Coonawarra musings 2023

[phillisc]

A few notes from the August Roadshow and reflections from 3 days of tastings, dinners and other odds and sods. Great to catch up with a few familiar faces! Consensus from punters, winemakers, cellar door staff and I spoke to plenty of them, is that 2019 and 2021 are exemplary vintages, with 2022 generally looking good with some patchy conditions and 2023 with even more patchy conditions and reduced yields. 2020 however, is a million miles away, perplexing as some wines were fair and other simply rubbish…time may be kind, but I really doubt it.
Balnaves
2020 Cabernet Merlot, quite balanced and its probably the blend that gives this wine a bit of structure, 2020 Shiraz, soft but enough fruit to carry through, will be an early drinker. 2019 Cabernet, fabulous wine great vfm, picked up a few. 2016 Tally, completely over the top, but loved it, loads of blackberry, cool fruits and a whack of oak, will take decades.
Banks Thargo
2008 Cabernet, nice wine, peaking, drink now, 2018 Cabernet, excellent structure, lovely tannins, very balanced, integrated, in a great spot, visited the CD, picked up a few. 2018 Racecourse red, blend, early drinker, bit thin, but think that’s the style. 2019 Paroo Bagman, flagship cabernet $45, but think it’s available for less than that. Wines made by Emma Bowen, solid without being spectacular.
Bellwether
2017 Cabernet Premium, still has that green note after 6 years, reflection of the vintage, pretty ordinary wine, not convinced that it should have been made, 2008 Cabernet Premium, lovely wine, right in the slot, purchased these previously, will look at one. 2020 Ant series, full on, but lacked structure and finesse.
Billy Brand
Bill Brand has quietly gone about doing his own thing since leaving McWilliams owned Brands Laira with sons in tow. Interesting range of wines and back vintages. 2020 Tannat, not familiar with the variety, but quite a smoky note. 2019 Cabernet, excellent wine, lashes of fruit, nicely integrated, 2016 museum Cabernet, fleshy, rich, very good indeed, 2014 solid, but shaded by the 2016.
Bowen
Goes from strength to strength, yes, an unabashed fan, but pound for pound, and excellent VFM, some of the best wines in the district. 2021 Cabernet have had several bottles of this now, beautiful structure, great balance, medium weight, nothing overdone, plush with silky tannins, a ripper. 2021 Shiraz, good mouthfeel medium to full bodied, great length, another very good wine. 2012 Cabernet, tastes and looks like a 3-year-old, almost in your face wine, fabulously rich, needs a decade and will go a decade more. 2010 Cabernet, one of the wines of the weekend, silky delicious, mellow but has eons left in the tank…more please! 2002 Cabernet, drinking very well, primary fruit still in existence, gracious old Coonawarra red.
Brands Laira
Extensive range of wines, don’t have many of these, but think under Castella ownership things are improving. 2018 Tall vines Shiraz, tannins +++, nice fruit profile, needs to settle a bit. 2018 Stentiford Shiraz, plush rich, plums, savoury notes, 2021 1968 Cabernet, fabulous structure, really rated this wine, excellent representation of the vintage. 2018 171 cabernet, another wine that is polished, tons of fruit, very varietal characters. All in all, these wines need time, very full bodied, but great expressions.
Brand and Sons
Sam Brands operation, 2021 Bakers Run Cabernet, excellent wine, balanced, nice mouth feel, 2021 Last Sunday Drive Cabernet Merlot, very good wine, Cab Franc gives the wine a nice lift, 2021 Silent Partner Cabernet, very very good wine, might seek this one out, 2013 Silent Partner, in a great spot, 2013 vintage across the board is a sleeper, really starting to show some very good wines.
Bundalong
A label that I don’t know much about, apparently have been farmers in the district for years, whacked in some vines and made under contract. Seem like good value for money. 2014 Shiraz, in a good spot. 2019 Shiraz, very well-made wine, nicely balanced. 2019 Cabernet, very smart wine, very well made, around $30, will seek some out.
DiGiorgio
2013 Cabernet, very nice wine, but didn’t completely wow me. 2021 Cabernet, solid and got a few, this will develop well, on the fuller end of the spectrum.
Highbank
Dennis Vice is an interesting character, has sold off a lot of the wines, but has seemed to have kept the property. 2009 Reserve Cabernet, excellent wine, lovely finish. 2016, in a bit of a quiet spot, not as fleshy or fruit forward.
