The first part of this write-up is taken from a similar vertical tasting I hosted in 2020. The full report can be found here: https://forum.auswine.club/viewtopic.php?p=1 ... e6#p162777
My Story
My history with Ashbrook Estate goes back to 1993, when I enrolled in my first ever wine appreciation course. Tony Devitt (one of the founders, along with brother Brian) was one of the memorable presenters on this 8-week course, and impressed me enough to visit the winery on my next trip to Margaret River. I started to take notice, and gradually started buying on an annual basis. Although Ashbrook Estate makes fastidiously fruit-pure unwooded whites (including a fabulous Margaret River Riesling, not an oxymoron), my tastes lean towards chardonnay and reds, and this is where my regular buying has been for probably 20 years.
Ashbrook’s Story (loosely adapted from the Ashbrook Estate website, and some notes from Catherine Edwards, winemaker)
Now a 3rd generation winery, established by Brian and Tony Devitt family in 1975, Ashbrook produced its first commercial wine in 1979 and completed its 40th vintage in 2018. Currently owned and operated by Carol and Brian Devitt, daughter Catherine Edwards, son Richard and son-in-law Kingsley Edwards, Ashbrook has now been a family business for over 40 years. Catherine joined the winemaking team in 2010, and took over from Tony as head winemaker (with Brian) in 2013.
Only grapes handpicked and grown on the Estate are used and all processing, winemaking, bottling and packaging are closely controlled using the Estate’s own state of the art facilities.
Halliday says: “This estate is one of the quietest and highest achievers in Australia, maintaining excellent viticulture and fastidious winemaking.” Personally, I have always agreed.
In 2016, the Cabernet Sauvignon component of the blend was upped to 85% and remains as such. The wine has been labelled “Cabernet Sauvignon” since then instead of Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, and still contains small percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
This tasting was held at the ever-popular Lulu’s Little Bistro, and was accompanied by their regular menu, and a special lamb main course designed to accompany the wines. Thanks Mark – delicious!
As usual, the wines were tasted from youngest to oldest, and the notes below are a composite of the group’s comments. I am grateful to Ashbrook for sending a bottle of the (not-yet-released) 2022 vintage for inclusion.
Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (Cabernet Sauvignon 85%, Merlot 3%, Cabernet Franc 5%, Petit Verdot 7%) 13.5% alc.
A dusty nose, with blackcurrant, cassis, mulberry, cocoa, tobacco, tomato leaf, bay leaf and violets. The palate shows a range of berry fruits (blackberry, blueberry, mulberry, even cranberry was noted), along with mocha, and black olive. Tannins are fine and tight, and there’s a good line of acid. The wine is medium bodied, and a medium to long finish. Well balanced and bodes well for the future.
Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (Cabernet Sauvignon 87%, Merlot 3%, Cabernet Franc 5%, Petit Verdot 5%) 13.5% alc.
Blackcurrant, violets, graphite, tomato leaf, cocoa powder and a touch of eucalypt on the nose, which is slightly dusty and herbaceous. There’s more blackcurrant on the palate, with sour cherry, mocha, red plum skins and vanilla. Fine tannins and supporting acid, the wine is medium bodied and has a similar finish. A good wine from a difficult vintage.
Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Cabernet Sauvignon 86%, Merlot 3%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Petit Verdot 7%) 13.5% alc.
Ripe dark fruits on the nose, especially blackcurrant, along with bay leaf, tomato leaf, cassis and cocoa. The palate was juicy with plums and red fruits, and has a velvety texture. Acid appears a little softer, with fine grippy tannins, and in comparison to the previous wines, this has mellowed. Medium to full bodied, and a long finish. Well regarded by the group.
Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (Cabernet Sauvignon 85%, Merlot 3.5%, Cabernet Franc 4.8%, Petit Verdot 6.7%) 14% alc.
Softer, gentle fruits on the nose, including blackberry, dark and red plums, along with some dried oregano, cassis and a touch of furniture polish. The palate has berries of different colours (red, black and blue) and there’s even some raspberry on the back palate. Tannins are starting to integrate well, acid plays a supporting role, and there’s reasonable body and length.
Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Cabernet Sauvignon 85%, Merlot 7%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Petit Verdot 4%) 14% alc.
