1999 Wendouree Shiraz/Malbec

[Alan Rath]

Wendouree seems to be one of those under-the-radar cult wines that I see talked about here, but almost never written up in the major wine publications or review journals - and it is as rare as hen's teeth here in the States. So when I had the chance to buy a few bottles up here I took the plunge. Having never tried any wine from this producer, I decided to pop one to see how it matches my tastes, and chose this 99 Shiraz/Malbec:

Dark, opaque garnet in color; big, brooding, chewy, restrained like a tiger in a cage just large enough for him to turn around. The fruit just barely pokes its head out, with substantial but very refined tannins. Whatever oak is used in the elevage of this wine is unnoticed here, and the mint/eucalypt I've been warned about isn't apparent at all. This is unlike any Australian wine I've had: if Latour made Shiraz, this is how I imagine it would taste. I don't know if it's the vineyard, climate, choice of picking time, or something else that is done differently, this is a unique wine. A little hard to drink and judge right now, I'm pretty sure it will develop into something I'll really like some years down the road. Although there are quite a few Shiraz I still like, I much prefer this style to many of the massively ripe and over-oaked wines that are coming to the U.S. these days, although it clearly requires much patience. I picked the 99 because I assumed it would be a "worst case" (and because I didn't want to sacrifice a 98 ).

Regards,
Alan

[Red Bigot]

Alan,

Interesting note, glad you liked the wine. I'm surprised you didn't get a bit of eucalypt/menthol, but the shiraz blends probably have less of it than the others.

The Wendourees seem to be going out of favour in some circles in Oz, especially amongst those whose palates are tending more to french wines these days (so your Latour comment is intriguing), check out *Forum for a few threads with many trashing the Wendourees.

I have a lot of Wendourees in my cellar (back to 90 vintage, mostly Shiraz and CabpMalbec, but some Cabernet and Shiraz blends), not too many of them ready to drink yet though. Next week I'm going to a tasting organised by a friend featuring the 12 Wendouree Shiraz from 1990 - 2001, should be an interesting one.

[JamieBahrain]

I must say, the critism RB alludes to peeves me off somewhat.

The Australian wine industry is adolescent like, with changing fads and wine styles, and few time honoured traditions.

Wendouree has tradition, which should be embraced, or at least, be in receipt of some respect. I have noted some posters slagging off at young Wendouree wines, yet being highly impressed by new and unproven wineries, regions and styles- of which, when the wine is beyond the seductive, just bottled, new oak and primary fruit stage, often has little to offer.

You all need a few bottles of Wendouree in your cellar. And with the premium wine glut, now may be a good time to get a few bottles with a decade on them from auction.

[Attila]

I must say that I am "over" Wendouree by now but in the 90's I used to collect them.
Interestingly I was offered the 2003 Shiraz Malbec blind this week. First I thought it was a mid level Bordeaux as it was highly polished and MODERN with restrained oak and this level of approachable clean pure fruit I NEVER used to encounter in a Wendouree. I liked it because it was pure and intelligent winemaking, according to Adair, the new direction at this estate since 2001. Wasn't highly alcoholic either at 13.2 % vol. Good wine but one stop short of being great.

Cheers,
Attila

[GraemeG]

I liked it because it was pure and intelligent winemaking, according to Adair, the new direction at this estate since 2001. Wasn't highly alcoholic either at 13.2 % vol. Good wine but one stop short of being great.

Cheers,
Attila

I have a small run of Wendouree in my cellar, but those are typical alcohol levels. Have Wendouree ever made a wine over 14%?

cheers,
Graeme

[Red Bigot]

Yes! The fortified white.

A quick check of the red bottles I could easily get to revealed a maximum of 13.8%.

[Attila]

I was actually referring to the "hotly alcoholic finish" in some older Wendouree's rather than the actual alcohol levels. With the 2003 it was absolutely controlled. I've drunk a few Clare's recently and the mainstream hot finish was evident in many wines from Taylor's to Knappstein, however the 2003 Wendouree tasted like a genuine cool climate wine which greatly surprised me.
Cheers,
Attila

[Red Bigot]

I was actually referring to the "hotly alcoholic finish" in some older Wendouree's rather than the actual alcohol levels. With the 2003 it was absolutely controlled. I've drunk a few Clare's recently and the mainstream hot finish was evident in many wines from Taylor's to Knappstein, however the 2003 Wendouree tasted like a genuine cool climate wine which greatly surprised me.
Cheers,
Attila

Another case of different perceptions of alcohol heat by various people. I've tasted just about every Wendouree red at release for about the last 17 years and many others with varying amounts of age and I can honestly say I've never perceived any alcohol heat on the finish.

I seldom find unenjoyable alcoholic heat in wines that others do, at least not in wines that I find have the fruit and structure to balance high alcohol, a little warmth on the finish is Ok by me in a big red, I don't class that as "hot". My long-time indulgence in neat Armagnac and Single Malts may have something to do with it, maybe not.

I do agree with Adair that the style seems to have changed a little in recent vintages, with the fierce tannins tamed a bit and a touch more fruit evident at release, potentially making the wines more approachable without as much long-term cellaring as past vintages.