Grape Mates - Aussie Icons Dinner

[dave vino]

Where to begin...what originally started out as a get together to drink some 100y.o Para Liquers morphed into a dinner featuring some fantastic wines.

First up thanks to Greg for his tireless work in organising it, great effort, and to Shannon for getting us over the line after a last minute hiccup with the original restaurant.

To the restaurant (who prefer not to be named) for coming to the rescue at the 11th hour and putting on a fabulous line up of food and impeccable sommellier service on such short notice. The food was, as always, top notch and a credit to the restaurant scene in Sydney. They have my utmost respect. I'm sure Cam will be posting shortly with food pics.

And finally to all the very, very generous contributions of wines by everyone. It will be hard to wipe the smile off my face all weekend.

To the wines...just brief impressions

The 1944 Seppelt Sparkling Burgundy by Colin Preece is one of Australia's most iconic wines IMHO. To be able to drink something made by the legendary Colin Preece 69 years ago, was pretty special. The wine was unbelievable, still with a hint of effervescence, beautiful notes of leather, coffee beans, plum and cola. I sat on mine for about 2 hours and it hardly diminished. I was happy to just savour the wonderful aromas coming out of the glass.

1967 Lakes Folly, the first vintage of this made by the venerable Max Lake. Once again a privilege to drink. Great colour, wonderful old school aged cabernet nose (saddle leather, coffee). At 45 years of age it was still drinking surprisingly well. Really enjoyed sitting on this and nosing the glass.

The 1888 Seppelt Para Liquer was just a monster, 125years old, it was a moreish delight, if I curl my lip up I can still smell the aromas of it 12 hours later (I'll have a shower eventually...) It was like drinking liquid treacle which coated every part of your mouth and just lasted and lasted. There were so many flavours and different levels you sat there with it in your mouth for literally minutes. If you haven't had one of these before, stick it on your bucket list.

The Ed Carr was a massive wine on the nose, lots of power and kept evolving in the glass.
95 Yattarna was aging very gracefully, still lots of butter and oak but all in balance for my palate.
05 Gia and LEAS were both fantastic in their own way. With the Gia maybe a bit more resolved and balanced.
02 Graveyard was very elegant and savoury and made for very good drinking.
96 Rockford BP was everything you like about BP but with wonderful tertiary characteristics coming through (bright plum/blackberry melding with leather and dark plums) Wonderful.
Grange was very approachable, you could smell the power in the glass. Great length.
The 1996 Cabs were both drinking superbly.
The 1975 Wendouree, in the glass it didn't look older than 10 years. Amazing colour.


Aperitif
1944 Seppelt Sparkling Burgundy (Colin Preece)

Aperitif 2
2000 Arras EJ Carr Late Disgorged

Flight 1
Watercress, potato, ricotta and house cured ham
1995 Vat 1 Semillon
1995 Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay

Flight 2
Scallop, oyster cracker, sea lettuce, tomato
2005 Leeuwins Estate Art Series Chardonnay
2005 Giaconda Chardonnay

Flight 3
Pork loin, cauliflower, French peas, lardo
2002 Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz
1994 Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz

Flight 4
Duck Breast, parsley root, garlic and lemon
1996 Rockford Basket Press
1995 Mt Mary Quintets

Flight 5
1993 Penfolds Grange
1986 Wynns John Riddoch
2002 Katnook Odyssey CabSav

Flight 6
Smoked lamb, hash of shoulder, caramelised cabbage puree
1975 Wendouree Cabernet Malbec
1967 Lakes Folly Cabernets

Flight 7
Cheese Plate
1996 Moss Wood CabSav
1996 Cullens Diana Madeline

Flight 8
Rhubarb, rice pudding tuille, ginger beer
1888 Seppelt Para Liqueur Port
1908 Seppelt Para Liqueur Port

Options
1997 Yeringberg
1995 Kay Brothers Block 6 Shiraz
Morris Rare Tokay

[camw]

A few photos of the dishes -

Watercress, potato, ricotta and house cured ham


Scallop, oyster cracker, sea lettuce, tomato


Pork loin, cauliflower, French peas, lardo


Duck Breast, parsley root, garlic and lemon


Smoked lamb, hash of shoulder, caramelised cabbage puree


Rhubarb, rice pudding tuille, ginger beer

[markg]

Awesome looking dinner chaps..

The Paras sound fantastic Dave. How did the 1908 stand up against the 1888 ?