A powerful nose, and more in the dark fruit spectrum. Some tomato leaf, graphite, cocoa and one taster noted dark plum skins. The palate is full and surprisingly soft, with black, blue and red berries, mocha, tomato leaf. There’s fine but grippy tannins, balanced by moderating acid, and the wine is medium to full bodied with similar length. A little more restrained, however, than expected from the vintage, and maybe that’s a good thing.
Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (Cabernet Sauvignon 85%, Merlot 6.6%, Cabernet Franc 4.2%, Petit Verdot 4.2%) 13.5% alc.
Menthol and eucalypt leads the nose, which is quite complex, with dark and red fruits, bay leaf, tomato leaf, violets, herbs, cigar box and one taster observed ‘dusty library’. There’s slightly tart red fruits on the palate, with blueberries, cocoa, and noticeable fruit sweetness. Acid is noticeable, with the tannins fine and integrating, and medium body and length of finish. Tasters rated this highly, noting how similar the nose and palate showed. It was also considered to be at its peak.
Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Cabernet Sauvignon 85%, Merlot 7%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Petit Verdot 4%) 13.5%
A dusty nose, with eucalypt, red and black berries, cassis, coffee grounds, and one taster noted rhubarb custard. The palate showed dark chocolate (rum and raisin was observed), brambles, red and blue berries – in fact, considerable fruit sweetness. There’s freshening acid and the drying tannins are integrating well. Medium to long finish and body.
Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2015 (Cabernet Sauvignon 77%, Merlot 10%, Cabernet Franc 6%, Petit Verdot 7%) 14% alc
There’s a touch of leather and graphite on the nose, which also shows red, blue and black fruits. There’s red fruits and blueberry on the palate, with one taster noting powdered ginger. There’s also cloves and polished leather (Chesterfield). Tannins are grippy, there’s soft acid and the wine finishes reasonable long.
Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2014 (Cabernet Sauvignon 77%, Merlot 10%, Cabernet Franc 6%, Petit Verdot 7%) 14.8% alc
A dusty nose with graphite, tobacco, and freshly crushed blueberries. The palate shows eucalypt and juicy red and blue fruits – there’s considerable fruit sweetness on the rich palate. Fine drying tannins lead to a long finish. Balanced and highly regarded by the group.
Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2013 (Cabernet Sauvignon 77%, Merlot 10%, Cabernet Franc 6%, Petit Verdot 7%) 14.5% alc
A dusty nose, with eucalypt, blue fruits and a little earthiness. Developed blueberries and plums on the palate with some milk chocolate. There’s a velvety texture, and strong supporting acid. Fine tannins and a medium to long finish.
Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2012 (Cabernet Sauvignon 77%, Merlot 10%, Cabernet Franc 6%, Petit Verdot 7%) 14.5% alc
There’s leather polish and cedar on the nose, with blue, red and black fruits. The palate shows sour red cherries, red berries and some chocolate / mocha. Acid is noticeable, tannins well integrated and some tasters felt there is a touch of heat. Medium to long finish and similar body. I’ll note a divergence of opinion among the tasters which applied to the 2011 as well. People see wine differently
Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2011 (Cabernet Sauvignon 68%, Merlot 15%, Cabernet Franc 5%, Petit Verdot 12%) 14.5% alc
This was the wine of the night at the 2020 tasting, and it rated well on this occasion as well. Tobacco, eucalypt and violets on the nose. The palate is dense and textural, with mocha, milk chocolate more tobacco graphite and the fruits are developed and concentrated.
The wine of the night was the Ashbrook Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2014.
We noted that all of the wines were in good to excellent condition, and we were unable to establish an optimal drinking window, as it depends on your personal preferences for ageing. It will be interesting to see how the younger vintages age in future, with the shift to higher proportions of cabernet sauvignon in the blend, and lightly lower alcohol levels.
Many thanks to Mark and the team at Lulu’s for looking after us in their usual friendly fashion.
Finally, my sincere thanks to Catherine at Ashbrook Estate for providing the tasting notes and technical information for all of the wines shown (this was provided to the tasting group on the night), and for providing the pre-release 2022. I look forward to obtaining more of these when released.
Cheers
Allan
