All,
We're off to San Francisco region in a few weeks for our honeymoon and am visiting the Napa Valley and Sonoma for a couple of days. Have been once before, a few years ago but at the time did not do much in the way of tasting. We're staying at Healdsburg and then St Helena. Any tips on eateries / wineries to visit, beyond the usual suggestions? Any stuff in the city itself and environs would also be welcomed.
Thanks, in advance...
Tips for Sonoma and Napa and the Bay Area?
Tips for Sonoma and Napa and the Bay Area?
Cheers
Wayno
Give me the luxuries of life and I will willingly do without the necessities.
Wayno
Give me the luxuries of life and I will willingly do without the necessities.
I visit San Fran regularly, and it was also a stop on my honeymoon.
The Napa is a beautiful area. I don't remember thinking too much of the wines though. I don't like Zinfandel and their Merlot, whilst a cut above the Aussie stuff, was still Merlot. One winery that did stand out, however, as having a lovely, decently-priced Cab Sav was this one:
http://www.vsattui.com/
I must open another one soon.
As for other things to do in the area:
- Visit Lake Tahoe
- Visit Sequoia National Park
- Don't eat at Arby's
Stuart
The Napa is a beautiful area. I don't remember thinking too much of the wines though. I don't like Zinfandel and their Merlot, whilst a cut above the Aussie stuff, was still Merlot. One winery that did stand out, however, as having a lovely, decently-priced Cab Sav was this one:
http://www.vsattui.com/
I must open another one soon.
As for other things to do in the area:
- Visit Lake Tahoe
- Visit Sequoia National Park
- Don't eat at Arby's
Stuart
I'm always asking for wine help here, so it's a pleasure to be able to provide some assitance in the other direction for once 
Wide open question, but I'll try to help. The two places you've chosen (Healdsburg and St Helena) are both good choices, probably the best places to stay in each Valley. Here are some ideas (all from long-time personal experience, if that means anything 
)
Remember it is winter here (duh), weather is on the cool side, may be wet on any given day (though odds are against it). It is actually an ideal time to tour wine country, since the crowds are down, restaurants are more available, etc. Most of these places have web sites, I'll leave it to you to track them down. A good one for your time in Russian River area is www.wineroad.com. Another is www.sonoma.com/wineries particularly the map pdf. Exactly which dates will be you here? The weekend of March 3/4 (and this year also 10/11) is Russian River "Barrel Tasting", a very fun event where most wineries pour barrel samples, though things will be more crowded (make restaurant reservations now, or get your hotel to help you).
Healdsburg: From here there are several scenic drives I would highly recommend, all with excellent winery stops.
1) Take the drive down Westside Road to the west of Healdsburg (be sure to pick up a Russian River Wine Road map at your hotel, free, some of the roads can get a bit confusing). This is one of the premier drives in the county. Stop at Rochioli, one of the most famous Pinot producers here, they will be pouring/selling their estate Pinot. There are numerous wineries along this road, but you don't have a lot of time. I would also suggest Gary Farrell, farther down the road, a beautiful location, and good wines.
2) Head north a couple of miles to Dry Creek Valley. Easiest route is to take Dry Creek Road from the north end of Healdsburg. Dry Creek Valley is a warmer climate growing region, and specializes more in Zinfandel and Syrah than Pinot (which you find more of in Russian River area, though these are only a few miles apart). Along Dry Creek Road there are many wineries. My recommendation is to stop at David Coffaro. Dave is an eclectic guy who makes quite a few wines, all fun to drink, and quite affordable. Highly recommend Papapietro-Perry, and Ridge winery (along Lytton Springs Road). In the town of Healdsburg itself, be sure to go to Seghesio for their excellent Zins.
3) Your third alternative route in Sonoma County is to head south along Highway 12 between Santa Rosa and the town of Sonoma (If you are coming up from SF to Healdsburg, take this drive from south to north). Parts of the Hwy 12 route are some of the most beautiful you will find in wine country, and there are several very fine wineries along the way. Some that I think are worth stopping at are Chateau St. Jean, Landmark, St Francis, Arrowood. Do NOT stop at the Ledson monstrosity, though attractive from the outside, the wines are terrible, and it is a "hard sell" place.