[Craig(NZ)]

Great dinner

For a change, I can see I've actually tried a good chunk of this line up and still have a few if them in the cellar

We bought 4 bottles of 1995 Kay brothers block 6 in mckaren vale nearly 15 years ago???? Or is it???. I still have one left.
Look forward to reading impressions!

[ticklenow1]

All I can say is...."WOW". Just so jealous. An amazing lineup of wines.

Cheers
Ian

[crusty2]

Great lineup. Just a query a couple of flights

1995 Vat 1 Semillon
1995 Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay

Flight 2
2005 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay
2005 Giaconda Chardonnay

Flight 3
2002 Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz
1994 Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz

Flight 4
1996 Rockford Basket Press
1995 Mt Mary Quintets

I would imagine the Yattarna/Giaconda would pair better, both fatter style of Chardy's and the Tyrrells (Semm)/LEAS (Chard) leaner.
Also the BP would absolutely swamp the Mt Mary and the pairing of Brokenwood/Mt Mary, both lighter to midweight as versus Mt Edelstone/BP, both bigger oakier wines.

That said, I am envious

cheers
Phill

[Sean]

deleted

[Gavin Trott]

The 1888 Seppelt Para Liquer was just a monster, 125years old, it was a moreish delight, if I curl my lip up I can still smell the aromas of it 12 hours later (I'll have a shower eventually...) It was like drinking liquid treacle which coated every part of your mouth and just lasted and lasted. There were so many flavours and different levels you sat there with it in your mouth for literally minutes. If you haven't had one of these before, stick it on your bucket list.

These, are, quite simply, the most mind blowing and amazing wine experiences I have ever had. I've enjoyed more than 1 100 year old Seppelt Para, and they are impossible to describe. Incredibly intense, incredibly, amazingly complex, and with a real sense you can taste and sense history. World class wine experiences EVERYONE should try, and incredibly cheap, for what they are!

I should add I have also tried the Chambers 100 year old Muscat, from the ancient barrel ... what can I say, THE most remarkable liquid I have tasted!!

Looks and sounds like a great dinner ... jealous!

.

[TiggerK]

It was an awesome dinner, so pleased I got to try these wines in great company and surroundings.

The flights were a bit different to the ones above, we changed a few things around last minute...

Flight 4 was the Basket Press and the Grange
Flight 5 was the Mt Mary and the Riddoch

The Yattarna was put into the Vat 1 flight due to it's age, wasn't going to be ideal having two chards 10 years apart to compare.

I know the provenance of the 1944 was impeccable, not sure about the label origins though. What a wine! Great colour, cork broke but not too bad. Still had a touch of fizz, and an off-the-charts classic Aussie nose to die for, we kept putting the glass down on the table for 5 minutes so as to have the pleasure of smelling the aroma buildup, a wow wine, nice work Colin Preece.

The Arras was stated as the best Aussie sparkling many of us had ever tried, would effortlessly hold its' head high in Reims. The Yattarna was big, sweetly oaked, yet attractive. The LEAS 05 was balanced and wonderful, but hardly lean, plenty of everything, although I found a touch of unwanted heat (yeah I know, hardly complaining). The Giaconda was young, trademark spicy oak and really enjoyable. The Vat 1 97 wasn't a stunning bottle, little bit flat, but trying hard to show well.

The Graveyard was also fairly young, but in it's drinking window and showed nicely. The Edelstone was a tiny bit corked, but the fruit that was poking through was excellent, such a pity, #fucork.

The Rockford 96 and the Grange 93 were two superb wines, the Rockford a complete refined package, the Grange a bit more obvious and decadent, strutting around the glass with confidence, and a real drink now-3 years prospect.

The Mount Mary 95 was the Cabernets - Lilydale. Still fairly youthful I thought, quite grippy, yet a really nice moreish wine with plenty of time left to go.

The Riddoch wasn't quite right unfortunately, hard to pin down how, but in the words of Cam, a 'capsicum disaster'. Pity as all other 5 bottles from that 6 pack have been wonderful.

The Wendouree 75 was so young and primary, deep red colour, almost no signs of age! Drinking nicely as well, some felt there was a background hint of cork taint, maybe, yet no major signs of secondary characters, wonder if they will emerge or if it will stay this way?

The Lake's Folly 1967 was a real pleasure to drink. Savoury, bit of animale, cigarbox, all that good stuff. It faded in the glass with time, but was a shining star and a real highlight wine for a good 20 minutes. Thanks Daniel for bringing this piece of Aussie history.

