Howard Park “Abercrombie” Cabernet Sauvignon vertical tasting

[Waiters Friend]

G'day

The Howard Park Abercrombie is the jewel in the crown for Howard Park wines. Cabernet Sauvignon has been made under the Abercrombie label since 2005, although the wines have appeared under varietally named labels prior to that time.

By the way, the “Abercrombie” name is a tribute to owner Jeff Burch’s great-grandfather Walter Abercrombie. There is a vineyard of the same name in Mount Barker, which contributes significant quantities of grapes to this wine. The wine itself is a blend of Great Southern and Margaret River fruit, with the percentages varying from year to year.

The tasting included 13 vintages, from the current 2017 back to 1992. The wines were double decanted an hour before the tasting commenced, and were served from youngest to oldest. The 2002 was in magnum, and was held over until dinner after the tasting (but is included in these notes nonetheless).

As usual, the notes below reflect the opinions of the eleven people present, and not just my own. The photos are courtesy of a long-term member of the tasting group (David M). The wines were from another member (David S), some purchased from Howard Park directly, and some from my own cellar.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (52.3% Margaret River, 47.7% Great Southern, 14.5% alc): Purple / crimson in colour. A few people said the equivalent of “Wow!” on pour. Intense and perfumed nose, with blackcurrant, chocolate, vanilla, eucalypt and a little coffee grounds. The palate shows intense fruit, with tight but drying tannins, red fruits (redcurrant?) and finishes long. One taster noted some pepper. For me, the fruit intensity was the dominant factor (in a great way) and this was a superb wine to open the tasting.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (77% Margaret River, 23% Great Southern, 14.5% alc): Crimson in colour. The somewhat savoury nose shows cedary oak, over black and blue fruits, with coffee grounds, fresh thyme, pepper berries and crunchy rhubarb. There’s fruit sweetness on the palate with mulberry and brambles, and grippy drying fine tannins. Acid is cleansing and the mouthfeel is velvety. Long finish. Several tasters described the wine as ‘elegant’, and this was a term used frequently as the tasting went on.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (100% Margaret River - Leston vineyard Block 29, 14.5% alc): Crimson. The nose shows savoury oak, raspberry and blackberry fruits, some mocha, and some spice and herbal characteristics: cloves, cocoa, tomato leaf, and cold Earl Grey tea. There’s prominent acid on the palate, with eucalypt, dark fruits, and more iced tea. The fruit flows evenly across the palate, and is supported by slight glycerols, and firm tannins, leading to a long finish. Although intensely flavoured, some tasters felt this was a touch less complex, and this might be due to being 100% Margaret River fruit, and not the classic two-region blend. The term ‘elegant’ was still widely used, however.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (81% Mount Barker, 19% Margaret River, 14.0% alc): Deep purple in colour, and darker than the two previous vintages. There’s lots of sweet black fruits, vanilla and “70% cocoa dark chocolate”. There’s mulberries, sweet spices and the fruit is slightly raisined. There’s also dried mixed herbs and a touch of leather. That’s a complex nose! The palate opens with slightly tart red fruits and mulberries, well supported by “long lasting and drying tannins” and prominent acid. Medium length. For me, the nose was slightly more impressive than the palate, and one taster described this as a “thinking wine”. The term “elegant” came out again, and this wine was highly regarded by the group.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (70% Mount Barker, 30% Margaret River, 14.0% alc): This was a bit of a paradox in the context of this tasting. Crimson colour. Red fruits on the nose, but overshadowed by non-fruit aromas – chocolate, herbs (oregano, fennel), coffee grounds, liquorice, capsicum, graphite, brambles and smoked meats. Some of this followed through to the palate, with charcuterie, beef stock, and (at least initially) tart red fruits. There’s savoury oak, firm tannins and an acid kick towards the finish. This is a bigger wine, but not as elegant as some previous vintages.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 (74% Margaret River, 26% Great Southern, 14.0% alc): Purple / crimson and quite dense in the glass. The nose (for me, at least) was a little shy and it took a good ten minutes for this to emerge from the glass. There’s savoury oak and the red fruit aromas are starting to show signs of development (including stewed fig). Cocoa, bay leaf, coffee grounds and pencil shavings add to the nose. The palate has deeper red fruits (cranberry) and “chocolate coated blue berries”. The tannins and acid are all in balance with the fruit, and texturally, the wine was described as velvety and suede. Long finish. Another taster stated that the wine is “stupidly elegant” and there’s a lightness of touch to a very well-structured wine. Not surprisingly, this was highly regarded by the group, from a fantastic Margaret River vintage.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (97% Mount Barker, 3% Margaret River, 13.0% alc): Dark crimson, and quite bright in the glass. The nose shows cocoa powder, eucalypt, red fruits, vanilla, saddle leather, rhubarb, a touch of furniture polish and barnyard. The palate shows more primary fruit than the nose and appeared quite youthful as a result. Acidity added to the freshness, and we heard the “velvet, suede” textural descriptors again. The middle palate is slightly lacking (the cabernet ‘donut’ effect, which wasn’t apparent in any of the other wines) and the wine did not finish quite as fully as other vintages.

