SHIRAZ MASTERCLASS IN HUNGARY - Part 2

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Attila
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SHIRAZ MASTERCLASS IN HUNGARY - Part 2

Post by Attila »

SHIRAZ MASTERCLASS IN HUNGARY - Part 2

If you, for whatever reason, missed part 1 please click here: http://forum.auswine.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=3494

Although 1998 is generally thought to be the better vintage, I decided that in this tasting in Hungary at the Pincemester liquor store and wine club, I would show wines from my preferred 1999 vintage as a good-bye to the 20th century. At the end of the tasting, the 21st century was greeted with a 2000 vintage syrah from New Zealand.

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Shiraz fan club at the Pincemester in Hungary


1999 MONTROSE "Black" Shiraz

This Mudgee winery was established in 1974. Because of the St.Estéphe winery of Chateau Montrose, the Mudgee version is marketed overseas as Poet’s Corner. Hungarians are completely unaware that the Australian poet Henry Lawson grew up in Mudgee. Montrose belongs to the Orlando-Wyndham group. Winemaker is Brett McKinnon. The wine spent 18 months in French and American oak. Alc:14% vol.

Colour very dark cherry red. Surprisingly aromatic and beautifully scented, its aromas slowly filled the room. Soft, completely mature and ready on the palate with gentle fruit flavours. Very well made. Mouthfilling, quite full bodied and charming. Excellent savoury finish. Kató Loretta (the only female in the group) thought that it was seductive and wonderful drinking. High praise came from Gyula as well who went back to re-taste it a couple of times through the evening.


1999 TAYLORS Shiraz - Clare Valley régió-South Australia állam

This Clare property was established in 1972 by Bill Taylor and sons. Still family owned, the property grew from 178 hectares to 500. Because of the Portugese port shipper of Taylors, itÂ’s marketed as Wakefield overseas. Winemaker Adam Eggins. This wine spent 12 months in american oak. Alc: 14% vol.

I absolutely love this Taylors wine and have collected every vintage since the sensational 1998. I don’t usually prefer american oak in my shiraz but this miniature bulldog of a wine is an exception. Big fans were tonight Gyula, Attila Császár (viticulturalist at Kreinbacher winery) and myself.

Colour cherry red. Cherries and plum on the nose. Big, fiery palate, packed with fruit and toasty, grainy oak. Excellent and powerful wine, good drinking already but needs an other 4 years to peak. It was a big contrast to Montrose. "An exciting and honest aussie wine" was one remark. Many people liked it and so did I.


1999 MEEREA PARK "Alexander Munro" Shiraz

Established in the Hunter Valley in 1991 by Garth és Rhys Eather, tis winery doesn’t own vineyards. All shiraz grapes were brought in. Alexander Munro is one of their top shiraz labels. Winemaker Rhys Eather learned his craft in the Northern Rhone Valley at Chapoutier. Grapes picked from the Leonard vineyard. This wine spent 20 months in French oak. Forty percent of the barrels were new. Alc:13.5% vol. Halliday gave it 89 points, Parker gave 87.

Colour bright cherry red. Beautiful gamy nose, french style. Spicy gamy fruit on the palate. Soft, fully mature wine. Tasting slightly watery (not a good vintage for Meerea Park) and there was a hole in the middle palate. Lacking richness and focus, the finish still had good quality tasty oak. Most tasters saw the potential of the winery in a good vintage but not at this rainy one. If you own this, drink up.


1999 HOUGHTON "Frankland River" Shiraz

Established in 1836 near the Swan river in W.A. The Frankland River vineyards are located 350 km south of the winery. Owned by BRL Hardy. Winemaker Larry Cherubino. Alc:14.5% vol.

From a very good vintage, this wine was very popular tonight. Colour dark cherry red. Attractive Rhone like nose. “Another French style wine” commented one person. Savoury blackberries and cherry on the palate. Silky, smooth and highly civilised wine. Superbly balanced. Rich and mouthfilling, finishing with fine, powerful tannins and perfectly judged oak with excellent grip. “Stylish wine, a winemaker’s dream” commented Attila Császár and made it one of his favourite tonight.