The Moss Wood and the Cullen had such a feeling of confidence and class about them. Effortless power you might say. Drink now, or hold for decades.

Words almost fail me on the Para ports. They were so different, the 1908 had a bit more VA on the nose (which settled a touch), was more brash and bold, yet bursting with concentrated flavour and decadence. The 1888 was even more incredible, so complex, smooth, intense and just a smorgasbord of the most wonderful aromas flavours you could imagine from a fortified. The finish was eternal.

The Odyssey 2002 was a brawny Coonawarran, yet in touch with it's feminine side too, good drinking. And the Morris Rare Tawny did itself proud in such esteemed company.

Palates were tiring, but we finished up with Dave's two lovely options wines, the Yeringberg 97 and the Kay Brothers Block 6 1995. Both were in good condition and most enjoyable, the Kay's particularly fresh and well structured. A fun way to finish with Dave's clever decoy options questions catching most of us out big time.

Food was superb as Cam's awesome photos show, and as always the company was easily equal to the quality of the wines!! Nice work fellow Grape Mates, a memorable evening indeed!

Cheers
Tim

[TiggerK]

What happened to the photo of everyone sitting around with big, silly grins on their faces?

Couple of silly grins anyway!

[ticklenow1]

Also, just out of curiousity, how was the '94 Edelstone. I have a bottle (that was kindly given to me) for the young fella's 21st in 2 years time. Will it still be OK?

Cheers
Ian

[TiggerK]

As per above... it's all up to the cork gods, and they don't like Henschke much.

The Edelstone was a tiny bit corked, but the fruit that was poking through was excellent, such a pity, #fucork.

[Panda 9D]

Good lord...I can't begin to describe how jealous I am

How hard is it to track down an 1888 Seppelt Para Liqueur Port? How much do they usually go for?

[Michael R]

Thanks for the notes and photos guys, I'd echo almost everything.
Great effort from Greg in particular.

The Arras and the 1888 para were my clear winners. Panda, think Dave got them at auction a while ago, a v good deal but still pricey, think was $1400 for both, hence we all chipped in. Would highly recommend you try the same as you only need a glass or so, and it's amazing to think about it's origins, what life was like back then etc whilst drinking it. Smelling and tasting it is pretty special, but nothing prepared me for the finish, which was tsunami-esque.
Grange was my pick from the rest, nose wasn't great but palate was on song. The BP seemed crazy young to me. V good, but certainly still on the up IMO.

Ian, Craig you have to get your crews onto the para's.....do it
If you don't have a crew, put one together asap and do it, to me it's about as fun as wine gets.

[camw]

• 1944 Seppelt Shiraz Sparkling Burgundy Great Western - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Great Western
  Very promising colour, with a dark red core fading slightly to an earthy ruby red at the edges. The nose has layers of complexity with cherry, chocolate, leather, licorice and the red fruit tinged molasses that seems to be a common trait with many of these very old Australian red wines. The palate still carries a tingling frizzante sensation which gave the wine a lift to go with the strongly savoury and earthy flavours. This bottle of legendary wine lived up to, and even exceeded my expectations and I'm very glad to have had the privilege to try it. 96/100

• 2000 Bay of Fires Arras EJ Carr Late Disgorged - Australia, Tasmania
  Wow. Stunning nose with great depth and power, there are aromas of toast, apple pie, lemon, pear, peach and some crème caramel notes. The palate is deliciously rich with enough acidity to keep it flowing across the palate. Fantastic stuff that I wouldn't hesitate to put up against very good Champagne. 93/100

• 1997 Tyrrell's Sémillon Vat 1 - Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley
  Colour looked fairly youthful. Reticent nose, there is some lemon and light toast. A little bit flat on the palate, lacking drive and either brightness or development. Not nearly as good as a bottle in June last year but much better than the badly corked bottle in March last year! 88/100
• 1995 Penfolds Chardonnay Yattarna - Australia
  Bold nose of spice, honey, hazelnut and toast. Rounded and showing lovely richness on the palate, it still had enough drive and acidity to carry the flavours into a long finish. Has aged really well and is great for drinking right now. 90/100

• 2005 Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay Art Series - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
  Oats, lemon, oak and spices on the nose. Very appealing palate, it is finely balanced between some ripe fruit, bright acid line and great length. Has really started to come together and show some of its potential since I last tried it a couple of years ago and another couple of years should see it improve further. 92/100
• 2005 Giaconda Chardonnay Estate Vineyard - Australia, Victoria, North East, Beechworth
  The nose was a little bit rubbery to begin with, but it quickly dissipated to show gunsmoke, vanilla, slate and some wax. The palate is decidedly rich but it has the acidity to handle it. For me it had the edge in texture over the 05 Leeuwin AS it was served next to, but it still needs a few more years to be at its best. 92/100

