This month’s tasting looked at straight Cabernet Franc – that red grape well known for blending into Bordeaux, and occasionally taking the lead in a few Right Bank blends. Where it most famously stands alone is in the red wines of the Loire Valley, where the names Chinon and Anjou feature on the labels.
For us Western Australians, Cabernet Franc can be a minor blending partner in Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignons, and is frequently not even declared (due to our 85% rule for labelling). Some wineries release occasional straight Cabernet Francs alongside their more conventional Cabernet Sauvignon wines.
So, what is it like? Does it age? Does it hold up as a varietal wine? This was the opportunity to answer these questions.
As usual, these notes are a compilation of the group’s comments. Wines were tasted blind, from youngest to oldest. None were decanted before service, and in some cases, they evolved and changed in the glass. All wines were 100% Cabernet Franc.
We started with a rose`: La Plancheliere Cabernet D’Anjou 2023 (Loire, France). Lovely salmon colour. Fragrant nose with rosewater, musk, sherbet, cranberries and ‘wild berry’ lollies. The palate shows some sweetness, with ripe strawberries. Acid is freshening, and the wine is light bodied with moderate length. On a wet and windy night in Perth, we agreed this would be appropriate to drink around a swimming pool
. We also debated whether the acid in the wine offset lots of sweetness, or whether it was moderate acid and slightly sweet naturally. Conundrum! Hay Shed Hill Block 8 Cabernet Franc 2021 (Margaret River, 14% alc): Crimson colour. The nose shows red plums, tomato leaf, gravel dust, herbs, roasted capsicum, raspberries and strawberries. There’s more red fruits on the palate (slightly tart), and green capsicum. Acid is high, and the wine shows dusty tannins and a reasonable length. The group picked it as a Margaret River wine, and it was well regarded.
Zein Estate Cabernet Franc 2021(Geographe, W.A. 13.9% alc): Darker crimson in colour. A dusty nose, with blueberry, red fruits and a little earthiness. The palate is slightly medicinal, with cranberry and blueberry fruits, and vanilla. The mid-palate is the best feature. Spices, chalky tannins, and reasonable acid lead to a medium finish. Chateau Le Fesles ‘La Chappelle’ 2020(Anjou, Loire Valley, 13.5% alc): Crimson colour. Tomato leaf, blue and red fruits, red capsicum and ripe strawberry on a dusty nose. The palate shows blue fruits and red plums, and a ferrous/blood character. Dusty tannins (one taster noted ‘sour’) and high acid lead to a medium, slightly astringent finish.
Leuvier Cabernet Franc 2020 (Barossa Valley, 14.5% alc): Made by the daughter of Jim Irvine, possibly Australia’s most lauded Merlot producer. Crimson colour. The nose shows blue and red fruits, tomato leaf, charcuterie, paprika, herbs, and green capsicum. There’s more blue fruits and red cherry on the palate, which also has that ferrous character and more paprika. Chalky tannins, medium length and well regarded by the group.
Olive Farm Cabernet Franc 2020 (Swan Valley, W.A. 14.3% alc): Dark purple in colour. Bright red and dark fruits on the nose, with musk, and some cordial and medicinal characters. There’s also a touch of VA. A hot palate, with mint / menthol and moderate tannins. Astute observers will note that there are two bottles of Myattsfield Cabernet Franc 2018 in the photos. Yes, two of us brought the same wine. It’s made from Manjimup (W.A.) fruit and comes in at 14.5% alcohol. Crimson/purple in colour. Maraschino cherry, blueberry, mocha, tomato leaf, menthol, and a ferrous note. The palate has mouth-filling and slightly tart red fruits, cherry chocolate, grippy tannins and high acid. A medium to long finish and well regarded by the group.
Charles Joguet ‘Les Petite Roches’ 2018 (Chinon, Loire Valley, 14% alc): Crimson colour. Savoury and smoky nose, with charcuterie and bacon fat. Some tomato leaf, mushroom and milk chocolate (one taster went as far as to identify Cadbury’s Top Deck). A warm palate, with the fruits washing over it. High acid, very grippy tannins and a medium to long finish.
Frankland Estate “Franc For The Fringe” 2017 (Frankland River, W.A. 12.8% alc): Ruby colour. A spicy, herbal nose, with red plums, sour cherry, milk chocolate, tomato leaf and Christmas spices. There’s ripe cherries and tangy red fruits on the palate, with some mocha. Silky tannins and freshening acid. Relatively lower alcohol and highly regarded by the group.
Olive Farm Cabernet Franc 2016 (Swan Valley, W.A. 13.9% alc): Ruby colour. Vibrant, fruity nose, with spices, paprika, choc mint slice, and herbs. The palate shows cherry cola, kirsch, and Cherry Ripe, with high acid and prickly tannins. Medium length.
Maurice Raffault ‘Les Galuches’ 2016 (Chinon, Loire Valley): Ruby colour. Initial nose was vegetal and showed boiled cabbage. One taster noted ‘sewerage farm’. The palate was bitter and stripped of flavour, and e suspect (hope) this was a faulty bottle.
Willespie Cabernet Franc 2014 (Margaret River, W.A. 14.5% alc): Ruby colour. Complex nose of plums, cherries, cinnamon, vanilla, iodine, cocoa, and sweet spices. There’s a touch of Brett on the palate, but most tasters got past it. The palate is soft, with mouth filling red fruits, including cherries, raspberries, plums, and mulberries. Tannins are fine and drying. Alcohol shows a little heat.
So, did we answer the questions?
1. So, what is it like? There’s lot of common elements in these wines -red fruits (especially cherry), high acid, dusty tannins, tomato leaf, herbs and that ferrous character showed in some of them.
2. Does it age? Yes, but probably not to the same extent as Cabernet Sauvignon.
3. Does it hold up as a varietal wine? Opinion was divided around the table, with one or two tasters declaring that they would never buy another one, and some of us enjoying the differences.
Wine of the night was the Frankland Estate “Franc For The Fringe” 2017. My thanks to all who joined us on the night and shared their wines and opinions.
Cheers
Allan