Steve Lubiana is a hard worker and a man of individual character. His wines are just like himself are also unique and individual. He is highly experimental, he is thriving for perfection. His wines are almost perfect. Almost.
All Stefano Lubiana wines comes from his 15 hectare vineyard in Granton, near the Derwent river, north of Hobart.
NV STEFANO LUBIANA
A very good sparkling wine with a label used to looke like Veuve Cliquot's, (according to them) now it's more like the Piper Heidsieck but the fact is that it's taste is very close to Laurent Perrier! Humour aside, it is an excellent Champagne style wine, it can certainly be mistaken for one.
Colour bright with pale gold. Persistent bead, mature and creamy palate of rich and tasty Pinot noir and Chardonnay. Good weight and flavour, plenty of honey and toast characters. Good length and a dry finish. This current release is READY in every sense, do not cellar. Cost AU $35 for those who can not afford Champagne but want to drink something similar.
2003 STEFANO LUBIANA Riesling
Certainly a step up from his quite good 2000 vintage I tried earlier. This is a very, very young wine, that hammers the message home with FEROCIOUSLY high acid on the finish.
Colour bright clear. Aromatic nose of Granny Smith apples, lemon and floral characters. Excellent richhness and sweet fruit on the palate, it's lemony, warm and flavourful. It has a mile long finish with plenty of acid, definitely a wine to drink with oysters. Will age well, no doubt, however this style is not my cup of tea. Could have been a great riesling. Cost AU $25.
2003 STEFANO LUBIANA Pinot Grigio
Colour bright clear. Lovely, sweet smelling and fruity nose followed by a pleasant palate with tangy fruit. Nice poached pear and lychee characters but the wine is finishing short. Can be cellared for 2 more years but no reason for that. I do LOVE great Pinot Grigio and I am saddened by this opportunity lost. Cost AU $25.
2003 STEFANO LUBIANA Sauvignon Blanc
Colour bright clear. Floral notes on the nose. A light, refreshing palate, that is lacking depth, liveliness or zest. Similar to some French Sauvignons, a seafood white that can not compete with the might of NZ but it doesn't need to anyway. Anyone who prefers a LIGHT and easy white with their meal, should go for this at AU $25. Mouthwatering acid on the finish.
2001 STEFANO LUBIANA 'Sur Lies' Chardonnay
Colour bright with gold. The nose is rather exciting, even odd with it's powerful FIG and musky aromas. The light plate does not deliver the richness promised by the nose but it is a pleasant drink. Unusual (at least for me) lemon notes in this Chardonnay. Trademark slightly high acid on the finish. Cost AU $25 for those interested. Will keep for 2-3 more years.
2003 STEFANO LUBIANA Primavera Pinot Noir
Now we are talking! This is when things are getting exciting! What a lovely wine!
Colour bright cherry. Amazingly fragrant nose of freshly cooked organic strawberry jam. Very sweet notes of raspberries, vanilla and cherries. The palate continues to be glorious. Beautifully rich palate of cherries, strawberries and red fruits. Well structured wine with everything in place. A definite triumph for Lubiana. Nice smoky spice on the finish. Drinking well already, this one however is only for short term, for 2-3 years cellaring. Well priced at AU $30, get it while you can. Delicious!
2001 STEFANO LUBIANA Pinot Noir
This pale yellow label is the step up from the Primavera. Comes at a much higher price too at AU $50.
Colour brick red. Restrained nose of red berries, toasty oak and some spice. The palate is quite savoury, powerful tannins grip the fruit. Very tightly structured wine, medium bodied. Lacks fruit generosity and richness but still good. Very much a Nuits-Saint-Georges style, needs time, at least an other 4 years. If you think of Pinot Noir as lolly water, this wine will correct a thing or two in your mind. On the other hand if you are looking for a rich and fruity style, that's not going to happen. The considerable tannins are balanced by fine acid, however there is noticable grainy oak on the finish that may throw this wine out of balance in a couple of years time. A good effort nevertheless.
2001 STEFANO LUBIANA Merlot
Colour vibrant dark red. Reserved nose of blueberries, cherries and walnut oak. Amazing, slightly bitter wild cherry aromas on the palate. Powdery tannins and powerful oak. Very tightly knit palate with concentrated cherry fruit and grainy oak. Definitely a Pomerol style, a long term wine that needs an experienced drinker. Out of the Australian Merlot mould, I for one would not have guessed that this was a merlot, in a blind tasting. For anyone already own this: do not open for at least 5 years, it will cellar for 10. It cost AU $25 and it is a serious wine at that price although lacking the charm that I'm used to with Australian merlots. Those with patience, will be rewarded.
Tasted:February 2004