Quick write-up on the Old World vs. New World Pinot night we had on Friday.
Final line-up from memory was (let me know if any changes need to be made)
2011 Giaconda Estate Chardonnay
2006 Bouchard Meursault-Genevieres Premier Cru
2008 Lethbridge Allegra Chardonnay
2007 Domaine Ramonet Les Ruchottes Chassagne Montrachet
2006 Bannockburn SRH Chardonnay
2011 Kaiora Bay Reserve Pinot Noir
1995 Domain Bart Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru
2005 Bouchard Beaune Marconnets Premier Cru
2001 Bass Philip Premium
2002 Bouchard L'enfant Jesus Premier Cru
2010 Armand Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
2007 Felton Rd Calvert Pinot Noir
2011 SRH De La Terre Pinot Noir
2010 Mt Mary Pinot Noir
2010 Hillcrest Premium Pinot Noir
2001 Hillcrest Pinot Noir
20?? Curly Flat Pinot Noir
20?? Mornington Estate Pinot Noir
1980 Lindemans Bin 5910 Hunter River Burgundy (corked)
1992 Greenock Creek Cabernet Sauvignon
1991 Limestone Ridge Cabernet SauvignonWe had the private room area of Rocket to ourselves with 2 tables of 8 and 10. Very good facility for offlines, away from other customers so we can be a bit more boisterous. Service was really good, constantly asking if everything was ok and if there was anything they could do to help us (opening bottles, getting things decanted, making sure we had enough glassware) So kudos to the wait staff at Rocket. The food was very good, we ended up going with 2 entrée and a main + dessert due to the number of bottles we had and it turned out to be just the right amount of food over the 6+ hours we were there. Could become a quasi Club House due to its great location, proximity to trains etc. Good to see some new faces and a bevy of regulars.
Didn’t take notes so am going from memory, by the end of the night it was a bit of a blur, with bottle swapping happening between the 2 tables, a real swingers wine tasting
Started off with a Giaconda Chardonnay (as you do) was showing prominent oak and some steely/flintlock on the nose, I think it might be in a bit of a hole at the moment. I left it sitting for a while and it started to show some life with nice lemon characteristics coming through, and softened on the palate. Don’t touch for at least 5 years. Will be very good.
The Bouchard Meursault had a very vibrant nose, lots of interest. Banana/tropical fruit and a nice texture.
The Lethbridge had more acid than the front row of a Sgt Peppers Beatles concert, grapefruit, tart lemon but proved to be a good foil to the Ch-Montrachet. This to me exemplified the different Cru’s of Burgundy. Having a GC Batard-Montrachet a couple of weeks I could compare the two (fwiw) the Ch-M would hit you on the front of the palate with gobs of flavour and then peter out in the mid-palate and resurface at the back. Whereas the B-M was just a consistent wave of intensity of flavour and fruit and an overall more rounded texture. In isolation the Ch-M is a wonderful drink, with great purity of fruit and intensity with a wonderful balance and acid structure. Would love to put it up against an older Giaconda. (hint, hint Mick
)
Tim then produced an options wine, which turned out to be a Bannockburn SRH, one of my favourite Chardonnays, my humbleness precludes me from mentioning that I managed to pick this correctly early in the proceedings, so I won’t *cough*
On to the Reds, we started off with a Kaiora Bay which was served blind, I had it as a 2011 Aussie due to the fruit being somewhat green and anaemic. Bit too lightweight on the palate for me.
The 95 Chambertin CdB was showing well, real meaty, truffles, gamey on the nose, a touch oxidative I noticed with some soy notes/bbq sauce (bizarre I know). Nice weight on the palate, great length, nice red fruits (cherry/strawberry) with coffee beans and smokiness coming through the longer it was in the glass and some nice leathery characteristics.
The 05 Marconnets had a good nose of Dr Pepper Cola, cherry, almond with a bit of white pepper. Refreshing to drink with an almost Cru Beaujolais style to it.
The Bass Phillip was/is probably Australia’s closest Pinot to Burgundy in style. He has really gone all out with this in producing a wine that blind you’d be picking it as a good Premier Cru Burg every time. Very meaty on the nose, lots of dark fruits, (cherries/plums/blackberry) great balance still lots of life in it, although it was integrated very nicely and makes for great drinking now.
