Wines of the Year

[Neville K]

Another wonderful year for wine which for me started off spectacularly with a celebratory weekend of Giaconda verticals, fascinating offlines and dinners like the PWS Burghound Dinner at Circa, Randall's Bordeaux First Growths 2002 Dinner, Domaine Leroy lunch etc and ending the year with a Bass Phillip 20 year dinner. Leaving aside the world's finest, I am more interested in the punters' views on new release vaguely affordable wines. Philip Rich, Tim White, Jeremy Oliver, Campbell Mattison and James Halliday have recently published theirs.

Here is my list:

Jacquesson 729 First tasted as a prelude to Dom Leroy, I thought it wonderful, but was it reflected glory? Since had it 3-4 times and this cuvée rockets straight into the top tier of NV Champagne on par with Louis Roederer, Billecart Salmon and Bollinger. Fine, elegant, intense. Cannot recommend it too highly.

Riesling
Another great year for Riesling and we are spoilt for choice: highlights
Crawford River 2004 Crisp, intense and packed with flavour. This is a wonderful Rhine styled Riesling.

Leo Buring Leonay 2005 My pick of the Eden Valley. Slatey, minerally and linear. Great structure. Fabo.

Mitchell 2005 Arguably shaded by Seppelts Drumborg 2005, Mesh 2005 and Petaluma Hanlin Hill 2005, (very little between them in quality terms, only style preferences separate) but when one accounts for the bargain price this represents stunning value for money. This wine has provenance with assured cellaring potential. Lovely minerality and persistence.

Philip Rich nailed it in the Fin Review. If there is a great deal of overlap in my choices and his it is probably as a result of some of the great tastings hosted by the Prince which wine store stands as a beacon of quality and service. Great tastings, masterclasses and dinners always replete with Riedel Chianti stemware. The depth of knowledge is second to none. Special mention should also be made of Randall's similar qualities.

Chardonnay
Bindi Quartz Chardonnay 2004
This is one sophisticated top tier Aussie chardonnay which bears more than a nod to Chablis in style and direction. Racy, slatey, long and explosive. Jeremy Oliver regarded Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2002 as his wine of the year terming it a 'stellar wine'. Side by side, and as good and rich and complex as the Leeuwin is, the Bindi Quartz was a significant step up leaving the Leeuwin looking a lovely old fashioned wine in comparison.

Mt Mary Chardonnay 2004
The wine of the Mount Mary Release and one of the finest since 1987.
Again a very French style with lanolin, minerals and controlled power.

Pinot Noir
Very promising pinots have emerged from Mornington Peninsula in 2003, but be careful in generalisations as some 'cool climate' pinots from this hot year verge on Dry Red rather than pinot noir. 2004 may well evolve to be more classical.

Bannockburn Serre Pinot Noir 2000
Langtons Classification tasting at the Prince highlighted just how good this wine is. Nothwithstanding the steep price this represents pinnacle Australian pinot noir and given the quality it is fair value.

Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2003
Despite the controversy this wine engendered at the Stonier's International Pinot Noir Tasting in Sydney, (I wasn't there). I thought this was all class. No smoke and mirrors: a very pretty long wine and representative of why Ata Rangi is one of the twin towers of NZ pinot along with Felton Road.

Moorooduc Estate - The Moorooduc Pinot Noir 2003
In the history of modern music there is a famous quote (1974) from Rolling Stone journalist, John Landau who later became Springsteen's manager... Not that I particularly endorse Springsteen, but it is a good line.

"Still, today, if I hear a record I like it is no longer a signal for me to seek out every other that the artist has made. I take them as they come, love them, and leave them. Some have stuck -- a few that come quickly to mind are Neil Young's After the Goldrush...- but many more slip through the mind, making much fainter impressions than their counterparts of a decade ago.

