Australia vs The Old World dinner

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

I was privileged to attend an outstanding wine event last night at Lamont’s Wine Store in Cottesloe (W.A.). The wines were accompanied by an excellent multi-course small-plate menu that was well constructed by the team in the kitchen.

The event was hosted by well-known local wine enthusiast Leigh Gerreyn and wine professional Rahuul Prasad (DipWSET). Leigh assembled the Australian wines, and Rahuul the Old World. The original intention was to compare the Aussie wine with a comparable Old World equivalent. This was made more complicated, however, by the addition of a third wine (blind) to some pairings, and the generous contributions of other attendees – to the point where the original 11 wines blew out to at least 22!

Domaine Zind Humbrecht Riesling Roche Granitique 2022 (Alsace, France): 13% alcohol, and made in an oxidative style with full malo. Pale yellow colour. There’s stone fruits, ginger and red apple on the nose, with a touch of residual sugar. The palate has medium to high acidity, with some talc or minerality, and a fair amount of fruit ripeness. Medium length.

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2022 (Clare Valley, S.A.): 12.9%alcohol. Pale yellow. Made in a more reductive style. A hint of kero on the nose, with lime cordial and little orange peel and guava. High acid, slightly tart, with talc and river pebbles. Medium to long finish. This has a long way to go – we’re drinking this too young.

Cullen ‘Kevin John’ Chardonnay 2023 (Margaret River W.A.): From the 1976 plantings, and undergoes full malo. Medium yellow in colour. Yellow peaches, nectarine, and sweet cedary oak on the nose. There’s big fresh pink peaches on the palate, with juicy acid, and a rich textural mouthfeel. Very long finish. My first tasting of the 2023 and I am mightily impressed.

Armand Heitz Saint-Aubin Murgers des Dents de Chien Premier Cru 2021 (Burgundy, France): Pale lemon colour. A more savoury and restrained nose than the previous wine, with salted lemon and chalk or limestone. The acid profile was quite steely and linear, and the limestone character flowed through. Medium to long finish. I quite liked this wine, but it was definitely overshadowed by the Cullen.

Then came the first of (many) ring-ins: Tarrawarra Reserve Chardonnay 2020 (Yarra Valley, Victoria): Medium yellow. The only notes I took were nectarine and lemon peel, with the palate showing more savoury elements. Overshadowed by the previous two wines.

Bindi Block 5 Pinot Noir 2021 (Macedon, Victoria): 35% new oak. Ruby colour. Voluminous bright red cherries on the nose, almost candied, with some cloves in support. Lots of fruit sweetness on the palate, with fresh juicy acid, fine but grippy tannins, leading to a long finish.

Domaine Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin Vielles Vignes 2022 (Burgundy, France): 13.5% A stalky nose (possibly from 25% whole bunches in the ferment), with a more restrained nose than the Bindi. There’s dark and red cherries, cranberry and mushrooms. The palate also shows some stalky characters, with earthiness, forest floor and one taster pointed out sous bois. Medium length and more complexity for me than the Bindi.

Chateau La Gaffeliere Cte De Malet Roquefort 2021 (St Emilion, Bordeaux, France, 1er Grand Cru Classe): Merlot 60% and Cabernet Franc 40%. 13.5% alcohol. Ripe red plums, blackberry and blueberry with a hint of mocha on the nose. More red and blue fruits on the palate, with gentle, slightly drying tannins, and moderate soft acid. Medium bodied.

Vasse Felix ‘Tom Cullity’ Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec 2020 (Margaret River, W.A.). A fresh and vibrant nose with violets, eucalypt/mint, blackcurrant and ripe red berries. The palate shows considerable freshness (for a 5-year-old wine), high juicy acid, grippy drying tannins and is full-bodied. Very long finish and built to age.

Château Haut-Bailly La Parde Haut Bailly 2015 (Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France). 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. A moderately complex nose with blackberry, mulberry, dark plums, earth and a modest amount of cedary oak. The palate is savoury, with choc/mocha, leather, and grippy tannins. The medium acid can be felt around the perimeter of the palate, and the finish is medium to long.

Michael Dhillon Merlot and Friends 2023 (Macedon, Victoria): A blend of Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon (presumably in diminishing percentages). A surprising nose of red plums, apricot, vanilla, cedar, cloves and raspberry. There’s ripe red fruits on the palate, with soft gentle tannins, and juicy acid. The wine is medium- to full bodied, and has good length.

Dornier ‘Equanimity’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Stellenbosch, South Africa): Purple / black colour. Some furniture polish and raisin initially on the nose, with dark fruits following. There’s more dark fruits, raisin and chocolate on the palate, with considerable fruit sweetness despite the age of the wine. Sealed under Diam.

The Standish ‘Lamella’ Shiraz 2022 (Barossa Valley, S.A.). Purple black colour and staining the glass. The nose shows Campari, black tea, dark plums, dark chocolate, graphite, cedar and Chinotto. There’s heaps of black plums and berries on the inky palate, with strong licorice flavours as well. The wine is huge, showing high acid, substantial tannins and freshness, leading to a very long finish. Dried herbs on the palate.

Guigal Vignes de L’Hospice 2019 (St Joseph, Northen Rhone, France): 100% new oak. Dark plums, savoury oak and charcuterie on the nose, with chocolate, more dark plums and dried herbs on the palate. Tannins are soft, and acid plays a supporting role. It’s medium bodied and complex, leading to a long finish. One of my favourites of the tasting.

Rockford Basket Press Shiraz 2014 (Barossa Valley, S.A.): Purple colour. Blue fruits and mocha on the nose (inadequate notes taken!) with stewed plums and berries on the palate. It’s considerably softer than the previous wine, with soft tannins and gentle acid leading to a long finish.

Patrick Jasmin Cote Rotie 2005 (Northern Rhone, France): Mandarin peel, iodine, sarsaparilla and tar on the nose. There’s not a lot of obvious oak on the palate, and alcohol is high. Medium-high acid and fine tannins, leading to a long finish.

Meerlust ‘Rubicon’ 2018 (Stellenbosch, South Africa): The notes are getting more diminished, I’m afraid. This cabernet blend showed mocha and modest red fruits on the nose. There’s brambles and tangy red fruits on the palate, which shows soft acid, fine drying tannins and a medium to long finish.

Produttori Del Barbaresco 2021 (Piemonte, Italy): Light garnet colour. A perfumed, almost confected nose, with rose petal and bubble gum. The delicate palate shows some tar and fruit sweetness, high acid and fine grippy tannins. Medium-long finish and a lot softer than I was expecting from a young Barbaresco.

There was also a De Bortoli Noble One 1996. Golden brown colour. Honey, vanilla pod and …. I’m afraid the notes ran out here. A curio, but I would have liked to see it 10 years earlier.

Many thanks to Leigh, Rahuul, and also the generosity of other tasters, for what became an embarrassment of vinous riches. Thanks also to JJ and the team at Lamonts, for faultless service and well-matched small plates.

Cheers
Allan

[GraemeG]

A busy dinner is a bugger of a time to take detailed notes, isn't it?

[Waiters Friend]

A busy dinner is a bugger of a time to take detailed notes, isn't it?

You seem to manage it with aplomb, Graeme! Your Noble Rotters notes are most comprehensive and well written.