The Eternal Search for a full Malolactic Chardonnay

[graham]

Having hit the Wine Emporium in Brisbane numerous times and drinking my way through all their full and partial Malo Chardonnays - favourites being the Tapanappa,Pierro and Chateau St Jean from Sonoma, it becomes clear that the modern chardy palate has left me behind. I decided t hit the the souce of all knowledge (the internet) and have found depressingly few vinyards do it any more which just reinforces my sence of angst Has anyone tried the following vinyards : Nicholson River, Somerled and Miceli. Now I lay down a challenge to you all,if any can give me the name of a woody, buttery malo chardonny which I can source, buy and like I will send you a bottle as your bounty.

[cuttlefish]

Kumeu River are 100% malo, or were a few years ago when I asked the winemaker.

[graham]

Thanks for the advice, I've sourced and purchased:
Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay Auckland
Kumeu River 'Coddington' Chardonnay
Alpha Domus 'AD' Hawkes Bay Chardonnay
Man O' War Waiheke Island Chardonnay
Main Divide Waipara Chardonnay
Kumeu River Mate's Chardonnay

Will post notes next week when they arrive.

Graham

[Moredsir]

I feel your pain and my search has also been long for the same, this is what I've found;
Jeanneret Oakey Dokey 2007 - not sure that it went through malo but it did spend a long time on lees, and is an old style chard
Don Bronte Chardonnay 2005 (cork) - again no mention of malo but for my taste I reckon it's buttery and again clearly old style
Madeleines (aka Vincognita) Musque Chardonnay 2009 - again a long time on lees, not really old style as the above but I think has the flavours you're looking for and is not the acidic cp that most Chard is nowdays.

[ozwine]

try geoff merrill 2001 res chard - Luke W mentioned it some time ago. not sure its malo, but its old style, buttery. be aware theres some btle variation. (its back at graysonline)

[burgster]

Its a fine line between the old style rough and ready chard in this style and the more modern elegant style that I suspect you seek. One of my favourites is the Pierro that you mentioned. From NZ I would suggest you look out for Clearview Reserve or Riverby Estate. Perhaps Pegasus Bay.

[graham]

Main Divide (Waipara) 2008
The aromas and flavours suggest zesty citrus fruits, yellow plums and peaches. It has good concentration and fruit weight in the mouth with a creamy palate. There is spine of minerality which helps keep it focused and draws out its length. Notes from vineyard comment on butter toast on palate which I did not detect, another one hits the dust.

Man O War (Waiheke Island) 2008
Clean citrus and melon. Nice mid palate finishing with fresh crisp acidity, ripe fruit and a focussed finish. Too new age for me, can not really taste oak or characteristics I am after

Alpha Domus ‘AD’ Hawkes Bay 2007
The nose displays a delicate aroma of ripe stonefruit, hints of biscuit and mineral . Well balanced wine with flavours of orange zest, ripe peach and citrus. Barrel fermentation contributes vanillin, spice and creamy hints. Crisp acidity results in a long finish. Most buttery of the bunch, will get this one again.

Kumeu River Coddington 2006
The palate displays some apricots, mild burnt butter. Unfortunately this wine was past its life, very bland on the nose and not what I'd call a pleasant hit on the palate. (keeping for a guest I have tonight )


Ordered friday so will post next weekend:

2008 Tapanappa Tiers Chardonnay

2008 Geoff Hardy Wines K1 Chardonnay

[burgster]

Not sure where you got the idea, Man o War, Main Divide or Kumeu River would be what you were after. They are not ones that I would have thought were like that at all.

[graham]

Called a Nz wine online firm and asked for their recommendations (sorry to our provider for mentioning another retailer but not by name !) Clearly need better advice, Auswine??? Help???

[Mahmoud Ali]

I don't know if the Sacred Hill 'Riflemans' Chardonnay has malolactic fermentation but it was a beautifully integrated complex wine. It was the wine of the evening at a recent dinner and I had to go back to the store and pick up the remaining four bottles for my friends before I left town.

I had to "pull a Mahmoud" as I picked them up for only C$20 a bottle.

Life is beautifull.....................Mahmoud

[burgster]

Riflemans is certainly a classy drop, and at $20 an absolute bargain.

