Grand Cru Tasting Group (Perth) – A Frolic with Franc

[Waiters Friend]

G'dy

The focus for this month’s tasting was Cabernet Franc – either as a 100% varietal or as the majority component of a blend. WA and SA seem to dominate in the production of straight CFs, and that where almost all of the wines in this tasting came from. Almost of the wines tasted were straight CFs, with only one blend opened.

As usual, the wines were tasted blind, with only the vintage known. The wines were tasted from youngest to oldest.

Domaine Naturaliste Cabernet Franc 2018 (Margaret River): Ruby / purple in colour. The dusty nose shows blue berry fruits, vanilla, mocha, tomato leaf and tobacco. The palate has lots of velvety tannins, juicy raspberries and more dark fruits. There’s good supporting acid and oak-derived characters are dominant. Medium bodied and a moderate finish. Probably opened too young.

Ashbrook Estate Cabernet Franc 2018 (Margaret River): Ruby colour. Similar to the previous wine, a dusty nose with blue and red fruits, vanilla and mocha. There’s capsicum and red fruits on the palate, with fruit sweetness and a little more palate weight than the surrounding wines. Slightly lacking on the mid palate and probably needed a touch more acid. Also considered to be opened too young.

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Brash Higgins Cabernet Franc 2017 (McLaren Vale): Ruby, and translucent at the edge. Slightly smoky nose, herbal, and almost medicinal notes with lots of red fruits, rose petal, capsicum, cola, and a touch of VA. The palate showed tangy red fruits, dried Italian herbs, or amaro, old Chesterfield leather, and reasonable acidity. Its medium bodied and a medium finish and slightly sour on the back palate. An overall comment was that there is flavour intensity without weight. Well regarded by the group.

Brash Higgins Cabernet Franc 2017 (McLaren Vale): Yes, the same wine! Ruby in colour. Herbal notes, cherries and red fruits, lavender, pot pourri, rose petal and tea leaves all on the nose. There’s dusty tannins, red jubey fruit and a touch of mint on the palate, along with a savoury note. Only just medium bodied, short on acid and a short finish. Note both bottles were under screwcap, and we were surprised at the bottle variation once we unmasked them.

Brash Higgins Cabernet Franc 2015 (McLaren Vale) 13% alc: Ruby/crimson in colour. The nose shows musk, mocha, green or black tea (depending on who you talked to), cassis, red fruits and a touch of savouriness. There’s a touch of menthol on the palate, lots of red fruits, fine tannins, good acid with a slight glycerol texture, tobacco, and musk sweetness. Complex, medium bodied and good length. Well regarded by the group.

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Cape Grace Cabernet Franc 2015 (Margaret River) 13% alc: Purple in colour. Surprisingly, all of the 2015 wines tasted were slightly darker than the younger wines. Perfumed nose, with rose petal, blue fruits – almost like a blueberry syrup or reduction – mocha and vanilla. Rich blue and red fruits on the palate, lots of fine drying tannins, and cola. Medium bodied, with good palate weight and length. Possibly has a few more years ahead of it.

Frankland Estate Cabernet Franc 2015 (Frankland River): Purple in colour. Blueberry syrup and darker fruit slightly madeirised. High acid with supple tannins, resulting in a velvety mouthfeel. Excellent fruit on top of supporting acid and tannins. Very good length.

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Frankland Estate “Olmo’s Reward” 2012 (Frankland River): 14.5% alc. A Cabernet Franc dominant blend with Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, and the only blend of the tasting. Ruby/purple in colour. Capsicum, red fruits, and mocha / oak on the nose. Savoury notes on the palate with developed gentle fruits, refreshing acid, meaty / umami and strong tannins. Reasonable length and seems to be fully developed now (although history might dispute this). Some tasters considered this to be well balanced, and others disagreed. Well regarded by the group.

La Perdices Ala Colorada Cabernet Franc 2012 (Mendoza, Argentina): 14.5% alc. Ruby/purple in colour. Burnt rubber on first pour, but this blew off. Green capsicum and Ribena on the nose, with tomato leaf. The palate showed stewed fruits, high acid and integrated tannins. There’s also alcohol heat and the finish is aggressive and astringent.

With three wines out of the nine tasted, it’s no surprise that a Brash Higgins wine was Wine of the Night. In this case, it was the Brash Higgins Cabernet Franc 2015

What this tasting showed (at least from the examples we saw) is that Cabernet Franc is probably a better wine as a blending option, although satisfying examples of it as a straight varietal exist.

Thanks to all who attended, and contributed their wines and their comments.

Cheers
Allan

[Waiters Friend]

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[Waiters Friend]

A couple more pics

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[paulf]

I like having some Cabernet Franc on hand for a bit of variation although I don't think I have tried any of those. It might be time to have a look at the first bottle of my 2014 Blue Poles Reserve Cabernet Franc and see how that is travelling.

[Hacker]

So far my favorite is Woodland's Cab Franc Merlot blend. 2014's drinking so well at present. Must admit I haven't tried the ones you presented.

[Chuck]

Jim Irvine ex-Irvine Wines (Grand Merlot fame) did some nice CFs a while back. A Coonawarra and a Barossa version. 2015 vintage I think. The Coonawarra was typical CF being a little thin but the Barossa version was quite interesting with more depth of fruit, lush almost, and great mouthfeel. I think the extra warmth of the Barossa helps CF strut its stuff. May still have a bottle or two buried in the stash

[kenzo]

Nice writeup, thanks! Surprised the Domaine Naturaliste didn't perform better given its ratings on TWF and some of the comments I've read elsewhere. (Napa Cabernet-like intensity, etc) Had been planning to pick up a few bottles.

[JamieBahrain]

Over the years we’ve done many Cabernet Franc events and sadly, to present the best, it becomes an expensive event these days. I was always quite impressed with the great Loire or Italian examples. Australia less so.

[Waiters Friend]

Over the years we’ve done many Cabernet Franc events and sadly, to present the best, it becomes an expensive event these days. I was always quite impressed with the great Loire or Italian examples. Australia less so.

I'd have to agree, Jamie. My first memorable CF was about 20 years ago and hailed from NE Italy. They have been few and far between since then.

[Ian S]

Over the years we’ve done many Cabernet Franc events and sadly, to present the best, it becomes an expensive event these days.

All too true of the major (and indeed many minor) grape varieties. Still a lot cheaper than Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo ....