TN: AFWAC - The Annual Rockford Review 28/11/11

[n4sir]

Last week the Adelaide Fine Wine Appreciation Club (AFWAC) staged the last of their monthly meetings for the year, with the latest vintages of Rockford (and a couple of tasty museum wines). Next years meetings are scheduled to kick off the end of February with the planned catered picnic where all newcomers/non-members are very welcome – anyone interested in future AFWAC events can email the club at: afwac365@gmail.com


2011 Rockford White Frontignac (screwcap): Very bright, pale straw/green, almost colourless. This is drier and spicier than recent releases, lychee, brown lime and ginger on the bouquet, becoming rather sweaty/Sauvignon Blanc-like with breathing; the palate’s just as spicy and earthy with a slippery texture, a little Gewurztraminer-like with a grippy finish. A bit of an early drinker for the label, but still best suited to Thai curries.

2009 Rockford Eden Valley Riesling (cork): Pale straw. Pithy and grassy, quite lifted and more than a little like the semillon, with tangy, glossy magazine print characters; the palate’s very dry with a big hit of acid on entry, a pithy mid-palate, and grippy finish. Not particularly approachable or enjoyable right now – it’s either in a flat spot, or is a massive disappointment for what should have been a good vintage.

2000 Rockford Vine Vale Riesling (cork): Dark gold. Fully developed and spicy, honey, gingerbread and a whiff of sweet lanolin, becoming buttery with breathing; an entry of surprisingly sweet melon leads to a spicy-mid-palate, the finish pulling up short to reveal a slightly corky aftertaste (not TCA, but definitely an influence by the cork).

2007 Rockford Local Growers Semillon (cork): Medium yellow/green. Very closed, tight and pithy overall, releasing small whiffs of sweet lanolin, grass and glossy magazine print characters like the 2009 riesling; the palate’s just as tight and pithy, with a touch of almond and toasty characters on the finish. Like the 2009 riesling this seems to be in a bit of a hole.

2011 Rockford Alicante Bouchet (screwcap): Dark rose pink with a very noticeable spritz. Sweet nose with raspberry jellies and rose petals, but there’s also a noticeable black pepper character too; the palate’s soft, round and sweet to begin with, but has an extremely dry finish with more savoury/meaty characters with breathing. I like this one better than the last couple of vintages.

2009 Rockford Frugal Farmer - Grenache Mataro fermented on Alicante skins (screwcap): Medium red/purple. Very sweet but also savoury/peppery, sweet cherries and slightly medicinal/clove characters; a soft/slippery, very sweet entry leads to rather confected, peppery, light to medium weight palate with minty heat and a bitter finish. Different to the same time last year, but not an improvement.

2007 Rockford Moppa Springs Grenache Mataro Shiraz (cork): Medium-ish garnet. Dark and sweet, earthy and dusty, darker, less overtly sweet and more perfumed than the 2009 Frugal Farmer; likewise the palate’s darker and deeper although still only medium weight at most, raspberries and pepper with a minty/hot mid-palate and short finish. Mixed feelings about this one – a little disappointing, at least at this stage.

2004 Rockford Rod & Spur Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 55% Shiraz, 45% Cabernet. Medium to very dark blood red. The nose is big and minty, full of blackberries and wintergreen, becoming more medicinal with breathing; a slippery entry leads to a powerful, meaty palate with black cherry/blackberry and choc-mint, finishing minty and dry. Much more youthful and fleshy than the 2008.

2008 Rockford Rod & Spur Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 53% Shiraz, 47%, Cabernet. Medium to dark red. The nose is sweeter and more grapey than the 2004, raspberries, earth, red and black liquorice with a noticeable alcoholic burn; a spicy/peppery entry leads to a rather hot, porty mid palate with nutty chocolate, finishing sweet but rather lean with a minty rebound. An early drinker.

