TNs: Cabernet & Friends (19 November 2024)

[Matt@5453]

An amazing tasting held at Pikes Slate Restaurant on Tuesday 19/11 entitled “Cabernet & Friends”, $75 per head including morning tea and lunch. Designed as a Benchmark tasting for Clare Valley Cabernet.

Wines were served blind in a bracket of 6 wines with only vintage(s) indicated prior to tasting. Everyone had about 15 minutes to assess the wines, after which a panel consisting of Nigel Sneyd (MW), Sue Bell (Bellwether), Ben Marx (Jim Barry) & Michael Kane (Knappstein) gave their views on the wines. Lots of discussions on the wines by the panel & floor - then they were unveiled. If the winemaker of a particular wine was present – they then talked about the wine, the viticulture etc.

Overall, a fantastic and insightful tasting with a few take outs:
- You don’t need to spend a lot of money to get a decent Cabernet Sauvignon
- Clare Valley Cabernet is alive and well with some fantastic examples of Cabernet
- Lots of discussion around mint and eucalypt in Clare cabernet. Some people are averse to it, others don’t mind it. There were a few examples in the tasting where it was a bit extrovert in nature. The top wines of the day didn’t tend to show any.

I am not going to write up tasting notes for all the wines, but where relevant I have made some brief comments.

Bracket 1

2023 Forrest Hill Vineyard Block 5 Cabernet Sauvignon, Great Southern ($75)
2022 Peter Lehmann The Barossan Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa ($25)
2022 Devils Lair Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River ($50)
2022 Mount Horrocks Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley ($60)
2022 Deep Woods Estate Single Estate ‘G2’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River ($90)
2022 Giant Steps Sexton Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarra Valley ($90)

The Mount Horrocks was well regarded by the group, but for me the Giant Steps was the wine of the bracket, whilst described as “not a winemakers wine”, I thought it was outstanding – medium weight, excellent fruit and elegant structure.

The Deep Woods was also a classy wine.

Bracket 2

2022 Knappstein Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley ($25)
2022 O’Leary Walker Cabernet Sauvignon Polish Hill River/Armagh ($35)
2022 Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River ($45)
2022 Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra ($45)
2022 Oakridge Hyde Park Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarra Valley ($48)
2022 Lake Breeze Cabernet Sauvignon, Langhorne Creek ($28)

Lots to like in this bracket. The Xanadu was a lovely wine and well regarded by the group.

The Knappstein for $25 is ridiculous value, and left most tasters gob smacked once revealed. Medium weight, bright lifted fruit, pencil shavings and length.

But for me the 2022 Lake Breeze slightly edged the Knappstein out, a fantastic wine and was wine of the bracket for me.

Interestingly, a lot of long discussion about the Wynns Black label, its history and place in the market.

Bracket 3

2022 Pikes Homage Cabernet Malbec, Clare Valley ($29)
2022 Grosset Gaia Cab/Franc, Clare Valley ($108)
2022 Knappstein Cabernet Malbec, Clare Valley ($25)
2021 Taylors Wines Taylor Made Cabernet Malbec ($25)
2021 Jim Barry ‘Clare Vale’ Cabernet Malbec ($380)
2020 Craggy Range Te Kahu Merlot, Cab/Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, New Zealand ($40)

This was one of my favorite brackets of the day, Cabernet Malbec is a style that I really enjoy – the right amount of Malbec just softens out the palate and elevates the wine.

The Pikes wine was a great start, lighter/just medium weight is just a lovely wine and good introduction to the bracket.

Again the Knappstein wine was well regarded - Michael Kane is doing some amazing things – the fruit comes from some of the prime vineyards on Springfarm Road (north in the Valley) where Leasingham used to get their fruit.

The Jim Barry Clare Vale was a revelation. One sniff and you can tell this is a ultra quality wine. Many people were signaling this was a Wendouree, but to me the oak was more refined than a Wendouree. When the wine was revealed and the price, I think we were all unanimously in awe. The price point is similar to the Armagh with the aim of the Cabernet Malbec to become flagship wine along the Armagh. Lots of discussion around the history of Clare and the importance of Cabernet Malbec to the region. This wine is a nod to Wendouree and the history of Clare. Arguably the best wine of the day and the best wine I have had in a very long time. Outstanding. Ben Marx commented 2021 is the best vintage he has seen and may ever see, it shows in the wine. Sue Bell’s comments were similar, with only 1982 coming close for her.