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Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (53% Mount Barker, 47% Margaret River, 13.5% alc): Crimson colour. Raspberry and dark fruits on the nose, with savoury oak, herbs, olive tapenade, smoked meats, tomato, cumin seed, tarragon, and some cocoa. There’s noticeable acid on the palate some mocha and capsicum. Tannins are well integrated and tasters noted a burst of fruit flavour on the mid palate (in contrast to the 2010). One taster described this as “Italian pizza in a glass” (they may have meant “A wine to accompany ….”). “Persistent” was the final word on this wine.

Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (60% Mount Barker, 40% Margaret River, 14.0% alc): Crimson in the glass. Age development started to show here, with diminished fruit, some eucalypt, sandalwood, macadamia oil, mocha and pencil shavings. On the palate, the diminution of fruit meant that the substantial tannins and high acid dominate. There’s cocoa, plums, and a slight bitterness on the back palate.

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2004 (81% Mount Barker, 19% Margaret River, 13.5% alc): Crimson colour. Again, secondary characters dominate the nose, with leather polish, Malmsey or marsala, cassis, salami tomato leaf and some forest floor or mulch on the nose. The palate also shows truffle and earthiness, molten choc / raspberry and black olives. There’s depths of secondary fruit here, good acidity and tannins and the “velvet” label came up again. Long finish and well regarded by the group.

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (68% Mount Barker, 32% Margaret River, 13.5% alc): Crimson colour. Red and blue fruits on the nose, with furniture polish, earth / mushroom, cassis and cigar box. The palate has quite high acid, which also keeps the wine a little fresh for its age. Supportive tannins, blueberry skins and some stewed fruit, which made the tannins a touch more noticeable. Yes, the word “elegant” came out again.

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc Merlot 1998 (78% Mount Barker, 22% Margaret River, 14.0% alc): Under cork. Crimson, with a brick red meniscus. Secondary and tertiary characters abound here, tar, mushrooms, corn chips, blood, tomato leaf (from the Cabernet Franc component, perhaps?). The palate shows tart raspberries, some meats and fully integrated tannins. Some tasters spotted a touch of brett.

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 1992 (85% Mount Barker, 15% Margaret River, 14.0% alc): Under cork. Crimson, with a brick red meniscus. Blue fruits on the nose, with some tar and leather, beef stock. We were surprised to find blue and red fruits on the palate of a 28 years old wine, and they spread across the tongue. There’s freshening acid. Although tertiary development is obvious, this was considered to be extraordinary for its age. Highly regarded by the group.

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What a sensational tasting! With the possible exception of the 1998 (which might be down to bottle variation), the wines ranged from “very good” to “magnificent” over a spread of 25 years.