2009 Rockford Rifle Range Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): Medium to almost dark crimson with legs on the glass. Sweet nose of cassis and vanillin/banana oak, some wood polish, cedar, parsley and dried herbs with breathing; the palate’s spicy, medium to full weight with sweet, jubey fruit and very fine, gravelly tannins and a lick of black olive, some black fruit on the rebound. One of the better 2009 Cabernets I’ve tried this year.

2009 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz (cork): Dark to inky red/purple. Very young and grapey, full of black cherries and red liquorice, peppery and meaty, chocolate/cocoa nuances; the palate’s just as sweet and young with touches of herbs/stalks and pepper, very grippy with a long, chalky finish, not a big BP but well balanced.

2003 Rockford SVS Hoffmann Shiraz (cork): Medium to very dark crimson/garnet. Showing it’s age from the first whiff, oily and earthy with mocha chocolate, cedar, raspberries and dried herbs, some black liquorice with breathing; likewise the palate’s already at its peak, ripe raspberries, chocolate and herbs with oily/petroleum characters underneath, finishing dry.

NV Rockford Sparkling Black Shiraz – disgorged from August 2011 (cork): If I’m not mistaken this is a subtle change compared to previous recent releases with the addition of the word 'from' to the time of disgorgement. Medium to almost dark crimson with a good mousse and fine bead. Quite peppery, herbal and slightly green, the fruit in the raspberry spectrum with red and black liquorice, the mid-palate rather lean and the finish dry and ever so slightly metallic. A bit of a departure from the previous couple of releases – while I get the feeling it may be better with food, I’m not a fan.

2004 Rockford Cordon Cut Semillon 375ml (cork): Light to medium amber. Very sweet and very grassy, predominantly bluegum honey and lawn cuttings, a little quince paste with breathing; the palate’s full of the same honey sweetness, a touch of date and grass, finishing dry. It’s a tad cloying and grassy for my liking – I prefer botrytis semillon & cordon cut riesling to this.

1987 Rockford Botrytis Cinerea Rhine Riesling (cork): Dark amber/gold. Fully developed, with teacake, nutmeg and biscuity spices, then wildflowers and banana cake; the palate’s lighter and brighter than the 2004 cordon cut semillon, with a crisp, mineraly finish.


Cheers,
Ian

[phillisc]

Thanks Ian, I will be heading to the CD in Jan 2012.
I will get BP and a few others, and based on your note often less is more, reminds me what was said at the time about the 93 and 95, now both drinking well esp. 95.
I am aware that the cordon cut is available to Stonewallers, but have not heard of the botrytis riesling.
Is there only 1 03 SVS?
Cheers Craig.

[n4sir]

I am aware that the cordon cut is available to Stonewallers, but have not heard of the botrytis riesling.

Botrytis Riesling was a 1987 brought along by a club member - fixed now.

[rens]

Hi Ian
Thanks for the notes-great as always.
I'd like to know your thoughts on a drinking window for the SVS please.
Thanks in advance.
Rens

[n4sir]

Hi Ian
Thanks for the notes-great as always.
I'd like to know your thoughts on a drinking window for the SVS please.
Thanks in advance.
Rens

The 2003 SVS is a drink now proposition. It's already showing heavily aged characters very similar to the 1996 SVS last year, so I'd say it's at its peak now and won't improve much, if at all - those who choose to cellar it further do so at their peril.

Cheers,
Ian

[rens]

Thanks Ian. I have a bottle so I will make sure it gets consumed in the next year or so.

[Mike Hawkins]

Thanks Ian - I haven't tried any of my 09 BPs yet, so appreciate your note. It actually reminds me of what (I think) the 2006 was like at release (I could be wrong altogether). Is that the case ?

Cheers

Mike

[markg]

Great notes Ian. Twas a good night

[n4sir]

Thanks Ian - I haven't tried any of my 09 BPs yet, so appreciate your note. It actually reminds me of what (I think) the 2006 was like at release (I could be wrong altogether). Is that the case ?

I can't say Mike - 2006 & 2004 happen to be the two vintages I haven't tried in the last nine years.