Hollick
2020 Estate Shiraz, ordinary green awful wine. 2019 Old Vine Cabernet, this is very good, nicely balanced. 2018 Ravenswood Cab, not overly convinced here, for the top marque in a superior vintage should show better than this.
Katnook
2021 Shiraz, excellent, lovely wine, medium weight, finishes very nicely. 2021 Cabernet, one of the wines of the vintage, have had a few bottles of this now, excellent wine, varietal characters in abundance, lovely twinge of sweetness, a cracker. Fluked a few at the CD, 2019 Prodigy, amazing fruit profile, fair whack of oak, but a beautiful wine. 2019 Odyssey, great to look at this a year on, this wine is a star and $50ish though cellarone an absolute bargain…magnificent and will outlive me. 2014 Odyssey (magnum), a baby, but lots of potential, just softening at 9 years, very good.
Ladbroke Grove
Never been enamoured by this label, but looked at 2013 and 2019 Killian single vineyard cabernet…all I could come up with is…interesting??
Leconfield
A couple of wines and or vintages that simply miss the mark, 2020 Cabernet, fruit is there desperately trying to push through, along the palate, but never gets there. Bring on the 2021! 2017 Sydney Reserve a fair wine, but not worth anywhere near the $80 asking price, $30 at Cellarmasters if I recall. 2020 Shiraz, suffering the same fate as the Cab, fruit never arrives, finishes really short.
Lindemans
Story goes that current winemaker has been let go, Karadoc to be sold (currently on the market) and a once proud brand is heading into the abyss, it seems no one really cares, an absolute disgrace, may go the way of other TWE vineyards that are currently on the market and not even bothering to prune. I hope someone picks up this diamond. 2021 St George, wow just wow, in the best 2-3 Cabernets I have tried this year. Outstanding fruit, a wine that has enormous depth and breadth of fruit across the palate, stunningly beautiful, and I will make an early call, may scoop this week’s haul at the Limestone Coast Wine Show, just like the 2019 did. 2021 LR Shiraz/Cab, 70/30 split, quite balanced, but unlike the St George needs decades. 2021 Pyrus, very good but outshone by the Cab. Really notice the Malbec in the blend.
Majella
Didn’t get to the 10-year vertical, largely due to being a bit dusty, so had to settle for a couple of donuts and a strong coffee! Always next year. 2019 Shiraz, lovely wine, very skilled winemaking here, Bruce Gregory really knows his stuff, lovely touch of sweetness, picked up a few. 2020 Cabernet, had this a couple of times now and another victim of the vintage, fruit never gets there, pity. 2016 Mallea, outstanding version of a Cab/Shiraz blend, beautiful mouthfeel, great wine. GPL 68, 2015 not sure, if this or the ’14 was the first release, but John Riddoch like in structure, an absolute belter, 25+ years easily. Can see why Majella fruit used to make its way into Wynns premiums.
Otellia
As mentioned previously, Matilda Innes is doing some good things, with support from her father John. Was somewhat fortunate to taste a few of the offerings over a feature dinner, but was struggling by now, with 50 wines already under the belt from a day of tastings. Matilda kindly arranged for a couple of extra glasses to be waiting for me, 2018 Cabernet, lovely wine, fleshy, excellent fruit profile, 2019 Shiraz, again another enjoyable wine. Wine pairings with dinner if I am honest, were ordinary, a Pinot Gris, a 2022 Taschini ‘bunchy” Cabernet…in a word revolting. Why do people make this junk, in an area renowned for doing Cabernet far better than this. Food was outstanding, next visit will be a more conventional long lunch, with wines picked from the list.
Padthaway Estate
It was great to revisit this establishment, 43 years after the last time. Current owners have spent a bomb in restoration, outbuildings, gardens etc. Old homestead next to be restored but, what Robert and Eliza Lawson built in 1870s, plans to get up to speed to 2023 compliance (plumbing, electrics) will take millions. Lovely tasting area, with wine flights. We did a couple and then brought a few bottles, to redeem costs. 2019 Eliza BdB Sparkling, clean, pure, and very dry, a delight. 2019 Chardonnay (about 1 of 3 whites I tried all weekend), rather good, none of the buttery muck, but an almost austere finish with the fruit salad characters playing a supporting role, oak very restrained…actually purchased some. Then a heap of reds, some hit the mark, some didn’t. 2016 Shiraz, very good wine, lovely length, at $33, worth buying. Block 22, 2018 Shiraz, good wine, but not significantly better than the standard offering, at twice the price. 