1998 Kay Amery Grenache - An Update

[Mahmoud Ali]

I wasn't able to open anything appropriate for International Grenache Day but it was on my mind and so, finally, I opened a bottle of 1998 Kay's Amery Vineyards Grenache, McLaren Vale, 14.3%. This bottle was bought at cellar door and has been with me since. The back label says it was "ideal for immediate enjoyment or short term cellaring. I should have listened.

The wine was pretty simple, sweet lolly water and no structure. There was little if any tannins left and no freshness at all. It has turned into a bit of a dud. I've had plenty of excellent Grenache and Grenache-based wines from the Old World that cellared very well but have yet to have an Australian example.

This bottle makes me think that I should pull out my other bottles of Australian Grenache to see how they're doing.

[Michael McNally]

What else have you got lying around Mahmoud?

Just curious.

Cheers

Michael

[Mahmoud Ali]

Well, if we're talking straight Grenache, I think only two others,

1996 d'Arenberg 'The Custodian' and 1999 Tim Adams 'The Fergus'.

What do you reckon Michael, the Custodian next?

Mahmoud.

[Michael McNally]

Both are from better vintages than the Kay Amery (I think 98 is over-rated while 99 is under-rated and 96 was just a stellar year). I don't have much experience with either of those labels from that long ago sorry Mahmoud, so it would be just a guess. I think the Custodian is "made to cellar" so should still be going strong. I have only had recent vintages of the Fergus (02 and 04 from memory) but I recall a fair bit of grunt.

Only one way to know for sure.............

Cheers

Michael

[GRB]

I don't have vast experience with either of those but from the few examples I have tried the custodian is more likely to be kicking along with age that the fergus.

GB

[Mahmoud Ali]

Warning, a resurrected post.

Very uncharacteristic for me I opened a bottle of 2009 d'Arenberg 'The Custodian' Grenache tonight. I was working late so it was a case of unscrew and pour, which really didn't do justice to the wine as it didn't really get to unwind. The roast beef was medium rare and the wine was a fine match. The wine started out closed but kept opening up with air. I think it will really do well with a good decade in the cellar.

In November I opened the '96 Custodian which I bought in London. That was a revelation, a beautifully mature wine with ripe tomato and earthy flavours, and a soft gentle finish. A fine result from a 16 year-old wine. Australian Grenache can age when well made.

By the way, let me explain why I opened the young Custodian. I needed a wine for the roast and had nothing older at home. I went to the fine wine store on the way home to buy a bottle of wine but found that they were closed. However through the window I saw that they had a couple of bottles of the '07 La Curio Bush Vine Grenache on sale. I immediately decided that I would open the Custodian and "replace" it the Curio.

First thing tomorrow I'll call the store and put them on hold.

Cheers..........................Mahmoud.

[ufo]

If you want to taste a brilliant aged Aussie Grenache, get your hands on a 2003 Kalleske Old Vine Grenache.
I've just opened up one from my cellar and it blew me away. I've never thought that Grenache could age this well and be so good.

[Mahmoud Ali]

Okay, I picked up the La Curio Reserve Bush Vine Grenache but it was the '08 and not the '07.

Anyway, in the interest of vinous studies I decided to open a bottle with yesterday's leftover roast. The La Curio is medium-bodied and wasn't as dense or dark and brooding as the Custodian. I think the Custodian needs more airing upon opening and is more cellar worthy, and I would give it an edge over the La Curio.

The '08 Curio is brick-like in colour with a terracotta rim. The nose is initially sweet but has plenty of oak and spicy ripe tomato vine fruit emanating from the glass. The palate is savoury, has a touch of sweetness, a stony earthiness, and a dry finish of ripe tannins. Quite nice. I'd love to try it in another few years. Yummy.

Mahmoud.

[cuttlefish]

I'm a bit of a fan of Adelina from Clare Valley. If you really like Grenache, see if you can get your hands on some of this.

[Mahmoud Ali]

ALERT - Another post resurrection!

Three years ago, in 2011, I opened a bottle of the 1998 Kay's Amery Vineyard Grenache. Tonight I decided to open my second and last bottle. Previously it was dull and boring but tonight it showed a whole lot more.

On opening and decanting into a small Spigelau carafe-styled decanter the nose was exotic and welcoming. In the glass it continued to develop and change over time, from a funky, sweaty, earthy quality to a slightly sweet, strawberry-laced nose with a hint of lolly water - something akin to what I smelled before but this time a lot more restrained. Meanwhile, on the palate, it was deliciously ripe, earthy, somewhat sweet, with a touch of berry-like fruit and a hint of astringency - it was fully mature but not over the hill considering what it was like three years ago.

This was a nice, pleasant drop, a light to medium-bodied wine full of mature characteristics and plenty of interest. This proved to me the fascinating and unpredictable quality of wine evolution. It also vindicated, at least to me, the idea that one should alway wait upon a wine that isn't drinking well - there is nothing to lose and there may well be an upside. This was a case where I hated the wine but with time (admittedly only three years) it was a delicate but lovely drop.

Cheers...................Mahmoud.

[Chris1980]

Thanks for the update Mahmoud. I have some 2006 KB Amery Grenache laid down so I will try not be tempted to open a bottle too early!

[Mahmoud Ali]

Thanks for the update Mahmoud. I have some 2006 KB Amery Grenache laid down so I will try not be tempted to open a bottle too early!

Only do it if you like old wines with a lot of tertiary character - I love old wines that have turned the corner, away from red or black-berried fruit and towards rustic, earthy, ripe characteristics. For me, young berried fruit is readily available, but old, mature wines need time and patience.

Good luck..............................Mahmoud.

[damonpeyo]

Interesting to see how Head Wine's 2013 vintages of the Ancestor and Old Vines Grenache's compared in cellaring despite their advertised cellaring/drinking windows.

I really enjoyed the '13 Old Vines recently, brilliant. Makes me wonder if should be drank youngish ...or leave it longer ...