Restaurants around Healdsburg: in town there are a number of good places, depending on your budget. For lunch, consider getting sandwiches, etc., for a picnic at Oakville Grocery (right on the Square). If you want to try some good Mexican food, try the little place right across the street from Oakville Grocery. For dinner, Dry Creek Kitchen is excellent. Cyrus is supposedly outstanding (though pricey). Ravenous has a very good rep. If you are willing to drive a few miles out of Healdsburg, my personal favorites are Mirepoix in Windsor, and The Farmhouse Inn out along River Road, west and north of Santa Rosa (www.farmhouseinn.com). Mirepoix is a remodeled old house, with maybe 10 tables, very cozy and romantic. All have excellent wine lists, and will help you find something you like in your price range (and all will allow BYOB for a corkage fee). Dry Creek Kitchen allows any Sonoma County wine to be brought in (I believe that's it, maybe just Russian River area) for free as long as it's not on their list.
Getting from Healdsburg to St. Helena: There are several ways to do this. The easiest is to head to Alexander Valley Rd (Highway 128), and south into Napa Valley. 128 essentially forms a triangle with 101 at the head of the two valleys. Another route is to go south on 101 a few miles, then take Mark West road to the east to Petrified Forest Rd, across the hills dividing Sonoma and Napa counties. This has some curves, but is a relatively tame road, not too difficult on your passenger. A third route is Calistoga Rd/Spring Mountain Rd farther south still, branching off Hwy 12 to the southeast of Santa Rosa. Probably not much reason to do this, except that there is an excellent winery at the very top of the mountain: Pride Mountain, well worth a stop for their Cabernet (as well as Merlot and Chardonnay). If it is a clear day, the views are spectacular from this 2000+ ft vineyard/winery site. You need an appointment to go here, and they are closed Tuesdays. Appointment is no problem to get, it is only a formality because of their winery license.
Napa Valley: From St. Helena there are dozens of wineries to choose from. There are two major roads running the length of the valley, Hwy 29 on the west side, and Silverado Trail on the east (separated by a mile or less most of the way, Silverado tends to be much less crowded if you're trying to travel some distance north-south). See the map on this site, which has links to all the wineries: www.napavintners.com I spend much less time in Napa Valley these days, but it is a beautiful place with lots to do and see. There are many smaller wineries and "cult" wineries you could try to visit, but frankly there are enough very fine larger wineries to keep you busy, and less stressed with getting and meeting appointments. Unfortunately, most of the wineries charge for tasting, although you can always try to sweet talk them with your honeymoon thing
My first recommendation would be to go to Chateau Montelena, an old winery that was brought back to post-prohibition life about 35-40 years ago. They now charge for tasting, but most of the big Napa wineries do, and this one is worth it. Consider doing the tour if you have the time, though it may take longer than you want, and you will need advance reservations. Montelena makes one of the finest Cabernets in Napa Valley for my tastes (though it is not in the big "cult" style more common among the newest producers). Montelena is outside of Calistoga, north of St. Helena (about a 10 minute drive, if that).
Joseph Phelps is another winery I would recommend, for both the quality of the wines and tasting, and scenery. They have several different possibilities for tasting, check out their web site. Phelps is off Silverado, to the east from St Helena. www.jpvwines.com
Stags Leap Wine Cellars: farther south off Silverado. This is the winery that produced the winning Cabernet in the original '76 Paris tasting. I just happened to have one of their 04 Cabs the other night at dinner, and it was very nice. www.cask23.com
Shafer: Also down south off Silverado (though a bit tricky to find). Very good wines, beautiful location. www.shafervineyards.com
Otherwise, just cruise up and down 29/Silverado, and stop where you feel like it. Mumm is a nice stop (on Silverado, mid-valley) for their Sparkling wines, and if you have any interest in fine photography they have an excellent fine print exhibit (which right now is a terrific Ansel Adams collection). No charge for the gallery. I would probably avoid the biggest wineries, like Mondavi, Beringer, Beaulieu, you won't get any kind of personal service here. Though the wineries I've listed above are large enough, they are still privately owned, and seem to do a good job of providing a good experience for visitors. V. Sattui that was mentioned above is a very popular picnic spot. I've never actually gone in there, but they apparently are well known for their high end food deli. A few other wineries I wouldn't hesitate to stop at: Peju, Flora Springs (just a tasting room at the south end of St Helena, next to the fancy Dean & Deluca deli/wine shop).
