Storage of Madeira (Boal).

[prester john]

I have been contemplating purchasing some older Madeira (Boal) recently and have been advised by the importer that Madeira should be stored standing up due to the high level of acidity of the wine. It seems that if the bottle were to be stored on its side like a standard bottle of wine with a cork stopper, the acidity of the Madeira would, over time, consume the cork and obviously ruin the Madeira.

The key to proper storage, it seems, is to store the Madeira upright in a place of higher-than-normal humidity. This places me in a dilemma since I have not place to give the Madeira the special treatment it might deserve.

Therefore, my question for those forum members who have more expertise than me on this subject is: should Madeira indeed be stored in an environment of higher humidity, or is it suitable to store it on its side like any other wine?

Best,

PJ

[Glen]

John

I have my 1863 stored horizontally. I just don't buy into the acid eating cork theory, besides many corks don't last 20 years anyway!

I have also heard people saying that Madeira should be consumed quickly once opened to enjoy the 'freshness' of the bottle. If the cork was to shrink while standing up, this could be a problem based on the above theory.

[Baby Chickpea]

I remember emailing all the main houses years ago asking this question (as well as the doctor that runs the Madeira Wine Guide website, and Roy Hersh, the noted port lover who also loves his madeira). Unanimously all stated bottles should be stored upright, not on side. In fact, d'Oliveira and Henriques & Henriques said that it is fine given (1) they have had bottles stored upright for over 100 years (intermittently recorked every 20-40 years) with no problems and (2) headspace has enough "humidity" (can't remember precise term but had to do with air vapour in head space in bottle between wine and cork) to keep cork from drying out.

[Mahmoud Ali]

I have also read in places that Madeira should be stored upright but I just couldn’t get myself to do it. The few bottles I have are lying on their side. But then again, they aren’t that old. The oldest bottle I have is not vintage dated but is about 15 years old. However, given Baby Chickpea’s advice I may stand them up when I get home.

Glen, I wouldn’t worry too much about the freshness of Madeira. The wine is stored in barrels stacked up to the rafters in the hot Madeira summers. It is literally baked in what is called the Estufa method. The wine is so oxidised that I don’t think you could destroy it.

Once upon a time I left home for a backpacking trip that got over-extended. The result was that five years later sitting around the dining room drinking wine with my friends we came to the end of the meal. When we finished the desert wine someone spotted a half-empty bottle of Malmsey that was on the sideboard. I explained that it had been opened five years earlier and had been sitting there ever since. But my friends were willing to give it a go. Well, it was rich, sweet, unctuous, balanced and long. My friends loved it, as did I, and wanted to now if I had any more and if I would sell them a bottle. I have never been able to find the name of the producer in any of the literature. I fear that the wine is probably at its best when allowed to “breathe” for five years.

The lesson I learned was that Madeira is so oxidised and cooked in the making that it cannot be ruined. If there is one wine that I would buy in any condition it would be Madeira.

Cheers……………….Mahmoud.

[Glen]

Glen, I wouldn’t worry too much about the freshness of Madeira. The wine is stored in barrels stacked up to the rafters in the hot Madeira summers. It is literally baked in what is called the Estufa method. The wine is so oxidised that I don’t think you could destroy it.

Thanks Mahmoud, I appreciate what you are saying however the 'freshness' that I am referring to (hence the ") is a result of the amount of liquid to ullage in an unopened bottle compared to a half drunk bottle, it has nothing to do with oxidation. I have read and heard from experts about this same phenomena with Whisky, and have experienced it firsthand with Cognac, and Armagnac (less noticeably). It is a very small change in the freshness of the bottle supposedly due to volatisation into the ullage, therefore reducing the amount of volatiles upon pouring into a glass, and hence appearing less fresh, or 'stale'.

Btw I highly recommend a visit to Madeira for anyone travelling over that way. It goes down as one of my best wine experiences.

[Mahmoud Ali]

Glen, I see what you mean.

Yes, I would very much like to visit Madeira. My sister was there back in the 80s and thoroughly enjoyed it. I still have the bottle of Boal she brought back.

I like that Jancis Robinson. Thanks Adrian.

Cheers...........Mahmoud.

[prester john]

Thank you all for your responses. While the jury may not have applied a verdict with any unanimity, all things considered I am inclined to store my Madeira vertically and recork if and when required. Somehow, I'm have a feeling it will not last sufficiently long to necessitate recorking.

Applying the same logic, I think I'll store my cognac vertically, since it too would also be subject to higher-than-normal acidity.

Again, thank you all for your responses and your trouble. That's what makes this forum so good.

Best,

PJ.

[Glen]

(2) headspace has enough "humidity" (can't remember precise term but had to do with air vapour in head space in bottle between wine and cork) to keep cork from drying out.

Baby Chickpea, wouldn't this be the case for any wine if it was indeed correct?

I don't buy into this one either!

John, I have no idea what the acid is in Cognac, but I doubt that it is as high as Madeira.