New Zealand impressions

[Julio]

Just back from a month in NZ – stunning country, strongly recommend a visit.

Wine impressions

Unfortunately I did not get to Hawkes Bay, however I did sample wines from the region at restaurants and from bottle shops (predominantly in the $15-$25 bracket). I have to state up front that Sauv Blanc and I go together like tooth paste and orange juice – I just don’t like the stuff and I didn’t bother sampling the NZ offerings (even in Marlborough).

The general standard of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and to a lesser extent Riesling and Gewurtztraminer is outstanding and very reasonably priced. Chardonnay in particular.

Cabernet and Shiraz and there usual sidekicks were very disappointing with a few very notable exceptions. The oak seemed to dominate and not because they were over-oaked wines, just that there was a distinct lack of ripe fruit. Waiheke Island’s wines came nowhere near matching its reputation. Their reds are grossly overpriced. Margaret River, Coonawarra, Mclaren Vale, and Barossa make far better cabernet and cabernet blends in my opinion. A good example is the Stonyridge Airfield (Cabernet Merlot) – this is the wine that gets the Larose fruit in vintages that aren’t deemed up to scratch to make the Larose. It sells for $70+. There are several Australian equivalents at half the price that are much better wines.

Pinot Noir is an entirely different story. The general standard is very high… noticeably higher than Australian Pinot. Strangely enough I thought the best Pinot I tried came from the Nelson hills rather than the area around Blenheim. Central Otago Pinot was also very good. There was a massive difference between the wines on the Nelson plains and the hills with the latter winning hands down.

Wines of the trip

2004 Neudorf Moutere Pinot Noir (Nelson)
You can tell this quality from 6 feet away. Powerful but balanced nose of smoky dark cherries. The palate is more of the same with a lovely bit of spice thrown in. Wonderful length. Thanks to the Kiwis on this forum that recommended this producer.

2003 Himmelsfeld Chardonnay (Nelson)
This is a very small producer (less than 600 cases per year) producing some very high quality wines that are released only when the winemaker thinks they are ready. This didn’t give much away on the nose. The palate has sublime balance and acidity with layers of mildly creamy nut, honey, and mellow citrus flavours. In the best half dozen Chardonnays I have tried which makes the $33 price tag stunning value. As an aside, their Cabernet was one of the exceptions to my earlier comments. They also make a Botrytis Chardonnay which has won medals at international wine shows. It is sublime but very restrictive at $140 for a half bottle. If you twist the winemaker’s arm she might let you try it at the cellar door.

2004 Herzog Montepulciano
Never had Montepulciano before but I will definitely be having it again. All this producer’s wines were high quality but this one stood out for mine. Lovely dark fruits, charred oak, dark chocolate, with a sort of earthy, gravel rusticity. Beautiful balance and length and will easily get 10 years in the cellar.

2004 Greenhough Pinot Noir (Nelson)
Unfortunately the cellar door was not open when we were in Nelson but we took a chance with this wine when we dined at Gibbs (next to Cloudy Bay vineyard, great nosh) and we were not disappointed. Lovely red berries with a bit of mushroom smokiness and oak. Medium bodied as far as pinot goes. Once again lovely balance and length.

[Craig(NZ)]

Waiheke Island’s wines came nowhere near matching its reputation.

any waiheke reputation is very out of date. Airfield at $70 is a joke! larose itself can be extremely good but now $150 so my buying days are over. waiheke is riddled with overpriced rubbish. Cant pass up $60 coleraine to trash anything on waiheke at that price. passage rock has good syrah though

Agree with you assesments generally, and im starting to become concerned at the number of 'who cares' wineries putting out $40-70 wines. shocking!! it can only serve to push the prices up on the good stuff if these price points are supported by the market.

C

[J]

Craig,
Where is value located in premium NZ red? Have just bought some Te Mata Bullnose as an entry into NZ Syrah to test the waters. At $45 seems OK QPR if it all its cracked up to be.

[KMP]

We also tasted at Nelson during our visit in December. More impressed with Greenhough than Neudorf

I really liked the 2005 Greenhough Pinot.
Greenhough Hope Vineyard Pinot Noir 2004 (screwcap) (14.0% alcohol)
Matured in 35% new French oak this wine is light cherry in color, and with very typical spicy notes of Pinot Noir together with flavors of red fruits and ripe lychees. There is almost a touch of sweetness on the palate, and the flavors carry extremely well providing great length to this delightfully balanced wine. Drink 2006-2010. 92/100.

Greenhough Hope Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005 (screwcap) (14.0% alcohol)
The yields were considerably lower, and the flavors more concentrated in 2005 and it shows in this wine. It lacks the overt spicy notes of the 2004. Instead there are deeply seated fruit and savory flavors with a touch of pepper rising just above the surface of this densely packaged, classy wine. The mouthfeel is soft and silky with prominent, vibrant acidity that carries across the palate and will need time to integrate. But thus is an excellently structured wine that will reward patience. Drink 2008-2015. 94/100.


The Neudorf wines didn’t do much for me,. The best was the Moutere 2004 Pinot.
Moutere Pinot Noir 2004 (screwcap) (14.5% alcohol)
Indigenous yeast fermented and matured in French Oak barrels (40% new) for eleven months, this is a richly aromatic, riper style of Pinot Noir with a stalky character. Soft and silky in texture with a beautiful carry of flavors onto the palate, nice balance and good supporting acidity. Drink 2006-2011. 88/100.

We also visited Herzog in Marlborough and had a very nice lunch on the lawn. Got to see the dining room and their wine cellar where you can also dine. Also had tour of the winery and barrel room. All courtesy of Simon Kelly; thanks Simon! Their wines were certainly very good, but I was not excited by them. However I also have bottle of the Montepulciano, because it is unusual for NZ.

Mike

[Craig(NZ)]

Where is value located in premium NZ red?

Answer for my palate this year:
Coleraine $65
unison selection $45
puriri hills reserve $55

very much depends on vintage and what style you like. i like a refined finely boned and subtle red

vintage i buy heavily in top vintages and basically none in poor-avg vintages.

Some transcend vintage conditions well. unison selection and good vintages of coleraine and awatea are my staples. i also have started taking a gamble on wines from puriri hills from auckland, though the prices arent bargains there. it is a minefield that should be negotiated depending on personal preference. i guess ive found a few labels over the last decade that i like and i support after trying many many wines. most hawkes bay red is good, but its a struggle to find stellar stuff at bargain prices.

pinot i cant seem to buy enough as im extremely fussy and critical but the value is definitely in otago in good vintages - carrick, mt difficulty, karawrau estate etc. also value in cellaring it as good nz pinot improves in the cellar. i see so many judgements about oak and stuff from people trying new release stuff. patience required!! integration occurs! There has been some good marlb efforts this year. ive been impressed with fromm la strada and nataulis this year, also palliser from martinborough is pretty tidy this year in the cheaper bracket.

syrah is an experiment. ive cellared a few big syrahs to see what happens around the $30-40 range craggy, vidals, unison.... and te mata bullnose would sit here too...its more refined. see if it works...ask me in 5 years