Howard Park ‘Allingham’ Chardonnay vertical 3 September 2025

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

I was thrilled to host this vertical tasting and dinner, in partnership with Howard Park’s David Stredwick. I’ve been a fan of the Allingham Chardonnay for some years now, and have built my collection to the point where this tasting was able to offer every vintage of Allingham released to date. This was always going to be a special tasting.

We held the event at my ‘regular’ – the ever-impressive Lulu’s Little Bistro in Perth, and Mark, Jodie and Brad looked after us with their usual bonhomie and aplomb. Definitely the best BYO in Perth.

Howard Park’s Allingham Chardonnay is their white wine flagship. It was first made in 2011, and has been produced in all but two vintages since. There have been only two Chief Winemakers over that time – Nic Bowen (for the 2022-2024 vintages of Allingham) and Janice McDonald (2011 to 2020 vintage). Howard Park has significant vineyard holdings in the Great Southern and Margaret River, and the vineyard sources have gradually shifted such that the Allingham has been an entirely Margaret River wine from 2015. The Allingham vineyard is in the Karridale region of Margaret River (south of the townsite) and the wine comes predominantly from Block 5 of that vineyard. Block 5 was planted in 2004 to the Gin Gin clone of chardonnay. Subsequent plantings have included Gin Gin and Dijon Clone 95.

We tasted all twelve vintages in order from youngest to oldest. This showcased vintage variations, how the wine can develop with bottle age, and also allows us to view any winemaking changes over that time. Having said that, the oak regime has been fairly consistent over the journey, with a gradual reduction in new oak from 40% down to 25% in recent vintages, and full or partial malolactic conversion as the norm. Alcohols have also been consistent, between 12.5% and 13% Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2024:


Having David on hand was an absolute bonus. David prepared handouts which included the winery’s detailed information sheets on each wine, a map and picture of the Allingham vineyard, and a summary of the evolution of the wine. He is also extremely knowledgeable on all things Howard Park, and was able to field the many questions thrown at him with ease.

And now to the wines themselves:

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2024: From the warmest and most compressed vintage in recent history. The nose opens with ripe peaches and nectarines, followed by some lemon blossom, oyster shell and grapefruit. Oak is present, with cedar, vanilla and mealy notes. The palate has more of the ripe stone fruits, with lemon and grapefruit mid-palate. Acid is freshening and complementary, and there’s a modestly grippy texture. A medium to long finish, and some tasters noted how well this wine is showing given the difficult vintage.

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2023: From what is being touted as the greatest Margaret River chardonnay vintage ever. This wine does nothing to dispel that claim. This has everything – florals, white peaches, ripe nectarine, vanilla, cedar, hints of grapefruit and warm grains on the nose. The palate has intense stone fruits, accompanied by slightly tangy lemon and grapefruit, and sweet oak flavours and accompanying tannic grip and lees texture. The acid complements the wine perfectly, and the overall impression is of a wine in complete balance. Excellent length and highly regarded by the group.

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2022: Similar to the 2023 but slightly overshadowed by both the 2023 and 2024. Nevertheless, a worthy and complex wine, with the stone fruit characters out front of the citrus notes on the nose, accompanied by cashew, vanilla, florals and butterscotch. The palate has lemon and pink grapefruit providing a slight tang, and stone fruits in support. There’s also some brioche, and the oak and acid are both slightly more noticeable than on the previous wines. A medium to long finish.

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2012: Not made.

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2020: From a warmer year. A little struck match on the nose, with yellow peach, nectarine and a little tropical fruit and grapefruit on the nose. There’s also oak influences: cashew, vanilla and cedar. The palate is quite full, with tangy lemon (pith), grapefruit, lychee and stone fruits. There’s surprisingly juicy acidity, some brioche, and some texture and grip. A powerful wine with a long finish.

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2019: From a relatively cooler vintage. Lemon, lime, ginger and some lemon florals on the nose, with cashew and vanilla. Stone fruits are in the background. The palate is relatively restrained and delicate, with lemon, orange peel, brioche, and stone fruits again in the background. Acid is quite gentle, and there’s modest grip. Medium length.

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2018: From a highly rated vintage, and this did not disappoint. A complex nose, with ripe stone fruits, figs, vanilla, cashew and some savoury, mealy notes. The palate is equally complex, with a balance of stone fruits, and orange/lemon. Acid is complementary, and there’s some texture and grip alongside developing savoury characters. A very long finish, and completely balanced. Highly regarded by the group.

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2017: From a cooler vintage. There’s more florals and citrus (especially grapefruit) on the nose than previous wines, with stone fruits (nectarine) in the background. There’s also some ginger, vanilla and cashew. The palate reflects the nose, with tangy lemon, lime, and pink grapefruit. Acid is moderate, and there’s modest grip, and a touch of creamy lees. Medium length and this is a good example of chardonnay that reflects the vintage conditions.

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2016: The nose opens with savoury notes; however the citrus and stone fruits quickly emerge in roughly equal proportions. They are accompanied by vanilla and cashew oak influences. There’s fairly ripe and developing peach and nectarine fruits on the palate, with a core of tangy citrus on the mid palate. Acid is keeping the wine fresh, and there’s a slightly creamy mouthfeel as well. Medium to long finish and well regarded by the group.

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2015: This was a little less intense overall than the previous two wines, and the nose shows a little more citrus (lemon, grapefruit) than stone fruits). There’s also some savoury developed notes, with almond meal and lanolin. The palate has some zesty lemon, lime and grapefruit, with stone fruits in the background. Acid is prominent, and there’s a modest leesy texture. Medium length, and possibly unlikely to improve.

The final three wines were a blend of Great Southern and Margaret River fruit.

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2014: This had a greenish tinge in the glass. There’s predominantly citrus (lemon, lime and grapefruit) on the nose, with ginger, Asian spices, honeysuckle, butter / butterscotch and some stone fruits. The citrus theme continues through the palate, with lemon lime marmalade, tangy grapefruit, some yellow peach and tropical fruits. Acid is noticeable, and there’s some lees texture. Good length and showing some restraint (compared to the 2013 and 2011, anyway!). One taster likened this to the 2024, just a mature version.

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2013: The powerful nose opened with plenty of toasty (almost smoky) oak, and was quickly joined by ripe developed peaches, crème brulee, cashew, butterscotch, lemon flower, fennel and a touch of flint. A full and complex palate showed more developed stone fruits, green melon, some citrus (especially grapefruit), spicy oak and some savoury notes. Acid is bracing, and this wine had possibly the longest finish of all. A wine in complete balance, and holding up extremely well at 12 years of age. Highly regarded by the group.

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2012: Not made.

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2011: Another powerful wine. Ripe developed pink peaches open the nose, which also shows grapefruit, lanolin and vanillan oak. The palate has more pink peach and grapefruit, and some pineapple. There’s a lovely creamy texture, almost buttery, and some nuttiness and freshening acid, all perfectly integrated. Very long finish, and very similar to the 2013. Well regarded by the group and showing remarkably well for its age.


An incredible tasting. All of the wines showed beyond my expectations, and comments around the table included comparisons with the big names in Margaret River. I was especially pleasantly surprised that the oldest vintages still show concentration, power and no sign of declining. The Allingham Chardonnay deserves to be included in any discussion about great Margaret River chardonnays.

My sincere thanks to David Stredwick from Howard Park for his knowledge and attention to detail in preparing for this tasting, and to the team at Lulu’s for their fine food and service. Finally, thanks to those who attended, and provided informed and comprehensive comments on the wines (and more than a few laughs).

Cheers
Allan