Great notes Ian. Twas a good night

Glad you enjoyed it Mark - normally there are more people there, but with it being moved back a month this year four couples who usually attend were interstate this time around.

Cheers,
Ian

[phillisc]

Going up tomorrow morning 11/1 ( can't wait) so will see if I am brave enough to post a few tasting notes.
Cheers Craig.

[phillisc]

Well here goes, my notes will be nothing like Ian's pearler's (which I always enjoy reading) but i really enjoyed my flying visit yesterday.

The new northern express way, well new for me anyway, first time I've driven on it was a treat, unlike the moronic things we do here in Adelaide (one way free way anyone?) and then up that ripper Gomersal Rd,(why it it limited to 90ks I will never know, went a fair bit quicker than that) pass ACI's big glass bottle factory and down to Krondorf Rd to be the first Stonewaller in for the day.

Must have started a trend because by 11:15 there was 13 of us, so we kept the Rockford staff busy..but a great vibe.

09 EV Riesling I really enjoyed this, freshly opened bottle, very floral nose with slight sweetness and citrussy lovely light palate, refreshing crisp and a good expression of what this variety should be...a good effort

07 Local Growers Semillon, would agree with others here, re pithy floral tones very much like the Riesling but would not say in a hole, almost earthy rich and buttery with lovely acid that puckered the mouth....got a few of these

?09 fronti. a rather simple white after the first 2 but that's the plan and the design of this wine I think, lovely melon, straw just the right balance of sweetness with out any cloying features, a good example. a couple for next weeks holidays on the coast

Alicante... not tasted...do not like the style

Frugal farmer.. a nothing wine quite frankly and essentially for me a waste of grenache and what ever else it is blended with, opened a few minutes before I arrived and had precious little on the nose other than a dirty sort of barnyard smell.. heat and again hot on the palate, clumsy, disjointed and just yuck.
I can not really see a future for this wine, other than Rockford making a decision that this is an entry point wine like Noon's 12 bells ( but no where near as good or complex) and put it at $10-12.

Now for the reds.. correction proper reds...all opened on the morning and decanted prior

07 MS GSM I really liked this dark fruits, earth, leathery musky a real concoction, sweet on the palate, no alcohol burn and for me really punching above its weight, surprisingly balanced. I think this will be good and got a few to put away.

08 R&S S/Cab.....wow my favourite wine of the line up....shiraz characters that did not wish to reveal themselves and if this makes sense, the cab was given a free ride, really sweet rich and for me very full bodied....had to put the glass down...then came back and it started to reveal sweet fruits strong but not harsh tannins and a balanced but somewhat grippy finish. this wine for me has an easy 20 year drinking window......will have to try an 08 389 to compare but can't see it being better than this....6 to put away

09 RR Cab for me and my passion for cab from Coonawarra and YV made this wine a bit of a mystery. between the S/Cab and the BP this wine was a little lost and the most approachable of these 3 reds lovely sweet almost cassis and usual varietal blackberry.. a hint of that earthyness, wondering if this is a theme with some of the reds, really juicy sweet berry flavour on the palate and really to easy to drink right now.. a few to put away... feel that this will be a very graceful mellow wine in the future.

09 BP Shiraz....back to what a young power house should be... but really closed...swirled the glass and agree with some cherry and chocolatey notes on the nose with really lovely fruit on the palate..pepper and tannin that went on and on and on....for me this was a really solid BP..dare to say full bodied and reminds me a little of some of the BPs around 93-95 on release.. got the obligatory 6 the first BP since the 99 that i have tried on release...must get to the CD more often

03 VP, not much to be said fantastic sweet could start the day with this.. balance of fruit and spirit right in the slot...should have got one.. oh well always next time.

Well my first set of tasting notes, rudimentary but sums it up for me.. in all the excitement of the visit forgot to try the Black Shiraz. A potato pie and a vanilla slice from Linke's Bakery at Nuri and a good trip home. Job done

Cheers Craig.