But tonight there is someone I can write of the way I used to write, without reservations of any kind. Last Thursday, at the Harvard Square theatre, I saw my rock'n'roll past flash before my eyes. And I saw something else: I saw rock and roll future and its name is Bruce Springsteen. And on a night when I needed to feel young, he made me feel like I was hearing music for the very first time."

Today, I saw the future of Australian pinot noir ( no, not really, just vintage 2003), and its name is The Moorooduc 2003. Forget Stonier's Reserve, forget any Paringa; remember one duck label that Rory picked a long time before: Moorooduc, not the Estate, but The Moorooduc- a plush, ripe, incredibly complex amalgam of forest aromas and dark berries; a seductive soft whisper that hints of sex in a bottle. 2003 Mornington is to be reckoned with and if anything beats this I'd like to know about it. For the price this delivers big time. All things considered...My wine of the Year.


Bass Phillip Premium Pinot Noir 2004
Just been botlled. Straight out of the blocks this is poles apart from the dessicated 2003. This is beautiful wine and a great example from Australia's finest producer. It is bright, round, long with cool berries. It will evolve in time to be something special.

Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2003
I tried to keep the list Australasian, but special mention should go to this ripper Italian producer whose range of reds especially the stunning Cepparello bears repeating.
Immediately attractive. Lovely savouriness and controlled velvety texture. Very elegant. A cracker. Long, beguiling length. It just comes in waves pulsating over the palate. How good.

Voyager Estate Cabernet Merlot 2001
From the great 2001 Margaret River vintage this wine is plush, round, and riveting. This represents exceptional value and will develop to rival the 1998 of this marque which is knocking on the door of the elite level of Margaret River cabernets.

Cape Mentelle Cabernet 2001
In the 1980's Cape Mentelle shot to prominence with the back to back 1982-1983 Jimmy Watson Awards, but has in recent years shown indifferent form and Devil's Lair, Voyager Estate, Woodlands have usually delivered far better, quite apart from Cullens and Moss Wood in another league.
However, 2001 is a thundering return to form. Class act, this one. A six pack buy.

Seppelts St Peters Shiraz 2003
Light elegant colour; spicy dark fruits, sour cherry, aniseed, lovely sweet fruit married with a vevety astringent finish. Too easy. The real deal. Stacks up well against top flight Hermitage as was found at the Seppelts St Peters Masterclass conducted by winemaker Arthur O'Connor at the Southcorp roadshow.


Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2004
Louie and Rick walk off into the fog to start their beautiful friendship in Casablanca with the famous tag "round up the usual suspects". One may be forgiven that Clonakilla SV is a lazy entry; a default on best of lists- one of the usual suspects along with Giaconda Chardonnay and Grosset Polish Hill Riesling. But there is a reason for this cliché: quite possibly this is one of the best, if not the best wine in Australia and is destined on current form to be an icon rival to Grange. Big statement, I know, but if Clonakilla was a share one would be buying it by the bucket loads as the upside potential is almost unlimited.
What can I say that hasn't already been said before: Velvety, seamless, perfectly balanced. Very sophisticated.

Winery of the Year
Hoddles Creek
With a rebadged label this winery delivers exceptional value across the range. Maybe the 2004 Chardonnay will be better than the highly vaunted 2003 which shot the producer to prominence. There is no dud in the range and the 2004 Pinot represents stunning value for money. $17 unbelievable. I only wish they made a sangiovese.

Merry Christmas everyone and may you drink well.

Neville k

[Mike Hawkins]

I know I'll have forgotten some, but at this time of night, these are the ones I recall:-

Champagne - dead heat between 90 Krug and 96 Dom Perignon. Both superb, albeit in completely different ways;

Riesling - 2002 Grosset Watervale

Chardonnay - 2001 LEAS

Semillon - alas, all back in the cellar in Oz, so none.

Pinot Noir - I really WANT to like this variety, but just can't bring myself to ! At a pinch, I'd pick 2002 Ata Rangi

Cabernet (and blend) - 1990 Pichon Lalande, 1989 Lafite (I'm glad it was not a Parker favourite, as its only really expensive instead of outrageously expensive !)