1999 MOUNT PLEASANT "Old Paddock & Old Hill" Shiraz

Maurice OÂ’Shea founded Mount Pleasant in 1921. Since 1941 owned by McWilliams. This property is among my favourites in the Hunter. Winemaker Phillip Ryan. Grapes were hand picked from the Old Paddock (est.1880) and Old Hill (est.1920) vineyards. The vines were planted on red volcanic soil. This shiraz was matured in new (70%) French and (30%) American oak for 18 months. Alc: 14% vol. Halliday gave 94 points.

Easy for me to like as I am a big fan of Mount Pleasant. Others approached it with caution. Colour cherry red. Interesting, reserved nose of spices, sour cherry and plum. Concentrated, deep and dark palate of plum, black cherries and forest fruits. Seriously built, a slow drinking wine. The thinkerÂ’s choice. Sweet shiraz flavours on the palate, medium to full bodied. Superb balance and harmony. Extremely concentrated, a long haul wine. In fact, those who own this Hunter shiraz, donÂ’t open it. Wait a while. Long savoury aftertaste supported by grainy oak. The 3rd best wine of this tasting.

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A "pleasant" wine for sure... many placed it 3rd best


1999 ROCKFORD "Basket Press" Shiraz

Established in 1984 in the Barossa. Rockford does not own any vineyards except one block of Cabernet Sauvignon. Grapes hand picked from over 40 selected Barossa sites. A traditionally made basket-pressed Shiraz. Winemakers: Robert OÂ’Callaghan and Chris Ringland. Alc: 14% vol.

I’m glad I chose this instead of the 1998 vintage because this shiraz tasted exactly as I expected. Sourced from "Mr.Rockford” Adair himself in excellent condition. Colour dark cherry red. Quite fragrant, gamey nose with a hint of forest floor. Spicy dark cherries, plum on the beautifully full sweet palate. Superbly balanced, satisfying and delicious. Drinking extremely well, a soft and cuddly wine with excellent length. A very enjoyable wine right now so open it and drink it. I was so glad that the oak wasn’t over done as it usually is in the top and rare Rockford releases. This Shiraz ended up as the No.1 choice tonight with only two people placing another wine higher.

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A very happy Dr. Péter Gyuk, a Rockford drinker and future customer


1999 TYRRELLÂ’S "Vat 8" Shiraz Cabernet

TyrrellÂ’s is a long established top Hunter winery that started back in 1858, although did not make wine until the 20th century. Expert winemaker Andrew Spinaze blended two grape varieties and two regions in this wine superbly. The shiraz came from the Brokenback site in the Hunter, the cabernet from the also TyrrellÂ’s owned St.MaryÂ’s vineyard in Coonawarra. Two thirds of the blend is shiraz. Fermented and matured in new and 1 year old French and American oak barrels for 18 months. Alc: 13,5% vol.

As I discovered at an earlier tasting, this wine is absolutely outstanding. Tonight it had dark cherry colour and trademark burnt rubber, road tarmac Hunter nose. Savoury red fruits, cherry mixing with spices on the nose. The palate is the big surprise as the tasty cabernet blends perfectly and adds new dimensions. Excellent and beautiful tannins supporting this full bodied wine. Gorgeous drinking right now. There is lots of power and strength to carry this wine further. It has just lovely structure and superb balance. Excellent quality oak.

"This is why I would always blend shiraz with cabernet: for richness, taste and structure” commented Sándor Baráth. We were the only two who made this wine our No.1 choice tonight. The others placed it 2nd. Fantastic.

