Capital Tasters February 2011 Wine Dinner - Rubicon

[dlo]

Somewhat hazy memory notes from Wednesday evening. Mostly excellent night except for two very crook Italians.

Krug 1995 - slight bronzey tinge to the colour with an eye-catching swirling stream of the tiniest beading. Beguiling aromatics and a kick-arse palate holding that rare combination of top flight complexity (citrus, pastry shop and fine digestive biscuits) and restrained power followed by a wonderfully long, satisfying finish. Should last for a number of years but is ready for business now. 93 points

Maximin Grunhauser M-S-R Abstberg Auslese Riesling (Fuder 45) 1994 - immensely youthful with little colour development and pristine aromas and flavours of redcurrant, citrus, quince marmalade, minerals and slate. Not heavy or dense, amazingly lithe and with perfect equilibrium. 93 points but perhaps a shade down on the bottle I opened for the group last year.

Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling Vendange Tardive 1989 - opened disappointingly (somewhat disjointed aromatically) but the transformation over the course of the evening was just stunning. This is drop-dead gorgeous botrytis affected Alsace Riesling that finishes practically dry with great carry. A legend but I have had better bottles. 93 points

Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 2000 - not opened

Jean-Jacques Confuron Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux-Monts 1996 - another wine that shone brightly on the night. Incredibly good sappy things on the nose at first evolving into something more feminine, floral and plummy by the end of the glass on a very promising, yet to fully resolve, framework. A polished, classy, seductive and thrilling pinot. Long term cellaring vintage. Terrific example this. 94 points

Ch. Leoville-Las-Cases 1985 - perhaps the most youthful bottle I've had the pleasure of opening. Quintessential Bordeaux - earthy, leafy, cedary, tarry over deepset black fruit with a structure and finish to die for. On this bottle's performance, has a long, long way to go. My wine of the night. 95 points.

Pira Barolo 1961 - oxidised

Produtorri del Barbaresco 1979 - corked

Ch. Coutet Cuvee Madame 1986 - not in the same class as the last bottle opened late last year but still a very fine Sauternes on the night. Of the good bottles we opened this was the most disappointing for me. 91 points (compared to the previous bottle - 97 points!). Bottle variation sucks.

Taylors Vintage Port 1970 - this did the trick for me with that uncanny cherry/cranberry liqueur fruit and awesome spirit combo that makes Portuguese VP the great wine it is. Still very youthful with astonishingly good astringency and length with a long drinking window. 93 points

The restaurant excelled with a special degustation menu matched to the wine. Apart from one of the starters (blue-eye cod something-or-other), the parfe' (riesling's), rabbit raviolo (burgundy), slow-roasted lamb shoulder (Bordeaux) and orange/ruby grapefruit dessert (Sauternes) were very good to outstanding. The tenderness and flavour of the lamb being the standout dish for me.

[griff]

Oooer! Nice line-up! How long did you have the port decanted for out of interest?

cheers

Carl

[dlo]

Oooer! Nice line-up! How long did you have the port decanted for out of interest?

cheers

Carl

We gave it an hour in a swirling decanter, then perhaps another hour in the glass, Carl. Paul took what was left home. I reckon he might still have some left as I type. He may be able to add more on how it's looking with more air time.

[Jordan]

Yes, it was a great dinner with some excellent food by Rubicon complimenting the excellent wine generously provided by David.

With such a high standard of wine it is tough to pick out a highlight or favourite as each wine had its own dazzling effect. However, 2 days later the balance of power and finesse of the 1995 Krug and the beguiling nature of the 1996 JJ Confuron are the forefront of my memory. And this is not to take away from the two superb rieslings or the exceptional Bordeaux either.

Below are some ad hoc notes scribed via my phone as 'communal tasting notes', i.e, I recorded the descriptors being shouted out around the table.

1995 Krug: power, length, citrus, orange rind, shelly, leesy/cheese, grippy. More please. Burnt orange/yellow.

1994 Maximin Grunhauser M-S-R Abstberg Auslese Riesling (Fuder 45): rosewater, cumquat, honey, melon, pear juice, floral, balance, baked German cakes. Turkish delight. Flinty. Gold yellow.

1989 Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling Vendange Tardive: minerals, smoke, Superb with duck parfait, exotic, pineapple, lychee, spice? White pepper!? dry phenolic finish. Wet stone. Pale straw.

1996 JJ Confuron Vosne Romamee 1er Les Beaux-Monts : Uber complex nose: Dry cherry, truffles, wet leaves/earth, floral violets. Sour cherries, sweet plums on finish, soy, refreshing acid. Long. Complex.

1985 Leoville Las Cases: super deep Ruby. Looks like 2004 coonawarra. Capsicum, peas. Fresh, and so young! Menthol, great with slow cooked lamb shoulder. Lots of life. Cassis. Plums violets. tobacco, cedar.

1961 Pira Barolo: stuffed.

1979 Produttori Barbaresco: corked.

1986 Coutet Cuvee Madame: burnt orange, cumquat, marmalade, brown sugar, apricots, candied lemons. Luscious but balanced.

1970 Taylors Vintage Port: malty, slightly volatile, cherry, cranberry, cola, refined spirit. Yum.

[dlo]

Hey, Jordan, thanks. I could have done with those descriptors whilst typing up my recollections last night. Good job. Jordan's notes convey a lot of information and another dimension about what eminated from the glass and in the mouth.

[odyssey]

Nice lineup and notes! Gee what terrible luck about two stuffed bottles though! Gotta feel for you there.

Cheers,
Andrew