[griff]

Check out Millers Dixon Creek Chardonnay. Not full malo but certainly older-style. The 2006 was very good indeed for the price.

[cuttlefish]

Check out Millers Dixon Creek Chardonnay. Not full malo but certainly older-style. The 2006 was very good indeed for the price.

This Chardy is only about 25% malo, but it is a cracking wine.

[Michael McNally]

Ahh the wise cuttlefish.

Yes only minor malo but a hint of creamy buttery goodness to tempt the malo-freak. Perhaps not enough to satisfy..........

Great wine, though no butterball.

Cheers

Michael

[Mark Jappe]

I had the questionable pleasure of trying an insanely malolactic chardonnary yesterday which might suit. It was the 2005 Tapanappa Tiers by Brian Croser. It is pricey retail, but can be had at auction for $35 ish. This was not to my taste at all, but certainly fits the hill malolactic wise. It was drinking a glass of cold melted butter, yummy!

[chillwrx]

Had a Bird in hand Nest Egg Chardy on the weekend (2008, $60 retail I think) with whilst not appearing to be full on butter monster is close to what it sounds like you are looki ng for. Great wine.

[Gavin Trott]

I had the questionable pleasure of trying an insanely malolactic chardonnary yesterday which might suit. It was the 2005 Tapanappa Tiers by Brian Croser. It is pricey retail, but can be had at auction for $35 ish. This was not to my taste at all, but certainly fits the hill malolactic wise. It was drinking a glass of cold melted butter, yummy!

Man, I'm with you, tried this, didn't like it at all!

Under all that malo action is actually some really good fruit, being absolutely murdered by the full malo, and a fair bit of oak!

.

[TiggerK]

Sounds like it's perfect for graham then!!

I have rather good memories from the late 90's heading down to Parramatta Lake with my (ex-) girlfriend enjoying antipasto and some really cold buttery oaky malo chardy's on a hot summers evening.... No idea what the wines were, but yum at the time. (the wine of course ).

Now I need a chardonnay of a different style......

Cheers
TiggerK

[daz]

Bird In Hand Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2009 - partial malo, partial wild yeast fermentation, barrel fermented, 9 months in french oak, lees stirring. Here's the link to the winery tasting note:

http://www.birdinhand.com.au/shareddocu ... nnay09.pdf

The winery pdf says JH 95pts - on his site it's 93, the Nest Egg is 95. Still, the cheaper wine is a fair dinkum bargain for the $15.16 (incl freight) I paid for it. Not particularly buttery but has a nice viscous mouthfeel, some complexity.

[chillwrx]

I agree Daz. Had the 09 at cellar door too, but the 08 Nest Egg is a pearler.

[daz]

I agree Daz. Had the 09 at cellar door too, but the 08 Nest Egg is a pearler.

Would love to try the Nest Egg but at $60 the general diminishing qpr of wine as cost increases puts it out of my value range. At the same price, in a 3/3 6pk I got some Saltram Shiraz Cabernet 2006, another very good vfm wine though not discounted as much as the Bird In Hand chard.

[graham]

by Mark Jappe » Wed Apr 27, 2011 6:34 pm

I had the questionable pleasure of trying an insanely malolactic chardonnary yesterday which might suit. It was the 2005 Tapanappa Tiers by Brian Croser. It is pricey retail, but can be had at auction for $35 ish. This was not to my taste

Just got a six pack.....looking forward now.

Graham

[graham]

Couldn't wait 4:00pm late enough for the first bottle of the night. 2008 Tapanappa Tiers, not the 05 as recommended
Stone fruit, grapefruit, obvious oak. Long and tangy, mouth-filling. Butter/brioche but not over the top.This one is too young, needs 5 to 10 years more. Another baby cut down too early.

Graham

[Malo-mad]

Have just joined the board looking for recommendations for the elusive 100% malo's and am much amused that we all seem to be floundering in a sea of 'modern' - dare I say - homogenous chardonnay.

Anyway, if you other Malo-mad folk out there want a bono fide 100% malo chardie - well, get ready for heaven - Lamont's White Monster, any vintage (currently 09). Just fill a bucket and let me immerse my head in it's buttery, slippery, figgy incredible-ness. Margaret River fruit. Retail $55 -ish. Hey, if you're ordering that, you may as well order their Black Monster - 100% Malbec. These two puppies are my desert island wines. I can and do appreciate other well made chardies - preferably with some malo. And if subtlety is your thing, forget them. Wouldn't cellar either of them for long - but when they taste so good, who would want to?

