TNs:Egly,Prum,Chev Blanc,Yquem,Chablis,JRiddoch,TBA,Henschke

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Baby Chickpea
Posts: 582
Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2004 12:17 pm

TNs:Egly,Prum,Chev Blanc,Yquem,Chablis,JRiddoch,TBA,Henschke

Post by Baby Chickpea »

A fantastic night put on by DLole at his place in Canberra on Saturday night. He supplied 9 of the wines himself, cooked up several courses, and accommodated us. A huge thanks to David, and his wife and two daughters who allowed us to roam around their house and put up with us! Thanks also to our erstwhile chauffeur Neval Blanc, Cam and Anjuli and The Mayor (who is looking super slim!). A bloody brilliant night. :D

1977 Seppelt Keppoch Rhine [sic] Riesling (Padthaway)
11.5%. Mid gold. Complex melange of butterscotch, vanilla, honey, primary lemons. Palate is very Semillon-like, with just a bit of excess acid poking through on the finish. Good length and still retains zesty fruit characters. Exceptional condition, outstanding wine.
90 / 100

1988 Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsuler (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)
7.5%. Deep gold. Rich honey and burnt apricots, with an eggy finish. Perhaps lacks a little finesse and complexity. Palate is moderately sweet (lacking intensity) unlike the nose. Bit short due to fruit dilution. Developing caramelised flavours suggesting on decline. Still very nice, but pretty much one-dimensionally sweet.
88 / 100

2000 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
13%. Light straw. Rich and powerful pears, minerals, slate, seaweed. Really bloody good. Palate has excellent structure, fine chalky acidity providing the backbone and is quite dry. Outstanding wine that needs time, at least 5-8 years.
91 / 100

1996 Egly-Ouriet Brut Grand Cru Millésime Champagne
12.5%. Disgorged September 2004. 87 months on lees. Light gold. Reeks of brioche, aldehydes, toast, and a touch of sulphur. Very oxidative style. Fabulous length that goes on and on. Mature yet fresh. Much more developed than any other 1996 champagne I have had and would prefer a little more racy acidity. Gorgeous wine, but perfect drinking now and over next few years. Cannot see this improving much, especially against the equally brilliant NV Ugly-Idiot Blanc de Noirs.
94 / 100

1997 Domaine François Raveneau Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre Chablis
13%. Mid straw. Nose slightly mute, but with time revealed margarine, unripe grapefruit, lanolin, all of which predominate. Very, very eggy too which put me off. Palate is elegant, soft and mature, with little residual acid. After 15 minutes, palate was like a lemon sherbet bomb! Youthful and acidic, and not on par with the Fevre.
87 / 100

1995 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Chaumes
13%. Mid red, with hints of brown, but clarity of colour. Bouquet has ripe raspberries, is stalky and youthful still. Palate is unbalanced by obvious acidity that makes the wine seem grippy (noticeable tannins too), short and broad.
85 / 100

1982 Château Le Gay (Pomerol)
Mid red. Great colour. Beautiful nose, full of fartiness, wood and evolved fruit. Palate drinking very well, balanced and punching well above its weight. This wine is all about texture, and I love Pomerols for this every reason. Outstanding wine with many years to go.
91 / 100

1985 Château Cheval Blanc (St.-Emilion)
Mid red, but lighter than the previous Le Gay. Much fleshier than the Le Gay too. Bouquet is exotic and sexy with lovely perfume and a creamy, espresso nose with a touch of earth that is beguiling. Palate is all class and textbook stuff: lovely structure, fine tannins augment the long length, spicy cassis. Just a beautiful wine, with many years to go and showing no signs of decline. One of the best 1985s I have had, with impeccable balance. Equal WOTN with the Egly-Ouriet.
94 / 100

1988 Château Rayas Chateauneuf-du-Pape
14%. Jinxed nose of liquorice, roasted nuts, caramel, spicy blackcurrants. Palate is all sweet molasses, thick and unctuous. Not sure what to make of this. A couple thought bacterial spoilage but to me the wine was cooked, given the heightened stewed flavours. Still drinkableÂ…just.
84 / 100