The 02 Baby Jesus, was all sour cherry, spice, sulphur on the nose, with a lip smacking sappiness to it. Had a bit of singe on the nose when I took a big sniff. This settled down as I left it in the glass and it gained weight becoming more rounded on the palate, losing the volatility. Not sure if it was decanted prior. If not, probably could have done with a couple of hours.
The 2010 Rousseau Ch-Cham was a revelation. It stood heads and shoulders above the others in my opinion. The purity of the fruit, to the luscious mouth feel and length that just went on and on. Meaty nose, with strawberries and cream interwoven around it. Very approachable even now, with the tannins providing a silky backdrop to its structure and balance. Damn this is good, unless I win the Lotto or something I won’t be drinking too much of it.
The Felton Rd was most un-NZ like. Usually you are hit with a massive nose coming out of the glass, the Calvert was very refined, earthy, dare I say very Burgundy like. The Bannockburn DLT was way too green and stalky for my tastes. 2011 was not a good year for a lot of places in Oz.
The 2010 Mt Mary was interesting in light of the Quintets vertical tasting I was at last night. Stylistically the Quintets are going in one direction and the Pinots are going in the other direction. Quintets to a more heavier, fruit forward style whereas the Pinot is seemingly going more lighter, more elegant style with good mouthfeel, and bright fruit (it still has a good backbone of tannins to carry this fruit) I think someone even said almost Gamay/Booj in style. I enjoyed in it the context of the tasting giving respite from all the heavy hitter styles.
A bit of a background on the 2010 Hillcrest Premium, I told Tanya about the tasting and that I was putting it up against the 2010 Mt Mary, so she suggested to put it up against their 2010 Premium which she would dig out for me. Week goes by and I’m organising accommodation and making sure wines are all out of the cellar and ready and it dawns on me I’d forgotten to order the Hillcrest. So a rushed Email to Hillcrest and Tanya organised it to be sent via Express for me to arrive in time. And even put in a 2001 version of the wine as she thought it would be interesting for us to compare them. Massive thanks for this, if this is how you treat randoms like me I can’t imagine how great the service is for a good customer
So on to the wines… compared to the Mt Mary it was like chalk and cheese. The Hillcrest is a big hulking Pinot, lots of fruit extraction, great structure, dark cherry, fills your mouth with its presence and texture. It’s almost saying to you, sit down, shut up, belt up and hang on for the ride. I’d happily sup this with beef cheeks or other Provencal fare. Support these guys they are doing some great wines!!
2001 Hillcrest Pinot Noir was another interesting one with an anecdote from Adair who told us that Phillip Jones of Bass Phillip fame was making the wines at Hillcrest for the first few years. It was like a bolt of lightning when he said that, as I was tasting it and I’m like this is soooo Bass Phillip in style. It was like the Calvert vineyard in NZ with 3 different winemakers using the same fruit and how they can influence the style of the wine. It was meaty, gamey, more laid back in style. Very nicely done and aging really well, drink up.
We also had a Curly Flat which was drinking well from memory (very blurred memory by now) and a Mornington Estate Pinot to round up proceedings.
We then moved on to the backups/options/other tables wines...
The 92 Greenock Creek was really interesting, in the pre-Parkerized days it was a lot more elegant, with a bit of funk. It kind of reminded me of a 92 Mt Edelstone I had a while back. Everyone was really surprised when I unveiled this. Go back to this style!! Not the 16.5% monsters.
The Lindemans was in a perfect place with the tannins fully resolved and great fruit and suppleness on the palate. Drink this now, as I can’t possibly see how it could get any better than this. Perfecto.
Great night all round, great company as always. Looking forward to the next one. (so much for the ‘quick write-up’).
Apologies for the food photos, I tried to Cam Wheeler them up and failed miserably, one day...I'll keep on plugging away at it. Smoked Ham Hock Terrine w/ Sweet & Sour Pickled Pumpkin, MacheChar Grilled Squid w/ Chorizo, Corn, PastichioChar Grilled Eye Fillet w/ Mushroom Gratin, Broad Beans, Porcini JusCorella Pear & Honey Tart w/ Chocolate Ice Cream