TN: notes from February

[GraemeG]

• 2017 First Creek Wines Sémillon Winemaker's Reserve - Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley (26/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 10.5%} pretty much as for Oct-20, but it does feel a bit dumb or shut down. Classy and grassy, acidity was a bit dull, subdued finish. But I would avoid this for a while now and give it five more years.
• 2018 Lindeman's Pyrus - Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra (26/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 13.9%} Deep garnet. Thoroughly anonymous wine in every respect. Ripe red fruit, soft dusty tannin without true oak identity, medium acid supporting the ripe fruit , medium weight palate, disappearing finish. Comes and goes without ever really engaging any interest whatsoever. Much of what remains on the finish is of ultra sweet fruit. I’m not convinced it’s got the stuffing to age with any benefit.
• 2017 Blind Corner Field Blend - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River (24/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 12.5%} Deep garnet red still. Little age on the nose. Vanilla and mint and big plummy aromas. Palate has fresh red and blue fruit, medium acid, low powdery tannins. Medium weight. More astringent on the finish than you expect. Medium length finish. OK. Needs a lot more time I think. Feels like a lot of shiraz in this blend.
• 2010 Balgownie Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Bendigo (23/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 14.5%} Nice mature cabernet. A bit leafy, never green, with medium acid and softly resolving dusty tannins. Gentle oak. Always with a genuinely curranty spine of cabernet. Medium weight, medium length finish. Back labels promises 5-10 years' aging; I think that's about right.
• NV Small Island Wines Ripasso - Australia, Tasmania (22/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 14%} A dark Pinot sort of colour, but with vanilla, marshmallow, plum on the nose. The palate is generously ripe, mostly plummy-flavoured on the palate, with low oak, a red fruit-driven presence. It’s a bit patchy though, with the fruit and structure fading away to leave a warmly alcoholic finish. Nice enough, but not entirely convincing. A mix of merlot, Pinot noir, Shiraz and dornfelder. Who planted that in this country, and why? Anyway, I don’t think this has much to recommend it for cellaring, but it’s a pleasant if undemanding drop now.
• 2021 Forest Hill Vineyard Riesling Highbury Fields - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Great Southern (20/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 12.5%} Faint grey/straw colour. Lean nose of stones, minerals, whiff of grass. Nod towards a shy lychee. Light body, medium acid, quite natural-feeling. Juicy, zesty finish, towards the front palate; grass and stones but more about texture than flavour. Only barely medium length finish. Might blossom with time, might not. Hard to call.
• 2010 Tyrrell's Sémillon Vat 1 - Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley (19/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 11.5%} Some maturity on the nose, with smoke and a hint of honeyed development - but not too much. Colour remains relentlessly youthful though. Even in presence through the medium weight palate, the grassy, citrus-tinged fruit is slowly evolving into a toasty mouthful, with plenty of acidity. No rush to drink, but I feel somehow that most of the development has occurred by now.
• 2016 McHenry Hohnen Zinfandel Hazel's Vineyard - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River (19/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 14.9%} A little bricking at the rim. Loose-knit sort of wine, ripe and lavish, with jubey black fruit, liquorice. Gentle dusty tannins, lowish acidity, not too sweet. Medium/full weight. Had that spicy Zin thing going on. But I don't think more cellaring is needed here.
• 2017 Marius Wines Shiraz Symphony McLaren Vale - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale (19/02/2023)
  As for June. Plenty of chocolately McLaren Vale goodness, with deep red fruit and gentle polished dusty tannins. Not quite in the wow category though.
• 2018 Seppeltsfield Riesling Eden Valley Riesling - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley (19/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 12.5%} Similar to before, although having drunk this right after a couple of other Eden rieslings it seemed voluptuous and fleshy in comparison. Does the front label say Barossa? Almost enough fruit sweetness to give an impression of sugar. Rich and lovely.
• 2022 Hewitson Riesling Gun Metal - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley (19/02/2023)
  {screwcap} Great slately Eden riesling. Some lime, talc, brine. Medium weight, medium/high acid, but fresh and natural feeling. Bone-dry finish, medium length. Keep an age if you like.
• 2018 Andrew Thomas Wines Shiraz Elenay Barrel Selection - Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley (18/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 14.2%} Plenty of toasty oak supporting ripe red fruit. Only a little developed, but with medium dusty tannins and lowish acidity. It’s rich but not especially complex. Will keep. Some development still likely I think but it’s not a wine that shouts ‘Hunter’ if that’s what you’re looking for.
• 2018 Chateau Tanunda Shiraz Terroirs of the Barossa Eden Valley - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley (14/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 15%} Well, another bottle did come my way courtesy of a mixed case. Much the same as the last, with its ink-and chocolate bearing. I was struck by its resemblance to a firework; the nose is all promise of black fruits as it shoots into the sky; there follows a quick explosion of flavours, all on the front of the tongue, then a grey trailing finish of not-very-much, just dull smoky remains.
• 2008 Fleur du Cap Laszlo - South Africa, Coastal Region (12/02/2023)
