Grand Cru (Perth) tasting group - Italian Reds

[Waiters Friend]

According to the mighty Wiki, there's a lot of Italian grape varieties. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Italia ... _varieties. 98 of the listed varieties are red, and this doesn't account for blends.

So, 11 of us got together to taste Italian red wines. Vintage, varietal composition and region were unrestricted, and this made for some interesting guesswork (as the wines are served blind). As usual, the wines were served in order from youngest to oldest. Also as usual, the notes below are a composite of the group’s comments, and are not just my opinions.

All except one wine was under cork. Two wines suffered as a result. There was also a number of wines with modest amounts of V.A.

Colli Tortones Rosso Barbera 2018: Purple red in colour. Dark and red fruits, pot pourri, violets, dried herbs, leather, meaty and a little vegetal. Some V.A. lift. The palate is textured, a little like melted chocolate. Medium acid and tannins in the background. According to the company blurb, this wine was fermented in a concrete tank, followed by 18 months oak – a little difficult for a northern hemisphere 2018 vintage wine!

Cascina Roccalini Langhe Nebbiolo 2017 (Piemonte): Garnet red in colour. Light cherries underneath some earthiness and dust. There’s rose, tar, terracotta, herbs, and tomato leaf on the nose, while the palate shows high acidity, sour cherry, more terracotta and earthiness, and big drying tannins. Savoury notes led to a medium finish. This was highly regarded by the group, while recognising we were drinking it way too young.

Massolino Dolcetto D’Alba 2017 (Piemonte): Purple red in colour. Bright cherries, rose, cassis, bramble, red and dark fruits. Slight V.A. lift. High acid and moderate tannins on the palate with summer red fruits – pomegranate, raspberries and mulberries. A little closed and needs time.

Vietti Barbera D’Asti 2016 (Piemonte): Dark crimson. Big, perfumed nose with red and dark fruits, almonds, marzipan, cassis and some meatiness. More V.A. as well. The palate was a bit thin, with sharp acid and fine drying tannins (like black tea). Despite the lack of fruit, the acid and tannins gave the wine a long finish.

Poggio Al Sole Trafiore 2016(Tuscany): This is 100% Canaiolo (which I believe is more likely to be blended with Sangiovese) and is crimson / red in colour. The nose is meaty (one taster commented on burning pig), duty, with herbs, chicory, cranberry and sour cherry. There’s brighter fresh cherry on the palate, along with desiccated raspberry, all supported by fine tannins, and clean acid. Good length and well regarded by the group (despite the “burning pig” reference!).

Tenuta de Sesta Rosso Di Montalcino 2016: Purple in colour. Red cherries, mushrooms, black pepper, dried fennel – and wet cardboard – cork taint has struck.

Zonin Valpolicella Ripasso 2015: Red, with hints of brick. Dark fruits, bitter chocolate, wheat or hay on the nose, along with some V.A. The palate shows a little Amaro, light or muted red fruits, cocoa dust, and fine but persistent tannins. The group commented that this would make a good food wine.

Podere Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2015: Dark purple in colour. Red fruits, reductive nose, leather saddle and brandy spirit. Tannins are fine grained, acid is high, there’s some dark and red fruits, but the palate is ultimately hollowed out and stripped of flavour, so we pointed the finger at the cork again.

Luciano Arduini Valpolicella Amarone 2015: Dark purple. Dark chocolate, blueberries and blackberries, vanilla, dates, and figs on the voluptuous nose. More dark chocolate on the palate, along with rich dark fruits, high tannins, and it is unctuous with raisins and molasses. Highly regarded by the group.

Ercolani Il Vino Nobile De Montepulciano Riserva 2013: Deep purple / black. Red and dark cherries, dark chocolate, herbs, tomato leaf and some meatiness on the nose. The plate is mostly savoury except for some more dark chocolate, with grippy tannins, reasonably high acid and quite a long finish. The group considered this would be a good food wine, and we were drinking it a few years too early.

Le Ragnaie Rosso Di Montalcino 2013: Also deep purple / black in colour. Slightly medicinal on the nose, some alcohol heat, dried herbs, violets, mushroom risotto, pomegranate and tar. Some V.A. also. The palate is bright fruited with lively sour cherries (one taster commented “fizzy”), high acid and fine but noticeable tannins. Good length and highly regarded by the group.

Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2011: Lots of florals, violets, red rose petals, tomato leaf, alongside raspberries and (the almost inevitable) V.A. There’s also Cherry Ripe and cassis, while the palate shows light red fruits, more violets, wet coffee grounds (leading to a touch of bitterness on the finish). There’s black tea (tannins) as well.

A note on the V.A. (volatile acidity). Of the 10 wines which weren’t corked, 6 showed at least a noticeable level of V.A. and it’s not restricted to any one region of Italy. It was noted that sometimes a little V.A. can enhance the wine, but what level is too much? That’s up to individual preference.

Wine of the night was the Luciano Arduini Valpolicella Amarone 2015. Thanks to all who attended for their frank (and sometimes very entertaining) comments.

Cheers
Allan