1982 Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz (Eden Valley)
Light red. Far too bretty for me! Worse compost aromas then the Rayas! Noticeable A/V heat on the nose too. Palate shows fresh, ripe fruit, vanilla oak, Penfolds-type style and red fruits. Very good no doubt, and better than the 1984 and 1987 Mount Edelstones I had last year.
88 / 100

1982 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon
Believe it or not, one of those wines that I was destined to have never tried as it always seemed to avoid me! But thanks to DLole’s generosity….finally!!!! Nose far too green and capsicum. With some A/V. Palate is short, tannic and lacking wow. Not a lot of fruit evident and the memory remains of a green and stalky Coonawarra – so typical of the 1980s. I hope one day I get a great bottle of this, but at the moment this is not even a shadow on the sensational 1986 John Riddoch.
84 / 100

1981 Château d’Yquem (Sauternes)
Deep gold. Spicy marmalade and vanilla bean on the nose. Palate is rich and chewy, with dried apricots. Balance is torpedoed by bitter finish that leaves a resin-like taste in mouth. Not bad for the year.
90 /100

1994 Dr. H. Thanisch Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling-Trockenbeerenauslese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)
9%. 375ml bottle. Amazing burnt orange colour! Incredibly intoxicating and rich nose that makes the d’Yquem appear anaemic! Honey galore, clean acid, lovely length, very advanced already. Luscious and indulgent wine – almost, very much almost too much of a good thing. What makes this wine short of great is that it scampers very close to cloying, requiring a touch more acidity to provide the balance. Still outstanding, resplendent wine.
93 / 100

NV Penfolds Great Grandfather Fine Old Liqueur Limited Release 2 Tawny Port
19%. Whoa! Tawny brown/orange hues. Massive wood, heat and shrill, complex flavours swirl round the palate and bouquet. Very walnutty, powerful and aggressive. Too much so. Very idiosyncratic, akin to a liqueured 1971 Grange!
86 / 100

Menu

Fruits of the Summer au naturale

A duo of grilled Sydney Rock Oysters – Kilpatrick and Thai

Steamed Banana Prawns wrapped in Smoked Tasmanian Salmon filled with sour cream, chives and a dash of tabasco over a mescalin salad with capers, red onion and topped with slivers of ripe avocado doused in extra virgin avocado oil and lemon juice.

Medallions of marinated char grilled prime Beef Eye Fillet atop baked spiced eggplant served with roasted vegetables and a Turkish Coban salad.

A Selection of fine Cheeses

The MayorÂ’s (now even more famous) Bread and Butter Pudding

Coffee and Bruno's Truffles
Danny

The voyage of discovery lies not in finding new landscapes but in having new eyes. We must never be afraid to go too far, for success lies just beyond - Marcel Proust

User avatar
Craig(NZ)
Posts: 3246
Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2003 3:12 pm
Location: New Zealand

Post by Craig(NZ) »

The absolute best way to have wine, at home with a well planned meal and good friends - sounds like a stellar night

dlo
Posts: 860
Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2005 6:11 pm
Location: Canberra

Post by dlo »

Couldn't agree with your sentiment more, Craig! :wink:

My fuzzy memory notes follow for members/reader's interest/palate calibration.

Neval Blanc, Baby Chickpea, Cam and Anjuli drove down from Sydney yesterday for dinner at my place. A trim and fit looking Mayor also graced us with his presence with some terrific fare tucked under his arm to lighten my workload later in the night.

Some brilliant wines were opened. Others underperformed compared to recent showings.

An excellent night.

Seppelt Keppoch Riesling 1977 - an incredibly fresh Riesling with that belied its considerable age. Beautiful mix of freshness limey fruit with alluring complex bottle-aged characters, seemingly with some petrol in the tank to go a while longer. Excellent.

Joh Joh Prum M-S-R Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese (Gold Capsule) 1988 - far more developed than I was expecting. Very Good only. A major disappointment FWISB.

William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2000 - opened with some cheesiness/seaweedy/briney pond water but improved dramatically in the glass. Typical Chablis flinty/chalky characters with statuesque structure. Requires 5-10 years to be fully appreciated. Seriously good wine.