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Our No.1 choice with Sándor: Tyrrell’s Vat 8 Shiraz Cabernet blend


1999 DÂ’ARENBERG "The Ironstone Pressings"

Another great and ancient winery that opened it’s doors in McLaren Vale a long time ago back in 1912 to be exact. Still family owned. Many vines were planted in the 1890’s. Winemaker: Chester Osborn and Phillip Dean. Grapes were picked almost overripe at 16 baume. Small yield this vintage. The blend consist of 70% Grenache, only 25% Shiraz and 5% Mourvédre. The wine spent 14 months in 1 and 2 years old French and American oak barrels. Alc: 14.9% vol.

Not a shiraz strictly speaking but I thought to spice things up a little. First tasted it back in 2002 when it was a hugely tannic brutal monster. I loved it for its rather rustic charm. Three years later however it showed much differently.

Colour cherry red with bricking. Surprisingly advanced. Blueberries on the nose and red fruits. Soft, ripe palate, quite complex but those monster tannins melted over time. A fruity, warmly alcoholic wine at its peak. Cila, who is permanently in love with the 2000, voiced his disappointment. "Not a patch on the 2000 we drunk last year. I like it but I am somewhat disappointed”. He drowned his disappointment in another glass of the 1999 Ironstone. To be honest I too was expecting more, at least a tannic monster but that didn’t happen.


2000 TRINITY HILL "Gimblett Road" Syrah

A new Hawkes Bay, NZ winery established in 1996. The 60 hectare property owned by Australian winemaker John Hancock and a British couple. The grapes were hand harvested from 6 year old vines on the Gimblett estate. The wine matured in new and older French and American oak for 14 months. Alc: 13% vol.

Somehow we all felt this New Zealand syrah will not stand a chance tonight. In fact, last year I had a friend travelling to Hawkes Bay and I asked him to buy the superb 2001 Trinity Hill syrah but he returned with this vintage instead so it ended up in this tasting.

Colour bright cherry. Interesting Rhone spices on the nose with savoury red fruits and cranberries. On the palate medium bodied, cherry flavoured syrah finishing rather short. Definitely a young vines wine, not being able to compete in tonightÂ’s line up. There was some stalkiness as well. Pleasant wine but not outstanding.


At the end of the tasting many people were happy with the way Australian shiraz is overtaking the world but as Hungarian syrah plantations are reaching their maturity, on my return to Hungary no doubt my next lot of chosen bottles will have to face fierce competition.

I and the Hungarian club members are looking forward to that showdown.

Cheers,
Attila

Tasted: June 27, 2005
"(Wine) information is only as valuable as its source" DB

Grant
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Post by Grant »

Attila,

I found a bottle of the 99 Taylors Shiraz in the back of the cellar a few months ago, decided to pull the cork and have it with a pizza. It was surprisingly good, and the price tag said $12, at that price it really overdelivered. I really like what Taylors are doing around that price point too, the 2002's were terrific.

Cheers

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markg
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Post by markg »

Attilla,

I opened a bottle of 99 Rockford BP last week to have with my youngests sons birthday. It was excellent, stood out for its elegance and sheer pleasure potential and was just what the doctor ordered for the evening..
Cheers
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DaveB
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Post by DaveB »

Agree on the '99 B.P...lovely wine and in my top five at a recent Basket Press vertical I went too.

Thanks for the notes Attila

Dave

dave

hungary for knowledge

Post by dave »

Attila ~ what red varietals work locally in Hungary so far?
i would have imagine dit to be real Pinot or superavi territory.
what type of shiraz will they end up shaping? is it a cooler style or do they have blitzkrieg summers that put Barossa to shame?

707
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Post by 707 »

1999 is now starting to stick its hand up for being a better than average vintage in SA generally.

It has had to live in the long shadow of the 1998 vintage for too long. Glad I stocked up on wines like the Rockford, Liebich The Darkie, Kilikanoon Oracle, Clos Clare, Majella, St.Jakobi etc. So many of these wines are looking superb and will age long term.
Cheers - Steve
If you can see through it, it's not worth drinking!

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