Wine of the Night was a close-run thing, with the Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 winning on countback from the 2013, and surprisingly the 1992 coming a very close third.

More importantly, the tasting showed the consistent quality of the Abercrombie wines – vintage variation is certainly apparent when you look at these wines side-by-side, but the overall quality level is exceptional. More than one taster commented that, if you opened any of these wines in isolation for dinner, you would be more than satisfied, and it is only tastings like these that differentiate the “very good” from the “remarkable”.

Cheers
Allan

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[paulf]

I don't have much experience with the Abercrombie, but it is interesting reading through your notes and noting how much the blend of Mt Barker vs Margaret River changes from year to year. I was a little surprised to see the 2014 being a 100% Margaret River although I know that was an excellent vintage for Margaret River in general that year.

[Willard]

Thanks Allan, full of useful info as usual. Think the only one I have is 2009 under Magnum (or is it 2008..? hm). I'll probably leave longer in any case, sounds like might be a bit of an in-between stage of development.

Cheers,
Will

[Mahmoud Ali]

Interesting reading though my interest was in the most recent vintages, then the ten year olds, and, of course, the oldest. I've never had the Abercrombie but wish I had some. The only Howard Park I have is a six-pack of the Howard Park 2003 'Leston' Shiraz. It's developing nicely based on the last bottle I had a few years ago.

[Hacker]

The only Howard Park I kept was the John Wade 1994 Cab sav, and that garnished itself quite the reputation. Sadly though they disappeared on the early 2000's. First WA red that made me sit up and take notice. Now Margaret River red and whites are front and centre of my cellar.

[Rocky]

Thanks Allan
Very informative notes as always. I have been a fan of Howard Park and always enjoy visiting their MR and Denmark cellar door although Denmark is no longer.

I have magnums of the 03/04 and 07 Abercrombie plus singles of the 08/12. Last year I (we) consumed a 02 magnum and to be honest found it a little underwhelming and very dry. Nice but expecting more. Do you find the Abercrombie tannins a little drier than the typical reserve MR Cabernet?

Regards
Mark

[Waiters Friend]

Last year I (we) consumed a 02 magnum and to be honest found it a little underwhelming and very dry. Nice but expecting more. Do you find the Abercrombie tannins a little drier than the typical reserve MR Cabernet?

Not generally, Mark, and certainly the notes for this tasting don't indicate this either (for the 2002 or many of the other vintages). For me, the Abercrombies are as much about balance than anything else, and the tannins are not obtrusive.

However, I also tried the 2002 from magnum at a tasting last year and didn't appreciate it as much as the 2016 (which was shown alongside it). There's vintage variation in the Abercrombies, and maybe 2002 isn't quite the highlight that some of the other vintages are.

The vineyards have also gained more maturity in the intervening years and there's been 3 or 4 different winemakers in that time. I definitely like the way the wines have evolved this decade, and I think Abercrombie is on a roll at the moment.

Enjoy the vintages you have - there's some good ones in there.

Cheers
Allan

[AndrewCowley]

I have 3 of the 2008 cellared away. Sounds like time to give one a try.

[Con J]

Thanks for the write up, looks awesome.

Don’t think I’ve had Howard Park Cabernet for over a decade and the few I did have were from the early to mid 90’s. Great to hear the 92 is holding up so well, I’ve got a couple 1994’s in wine fridge that I purchased last year.

If I remember correctly quality went down in the late 1990’s and most of the 2000’s so they went off my radar, I think it was vineyard expansions and production increased, but I could be wrong.

Coincidently I was researching Wynns Coonawarra Estate winemakers and found that John Wade started Howard Park in the 1986 after leaving Wynns, he was with Howard Park up until 1999.

Cheers Con.

[Ozzie W]

Thanks for the very informative notes, Allan.

Smart buying, Con. I had the 1994 last year and it was a stunner

I've got a couple bottles of 2012 and 2013 in the cellar. Not plannng to open them until the mid 2030's.