2017 cabernet, lacked fruit, very short, burnt characters, reflection of the vintage, very poor wine. 2017 Shiraz, along similar lines, more forgiving than the Cabernet, but not great. 2018 Shiraz, plump, dark fruits, good use of oak, firm tannins, I liked it. 2018 Cabernet was another good wine, very fruit forward, a touch of sweetness, got a couple. 2018 Reserve Cabernet, another good wine, but not worth twice the money of the standard offering, we did think we were poured the same wine twice. All in all, an enjoyable visit, might even stay one day.
Parker
Arrived after the Masterclass, which was a good thing, as the CD was empty. Staff here are fabulous. 2021 Terra Rossa cab, wonderful wine, sits nicely next to Wynns BL. 2013 First Growth, in a lovely spot, 2019 First Growth, as good as the St George, but very different, ethereal, creeps up on you, drifts and lingers and melts away. Ox Hardy’s first FG, very talented winemaker, following the great work of Phil Lehmann. 6 in the hole. 2013 95 Block, lovely balanced, Petit Verdot gives lovely fresh lift, 2019 equally good, with more Petit Verdot in the blend. 2020, nice wine with a firm tannic finish, but overshadowed by the ‘19. 2021 Kidman Block Shiraz, very smart, wonderful fruit profile, silky tannins. Great group of wines.
Patrick
2018 Home Block Cab, lovely wine, a bit of a surprise actually. 2013 Limited release Home Block, in a good spot.
Raidis
4 Cabernets here, all very different and the older wines felt like they had years to go, felt like I was in the sledgehammer class! 2013 Billy, lovely wine, very pure, at $28 good vfm, picked up 3. 2021 Billy, another excellent representation of this vintage, seamless palate, very good indeed. Then onto the Trip, the top marque at around $100? 2016 needs eons, blew my head off, cabernet on steroids, luscious, rich, juicy, big whack of oak, needs another decade. 2008, you can see where it’s been, or where the 2016 needs to go, really good wine, at 17 years just entering the zone. Still very primary, but so easy to drink. I think there was a special tasting price on the day but might follow up.
Redman
Looked at many of these wines at both the CD and over another excellent dinner at Pipers. 2021 Cabernet, delightful wine, lovely structure, medium weight, black/blue fruits, long finish, really well made. Similarly, 2019 Cabernet, hard to spilt this or the 2021, another excellent wine. 2021 Shiraz, another good example, nice depth, balanced with drying tannins, very good. 2019 Shiraz, so smooth, plush, very good. 2019 The Redman, last release was a 2010, this time a Cab/Shiraz blend (80/20) with no Merlot. Great wine, old fashioned drinking here, this and the Mallea show what can be done, again well made, picked up a few. 2015 Shiraz, OK wine, slightly bitter finish. 2021 Last Row Shiraz, a step up from the standard offering, lovely mouth feel, picked up a few. 2014 Cab/Shiraz/Merlot, light but very approachable, easy drinking, very pleasant, needed a pizza! Overall, a label that’s really hitting form.
Reschke
Seems there are more and more labels in this portfolio than ever. 2021 Vitulus Shiraz, very good, will wait to see if this is offered through the ‘usual channels’. 2020 Vitulus Cabernet, ordinary wine, don’t bother. 2015 Bos Cabernet, in a good spot, lots and lots of oak, should develop well. 2014 Empyrean Cabernet, good wine, without being spectacular. 2010 Empyrean, drinking well, would be worth a few at the right price, 2016 Empyrean, again, solid wine, but lacked the wow factor.
Whistle Post
Old Lindemans/Mildara CD, wines on the fuller end of the spectrum…take no prisoners style, lots of fruit, oak, and tannin, made to last. 2013 Reserve Cabernet solid, 2018 Reserve looking very good, completely black in colour, full bodied with a long finish. Will watch with interest what comes out in the next 2-3 years.
Wynns
