According to Langton’s (I think) Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon is the most collected wine in Australia. Perhaps this is because it has been made since 1954, and has been considered a benchmark of the Coonawarra region for much of that time.
For me personally, the impetus for hosting this vertical was to address what some might consider to be a basic question “What’s the earliest I should open my Wynns BLs?”. There’s not a lot of doubt about their ability to age, but there’s a school of thought that says they aren’t especially palatable before 5 or even 10 years of age.
So, this tasting looked at 13 vintages between 2021 and 2001, with roughly the same number of wines either side of the 10-year mark. The wines were tasted in order from younger to older, and we didn’t have the luxury of decanting prior to serving. This meant many of the wines changed a fair amount in the glass in the minutes after pouring.
By the way, I didn’t drink them all by myself – 10 of us enjoyed the tasting, and the notes are a composite of comments from the group.
There was also a 1999, but unfortunately what was going to be the oldest wine of the tasting turned out to be sacrificed to the gods of cork. Speaking of cork, the 2004, 2002 and 2001 were all under cork, with the younger wines under screwcap.
There wasn’t a vast amount of change in colour over the 20-year span, so I won’t comment on that individually, just noting a slightly increasing brick red to the rim on the very older wines.
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2021: The brand-new release of this label. Blackcurrant and cassis on the nose (you’ll see this a lot in most of the wines), and some of the trademark Coonawarra mint. There’s also cedary oak, graphite, cherries, sage, dried herbs, and the wine “smells juicy” (I know). The palate shows gentler dark fruits, some vanilla, mildly grippy tannins and high acid. Only medium bodied. The group commented on how approachable it was now, but it has all the signs of ageing well.
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2018: Some mulberry on the nose alongside the blackcurrant and cassis. More graphite and some herbal characters (rosemary, lavender, musk) and some earth / creosote next to cherry cola. The palate is richer than the 2021, with more fruit weight. Tannins are grippy but not overpowering, and there’s sour cherry and under-ripe plums alongside considerable acid. A medium to long finish and this feels like it is starting to fill out (at 5 years of age).
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2017: Prominent oak on the nose on top of the blackcurrant and menthol. It’s almost Ribena-like, and some red fruits alongside the blackcurrant. High acid and grippy tannins on the palate as before, but this wine finds the oak slightly overpowering the fruit. There’s cranberry, sour cherry (both providing a touch of tartness, along with some orange pith) and some savoury, meaty notes. It’s a little leaner than the surrounding wines and the nose and palate are quite different. Medium to long finish, and appearing unbalanced.
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2016: An initially shy nose, with red fruits and beef stock emerging alongside the blackcurrant and menthol. The palate shares no such reluctance, with the red and dark fruits flowing freely over the tongue. There’s a little white pepper, and both the tannin and acid are in supporting roles. Tasters referred to this as “classic Cabernet”, “mouth-filling”, and the wine is very well balanced. Well regarded by the group.
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2015: A full and rich nose, with blackcurrant, cassis, graphite and sage. Oak is evidenced by some choc / mocha on the nose. The palate is similar to the 2016, with perhaps slightly higher acid, and, if anything, a tad more complexity. Another “classic” according to the group. Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2014: Initially shy nose, and atypical – some sweaty characters, dried herbs and dark cherry. Tannins were described as ‘silty’, and the palate was dominated by savoury oak. A restrained wine, and probably better with food at this point. Probably the least favoured wine of the tasting.
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2012: The usual blackcurrant, cassis, graphite and menthol on the nose, but some blueberries and cranberries also. The palate shows lovely ripe fruits and lots of them, with freshening acid and integrated tannins. A little earthiness contributes to a long finish. Balanced, and one of my personal favourites of the tasting.
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2010: A rich intense nose with all of the usual suspects, plus some cigar box. Slightly fuller than the 2012 and even more integrated and balanced. Highly regarded by the group, and similar to the 2012 but more so.
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2008: Some cigar box and redcurrant on the nose among the blackcurrant and eucalypt. There’s also some mocha, and the fruits are slightly stewed. They’re quite ripe on the palate though, and the red fruits and acid make the wine slightly tangy. Tannins are fine and the wine finishes medium to long. This is a more subtle wine, but showing development and complexity.
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2006: We’re definitely getting into secondary characters here, with the nose showing menthol, leather, coffee, stewed dark fruits, floor polish and dark chocolate. There’s more leather on the palate (in fact, this was reminiscent of the Hunter “sweaty saddle”), alongside cherry, chocolate, stewed fruits and aniseed. Grippy tannins and a long finish. Interestingly, this was described as a “conversation wine” – provoking a lot of discussion. Well regarded by the group.
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2004: The first of the wines under cork, and this was immediately noticed. Ferrous, soy and umami characters on the nose, with red fruits in the background. More obvious fruits on the palate, with integrated tannins and supporting acid. I think there is a touch of TCA (not universally agreed), and the wine seems slightly stripped of flavour. Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2002: More secondary characters on the nose, with leather, smoke, thyme, sage and red fruit preserves. The palate surprisingly shows violets alongside redcurrants, sour cherry and dark chocolate. Tannins are noticeable, and there’s earthiness and a little oiliness, with one taster referring to stalks. Medium to long finish and described as a ‘wine with attitude’.
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2001: White pepper, dried Italian herbs, beef stock, pine cone, menthol and cedary oak all sitting over the top of the usual fruits. The palate is also savoury with the fruits less intense – nevertheless, and surprisingly, excellent length (one taster suggested “phenomenal”). Fully developed, but still somewhat in balance and in great shape for a 22-year-old wine. Highly regarded by the group. Wine of the night was the Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, with the 2006 also favoured.
Did the tasting answer my original question? Yes, in a manner of speaking. It depends on what age you like your Wynns, I suppose. Personally, I enjoyed the 2018, 2015, 2012, and 2010 the most, with the 2006 and 2001 also holding lots of interest for me.
Wynns also sent me a copy of their booklet “Reflections from our 60 Years of Black Label Cabernet Tasting” which leads me to believe there’s enjoyment and interest to be had in last century’s Black Labels as well. Observing that the oldest wine in this tasting was (only) 22 years of age, I would like the opportunity to taste some older wines to see if they appeal. All offers welcome
Cheers
Allan
