Grand Cru Tasting Group (Perth) – Italian Whites

[Waiters Friend]

G'day

Our first tasting for 2021 was quite specific – Italian Whites. This meant white wines from Italy, not Italian white grape varieties grown elsewhere. We see far more Italian reds in Western Australia than whites, and, from our various travels and experiences, we know they can be quite variable in style, depending on where they are grown, and the grape varieties employed.

We ended up with a range of varieties and regions and therefore travelled quite widely. Most of the wines were up to 3 years old. As usual, we tasted them from youngest to oldest, but this time did not taste them blind.

Monte Tondo Soave 2019: Pale yellow, almost straw in colour. The nose showed lots of fruit and florals – lemon blossom, orange rind or pith, green apple, honeydew melon and white peach skin. The palate had a lemon sherbet tang, with pineapple and lime juice – the wine was a little like a dry Australian Riesling, but not quite. There’s a bit of slate or minerality as well. Medium acid and a reasonable length.

Benito Farrara Greco Di Tufo 2018 (Naples): Pale yellow in colour. The nose has fresh cut parsley, with lanolin, buttermilk and honeysuckle – not a lot of obvious fruit. There’s also a cheese or leesy note. On the palate, there’s hints of tropical fruits, while the texture and acid play more dominant roles. Medium length. Reminded me a little of a Tahbilk Marsanne with a few years on it.

Antonella Cords Vermentino Di Sardegna 2018: Pale yellow. The overwhelming aromas were melon and grilled or charred grapefruit. The palate was also (like the Greco Di Tufo) leesy and textural, possibly more so, and quite savoury. Medium length and would be a good food wine.

Pieropan ‘La Rocca’ Soave 2017: Yellow in colour. The nose showed pickled lemons, peach and hazelnuts. In keeping with most of the other wines, there’s a slight lees character, and lots of savoury notes. Medium acid and a short to medium finish – nevertheless, well regarded for its complexity. Some ageing in old oak barrels for this wine.

Torre Dei Beati Pecorino 2017 (Abruzzo): Again, yellow in colour, no straw. There’s bright and fresh yellow peaches on the nose, with bouquet garni and thyme especially. The taste is almost juicy, high acid, but again we see some lees character and savouriness, along with mandarin peel. Short to medium finish.

Perticaia Grechetto 2016 (Montefalco, Umbria): Deep yellow in colour. Baked tropical fruits, guava, honeysuckle and mint adorn the nose and lead to a full, ripe and rich palate. Again, we see lees character, savoury notes and textural complexity. Good length and palate weight and an excellent food wine. Well regarded by the group.

Montauto Maremma 2013 (Toscana): Pale yellow, and a contrast to the three preceding (younger) wines. The nose showed cut grass, sour milk and a slight burnt rubber note. The palate is fresh with mineral / slate and some herbs. Reminded me a little of an aged unwooded Margaret River Semillon, although this bottle was not showing its best.

A visit to Italy in 2019 found my partner and I enjoying Italian reds far more than the whites. To an extent, this tasting reinforced that for me, but also reminded me that the wines are probably made to go with food, not for consuming on their own. Certainly, there was a high percentage of wines in this tasting showing food-friendly characters.

Wine of the night was the Pieropan ‘La Rocca’ Soave 2017. Thanks to those who contributed wines, interesting stories and light-hearted banter.

Cheers
Allan

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[via collins]

Nice summary Allan.

There's not much to disagree with there - white wines at sunset with local aperitivo offerings is a way of life all over Italy. One of the frustrating things is that, in what is a mirror version of our own market, the real succulent local wine are often small batch, and don't travel.

Pieropan is a happy exception.

I lost count of the different greco di tufos I drank in Naples, within stone's throw of the lava really - it speaks so strongly of the region. Soave in the Vento, vermentino in Liguria (and here is a wine and a place where great things are happening small maker wise), we could go on and on....

Cheers!

[Waiters Friend]

Nice summary Allan.

There's not much to disagree with there - white wines at sunset with local aperitivo offerings is a way of life all over Italy. One of the frustrating things is that, in what is a mirror version of our own market, the real succulent local wine are often small batch, and don't travel.

Pieropan is a happy exception.

I lost count of the different greco di tufos I drank in Naples, within stone's throw of the lava really - it speaks so strongly of the region. Soave in the Vento, vermentino in Liguria (and here is a wine and a place where great things are happening small maker wise), we could go on and on....

Cheers!

Hi viacollins. We may have discussed some of this in previous meetings, and I have had more trips to Italy since we last met. Couldn't agree more.

However, getting some of this experience in WA is difficult. I hope you have access to a greater range of Italian white wines in Melbourne.

Cheers, and I will be in touch when I am allowed to join you in Melbourne
Allan

[via collins]

G'day Allan,
I can only imagine how hard its is in WA.
We sure do have excellent access through a variety of means here, and a newly re-opened King & Godfree outlet that the Valmorbida family have spent a motza on offers an eye-popping selection of Italians in all colours from all regions.
Will be great to catch up - as you say, when we are able.
Please DM when that occurs - as you note, I'm not here a lot these days

[Jan Janas]

Thanks for sharing, Allan. I've enjoyed the base Pieropan Soave and La Rocca is on my radar, good to hear you like it, even though the TN doesn't scream unconditional love.

I agree with Italian whites being hit or miss - there are some gems to be found though. Try looking for whites from Sicily or Marche/Abruzzo in the South, and Alto-Adige in the North. If you like skin maceration, Italians do quite well within that style.

[JamieBahrain]

Angelo Gaja has quite confidently stated the next big thing in ITA will be their white wine !

I'd rate them as "very good" if you know what you are buying and stylistically they can be way out there. I guess there's room to improve and perhaps Angelo is right? His Gaia & Rey can be a masterpiece when gloriously mature ( though perhaps too crafted for some )

[kenzo]

Can anyone remember the name of the white that spends 27 years or so on lees? Trying to recall...