Egly-Ouriet 1996 Vintage - oxidative apricot nose at first that got better with a good time in the glass. Developed, powerful, less oxidative palate holding a great line, focus and purity. Terrific length. Drink over the next cuppla years. Outstanding, but ready.

Francois Ravaneau Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre 1997 - muted nose and quite a soft, underwhelming palate. A slightly offputting curried egg component dropped this disappointment to merely Good. Pass. Previous bottle I opened was a lot better.

Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Charmes 1995 - excellent colour, wonderful multifaceted bouquet but the palate was disjointed with hard, chalky tannins dominating some stalky fruit and spoiling all the early promise. Overall, about Very Good, but difficult to recommend for the lack of congruity between nose and palate.

Ch. Le Gay (Pomerol) 1982 - an Outstanding example in terrific form. Great poise, balance, fully mature, although in no sign of decline. Held up in the glass very well indeed. Good for another 5 -10 years

Cheval Blanc 1985 - Exceptional! Several notches above the previous wine. Fleshy, full of blood, cedar and a wealth of gorgeous black fruits. Incredible structure and amazing delineation on the palate. What a class act! Drink any time over the next 10 - 15 years.

Ch. Rayas C-D-P Reserve 1988 - Bacterial spoilage has completely ruined this wine. Cam and Danny should be congratulated on their persistence in trying to find something positive here. NR

Henschke Mt. Edelestone 1982 - Fully mature, soft and sweet red fruits, lots of mocha, leather and complex tertiary character. Old school Aussie style. I liked this a lot. Very Good.

Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 1982 - Quite cedary, green and herbaceous, lacking any of the greatness of the last bottle I opened recently. Still quite fresh but hard going and a little foursquare and tough on the palate. Hard to get excited when the last one was so freakin' good. Very Good only on last night's performance. Footnote - We left some in the decanter overnight and to my surprise was not only intact this morning exhibiting far more blackcurrant/plummy sweetness on the nose to counterbalance the Bordeaux-ish cedary/herby notes. Couldn't stomach drinking any, though.

Ch. D'Yquem 1981 - very sound, Excellent effort from a relatively weak vintage. Some bitterness in the finish my only criticism.

Dr. Thanisch Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 1994 - 375 ml - hazy, incredibly dark burnished copper/gold colour. Fascinating powerful unctuous, almost OTT bouquet and similarly rivetting fully blown palate just kept in check by necessary cleansing acidity. With the '85 Cheval Blanc got equal top billing on my scorecard for the night. Surreal experience drinking this bugger.

Penfolds Great Grandfather Tawny Port (Series 2) - Highly volatile, alcoholic nose and palate. A lot of fire and bulk rancio here. Last one I opened was pretty similar at first, settling down and smoothing right out after 24 hours.

Thanking everyone for their contributions and great company.
Cheers,

David

User avatar
Rob
Posts: 259
Joined: Sun Sep 21, 2003 5:52 pm
Location: Sydney

Post by Rob »

Thanks guys for the great note. sounds like a top night.
Cheers
Rob
"The red liquid circulating in my body is actually red wine, not blood."

camw
Posts: 443
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2004 4:00 pm
Contact:

Post by camw »

I finally got around to writing these up. As far as I can recall, all except the D'Yquem and Penfolds Great Grandfather were served blind. This was a brilliant night, thank you to all for their extreme generosity.

1977 Seppelt Keppoch "Rhine" Riesling
Light golden in colour. The nose is nice, still exhibits vibrancy but also the secondary aged characters - very waxy as well as butter, toast, lemon rind and some nuttiness. Acid is still there, propping up the palate, exhibits good length but perhaps lacks a bit of depth to take this to brilliance.
91/100

1988 Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldcapsule
Orange marmalade coloured. Nose shows peaches, apricot, honey, marmalade and some slate. The palate has plenty of sweetness and while it is not over the top, it feels like the acid isn't quite there to balance things out. Good, but looked a bit tired based on this bottle.
87/100

2000 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
A little bit of sulphur initially that mostly blew off quickly in the glass. Has a tight nose - some pear, lime, minerals and a dab of aged cheese. The palate is super lovely, with precision and focus driving towards the finish that is of exceptional length. Superb structure and greater rewards will come with patience.
93/100

