Unlike most of my ‘tastings’ posts, this was a tasting that I had no hand in organising. My thanks to Leigh for organising the tasting and for the opportunity to attend.
Sixteen Margaret River Cabernets from the 2014 vintage were poured, and in glasses in front of us at the start the tasting. Many of the wines presented were the top offerings from the wineries in question. The wines were served blind, and only revealed at the very end of the tasting.
Given that the wines were all 9 years old, I’m not surprised that most of the sharp edges we see on younger Cabernets had rounded off, and it was a pleasure to look at the wines without risking the tooth enamel.
Also unlike most of the ‘tastings’ notes I post, these are entirely my own, and not a group compilation. I’ve not attempted to describe colour, due to lighting and that most 2014s from the same region probably look much the same as well
So, let’s talk about the wines: Heydon Estate W.G. Grace: As expected, blackcurrant on the nose, with milk chocolate, and a hint of paprika. The palate shows gentle primary fruits, integrated and slightly slippery tannins, and moderate supporting acid. A straightforward, easy drinking wine now.
Cape Grace Reserve: A restrained nose, with blackcurrant, raspberry and olive tapenade. The palate shows some primary and stewed blackberry fruit (indicating development), freshening acid, integrated tannins, a clean mouthfeel and a medium length. Not overly powerful or complex.
Windows Estate: Dusty nose, with Kirsch, dark cherry and cedary oak. The palate shows slightly higher acid than the preceding wines, and it’s a little prickly. There’s tangy red fruits and a touch of cough syrup, mulberry and mocha. Tannins are well integrated and the wine is medium bodied.
Cape Mentelle: Blackcurrant, dusty oak, lots of mocha and mulberry on the nose. The palate was richer and thicker texturally than the previous wines, with dark fruits, cranberry jelly, and good supporting acid. A long and reasonably full finish. My favourite so far.
Deep Woods Reserve: The Jimmy Watson winner. The initial impression on the nose is cedary oak, with redcurrant, eucalypt, cassis, and dark fruits. The palate shows more red fruits (lots) and a touch of milk chocolate, with blueberry and blackberry in support, Soft acid, integrated and slightly grippy tannins.
Glenmore Vineyard: A fuller nose than previous wines, with blackcurrant, mocha, caramel and mulberry. More caramel and chocolate on the palate, with blackberry, integrated tannins and supporting acid, and full bodied without appearing weighty. One of my favourites of the tasting.
Cullen Diana Madeline: A muted nose initially, with modest dark berries and a little mocha. A soft palate, with milk chocolate and soft dark fruits. It’s only just medium length and fell away on the finish. Disappointing for me, and for other tasters as well. I can’t see this looking good in 2034.
Leeuwin Estate Art Series: Initially a shy nose, with spicy and tart red fruits, and cedary oak. More tangy red fruits on the palate, with soft tannins and the acid is keeping it fresh. I can’t see this getting much better.
From here, the wines stepped up a notch (mostly).
Xanadu Stevens Road: A more complex nose, with dark and red fruits, a little mocha, cedar, eucalypt and capsicum. The palate is more complete than the preceding wines; firstly, lots of blackberry fruit, a little Kirsch, eucalypt and red fruits. Tannins are grippy, with good supporting acid, a touch of glycerols, and a long finish. Good wine.
Voyager Estate: Presumably the Cabernet Merlot. A full nose, with mocha and cedary oak, blackcurrant, black plums and mulberry. A soft palate but not lacking punch, it’s slightly textural with velvety tannins. Acid plays a supporting role only, and there’s a flood of blue and red fruits across the tongue, along with the sensation of lightly melted chocolate. A medium to long finish and for me, an excellent wine. I’m happy to have some of these in the cellar.
Xanadu Reserve: Blackcurrant compote, cedary dusty oak, and menthol on the nose. A soft but full palate, with mouthfilling black and blue fruits, integrated tannins and acid in a supporting role. Excellent length and different to the Stevens Road from the same maker.
Voyager Estate MJW: A shy nose compared to previous wines. Dusty oak and less intense dark fruits on the nose. The palate was a little more forthcoming, with mocha, sweet black and blue fruits, and a little lacking on the mid palate. Surprisingly, finishing very long. Perhaps will improve with time, but not my favourite today.
Vasse Felix Tom Cullity: Developed dark fruits, eucalypt and cedar on the nose. Pronounced blue and black berries on the palate, tangy redcurrant, zippy acid, grippy tannins and a long and rounded finish. I especially enjoyed the mouthfeel.
Moss Wood: A vibrant and well fruited nose (although with some delicacy). Some eucalypt and ‘wild berry’ lollies. The palate shows raspberry compote, choc/mocha, and has cleansing acid, mouth-puckering tannins, and a long finish.
Woodlands Matthew: A complex nose, from which it was hard to pick out fruits, as they are definitely taking a back seat to the cedary oak. A range of savoury notes predominate. There’s more savoury notes on the palate, including pencil shavings, with the fruit lurking underneath. Grippy tannins and a very long savoury finish. Well regarded by most of the group, but I hope the oak diminishes over time.
Deep Woods Grand Selection Yallingup: Lots happening on the nose, with dark and red fruits, chocolate, cedar and showing a mix of primary and developed fruits. The palate has lovely plush fruits, soft integrated tannins, and supporting acid. It’s mouth filling and dense, with some glycerols, and texture (almost thickness) from the oak. Very long finish and my wine of the day.
There was some discussion about the longevity of the wines -generally it was assumed that every wine in this tasting would be at least a 20 year proposition. I’m not convinced, however, that all of these wines will improve over that time (given they are 9 years now). A couple of the wines (for me) were peaking now, and a couple of others don’t show the balance needed to go the distance. There’s no doubt, however, about many of the wines – these are high quality (and some with commensurate prices) that show the goods now and should hit 20 years with ease.
Thanks again to Leigh for hosting this event, and to those who contributed to the lively discussion. It was a great opportunity for me to try these wines at this stage in their development.
Cheers
Allan