  {cork, 14%} Ageing nose. Chocolate, malt, soy. Not quite the Bdx they were aiming for, I guess. But it has an appeal; rich, ripe, sweet - although the palate manages to stay dry, even though it’s new world origins are on full display. Black fruit, chocolate - very stewed. No texture from the oak, only high toast flavours. Low/medium powdery tannin, and lowish acidity too, but the flavours carry the day for now. Medium-full weight, but only medium length finish. Right at, or even beyond, peak I think.
• NV Chambers Rosewood Muscat Old Vine - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen (12/02/2023)
  Adding to January’s comments, this has great caramel and fig richness to the nose. You’d have to call it fully sweet, but the vivid acidity keeps its from cloying, saggy richness, and adds to the long finish. Full bodied I guess, but has the dancing sort of lightness that comes with impeccable balance. With the richest dessert you have - this will be fine. Good value too.
• 2004 Freeman Vineyards Secco Corvina Rondinella - Australia, New South Wales, Southern New South Wales, Hilltops (10/02/2023)
  {Screwcap, 15%} Still a deep garnet but also ahowing some age. Developing nose of malt, soy, liquorice, cherry. Softened palate, medium acid, low/medium powdery tannins, not oaky. Medium/full weight, lifted with alcoholic heat. Medium length finish. Lots of flavour. Label says 'aged release', wonder what that means? In fine condition at any rate. No rush.
• NV Barbadillo Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Fino Sherry - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry (9/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 15%} classic nose of cashews and pecorino cheese. Dry, savoury, tastes warmer than the alcohol inidicates. Still not convinced of value as an aperitif - the style overall, not so much this example.
• 2002 Peter Lehmann Cabernet Sauvignon - Australia, South Australia, Barossa (8/02/2023)
  {cork, 14.5%} No ullage, cork barely 20% wet, but very spongy. Holding on! Brick, hinting at tawny hue. Aged nose, composty and leathery old red, not varietal, but lovely all the same. Aromas hinting at volatility on the way. The palate is very good if you like older wine; not especially complex but with all the old wine flavours you'd expect. Bits of forest floor, milk chocolate, rotting strawberries. Someone mentioned cola - yes, that's still here! Somewhat trembling acidity, with low gritty, drying tannins. Medium weight, but the alcohol is giving it a real lift. Medium length finish, offering less interest as time goes by. For a cheapie nearly twenty years ago, you could hardly complain. Half a dozen years past its best, but still a tribute to the soundness of the original fruit and winemaking.
• 2020 West Cape Howe Sauvignon Blanc Mount Barker - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Mount Barker (7/02/2023)
  {screwcap} Under the Kemenys Hidden Label branding. Grassy, with pungent gooseberry too. Medium acid. Beginning to get a bit stewed, tinned-bean qality, esp. the second day! Drink up.
• 2019 Hobbs Shiraz Tin Lids. Aria Secca - Australia, South Australia, Barossa (6/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 15.4%} Radioactive deep red. Lifted blackberry/blueberry aromas. Not too oaky. Palate is about a mass of super-ripe flavours, blue and black per the nose, full-bodied thanks to the alcohol, with medium but overwhelmed acidity and low gritty tannins of anonymous cast. Medium/full in weight, but with patchy presence on the palate, culminating in a medium length, rather fumey finish. Decent example of the full-throttle style, best within 2-3 years I reckon.
• 2019 Serafino Chardonnay Sharktooth Wild Ferment - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale (5/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 13.7%} Quite deep yellow for age. Mild aromas, not too oaky, of melon and peach. Soft, rich palate, gently oaked, but low in acidity, of chardonnay-and-tropical fruit. Still dry, but a bit simple and obvious. Malo-infused without being too buttery. No particular distinction from the 'wild ferment' the label promotes so assiduously. Medium/full weight, short/medium finish. Good to go.
• 2017 Domaine A Cabernet Sauvignon Stoney Vineyard - Australia, Tasmania, Coal River (4/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 13.7%} Herbal, dark curranty nose. Quite youthful still. Does tend a bit towards asparagus on the palate but there's plenty of real cabernet flavour here too. Low dusty tannins, minimal oak, medium/high acidity. Medium weight overall. Little bit of a mid-palate hole too. It's a decent second wine, if you don't pay more than about $35! It'll keep, but I always think the greener aspects become more pronounced with age.
• 2006 Virgin Hills - Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges (3/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 13.5%} Fabulous wine. Gorgeously aged cabernet-accent fruits. Against Bdx, it's more fruity, with less suggestion of oak and structure. A touch malty, but pretty good overall. Low/medium dusty tannin, medium/high acidity. Black fruit as you'd expect, no hint of green, but also not raisined or jammy. This will get ever more volatile with age; it's lovely now and should hold for a few years but really I'd suggest getting into it now.
• 2008 Dalwhinnie Shiraz Moonambel Pyrenees - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Pyrenees (3/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 13.5%} Rich and ripe, but clearly aging. Blueberry fruit, mostly. Not too much mint or eucalypt - always the risk with Pyrenees. Medium/full weight, resolving medium dusty tannins, even balance along tongue. Correct acidity. Medium length finish. Very new world - does have a touch of sweetness to the finish. Still, will age for another half-dozen years without concern.
• 2019 Craigow White Blend - Australia, Tasmania, Southern Tasmania (2/02/2023)
  {screwcap, 13.4%} Similar to the CD tasting last year. Gewurz-dominated flavours and aromas, with a consequent oiliness of texture and finish, but not excessively so. Quite weighty - medium/full-bodied - close to dry, vague grape-skin tannin. Spicy fruit, quite rich, almost voluptuous. I'd call it a medium-length finish, fullish, interesting. Good wine. Drink within 5 years.