Shiraz / Syrah - another dead heat between 1986 Henschke Mt Edelstone and 1990 Chapoutier Le Pavillon (great and with years in front of it). The 99 Wolf Blass Platinum Label was just a tick behind.

WOTY - toss a coin - Mt Ed or Le Pavillon

[Andrew Jordan]

For me, the following convinced me that I STILL do not have enough quality wine in my cellar:

Sparkling Red - NV Rockford Black with the Joseph second

Cabernet/Cabernet Blend- 2001 Moss Wood followed by the 2001 Voyager Cabernet/Merlot

Shiraz - 2002 Run Rig with the 2003 Schubert Goose-yard coming second.

Grenache - 2002 Les Amis followed closely by the 2003 Kalleske Old Vine



WOTY - Shiraz the big winner here .... 2002 Run Rig with most affordable being 2003 Schubert Goose-yard

Winery of the Year - Seppelt

[Craig(NZ)]

Ok my major varietal/wine type wines of the year - all of these wines were drunk in a social setting with plenty of time to consider the merits of each, not just snap tasted.

Pinot Noir - 1996 Martinborough Vineyards Reserve Pinot Noir

Cabernet and Blends - 1998 Te Mata Coleraine Cabernet Merlot

Merlot and blends - This is a toss up between 2002 Unison Selection and 2000 CJ Pask Reserve Merlot

Shiraz - 1998 Jasper Hill Georgias Paddock

Chardonnay - 1997 Neudorf Moutere

Sauvignon Blanc - 2004 Jackson Estate

Riesling - 2005 Fromm La Strada (yet to be released)

Sparkling - NV Tattinger

Sweet - 2001 Ch Suidaraut Sauternes

Overall winner - 1996 Martinborough Vineyards Reserve Pinot Noir. An absolutely sensational bottle (carefully cellared at 12oC since release) of one of this countries greatest pinot noirs. Perfect in every respect, astonishingly seductive, highly complex, silky, varietal, and showing extraordinary breed and class. Head and shoulders above any of the 100++ nz pinots ive tried this year, at the peak of its powers.



C

[Adair]

Gee guys, there is still 1/24th of the year to go, and I still most definitely have some serious wines to open and taste, including a big evening this Saturday night. Nonetheless, the 1996 Cristal will be hard to beat.

Adair

[Mike Hawkins]

AJ, thanks for the prompt. I knew I'd forget something. The 2002 Run Rig is the best young Aussie shiraz I've tried in a few years.

[Chow Chow]

Platinum Shiraz 2002, this is how a Grange 98 would taste like 10 yrs down the road.

[Rob]

White - 1988 Dom
Red - 1976 Burgundy Grand Cru (can't remember the name)
Sweet - 1999 d'Yquem

[Max]

Repeat post for the benefit of Auswiners! Off the top of my head, favourite wines released throughout the year (listed by category) that I've had the pleasure of tasting!

First is the outright best wine of the year, second is best value wine of the year...

Cabernet sauvignon
Best: Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (Great Southern, Margaret River)
Best value: Ashbrook Cabernet Merlot 2000 (Margaret River)

Shiraz
Best: Balthazar of the Barossa 2002 (Barossa) / Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz 2000 (Barossa) / Saltram No 1 2001 (Barossa)
Best value: Yalumba Y Series Shiraz Viognier (South Australia)

Pinot Noir
Best: Moss Wood Pinot Noir 2003 (Margaret River)
Best value: Hoddles Creek Pinot Noir 2004 (Yarra Valley)

Sauvignon Blanc
Best and best value: Jacob's Creek Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2005

Chardonnay
Best: Penfolds Bin 03A Chardonnay (multi sourced)
Best value: Moombaki Chardonnay 2004 (Great Southern) (this incredibly long, tight and focussed chardonnay is a must-taste wine)