Organised another tasting through the CD manager, TWE now charging various prices for various flights, one punter walked out with 4 dozen ($2200, gasp, but SWMBO said have a look in the mirror!). Another favour of not having to worry about the masterclass getting in the way and benefited from a few extra wines finding their way over from a tutored tasting that one of the winemakers did. I call it sharing the love! 2021 wines are all class, no misses at all. 2021 BL Cabernet deep and brooding, chewy, plush and tannins that lasted an age, such a great wine. BL Shiraz, rich and silky, good use of oak, fruit dominating, think this will develop well. The two V&A’s are both smart wines, the Shiraz rich and plush, lovely mouth feel, Cabernet Shiraz very balanced, under screw cap should go on for some time yet. Single vineyard Glengyle, this is a superstar everything that screams Coonawarra Cabernet is here, dark cherry, blueberry, not dissimilar to the St George, the depth of fruit is amazing. Top gold at last week’s Adelaide show, surely more to come. Best single vineyard I have tried, and apparently a second release single vineyard from 2021, with the premiums next year. A few treats to follow, 2015 Messenger Cabernet, excellent wine, just starting to show itself, lovely full-bodied expression, 2013 Alex, similarly so, really good, 2013 is a surprise vintage. Then a flight of John Riddoch’s, 2018 definitive Coonawarra, so much going on, black olive, herbs, blackberry, dark cherry, oak is there but not obtrusive and the palate a powerhouse, lingering robust tannins for 60 seconds…a 50-year red! 2019 all of the above, but a slightly smoother style, excellent mouth feel. Both cracking wines, you could actually drink now!!
Then I am not sure, well I am. 2020 John Riddoch, picked from just 2 vineyards, instead of the usual 7, and unfortunately it shows. Lovely bright nose, floral notes, but then a massive disconnect with palate which all ends rather badly. Texture is so thin, falls away faster than Usain Bolt and you are left with what I could only describe as a stringy lace tablecloth, absolutely no depth or breadth of fruit in the mouth, leading to a fractionally astringent and green finish. RIP. Why was this made??!! Rumour has it that the winemakers didn’t really want to release this wine, but TWE had other ideas. It will sell, only to those who don’t know the wine/style, but seriously thinking for the first time in 40 years…it’s a pass. 2018/19/21 will slaughter this, and in years to come will be a black sheep. Winemaker present and CD staff admitted as much and easy to see disappointment with this release. I get a sense that change is afoot at Wynns, just can’t put my finger on it.
Yalumba
An absolute treat, with just the two of us and the winemaker Heather Fraser doing a mini masterclass. The Menzies wine room has been closed for nigh on 20 years, and perhaps punters over the weekend still thought so, but we couldn’t believe our luck. Really appreciate the no nonsense approach, calling out the vintage for what it is, no sugar coating. I have been getting into Yalumba of late, some great wines from this label. 2019 Sanctum, a new early drinking style introduced to sit under Cigar and Menzies, nice wine, but a little light on the palate. 2021 better wine, lush and lovely drinking, good for 5-7 years. 2019 Cigar, cracking wine at the price point, glad I got some when discounted, very balanced and such easy drinking. 2010 Menzies, line ball for me with the 2010 Bowen, beautiful wine, fleshy, rich, and smashable. 2018 Menzies very good wine, glad to have a few, similarly 2019 great fruit expression, to be released shortly, so hope there are some good prices about.
Then a ‘cause we can’ moment. Following wines sourced from the late Helen Hill-Smith’s personal cellar, courtesy of R H-S. Opened and decanted, a mini master class. 1994 Menzies, lovely old wine, fruit still there, but drink up. 1997 Menzies, potentially past, with a slightly bitter note, but a nice drink. The two wines that followed, I could not split, a great barometer for the region and will start digging these vintages out. 1996 Menzies, a wonderful old wine, absolutely stunning, fruit flavour rolled gracefully over the tongue, and you just sat back. If you have any open one up. 1998 Menzies, the best of the line up, simply a wonderful wine, I would say peaking, delicious, so wanted another glass, and then another!
Zema Estate
Solid group of wines, perhaps I need to appreciate this label a bit more. Very good value for money. 2018 Estate Shiraz, very good wine. 2018 Estate Cabernet, solid without being spectacular. 2016 Family Selection Cabernet, a big step up, deep and brooding, picked up a few. 2016 F/S shiraz, nice but not in the same class.
Well, that’s the epistle over for another year, tried to do my best to capture what was another year of wonderful tastings and events. Long live Coonawarra.

