly big palate with some fullness to it.

Flight 4
Granite Hills Reserve Shiraz 1999
Pruney fruit notes, feeling stewed and falling over fairly quickly. Pepper notes with a slightly sour edge. Alcohol sweetness on the front palate and then a bit of heat from the alcohol detracts.

Seppelt St Peters Shiraz 2001
Still a dark claret colour. Notes of toasted cedar and pepper. The oak notes are significant, with a faintly funky undercurrent. Lovely density to the palate. Good bottles of this should drink well for many years to come. This was in great nick!

Flight 5
Granite Hills Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
Distinct green pepper/rhubarb aromatic notes, not dissimilar to cool-climate (Mornington/Eden Valley) merlot that I have experienced in the past. A little bit leafy. The palate is a touch hollow, with not a lot of grip. I found this a little too "glossy" on the palate.

Flight 6
Seppelt Reserve Shiraz 1998
Dark aged claret with a fine brown rim. Notes of toasted cedar and eucalyptus. Ferrous, aniseed, liquorice and raisins with sweet spice notes. Aged dark red fruits and blackberry on the palate. The tannins here are very fine; largely resolved. I'm liking the toasty oak influence, here.

Seppelt Great Western Shiraz 1991
Mid-claret colour, thinning at the rim, barely browning. Cedary, foresty aromas. A nice degree of barnhouse-floor, chicken-poo, farmy aromas, with a lovely wood-spice overlay. A lovely old wine with very fine tannins that give excellent balance to the wine. A drinking pleasure!

Flight 7
Seppelt Chalambar Burgundy 1963 (half-bottle)
Beautiful mocha notes, with chocolate and sweet wafer biscuit aromas. The palate is absolutely sound and concentrated. The fine tannins draw out to a good length, showing faint oxidisation, but a really beautiful wine. What a privilege to enjoy!

FInishers
Hardy's Reserve Bin Sauterne 1971
My minimal notes here read: very subdued nose; mint, apricot. From memory this was in quite good condition for it's age.

Granite Hills Sparkling Sec
Bruised apple notes. This came across very much like a farmhouse cider, to me.

I enjoyed, but neglected to take notes of the vin-jaune type wines (Denton and Latta Vino), but do recall enjoying them both

Thanks to all attendees, and to Cam for hosting! The food was epic; I left stuffed to the gills!

[VinoEd]

Great notes - thanks.

The December meet sounds like a good one. Subject to timing and family commitments I’ll have to do my best to stick my beak in!

Cheers Ed

[phillisc]

Thanks for the notes on the Sepplets, I am actually glad its under the radar, but its a winery I have rated for decades. Just ordered some more Drumborg and St Peters.

cheers Craig

[mychurch]

Great notes - thanks.

The December meet sounds like a good one. Subject to timing and family commitments I’ll have to do my best to stick my beak in!

Cheers Ed

Xmas get together is on Sat Ed - Chinese in Richmond with ‘bring a great bottle’ as the theme. Email me if you want to come and we can discuss - trying to arrange whites and reds so we have a proper flow to the lunch.