Riesling
Best: Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2005 (Victoria)
Best value: MadFish Riesling 2005 (Great Southern)

Put this list together in a rush before heading out for lunch, but looking at it now, I'd be happy to stand behind each of these recommendations. Most of them are readily available as well except for perhaps the Moombaki Ashbrook and Balthazar (superb wine!).

cheers
max

[Adair]

Riesling
Best: Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2005 (Victoria)

I have spent a fair bit of time investigating the 2005 Rieslings and I have this at the top of my list so far. I still have the 2005 Eden Valley Leonay and 2005 Mesh to try though. Nonetheless, I thought it was superior to the Petaluma and Grosset two, although I see how others could like the ease yet seriousness of the Polish Hill. Actually bought another bottle today (of teh Drumborg) with an EV Leonay.

Kind regards,
Adair

[Max]

Riesling
Best: Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2005 (Victoria)

I have spent a fair bit of time investigating the 2005 Rieslings and I have this at the top of my list so far. I still have the 2005 Eden Valley Leonay and 2005 Mesh to try though. Nonetheless, I thought it was superior to the Petaluma and Grosset two, although I see how others could like the ease yet seriousness of the Polish Hill. Actually bought another bottle today (of teh Drumborg) with an EV Leonay.

Kind regards,
Adair

Well in! The Drumborg is a stunning, powerful wine. I wasn't as impressed with the Leonay as expected for some reason. I don't have my TN for it with me but I've tasted it both blind and unmasked (unmasked first and then subsequently at a riesling tasting where others pointed the wine at an equal score to me) and both times while it was a good riesling, it wasn't great and would probably sit outside the top five rieslings I've tasted this year. Maybe I'm missing something?

[Adair]

Riesling
Best: Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2005 (Victoria)

I have spent a fair bit of time investigating the 2005 Rieslings and I have this at the top of my list so far. I still have the 2005 Eden Valley Leonay and 2005 Mesh to try though. Nonetheless, I thought it was superior to the Petaluma and Grosset two, although I see how others could like the ease yet seriousness of the Polish Hill. Actually bought another bottle today (of teh Drumborg) with an EV Leonay.

Kind regards,
Adair

Well in! The Drumborg is a stunning, powerful wine. I wasn't as impressed with the Leonay as expected for some reason. I don't have my TN for it with me but I've tasted it both blind and unmasked (unmasked first and then subsequently at a riesling tasting where others pointed the wine at an equal score to me) and both times while it was a good riesling, it wasn't great and would probably sit outside the top five rieslings I've tasted this year. Maybe I'm missing something?

Interestingly, Steve (mate) served me the 2005 Grosset Polish Hill (my 3rd or 4th bottlle) totally masked after tasting the 2005 Drumborg Riesling. It made the Polish Hill seem loose-knit and especially lacking intensity on the back palate. I will see the true power of the 2005 Drumborg when I put it up against the 2003 Györgykovács Furmit on Monday!

Adair

Adair

[andyc]

[/b]Best Reds

[b]
2000 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Papes red
This wine amazed me with its almost unfathomable depth of swirling dark fruit, saturated kirsch aromas without the slightest sign of heaviness, seemingly the oak is integrated to perfection but I'm sure will become "more perfect" over time. This wine left me speechless!

1999 Bannockburn Pinot Noir
Lovely wine, unmistakably Bannockburn, they're going to miss Mr Farr.


1994 Plantagenet Cab Sauv
Just about the finest cab I've had from Australia. This has just been taken off the Langton's classification. This goes to show how hopelessly fashion conscious the world of wine is. Hopefully I can get it cheaper at auction now

Best White
Plenty of good young rieslings this year but I prefer to wait on these before proclaiming them great as I prefer them with some age as per the example below.

1996 Pewsey Vale Riesling
This had the perfect balance of acidity and toast with some of the lime characteristics hanging in there. These are not flash wines but the 96 is continuing to get better and better.