Bracket 4

2020 Hill River Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley ($25)
2020 Chateau Leoville Las Cases Saint Julien Medoc, Bordeaux ($750)
2019 Taylors Wines ‘The Visionary’ Cabernet Sauvignon ($220)
2019 Taylors Wines ‘The Legacy’ Cabernet Sauvignon ($1000)
2018 Penfolds Bin 704 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($125)
2018 Kilikanoon Tregea Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($96)

The Leoville was the hands down the winner here. As soon as you smell it in particular the quality of the fine French oak and then its fruit purity – takes you to France, that was easy to pick. It was a classy wine with an amazing structure and fruit depth/weight for it to last decades plus. It kept on getting better and better in the glass. One of the wines of the day for me.

The Penfolds 704 was a bit of a ‘hot mess’ in this group. The wine was hot and acid poking out. The Taylors Legacy needs a lot of time.

Bracket 5

2021 Bellwether Special Blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra (Magnum) $100
2021 Wines by KT Watervale Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley ($60)
2021 Wendouree Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley ($70)
2021 Pikes ‘The Hill Block’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley ($75)
2021 Yalumba Sanctum Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra ($26)
2021 Skillogalee Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley ($40)

This was my favourite bracket of the day – every wine delivered on a classic cabernet experience; you can see the quality of the vintage shining through here in each wine.

The stand out wine, and one of the wines of the day was the Wines by KT. She has done an amazing job capturing the essence of Clare Cabernet in this wine – length to burn. The structure will see this age for a long time. Highly regarded by the panel. I kept coming back to it.

I picked the Wendouree given its ‘searing’ tannin on the finish. Clearly a wine for the long haul, but just seemed out of balance. There was commentary this is becoming the weakest wine for Wendouree.

The room fell kind of silent when the The Yalumba Sanctum was revealed at $25, or $19 which you can buy it for online at the moment. Distinctly Coonawarra - Sue was saying this fruit came from the Menzies Vineyard. My notes were cassis, blue fruits, intensity but elegance, age worthy. Stunning wine for the price - unbelievable value.

Bracket 6

2021 Eldredge Louie Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley ($28)
2021 Kirrihill Partners Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley ($30)
2021 Pauletts Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley ($32)
2021 Balnaves of Coonawarra ‘The Tally’ Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra ($90)
2021 Skillogalle Trevarrick Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley ($75)
2021 Jim Barry ‘Barry Brothers’ Cabernet Sauvignon ($25)

After the high quality and consistency of the last bracket this was harder work for me, plus my palate was getting a bit fatigued.

The Skillogalle Trevarrick was outstanding. The clarity and purity of fruit, lighter bodied, punches an amazing wine. The Tally a close second, but not by much, you can tell the quality and pedigree of the wine immediately – the structure suggests a long life ahead of it.

In summary, a terrific day with the setting, the food, wines and banter on the wines, a bargain for $75.

[phillisc]

Matt, this is simply an amazing tasting.
The format, range, diversity of regions, price ranges and all this for $75!!! Plus food of the quality of Slate, far out!!

Always been a big KT fan.
Equally, have just ordered some mixed reds through Pikes members club.
I think there is simply too much expectation on Wendouree now, it seems every wine has to be perfect. No wonder the Brady's don't put their heads above the parapet!
Your comments on the Scantum align with what has taken place over the last two years at the Limestone Coast Wine Show (obviously why its included). I picked up more at $17, its great, but the Menzies is better.

Thanks again for notes
cheers Craig

[Chuck]

Agree your comments on malbec being blended with cabernet. I too like the style and how the malbec softens the cabernet. Much like what shiraz does.

And 2021 will go down as one of the great vintages in SA. 2022 not too far behind.

[mjs]

A fabulous tasting, great diversity and such good value!