• 2002 Brokenwood Shiraz Graveyard - Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley
  First vintage of this wine under screwcap. Some floral notes with plum, cranberry and plenty of Hunter Valley style leather and earth. The fruit is definitely light-medium weighted but there is enough there that it isn't an issue for me and it melded well with the more earthy elements. Very good for the vintage, this is a relatively short term drinking prospect and I think it was showing really well right at the moment. 91/100
• 1994 Henschke Shiraz Mount Edelstone - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
  Corked. At first I thought it was only light, but it got worse and more noticeable quickly. NR/100

• 1996 Rockford Shiraz Basket Press - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
  Raspberry and blackberry on the nose, with cherry, leather and light licorice aromas. The palate is wonderfully balanced and refined, there is great depth to the fruit and it has excellent structure. Superb and really starting to live up to its early promise. 93/100
• 1993 Penfolds Grange - Australia, South Australia
  86% Shiraz and 14% Cabernet Sauvignon. Blackcurrant, plum, vanilla and cinnamon aromas. Palate has good powerful fruit and very good length, but the depth of a top Grange isn't quite there. Drinking well now and over the next 5 years. 91/100

• 1995 Mount Mary Quintet - Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
  Raspberry, spice and violets on the nose. The palate is light bodied and reasonably well balanced, for me though it doesn't really have enough interest, there isn't great complexity or all that much depth. 88/100
• 1986 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon John Riddoch - Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra
  Not a sound bottle. "Capsicum disaster" was my description, but there was some peppery and graphite aromas in the background. The palate was even less appealing unfortunately. NR/100

• 1975 Wendouree Cabernet Malbec Shiraz - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
  Deep red coloured, it looked about 5-10 years old, not even close to 38! Tobacco, blackberry, some violets and quite earthy aromas. Palate is medium weighted and is quite enjoyable without feeling especially resolved or deep. Should continue to drink well for quite some time still, but I can't really see it lifting greatly from here. 90/100
• 1967 Lake's Folly Cabernets - Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley, Pokolbin
  The first commercial release from Lake's Folly. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Shiraz according to the label. Very typical nose of the Hunter Valley - leather, spice, earth as well as some cherry and smoke. Probably not at its very best on the palate but it is doing more than just hanging on, there is some length to it and there is balance even though it started to fade slightly after time in the glass. Another piece of history and a real treat to try. 91/100

• 1996 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon Moss Wood Vineyard - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
  Graphite, cedar, cassis and blackberry aromas. Has a bit more fruit power than the 96 Cullen served next to it, but it is well restrained and structured. Shows excellent length. I couldn't split this and the Cullen the last time I tried them side by side (around 6 years ago), and I still can't, both are excellent and with time on their side. 92/100
• 1996 Cullen Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
  Tobacco, chocolate, blackberry and a light kirsch note. Medium bodied and really very well balanced, this is progressing very nicely since I last tried it about 6 years ago. It is still primary but it is coming together and integrating as hoped. Give it some more time and I think it should get even better. 92/100

• 1888 Seppelt 100 Year Old Para Liqueur Vintage Tawny - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
  A heady and intoxicating mix on the nose of raisins, caramel, coconut, ginger, rancio and dark chocolate - each note is so powerful it is as though it could stand on its own. Incredible richness and concentration on the palate with a balancing level of acidity that seems beyond belief. Unstoppable length, even after swallowing the wine has coated the mouth and persists brilliantly. Awe inspiring stuff. Right up there with the 1880, but the barest touch behind the 1905. 98/100
• 1908 Seppelt 100 Year Old Para Liqueur Vintage Tawny - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
  There is a hit of VA to begin with that subsides to show a nose with lots of spice - cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and pepper as well as cedar, milk chocolate and pencil shavings. The palate has a touch more freshness than the 1888, without perhaps having the same unfathomable depth, but it is exciting all the same, with brilliant length and power. There is a slight spirity note to the palate but it barely detracts from this treasure of Australian wine. 94/100

• NV Morris Tokay Old Premium Rare Liqueur - Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
  Only had a small taste of this, but it was very good and held its own against some incredible wines. Ginger, caramel and chocolate aromas. Very smooth and well balanced on the palate with depth as well. 92/100

