2005 Coates Fortified Shiraz 500ml, McLaren Vale (DIAM cork): 20% alc. Very dark red/purple. Lifted blackberry, black liquorice and earth on the nose with a hint of mushroom and aged soy, lantana and menthol, heading into umami territory and seemingly crossing boundaries between classic Reynella, Hardy & Seaview Vintage Ports. The palate’s as always elegant with neutral spirit balancing out the thunderous black fruits and liquorice characters, a touch of malty/nutty oak in the background and the finish. A little closed at first, but opened up beautifully with breathing; this will last a lifetime cellared correctly.