Dalwhinnie wines did not capture me when I last tasted the range back in 2002 at Wine Australia. I thought they were okay but nothing spectacular. However, I looked forward the opportunity at this year’s “Wine Victoria†as I remembered well the awesome 1997 Moonambel Shiraz that took out first place in the Shiraz tasting organised in Europe in 2001. So, with my notebook in hand, I was ready for this tasting first week of February.
I consider myself lucky that I had the chance to taste the range with winemaker David Jones. Meeting him was an experience I will not forget.
His passion, good sense of humour and dedication to his wines were truly inspiring. Incidentally, I learnt a great deal about his Burgundian styled winemaking, especially about the importance of whole bunch pressing to influence tannin structure. I tasted six beautifully made wines, all of them excellent with two being very special.
For those not familiar, Dalwhinnie is a family owned high altitude vineyard in the Victorian Pyrenees. Purchased in 1973 by Ewan Jones, it was named after the Scottish (whisky) town of Dalwhinnie meaning "meeting place" in Gaelic. First planted in 1976, the average age of the vines is 22 years today. The winery follows natural vineyard management and winemaking practices. David Jones is a real Burgundy enthusiast. The winery currently does not use alternative closures but looks to improve cork quality. For more information as there is no back label on the bottles (similar to many French wines), a tiny historical account has been published titled "Dalwhinnie" by David Dunstan in 1999. Should you want to learn more, this lovely book is available directly from the winery.
“Taste the 2003 Cabernet†invites winemaker David Jones
2002 DALWHINNIE Moonambel Chardonnay
David told me Chablis Grand Cru is the style he is looking for when making Chardonnay. For me there wasnÂ’t enough mineral backbone in this wine to see any similarities, nevertheless it is a very attractive Chardonnay that is a pleasure to drink. Made in the Punt Road winery, 15% of the wine received malolactic fermentation then it was matured for 12 months in French Alliers oak. Cost AU $35+, alcohol is at 13.5% vol.
Colour bright clear golden. Lovely ripe citrus fruit, melon and honey on the nose. The palate is packed with luscious ripe white stone fruits with lovely caramel on the aftertaste. Perfectly delicious and ready to drink now, itÂ’s a charming wine that will last 4 more years but really, itÂ’s not a cellaring style. Authentic and varietal, a good Chardonnay that is a pleasure to drink.
2003 DALWHINNIE Pinot Noir
It had to come to this for David Jones. He is in so in love with Burgundy that he had to make an outstanding Pinot Noir... no matter what. This is a very successful attempt, in my book a Volnay style. 15% of the grapes were whole bunch pressed to give this wine fine tannin structure and longevity. The wine spent 18 months in oak, 80% of the barrels were new. Cost AU $45+, alcohol is at 13.5% vol.
Colour bright cherry red with a dark centre. Cherry spice, beetroot on the nose with strawberries and raspberries. The palate is medium bodied, with dark cherry and raspberry dominating. The loosely knit palate will fill out in a couple of years when it will be a much better wine. Very smooth and balanced. Approachable now it needs 3 years to show its best. Remarkably long aftertaste and length. Intelligently made, very good cool climate Pinot Noir.
2003 DALWHINNIE Moonambel Cabernet
A Bordeaux blend I believe. Again, a very well made wine, it is similar to one of the better Yarra Valley Cabernets. When compared to Bordeaux, its purity reminded me the Beychevelle style. Cost AU $45+, alcohol is at 12.5% vol.
Colour black cherry red with a very dark centre. Savoury aromas on the nose with red berries and chocolate. Wonderful, smooth and ripe cabernet palate. Balanced, creamy and modern. Very stylish with pristine flavours of chocolate and blackberry. Very fine tannins and a long aftertaste. Drink now or cellar until 2010. Very well made and delicious. Slightly richer and tighter than the 2002.
2002 DALWHINNIE Moonambel Shiraz
A very seductive Shiraz that was aged in 50% American and 50% French oak, 30% of the barrels new. Cost AU $45+, alcohol is at 13% vol. Tasted twice, based on my experience, treat it like a Burgundy. Let it breath a couple hours only and do not decant.
Colour dark cherry red. White black pepper on the nose with raspberry and black cherry. Rich, ripe and soft but complex fruits on the palate. Amazing drinking experience, like liquid velvet flavoured with aromatic plums and dark cherries. If you own one of this, open it now. It is absolutely delicious. A delightful super smooth wine with good tannin structure and a firm finish. Drink now to 8 years. ItÂ’s a very likeable and tempting wine.
2003 DALWHINNIE Moonambel Shiraz
What a great return to the powerful style of the 1997 vintage! This wine will be released in May, make a note now and buy it for the future without doubt. ItÂ’s one of the great Dalwhinnies. Cost AU $45+, alcohol is at 13.5%vol. The wine received 60% American and 40% French oak maturation.
Colour much darker red than the 2002 with a black centre. Cherry and clove aromas mixing with sweet plums on the nose. Aromatic, spicy wine. The palate is concentrated with dark berries and chocolate. It is powerful and focused with superb tannin structure and length. A fragrant, full bodied Shiraz with a great future. Excellent grainy oak on the finish. A tight and masculine wine that needs at least 3 years cellaring and will last for 10 more years easily. Loved it.
2001 DALWHINNIE "Eagle" Pyrenees Shiraz
To understand this wine, one needs to pay focused attention and itÂ’s best to treat the "Eagle" as youÂ’d treat young Grand Cru Burgundy. This single vineyard wine is the pride of David Jones and he believes it is his best yet as it has “The finest expression of finesseÂâ€Â. Wedge-tailed eagles like the one featured on the label can be seen hovering above the vineyards and over the ridge. Grapes hand selected and picked, feet crushed, wine aged for two years in small, new French barriques. Bottled in a unique heavy glass bottle. Alcohol is at 13.5% vol. Cost AU $150+
Colour dark cherry red. Interesting, Burgundian aromas on the nose that include raspberry, spices, dark cherry. The palate is super concentrated and focused. Very complex flavours of cherries and red berries. Beautiful tannin structure with underlying power and strength. Definitely a long haul wine with 20 years to go. Impeccably balanced with perfect fruit flavours and acid, fine tannins and high quality oak. The aftertaste goes on and on. David Jones’ enthusiasm and skill shows in this wine. As he said “It’s a lot of work to create this wine†so the price tag is realistic as European wines of similar style and quality sell for much more. Worth buying for the cellar but please don’t open it for at least 6 years, drink the standard Shiraz in the mean time. The "Eagle" is a serious wine for the serious drinker.
My tasting ended here and I felt honoured and grateful that I had the wonderful opportunity to taste these wines with David. This great run of wines and good vintages made me an absolute Dalwhinnie fan.
Cheers,
Attila
Tasted: February 2005