Cheers Craig

[Andrew Jordan]

Brand and Sons
Sam Brands operation, 2021 Bakers Run Cabernet, excellent wine, balanced, nice mouth feel, 2021 Last Sunday Drive Cabernet Merlot, very good wine, Cab Franc gives the wine a nice lift, 2021 Silent Partner Cabernet, very very good wine, might seek this one out, 2013 Silent Partner, in a great spot, 2013 vintage across the board is a sleeper, really starting to show some very good wines.

Craig fully agree with you on this one and have actually picked up a 6 pack for the cellar. Also agree on the Cigar.

Also thanks for all the musings ... great read!

[Mike Hawkins]

Thanks Craig…. 96 Menzies coming up….

[VinoEd]

Great notes Craig, many thanks

[mjs]

Craig,
Some copious notes from the weekend. Some points of difference for me. Masterclass was excellent by the way, great presentation by Andrew Caillard, supported by Sue Holder and Andrew (Ox) Hardy, who may have flown in to Coonawarra that morning. Standout wines, the Pichon Baron, the Vasse Felix Tom Cullity and the JR.

The three decades at Bowen was interesting, I thought the 02 was oxidised, but tasted better than the bouquet. The 10 year vertical at Majella was good, but it probably reinforced that Bruce Gregory has a formula, he is able to maintain consistency, but the vintage expression/variation was not there. Old Menzies at Yalumba are a treat. As you say, the 96 and 98 were to die for. Dinner at Pipers was a great, great food and wine. Decadence tasting on the Friday followed by dinner at Otellia also treat, some great 10 yo wines and great food as well.

A great weekend as usual

cheers, Malcolm

[mychurch]

Do Penley take part in the roadshow ?

[JamieAdelaide]

I looked at getting some cheap old Bowen at auction however they were caned by critics upon release. They are often wrong I know. I’ve bought bottles of late as quaffers and find the style now short term, as if made for an impatient generation.

[phillisc]

Craig,
Some copious notes from the weekend. Some points of difference for me. Masterclass was excellent by the way, great presentation by Andrew Caillard, supported by Sue Holder and Andrew (Ox) Hardy, who may have flown in to Coonawarra that morning. Standout wines, the Pichon Baron, the Vasse Felix Tom Cullity and the JR.