[thomashouseman]

A good read, makes me want to re-visit. (Bit hard from Sydney) I always try to tack in a bottle of VP in my annual Rockford order and they've never refused yet even though it's not on the order form.

T.

[ticklenow1]

Craig,

Were there any SVS's on tasting. In another thread someone says that that the '05's are out. Normally they have them on tasting in the Stonewallers Room. I missed out on the '02 and '04 because they sold out by the time I got to the CD. Annoys me a little, but that's the way they do things (CD only).

Cheers
Ian

[phillisc]

Craig,

Were there any SVS's on tasting. In another thread someone says that that the '05's are out. Normally they have them on tasting in the Stonewallers Room. I missed out on the '02 and '04 because they sold out by the time I got to the CD. Annoys me a little, but that's the way they do things (CD only).

Cheers
Ian

Hi Ian, thanks
there were no SVS on tasting, the 03 sold out a while ago and what i could gather there was just one release for that year.
You have not missed out on the 04s ( going on what i was told there will be 2 wines and are due out in 2-3 months...probably 90-95 each). Rockford have stopped the policy of mailing out in the post info around stonewallers and SVS releases, and will now do all of this through the website in the section relating to stonewallers tasting room. Funny though, never saw any of this detail for the 03...must be blind!

please see my other post under Janruary purchases... we have a forumite ( who i may have duly offended but no offence intended) that either lives in switerland or can get access to SVS exports there.
i know Atilla has mentioned that there was an 98 Hoffmann which 100% went OS ( which gives me the shits quite frankly) and sincerely hope that this practice has been stopped. i don't want to feel like Ian with the Kalimna Club debarcle, and would sincerely hope that Rockford has more integrity than that...after all Rocky's mantra is looking after loyal customers who look after us... i have done so for 23 years now.

Cheers and will keep on the look out.
Craig.

[crusty2]

Craig,
I believe the 1998 all went overseas because a Major Shareholder (Part Owner?) ordered the lot.
Not a lot you can do if the "Boss" takes the lot.

Cheers
Phill

[ticklenow1]

Craig,

Thanks for the Info.

I'm going to the Barossa in May for the Black Magnum Golf Day, so hopefully there will be some '04 left then. I might have got my wires crossed with the '04, but I missed out by only a few weeks on the '02 and to be frank, it gave me the s#^%s. I've only got '00, '01 & '03 and enjoyed them all on tasting. Definitely long term wines.

Cheers
Ian

[thomashouseman]

Craig,

Thanks for the Info.

I'm going to the Barossa in May for the Black Magnum Golf Day, so hopefully there will be some '04 left then. I might have got my wires crossed with the '04, but I missed out by only a few weeks on the '02 and to be frank, it gave me the s#^%s. I've only got '00, '01 & '03 and enjoyed them all on tasting. Definitely long term wines.

Cheers
Ian

Hehehe, I'm the same with the BP, started collecting in 99 and have at least a single bottle of every year except one since then, and it was my own silly fault for missing out. (Well that and finances)

[BlaCkAdDa]

Well here goes, my notes will be nothing like Ian's pearler's (which I always enjoy reading) but i really enjoyed my flying visit yesterday.

Frugal farmer.. a nothing wine quite frankly and essentially for me a waste of grenache and what ever else it is blended with, opened a few minutes before I arrived and had precious little on the nose other than a dirty sort of barnyard smell.. heat and again hot on the palate, clumsy, disjointed and just yuck.
I can not really see a future for this wine, other than Rockford making a decision that this is an entry point wine like Noon's 12 bells ( but no where near as good or complex) and put it at $10-12.

I couldn't disagree more, it's the only wine out of my Rockford order I've opened and I really enjoyed it as a refreshing wine. A lighter style but with some complexity and flavour. I can understand how it may seen odd though if you're tasting it amongst a whole range of heavier reds which your palette tends to lean to. On its own though I really enjoyed it and it went well with some pork at the time, I think you could food match this with most things you'd match a good Pinot to.