Napa Valley restaurants: this is food heaven, there are so many great restaurants to choose from. In the "affordable" range, my first choice would be Martini House in St Helena. Then you have many to choose from: Wappo Bar & Grill in Calistoga (www.wappobar.com), Bouchon in Yountville, Tra Vigne in St Helena, Mustard's Grill in Yountville, Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen inSt. Helena. If you want to go really high end (leaving out French Laundry, which will be nearly impossible to get into, and will run you $200+ each), there is La Toque (Rutherford), Auberge du Soleil Restaurant, (Rutherford), and one or two others. Unless you guys are really into food, the $$$ are too much for my blood.
San Francisco: Too many restaurants to count. Here are some I know first hand, or have impecable reputations (I just copied/pasted part of a list from my notes):
Chapeau
1408 Clement St
(Clement @ 15th)
415.750.9787
Acquerello
415-567-5432
1722 Sacramento Street
San Francisco
www.acquerello.com
Very fancy Italian, quiet, elegant dining room, no view.
Hawthorne Lane
Bacar
Boulevard
Indigo
415-673-9353
687 Mc Allister St.
(between Gough & Franklin)
San Francisco
T-Su 5:30 - 11 pm
www.indigorestaurant.com
Jardiniere
415-861-5555
300 Grove St
Beautiful room, great ambience, excellent food
www.jardiniere.com
Cafe Jacqueline
415-981-5565
1454 Grant Ave. in North Beach
If you want intimacy, try Cafe Jacqueline. One of the most romantic restaurants in the city. Very small, mostly souffles (you pick out the ingredients, like crab and leeks, incredible chocolate souffle for dessert)
The above are relatively affordable. You can again go higher end for more $$$ at places like Fifth Floor, Elisabeth Daniel, Gary Danko, Aqua.
Please feel free to ask any specific questions you think of. Hope you have a great time!
Cheers,
Alan
Wide open question, but I'll try to help. The two places you've chosen (Healdsburg and St Helena) are both good choices, probably the best places to stay in each Valley. Here are some ideas (all from long-time personal experience, if that means anything )
Remember it is winter here (duh), weather is on the cool side, may be wet on any given day (though odds are against it). It is actually an ideal time to tour wine country, since the crowds are down, restaurants are more available, etc. Most of these places have web sites, I'll leave it to you to track them down. A good one for your time in Russian River area is www.wineroad.com. Another is www.sonoma.com/wineries particularly the map pdf. Exactly which dates will be you here? The weekend of March 3/4 (and this year also 10/11) is Russian River "Barrel Tasting", a very fun event where most wineries pour barrel samples, though things will be more crowded (make restaurant reservations now, or get your hotel to help you).
Healdsburg: From here there are several scenic drives I would highly recommend, all with excellent winery stops.
1) Take the drive down Westside Road to the west of Healdsburg (be sure to pick up a Russian River Wine Road map at your hotel, free, some of the roads can get a bit confusing). This is one of the premier drives in the county. Stop at Rochioli, one of the most famous Pinot producers here, they will be pouring/selling their estate Pinot. There are numerous wineries along this road, but you don't have a lot of time. I would also suggest Gary Farrell, farther down the road, a beautiful location, and good wines.
2) Head north a couple of miles to Dry Creek Valley. Easiest route is to take Dry Creek Road from the north end of Healdsburg. Dry Creek Valley is a warmer climate growing region, and specializes more in Zinfandel and Syrah than Pinot (which you find more of in Russian River area, though these are only a few miles apart). Along Dry Creek Road there are many wineries. My recommendation is to stop at David Coffaro. Dave is an eclectic guy who makes quite a few wines, all fun to drink, and quite affordable. Highly recommend Papapietro-Perry, and Ridge winery (along Lytton Springs Road). In the town of Healdsburg itself, be sure to go to Seghesio for their excellent Zins.