Am I being too extreme by saying winemakers have swung their pendulum too far towards aiming for Chablis wannabes? What is it with them trying to emulate a wine style from another country with its own particular terroir that could never be recreated in Oz? The Americans love malo and they're a way bigger market than France (which is notoriously parochial), so why don't they aim for the yanks instread of trying - probably unsuccessfully - to impress the frogs?

As a buyer of many different highly-priced chardies recently - desperately seeking differences - I reckon we've in danger of losing our way. It's all become frightenly similar and somewhat pedestrian. The equivalent of elevator music.

I realise the wood was kinda overdone by some in the past - and there are a host of beautiful home-grown chardies on our shelves, all tasting much the same in the citrus, oatmeal, leesy style - but really... why all this insipid quasi-chablis? Sacre bleu!

[Waiters Friend]

I have to support Malo-mad's enthusiasm for Lamont's White Monster. I am a semi-frequent visitor to the cellar door / restaurant (Fiona Lamont does a fabulous job at a frequently - varied tapas menu) and it has become my favourite Swan Valley haunt. They mix it up a little with the wines as well, with Mt Barker riesling - but for me the Chardonnays are the go - the standard is good, the wild ferment wasn't me, but the White Monster is the duck's guts. I have 08 and 09 in the cellar, but not convinced they are stayers. However, good 'drink soon' wines.

[dave vino]

Good luck getting any with only 30 cases made.

[Malo-mad]

Like all special things - get on their mailing list!

Lakes Folly has a reasonable amount of Malo - it's a lovely drink.

Leeuwin Art Series is my fav (overall) but I think, has reduced the Malo content over the years (but I could be wrong). 05 was super, 06 - a cool year in MR - was a much lighter bodied, more towards Chablis type wine. The body came back in 07 but a smidgen behind the 05 in terms of body.

Lots of really fab chardies out there but as I said, seemingly a bit difficult to differentiate one from another within regions - MR is usually easier to spot due to fuller bodies.

I await Moorooduc The Moorooduc which I had some years ago and had that magic Malo so I'll let you all know how it goes.

[cuttlefish]

I kind of know what the OP is after here, but I can't understand this seemed shortage of 100% malo chardies. There is no shortage of 100% malo chardies around. What, I believe the OP is after is a more full style exhibiting more obvious oak influence. So, barrel fermented chardies are obvious candidates. Big fruit matched to equally big oak the holy-grail as long as it's all in balance. I also believe that to a degree as Aussie chardies age they can show more developed and less fruit-more buttery characters.

[Malo-mad]

I haven't got ESP so you may be right - Graham may just want to find a big, blousey, cuddly chard amongst the increasing numbers of lighter bodied citrus fruit driven chardies coming through.

If you're out there, Graham, please re-enter the discussion and tell us exactly what flavour profile you're after.

I think this is quite a worthwhile thread - being a chard freak myself (okay, just a freak) - it touches on what people really mean when they say Malo. For example, Moss Wood 2010 is a big MR chard with a slathering of really glorious oak but no Malo. It's a &$@!ing excellent drink - love it a lot. But completely in a different flavour profile to the 100% Malo White Monster.

like I said - I really go for a big blousey butter bomb - the equivalent of a glamorous drag queen (hmm, that came out kinda wrong -no I don't go for drag qu's) - increasing hard to find as Graham alluded to originally. Then there's the woody type of old like Moss Wood and then there's the citrus peach silky, ethereal (I hate that word) seemingly high acid, lower alcohol slender young gym slips of things that are proliferating. They're ALL good but what makes some of them great is - and I agree with you, Cuttlefish - balance. As long as the fruit is there, these bigger styles are really world class.

So Cuttlefish, you say there's a load of 100% Malo butter bombs out there - please enlighten us.

Hey, I found another great Malo - The Lane 2010. Beaut. Yarra valley so not as big as MR Chardie and not a butter ball - some butter on mid palate and lovely butterscotch aftertaste.

[dave vino]

Not sure if it has been mentioned but I think Stonier Reserve is full malo, the cheaper one is also but they blend in about 10% none-malo to give it a bit of zing.