• 2002 Katnook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Odyssey - Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra
  Cherry, strong blackcurrant, tobacco and obvious but not overpowering oak influence. Palate has bold ripe fruit but there are savoury undercurrents that keep it interesting. The tannins are assertive but they do not dominate. I would give it another 5-6 years to give it time to develop before looking at it again. 91/100

• 1995 Kay Brothers Shiraz Block 6 Amery Vineyards - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
  Lots of chocolate, blackberry and cherry on the nose, with some US oak and pepper. Still youthful on the palate, with powerful fruit, plenty of tannin and good length. I think it could use some more time, probably another 6-7 years to fully develop. 90/100
• 1997 Yeringberg - Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
  White pepper, earth, vanilla and graphite aromas. Very good focus and balance on the palate, this is drinking well now and should continue to do so over the short-medium term. 91/100

[monghead]

Looking at those Para ports coating the glass like motor oil really does get the juices running...

[odyssey]

Looking at those Para ports coating the glass like motor oil really does get the juices running...

The somellier must have been entertained watching us sticking our finger in and mopping up as much motor oil as possible.... (and it really did look like oil on your finger... should have gotten a photo)

[Stavros]

Got lucky at a tasting back in 2005, when Seppelt and other wineries, under Southcorp was it?, did a tasting in Perth
and on the night, Seppelt kindly opened a bottle of the 1905 Para, in the ensueing rush when they annouced it, myself and mate got our tiny taster and just savoured it. I especially remembered the legs it gave, so much so that when i saw Emma
Watson, the winemaker at Seppelts at the time past by us i asked her " do you have a piece of bread as i cannot get that last bit in the seat of the glass", only for her to laugh and proceed to pour myself and mate the last of the bottle for us.

I swear we get at least $50 worth each ( bottle was $1100 at time if i remember rightly).

No questions asked, it was and is the best wine, i have had the pleasure of tasting.

Cheers

[odyssey]

Good work!

I was joking that we should smash the bottle and lick the shards.

I ended up taking the empty 1908 home & was able to get maybe another 2ml out of it for my wife.... then happened to have a previously opened Seppeltsfield Grand Tokay sitting on the counter, so put a tiny swish of that in to lap up whatever might be stuck to the insides of the bottle in the hopes it might absorb some Para goodness.

The things we do.

[Christo]

Nice pics cam. drop me a line if any future events... seems interesting.
c

[phillisc]

Hi Cam, Dave and Tim,
thanks for the notes, one of the few rare wine dinners where I have more than half of these.

just out of interest the whole of line-up shot, there was a Wynns black label to the left of the Seppelts sparkling burg.
What vintage, and did it get consumed and was it ok??

Cheers Craig.

[dave vino]

It was a 1990 Wynns Black Label which Ben won at the GBB tasting which he brought along as an after dinner options wine. But we never got around to it, time was the issue and the restaurant wanted to close. Maybe next time.

We have been banned from bringing out options wines during the tastings now, so any that happen to fall into my bag can only be had after everything else is finished....

[odyssey]

As per above... it's all up to the cork gods, and they don't like Henschke much.

The Edelstone was a tiny bit corked, but the fruit that was poking through was excellent, such a pity, #fucork.

1994 Henschke Shiraz Mount Edelstone - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
Corked. At first I thought it was only light, but it got worse and more noticeable quickly. NR/100

Was a real bugger as I had been looking forward to this bottle for years.

Sending off to Henschke so will see how they deal with TCA.

[odyssey]

As per above... it's all up to the cork gods, and they don't like Henschke much.

The Edelstone was a tiny bit corked, but the fruit that was poking through was excellent, such a pity, #fucork.

1994 Henschke Shiraz Mount Edelstone - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
Corked. At first I thought it was only light, but it got worse and more noticeable quickly. NR/100

Was a real bugger as I had been looking forward to this bottle for years.

Sending off to Henschke so will see how they deal with TCA.

Henschke tested and approved that it was TCA affected, were very apologetic about corks and have sent me a replacement 1994 Mt Edelstone from their own stash (or optionally a 2008 instead if I wanted to avoid the troubles of cork... needless to say I stuck with the 94). Can't get any better customer service than that, even better than TWE (although Sparky's customer service is a national treasure, no pun intended).

Interesting to note in their emails to me they were expounding the virtues of switching to vino-lok, I remember those old "cork reports" on the forums had pretty poor results under vino-lok as a % of wines opened under that closure. Maybe technology has improved.