[platinum]

Here are my wines trying to stick to current releases where possible.

Chardonay...Piero 03, Mount Mary 04 {just had it}

Riesling...Drumborg 05

Sauv Blanc...Oyster Bay, Rosemount Yellow label {what a suprise}

Shiraz...St Peters 02 {better than 03 for my palate}, Descendant 03, Chook Block 02 {needs a couple of years}

Cabernet...Jacaranda Ridge 1998 {Classic Cabernets destined to get even better}, Quintet 03 {just drank, Not typical Yarra Valley}

Blend/Other...Noon Eclipse 02 {Big Time "WOW" Factor}, Noon Eclipse 04 {More Elegant than 02 and very delightfull}, Kaesler WOMS 02 {Much Improvement still ahead,Yummo}

WOTY...Tied between the ST Peters and two Eclipse's

[Lincoln]

Pinot Noir
Best: Moss Wood Pinot Noir 2003 (Margaret River)

Really?
I thought it was generally accepted that MR makes poor pinot.
What was it like? Do you have a TN?

[Max]

Pinot Noir
Best: Moss Wood Pinot Noir 2003 (Margaret River)

Really?
I thought it was generally accepted that MR makes poor pinot.
What was it like? Do you have a TN?

Sure do! This is the review I put in the paper..

Moss Wood Pinot Noir 2003
While Margaret River is better known for its cabernet, the region is also home to some exceptional pinot, such as Moss WoodÂ’s; full of strawberry, cherry and sour plum aromas and flavours tinged with a savoury edge. Silky, seamless and never-ending like a bolt of the finest material, this is pinot noir cut from cloth that very few Australian pinots are crafted from. www.mosswood.com.au $52.50 3 and a half stars

Please excuse the writing style!

With regards to the quality of Margaret River pinot, I guess it's all personal opinion and style preference when it comes to pinot, but both the other half and I were very impressed with this wine.

Last night also had the Cullen Pinot Noir 2004 with Thai for dinner and we were also impressed - earthy, almost mud-like aroma and an intense, savoury palate. Certainly more sour than sweet. Great length as well! Being a real stickler for savouriness, Marie loved this wine and took advantage of the fact I was driving for the night!

Can't think of too many other pinots I've had from Margaret River - the Pierro does come to mine and while it's okay, certainly isn't in the same class as the Moss Wood and the Cullen. I'm trying to think of othe Margaret River pinot noir that I've had the opportunity to taste but I'm drawing a bit of a blank at the moment. Also, I think one obvious reason why the Moss Wood and Cullen pinots are so good is because of the age of vines and people involved.

I guess like many others, I also believe the adage regarding pinot noir's un-afinity for Margaret River, it certainly isn't a regional variety I go out looking for - or t hat you'll find at wine bars. I got to try the above two as they were sent my way and I'm a sucker for pinot..

Hope that long-winded answer helps shed a little light on the wine. At any rate, I'll certaily be looking to buy a little more of that wine before it's all gone!

cheers
Max

(editted to tidy up sloppy grammar!)

[platinum]

I remember on the newsletter Keith said that they had employed alot of crop thinning starting with the 03 so to get as much flavour into the wine as possible. Sounds as though it may have worked.

[Wizz]

Wine of the yr...

Bubbles: 96 Jacquesson Avize GC
Red Bubbles: 03 Disg Joseph
White: tie: 1990 Hugel VT Riesling and 02 Ramonet Puligny Montrachet les Enseigneurs
Red: Another tie: 01 DRC Echezeaux and 01 Rousseau les Cazetieres
Sweet: 99 Yquem

Aus only:

Bubbles: hardly drank any
Red Bubbles: 03 Disg Joseph
White: 05 Grossett Polish Hill, closely followed by the 01 Giaconda Chardonnay
Red: One of the 03 Bindi Pinots, cant remember which, and the 01 Devils Lair Cab
Sweet: 02 Noble One

AB