Grand Cru Tasting Group (Perth) - Grenache and blends

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

The sales pitch to the group was “Grenache and Grenache dominant blends, from anywhere in the word, and any vintage. Must contain more Grenache than anything else.” Well, that’s what we got – 6 of the wines were 100% Grenache, and only three blends.

I’ll be upfront and declare that 100% Grenache wines don’t do it for me. They can be confected and can show a bubblegum character. Frequently, they are jubey and lacking in structure – but recently I cracked a 2005 Chateauneuf Du Pape and was surprised to find it was 100% Grenache and saw no oak. A pleasant surprise, but not quite the conversion on the road to Damascus.

So, to the wines. As usual, they were tasted blind, but from youngest to oldest. Also as usual, the notes are a compilation of the group’s comments and do not necessarily reflect my opinions as expressed above.

Naked Wines Culley Road GSM 2019 (McLaren Vale). 14.5% alc. Crimson in colour. The nose is spicy and slightly confectioned. There’s white pepper, musk sticks, pot pourri and some earthiness. The earthiness follows through to the palate, along with red fruits, capsicum, some sour and savoury notes, “Juicy Fruit” chewing gum and high acid. It seemed overly developed for a 2019.

Cellier des Dauphins Reserve 2018 (Rhone) 13% alc. Grenache / Syrah blend, and unoaked. . Simple and potentially faulty. Crimson in colour. A simple nose with confected cherry and raspberry. The palate was earthy, with a touch of tyre rubber and a slightly bitter finish. High tannins. Simple and potentially faulty.

Charles Melton Reformation Grenache 2016 (Barossa). 14.5% alc. Crimson in colour. Modest fruits on the nose, which shows redcurrant and dark cherry. The palate has very high acid and low tannins, resulting in the red fruits showing quite tart. There’s also some alcohol heat. Out of balance.

Rockford Dry Country Grenache 2016 (Barossa) 14.1% alc. Crimson in colour. There’s prominent red fruits on the nose, along with meaty and leather notes. There’s also some “Cherry Ripe” and dried herbs. The palate has high tannins and prominent acid, and overall, the wine is quite complex. Highly regarded by the group.

Bethany Old Vine Grenache 2016 (Barossa). Deep crimson in colour. There’s fresh cherry, red capsicum, herbs and meaty notes o the nose. The palate is medium to full bodied, with more dried herbs, raspberry, charcuterie and dusty tannins. There’s some alcohol heat and the wine finishes slightly astringent.

Richard Hamilton Old Bush Vine Grenache 2016 (McLaren Vale). Deep crimson in colour. The nose is meaty and savoury (not a lot of fruit at all), with apple cider vinegar and iodine. The meaty and savoury characters flow through to the palate, along with earthiness and charred steak. Tannins are high. Some tasters detected Bovril. There’s also a ferrous or blood-like character.

Teusner Avatar GSM 2015 (Barossa). Deep crimson in colour. A rich nose of Christmas cake, raisins, raspberry, musk and cherry cola. More Christmas cake on the palate, with cloves and spices, rich fruits and baked plums. Someone detected Bovril again. It’s full bodied, with a medium to long finish.

Cirillo 1850 Grenache 2014 (Barossa). 14% alc. Deep crimson in colour. Do Grenache wines get darker with age? The nose is huge, almost pungent, with spice, tobacco and oregano. The palate is medium bodied, and meaty with coffee grounds. There’s a little glycerol texture, and the medium tannins have integrated well. It is ageing well, and was highly regarded by the group.

Clarendon Hills Clarendon Grenache 2012 (Blewett Springs). Crimson in colour. The nose shows raspberries, and there’s more of that ferrous / iodine character, along with white pepper. The palate shows tart red fruits, unripe raspberries, high acid and prominent tannins. Having said all that, the wine is in a lighter style. I’m confused.

Wine of the night was the Cirillo 1850 Grenache 2014, by a large margin.

Personally, I remain unconvinced. The only wine I went back for another taste was the Teusner (and I brought that wine along), and any conversion to Grenache seems a long way off for me. This wasn’t the case for most of the group, but it seemed there were very few “wow” moments either.

Cheers
Allan

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[TiggerK]

Thanks for the notes Allan, I agree it's hard to be convinced by 100% Grenache, but in my opinion, it's all about the winemaking style. It's all too often made in a 'Shiraz style', picked late, too ripe, too hot, confected, too jammy. I too have enjoyed the Rockford and the Cirillo in the past but not in my style wheelhouse any more.

I wish I could point to an easily accessible, affordable example to show how it should be done, but I know Grenache can be incredible in the right hands. (Dare I say Rayas). I used to enjoy the Ochota Fugazi Grenache wines too, not sure how they are travelling these days though.. And so sad that Taras has left us....

[mychurch]

I sent a bottle of the Cirillo to a friend in Europe as part of our online tasting stash. Oldest Grenache vines in Auz, and there cant be many places in the world with more mature vines. Interesting to see the power they give off - I would have expected a lighter wine, but maybe that’s the winemakers influence

I to am a sceptic when it comes to Grenache, but I have had a few great Auz bottles and it’s a grape I want to explore a little

[Ozzie W]

I wish I could point to an easily accessible, affordable example to show how it should be done, but I know Grenache can be incredible in the right hands. (Dare I say Rayas).

Try the Yangarra Estate Ovitelli Grenache (called 'Small Pot Ceramic Egg Grenache' prior to 2015 vintage). For my palate, it's the best Aussie Grenache I've ever tried and a great example of "how it should be done" as you put it. A close second are the S.C. Pannell Smart & Old McDonald Grenache. I also hear good things about Syrahmi and Aphelion Grenache, but I've never tried.

[Mahmoud Ali]

... but in my opinion, it's all about the winemaking style. It's all too often made in a 'Shiraz style', picked late, too ripe, too hot, confected, too jammy.

My sentiments exactly. I always avoid 15% wines, and not only with Grenache but also the GSMs. The best Australian 100% Grenache that I had was a 1996 D'Arenberg 'Custodian' but I don't know whether they are still making it in the same way. As for blends, a tip of the hat to Rockford's Moppa Springs, the 1998 being the best I've had.

Cheers ....................... Mahmoud.

[Polymer]

I do think if you make a biggish Grenache, that they definitely get better with significant time...Still has the alcohol but the overall weight drops and it actually becomes a bit more Pinot like....

This happens both with AU Grenache as well as Rhone Blends...

That said...I prefer that it not need to go through that lengthy transition because while I think it makes the wine far more enjoyable...I don't think it's a better wine than if they just kept the ripeness in check..

[Tucker Wine Studios]

Opened last weekend a bottle of Head Wines Ancestor Grenache 2013 (first release I think), was gobsmacked how insanely good it is. Very dense red berry fruit profile, raspberry essence, but has also a dark, brooding, savory, herbal side. Gives the wine ... hmm ... a profound seriousness?! Feels like Alex Head is creating some magic with these old Grenache vines in a similar way Dan Standish does with old Shiraz vines ... if you get my drift. Cheers, Mario