1996 Egly-Ouriet Brut Grand Cru Millésime Champagne
This wine was showing a fine bead with good mousse. Has a rich and powerful nose of brioche, toast, yeast and some oxidative characters. To me, the palate is almost the opposite, exhibiting great freshness and zing, with awesome length and depth of flavour. I suspect it is drinking close to its peak already, no need to hold onto this before enjoying it.
93/100

1997 Domaine François Raveneau Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre Chablis
A tight, somewhat mute nose which started to open up a bit to show quite a bit of sulphur as well as soap, lemons and bananas. Palate is rather restrained as well. This bottle probably didn't have the structure to come out of the other side of whatever rut it was in.
87/100

1995 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes
There was just a hint of browning around the edges of this wine. The nose seems quite nice, stalks, pepper, blood and cherry. The palate is rather a let down though after the complex nose, out of balance acid and tannins smothering other elements. Shows some flavour intensity on the mid-palate but then finishes short.
86/100

1982 Château Le Gay
A great vibrant youthful red hue. Nose shows aromas of tobacco, cedar, well integrated oak, plums, chocolate and blackcurrant. A very elegant palate with lovely balance and length. Drinking superbly now, but in no danger of falling over soon.

Danny said on the night that the wine was worth 90 points, but the very nice label would probably take it up to 92, he must have averaged them out ;)
92/100

1985 Château Cheval Blanc
The first thing I wrote was "A complete step up in class from the previous wine". The Le Gay was lovely, but this was totally magnificent!

A superbly layered, lifted, complex nose of tobacco, coffee, earth, liquorice, cherry, raspberry and fresh thyme and rosemary. Has an entrancing, completely seductive palate with flawless structure and balance. Brilliant, endless length. Somebody help me, I'm running out of superlatives. Well stored bottles that survive the cork lottery will surely live for decades.

I think I liked this more than others at the table, but this was pretty much my favourite wine I've ever had. I'm glad I tasted this blind, because to be honest I might not have let myself enjoy it so much otherwise.
98/100

1988 Château Rayas Reserve Chateauneuf-du-Pape
A nose of olives, leather, nail polish, roast vegetables, sizzling bacon fat and burnt toast. To be honest, my description of the nose doesn't accurately describe just how terrible it was. The palate was drinkable but stripped of any likeable characters - thin and acidic. I left a half glass for a number of hours, trying to coax something to like out of this, but in the end had to give up the cause as hopeless.
80/100

1982 Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz
Very youthful colour with no signs of browning. Nose has aromas of smoke, raw meat and some bretty notes. Lots of sweet red fruit on the well balanced palate.
89/100

1982 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon
Deep youthful violet colour. Nose that conveys essence of capsicum as well as some roast vegetables, cedar, stalky green notes and tobacco. Palate seems harsh and a bit short. Not at all like the superb bottle that we had at Acca Decca a month later, but thank you anyway David.
87/100

1981 Château d’Yquem
Mid-golden colour. A fairly typical (in my experience) medium intensity Sauternes nose of botrytis, apricot, honey and marmalade. A rich palate, with good acid structure but bitterness on the back-palate ruins the finish. Nice, but I probably didn't like it quite enough to buy for my birth-year drinking.
91/100

1994 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling-Trockenbeerenauslese
I thought it was German TBA straight away, but imagine my surprise when options veered to 1980's Australia. wild stabbing in the dark ensued until the deceit was unveiled ;)

A deep golden-orange colour. Has an intense nose of honey, spice, slate and caramel. Very intense sweetness on the palate which dominates the acid just slightly. For me, more interest and complexity than the D'Yquem. This was ready, willing and able to be consumed now and in the near future.
95/100

NV Penfolds Great Grandfather Grand Old Liqueur Limited Release 2 Tawny Port
A generous gesture by David at the end of the evening to open this for us. A complex, intense nose of roasted walnuts, oak, caramel, toffee, rancio and raisins as well as some initial alcoholic heat. The front of the palate lacks balance with alcohol and oak dominating - still has a very nice rich texture to it as well as shrugging off the imbalance at the mid-palate stage and shows a 30+ second finish.
92/100

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