3) Your third alternative route in Sonoma County is to head south along Highway 12 between Santa Rosa and the town of Sonoma (If you are coming up from SF to Healdsburg, take this drive from south to north). Parts of the Hwy 12 route are some of the most beautiful you will find in wine country, and there are several very fine wineries along the way. Some that I think are worth stopping at are Chateau St. Jean, Landmark, St Francis, Arrowood. Do NOT stop at the Ledson monstrosity, though attractive from the outside, the wines are terrible, and it is a "hard sell" place.
Restaurants around Healdsburg: in town there are a number of good places, depending on your budget. For lunch, consider getting sandwiches, etc., for a picnic at Oakville Grocery (right on the Square). If you want to try some good Mexican food, try the little place right across the street from Oakville Grocery. For dinner, Dry Creek Kitchen is excellent. Cyrus is supposedly outstanding (though pricey). Ravenous has a very good rep. If you are willing to drive a few miles out of Healdsburg, my personal favorites are Mirepoix in Windsor, and The Farmhouse Inn out along River Road, west and north of Santa Rosa (www.farmhouseinn.com). Mirepoix is a remodeled old house, with maybe 10 tables, very cozy and romantic. All have excellent wine lists, and will help you find something you like in your price range (and all will allow BYOB for a corkage fee). Dry Creek Kitchen allows any Sonoma County wine to be brought in (I believe that's it, maybe just Russian River area) for free as long as it's not on their list.
Getting from Healdsburg to St. Helena: There are several ways to do this. The easiest is to head to Alexander Valley Rd (Highway 128), and south into Napa Valley. 128 essentially forms a triangle with 101 at the head of the two valleys. Another route is to go south on 101 a few miles, then take Mark West road to the east to Petrified Forest Rd, across the hills dividing Sonoma and Napa counties. This has some curves, but is a relatively tame road, not too difficult on your passenger. A third route is Calistoga Rd/Spring Mountain Rd farther south still, branching off Hwy 12 to the southeast of Santa Rosa. Probably not much reason to do this, except that there is an excellent winery at the very top of the mountain: Pride Mountain, well worth a stop for their Cabernet (as well as Merlot and Chardonnay). If it is a clear day, the views are spectacular from this 2000+ ft vineyard/winery site. You need an appointment to go here, and they are closed Tuesdays. Appointment is no problem to get, it is only a formality because of their winery license.
Napa Valley: From St. Helena there are dozens of wineries to choose from. There are two major roads running the length of the valley, Hwy 29 on the west side, and Silverado Trail on the east (separated by a mile or less most of the way, Silverado tends to be much less crowded if you're trying to travel some distance north-south). See the map on this site, which has links to all the wineries: www.napavintners.com I spend much less time in Napa Valley these days, but it is a beautiful place with lots to do and see. There are many smaller wineries and "cult" wineries you could try to visit, but frankly there are enough very fine larger wineries to keep you busy, and less stressed with getting and meeting appointments. Unfortunately, most of the wineries charge for tasting, although you can always try to sweet talk them with your honeymoon thing
My first recommendation would be to go to Chateau Montelena, an old winery that was brought back to post-prohibition life about 35-40 years ago. They now charge for tasting, but most of the big Napa wineries do, and this one is worth it. Consider doing the tour if you have the time, though it may take longer than you want, and you will need advance reservations. Montelena makes one of the finest Cabernets in Napa Valley for my tastes (though it is not in the big "cult" style more common among the newest producers). Montelena is outside of Calistoga, north of St. Helena (about a 10 minute drive, if that).