[phillisc]

Thanks Graeme, Virgin Hills what a blast from the past. I purchased 2 mixed sixers from an etailer. Think there are single bottles up to 2012 vintage...at about $180 a sixer.
Think I should open enmasse.
People complain what successive owners have done bastardising Pennies and other brands, but what have vincorp, Hope Estate and any others involved with VH done, other than completely trashing the brand.
Thanks for the note
Cheers Craig

[Ian S]

A shame about the Lindemans, for one of the trio that used to be great value / interesting, got the Southcorp [s]make[/s]fuck-over, but I recall hearing someone say there was something of a recent recovery?

Yes Dornfelder in Australia sounds about as sensible as planting a mango tree in the UK Perhaps however the plantings were done when Tasmania was considered a much more marginal climate, and sometimes old vines can surprise us in the flavours they can deliver? On the whole I tend to avoid ripasso, as it's not something I always take to in Valpolicella, and less so in wines I've tried elsewhere. Too often I find them clumsy/ a bit rough and overly alcoholic. It's a method that seems to need a lighter touch, but rarely is that the case. Perhaps it's acting to put makeup onto the odds and ends leftover from selection for other wines?

Fleur du Cap! I've not tasted one for over 2 decades, but still remember it from a (now demolished) 'Cape Dutch' style hotel/restaurant in Norwich. The wine list had ~ 150-200 different South African wines as well as a piesporter and liebfraumilch "for people who don't like wine" Through a quirk of the bed rate being bed, breakfast AND evening meal, that gave us the full £20-25 meal allowance to spend exploring that cellar, and over a number of stays we did just that. It was a fine education.

[mjs]

Interested on Graeme’s comment on the Pyrus and Ian’s follow up, thought I’d open one myself, haven’t had it before, other than maybe at Langtons or Coonawarra Roadshow tastings. My notes are:

Saturated red magenta
Plum, slight aniseed, cloves maybe, dark fruit bouquet
Soft red fruit and tannins on entry, but a bit more texture on the end palate for me, still medium bodied, approachable

Pyrus has never been a tannic wine for me, even though it is primarily Cabernet, more to do with soft fruit. Will this be a keeper, not sure. It was a solid vintage year, I have had a couple of 2010’s recently, they are drinking well, still a soft wine though. I remember buying quite a few bottles of the 1985 at the time, which won the Jimmy Watson. Very enjoyable wine over the years

Maybe there’s an expectation mismatch. Still a good wine for me.