The three decades at Bowen was interesting, I thought the 02 was oxidised, but tasted better than the bouquet. The 10 year vertical at Majella was good, but it probably reinforced that Bruce Gregory has a formula, he is able to maintain consistency, but the vintage expression/variation was not there. Old Menzies at Yalumba are a treat. As you say, the 96 and 98 were to die for. Dinner at Pipers was a great, great food and wine. Decadence tasting on the Friday followed by dinner at Otellia also treat, some great 10 yo wines and great food as well.

A great weekend as usual

cheers, Malcolm

Thanks Malcolm, yes the Masterclass looked very good, for a variety of reasons, I chose not to attend. You are correct with Ox, landed at 9:30, staff picked him up, pilot drove around for 3 hours, (hope he didn't visit CDs) and then flew out, with the plane flying over Wynns just as we arrived.

I thought the 02 Bowen was sound, may have been a different bottle to yours of course.
Yes sorry I didn't get to Majella vertical, heart wasn't in it, feeling very ginger Saturday morning, but thankfully came good. Bruce is a very talented winemaker, but even he doesn't have a magic wand for the 2020, as hard as that wine tries to convince you, there are simply too many wines from either side that smash it.
Good but not great is how the 2020 vintage will be remembered, particularly if 2022 comes up trumps.

Yes the events and meals are first class, was talking to Coonawarra Vignerons staff, and no other district in the country does what they do, especially decadence.
Planning to go to the LCWS next year, so may be looking at back to back weekends...can't have too much of a good thing eh
Cheers Craig

[phillisc]

Do Penley take part in the roadshow ?

MC short answer is no...there's a fair bit of politics with Penley, since the sisters have taken over from Kym. They have a CD in Coonawarra, which they choose not to open, pre-covid it shut. They don't get involved in any of the tastings either. I have picked up quite a bit of 2016-21 through third party sites...some for a song.

Cheers Craig

[phillisc]

I looked at getting some cheap old Bowen at auction however they were caned by critics upon release. They are often wrong I know. I’ve bought bottles of late as quaffers and find the style now short term, as if made for an impatient generation.

My short answer to critics is, that if you took as gospel, you wouldn't get out of bed.
MJS, myself and others will attest, is there has been a fair bit of rubbish written about Bowen. I have consumed wines from the 80s/90s/2000s over the last 2-3 years, all superb. A prominent critic suggested that recent Bowen's taste like Orange Juice, what a dill. Perhaps has been consuming too much Burgundy

cheers Craig

[GraemeG]

Nice write up, thanks.
I've always wanted to like Bowen, but they've never hit the spot with me for some reason.
Had some 20-year old Highbank that was very good, but the random bottles of 2013-2016 I've drunk lately were not impressive. Family schism, or something?
So most of my cellared Coonawarra is Wynns, predictable but no worse for that.

[phillisc]

Nice write up, thanks.
I've always wanted to like Bowen, but they've never hit the spot with me for some reason.
Had some 20-year old Highbank that was very good, but the random bottles of 2013-2016 I've drunk lately were not impressive. Family schism, or something?
So most of my cellared Coonawarra is Wynns, predictable but no worse for that.

Most of my cellared Coonawarra wine Graeme is also Wynns...so no problem there
Highbank is interesting, a lot of the recent vintages were flogged off through third party sites and many were plagued with taint, oxidation or simply cooked/poorly stored. The two wines over the weekend were pretty good.
I have a bit of a Bowen palate, but are patient, I like 10-15 years on them, yes in a lesser vintage you run the risk that the fruits gone, wine is over the hill, and yes have had 2 or 3 of these, but generally its been the other way, very sound wines with plenty of flavour.

i will be watching Friday's LCWS results with interest, perhaps I am in tune with the professionals, or likely perhaps not.

Cheers Craig