Joseph Phelps is another winery I would recommend, for both the quality of the wines and tasting, and scenery. They have several different possibilities for tasting, check out their web site. Phelps is off Silverado, to the east from St Helena. www.jpvwines.com
Stags Leap Wine Cellars: farther south off Silverado. This is the winery that produced the winning Cabernet in the original '76 Paris tasting. I just happened to have one of their 04 Cabs the other night at dinner, and it was very nice. www.cask23.com
Shafer: Also down south off Silverado (though a bit tricky to find). Very good wines, beautiful location. www.shafervineyards.com
Otherwise, just cruise up and down 29/Silverado, and stop where you feel like it. Mumm is a nice stop (on Silverado, mid-valley) for their Sparkling wines, and if you have any interest in fine photography they have an excellent fine print exhibit (which right now is a terrific Ansel Adams collection). No charge for the gallery. I would probably avoid the biggest wineries, like Mondavi, Beringer, Beaulieu, you won't get any kind of personal service here. Though the wineries I've listed above are large enough, they are still privately owned, and seem to do a good job of providing a good experience for visitors. V. Sattui that was mentioned above is a very popular picnic spot. I've never actually gone in there, but they apparently are well known for their high end food deli. A few other wineries I wouldn't hesitate to stop at: Peju, Flora Springs (just a tasting room at the south end of St Helena, next to the fancy Dean & Deluca deli/wine shop).
Napa Valley restaurants: this is food heaven, there are so many great restaurants to choose from. In the "affordable" range, my first choice would be Martini House in St Helena. Then you have many to choose from: Wappo Bar & Grill in Calistoga (www.wappobar.com), Bouchon in Yountville, Tra Vigne in St Helena, Mustard's Grill in Yountville, Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen inSt. Helena. If you want to go really high end (leaving out French Laundry, which will be nearly impossible to get into, and will run you $200+ each), there is La Toque (Rutherford), Auberge du Soleil Restaurant, (Rutherford), and one or two others. Unless you guys are really into food, the $$$ are too much for my blood.
San Francisco: Too many restaurants to count. Here are some I know first hand, or have impecable reputations (I just copied/pasted part of a list from my notes):
Chapeau
1408 Clement St
(Clement @ 15th)
415.750.9787
Acquerello
415-567-5432
1722 Sacramento Street
San Francisco
www.acquerello.com
Very fancy Italian, quiet, elegant dining room, no view.
Hawthorne Lane
Bacar
Boulevard
Indigo
415-673-9353
687 Mc Allister St.
(between Gough & Franklin)
San Francisco
T-Su 5:30 - 11 pm
www.indigorestaurant.com
Jardiniere
415-861-5555
300 Grove St
Beautiful room, great ambience, excellent food
www.jardiniere.com
Cafe Jacqueline
415-981-5565
1454 Grant Ave. in North Beach
If you want intimacy, try Cafe Jacqueline. One of the most romantic restaurants in the city. Very small, mostly souffles (you pick out the ingredients, like crab and leeks, incredible chocolate souffle for dessert)
The above are relatively affordable. You can again go higher end for more $$$ at places like Fifth Floor, Elisabeth Daniel, Gary Danko, Aqua.
Please feel free to ask any specific questions you think of. Hope you have a great time!
Cheers,
Alan
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KMP
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Alan has pretty much nailed it. All I can add is a site for Napa that has a neat map (scroll down the page to find it) that you can zoom into to see where individual vineyards are, and clicking on the winery will open up their site - its not a complete listing however. You can print a map that is quite a bit more complete.
There is a similar site for Sonoma with a printable map. Plus Sonoma Wine also has maps etc. The Russian River Wine Road also has a site.
Enjoy,
Mike
There is a similar site for Sonoma with a printable map. Plus Sonoma Wine also has maps etc. The Russian River Wine Road also has a site.
Enjoy,
Mike
One more thing, be prepared for some traffic in a few places. Particularly the 101 stretch through the center of Santa Rosa, which can get pretty slow in morning and afternoon rush hour. The routes from the Bay Area up to Sonoma/Napa can get pretty nasty as well, depending on time of day and direction; take that into account in planning your travel, especially getting back to the airport.
Cheers,
Alan
Cheers,
Alan
Just a note to Alan and others who responded, the tips have been very helpful. Currently staying in Healdsburg and have done the rounds of a few good Russian River vineyards. There are so many wineries here, it is RIDICULOUS!!!
Cheers
Wayno
Give me the luxuries of life and I will willingly do without the necessities.
Wayno
Give me the luxuries of life and I will willingly do without the necessities.