The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread

[JamieBahrain]

Luciano Sandrone Le Vigne Barolo 2009- Blended parcels of fruit from four villages- Serralunga, Castiglione Faletto, Barolo & Novello. Some notable vineyards including Baudana and Villero.

The very pleasant Sandrone stamp with independently discernible scents of sweet ripened strawberries, cherries, rose, vanilla and spice. The warm vintage comes to fore with darker notes driving a Turkish Delight mesh. Phenomenal length, generous fruit on the front and middle trailing a long finish of spicy-dry tannins. Still a few years off with my guess length will fill out a little more.

94pts+

An old favourite reported before. The Paolo Conterno Ginestra Riserva 2007 matched beautifully with high-end sweet and sour pork. Monforte seemed to fair better than many in 07 with ripeness and freshened intensity in sync.


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Ginestra Riserva on song!

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Fail-safe Cantonese at Duddels in Cental. Hope you all make it back to Hong Kong soon.

https://www.duddells.co/home/en/

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Earlier, farewelled a friend relocating to Veneto with drinks at the China Club. The late David Tang's themed 30's Shanghai decor never fails to impress. The art is amazing.

[Ozzie W]

Just discovered this awesome website today which is based on the books Barolo MGA Vol. 1 and Vol. 2.

[url]https://www.barolomga360.it/en[/url]

What an awesome way to learn more about Barolo! You need to subscribe to access all the information, but some of it is free.

[JamieBahrain]

Picture tells a thousand words!

Looks great. I've always found there to be something missing from his books and app's. Vineyard pictures may go someway to addressing.

[phillisc]

Yes certainly reflects what is going on in the world of gender right now
Cheers Craig

[sjw_11]

2009 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (6/21/2020)

Quite deep red in the glass, this is still youthful on the nose and quite exuberant in a way (in the context of Nebbiolo at least). It is quite dense with relatively dark fruits, plums, meat juices and a touch of undergrowth. With air some more floral, bright cherry notes appear. The palate is quite fleshy, with cherry fruit dominant. The tannins remain firm but a bit over ten years in the bottle has clearly let them become unobtrusive. This continued to hold while open for three days, suggesting plenty of life left, although I do think this is in a pretty good place now. Without question a very good wine, maybe just because of the price point I wonder if it perhaps lacks a certain X factor, but probably this is at the level of splitting hairs. (92 pts.)

[JamieBahrain]

Marchesi di Gresy Langhe Martinenga Nebbiolo 2010 - At 10 years this has transformed toward it's tertiary stage. Starting to brown, autumnal development, twigs and bark. Bit of a swirl draws roses in decay. Very comfortable on the palate with a little brown sugar and dried fruit notes. Very gratifying. Little or no oak.

Fruit from the Monopole of Martinenga.

91pts

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Presented another bottle of 1999 Corino Barolo VV. Very serious Barolo from La Morra. Lovely !

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[JamieBahrain]

Sottimano Langhe Nebbiolo 2018- I like the folks of Sottimano. Visited just prior their steep rise in recognition ( and pricing ) and they had that typically wonderful Piedmontese family warmth. Caught up again in Hong Kong soon after and I'm happy for them thy are making great wines and getting the rewards.

A vivid and nervous candescence of youthful nebbiolo fruit from young vines in Basarin. Pretty, energetic red fruits, lighter licorice notes; long clean ride of acidity with just a lump of plump fruit needing time to even- tannins orderly and funnel on the finish.

90pts+


Day two noted a little warmth and a little astringency- could have been me I'd been hiking all day in 34 degree heat. But anyways, a good intro to 18.

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[Rossco]

2012 Cavallotto Langhe Neb

Drinking really well now, probably close to its peak. Nicely integrated acid here, tannin soft and furry, but the surprise for me was the concentration of fruit. Minerals/Iron..especially the iron, peppery spice and florals. Darker style fruit, black cherry. Drink now and will hold for a little while.

[JamieBahrain]

Very lucky to have a good friend organise a tasting for three of us whilst chatting to Barbara Sandrone for an hour on zoom. We were drinking what's the hottest wine and all the talk from Piedmont at the moment- Luciano Sandrone Vite Talin from the inaugural commercial release of 2013. For good measure we also had a 2012 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne.

Barbara is delightful. I recall many memorable visits to Sandrone including a long lunch though also an occasion where my wife and infant daughter were present. Now its a bit stressful tasting with kids and as to how they'll be received. The Sandrone's took us all in as if family.

Barbara chatted about the amazing story of Vite Talin. Interesting and hot off the press, it's been proven to be a new clone of nebbiolo. The story is with searching online- and see if you can reconcile with the high price of the wine.


Luciano Sandrone Barolo Vite Talin 2013- Aromas are rich and dark, a floral overcast prior a storm of the most perfectly mature nebbiolo fruit in a deep abyss of consistency. Still fresh and primary, gentle fine spices and cedar drowning in the even layer of dark fruit in very good length and impeccable structural balance.

97pts+


Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2012- Bit early to be drinking Le Vigne for me. Its a serious blend of some pretty serious vineyards including Baudana and Villero.

It's warm fruited aromatically- red berries and complex dry florals, earth and tar. Drink it too young and yes, there's some high quality oak. Drink it with age and the oak and fruit parcels mesh beautifully. The blends are back for me! The 2012 is still integrating- its elegant though unevolved; needs time and you can feel the fruit bursting out within structural tension.

93pts+

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Enjoyed a few glasses of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 2007- which has Monfortino fruit this vintage. It is in a terrific spot with very high levels of complexity in a sous bois spectrum, higher fresher violet like fruit notes all packed into a stunning length with clay-mineral tannins. 2007 gets written off by many as too hot or too ripe but gee I'm fining some rippers out there!

95pts

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[JamieBahrain]

Orlando Abrigo Barbaresco Meruzzano 2015 versus Piero Busso Langhe Nebbiolo 2016 my simple weekend's drinking.

The Barbaresco showed the warm vintage fruit sweetness and generous oak support whereas the Piero Busso showed the incredible fruit purity and power of the vintage. Piero Busso is one to watch.

[JamieBahrain]

I was fortunate enough to have unlimited helpings most of Oddero's single vineyard Cru's last week from magnums. Not quite at the 20 year point which I like for this producer- but at an age where complexity and vineyard nuance starting their blossom.

Having been, fortunately, exposed to the great wines of the world affordably or though generosity, Piedmont wines being convincing favourites was about a dozen experiences and not a single Burgundy-esque like epiphany. Oddero's Barolo Vigna Rionda was one such experience from a 20 year plus bottle ( which is about right for this site if made in an old fashioned sense ).

Oddero's latest releases garner some glowing reviews over at Winefront ( 2015 & 2016 vintage ). Reading the reviews and knowing the wines they seem to have gone up a few notches in fruit purity and expression. Oddero of old in my view expresses each Cru with a dark and dried fruit like background.

Instead of droning on with my style of notes I thought a European perspective would be interesting with notes from the importer. This was a dinner where you'd just go up and help yourself as required with the wines on the table- notes were very accurate. Click the photos makes them readable.


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[JamieBahrain]

Magnificent to match some Piedmonte wines with Chinese food. Monprivato with crab!

Almondo's Arneis is one of my favourites. Folks fall for the big name Arneis and they are really just bought-in grapes. Whereas Bricco Ciliegie from Giovanni Almondo has a story to tell. I walked the patch quilt vinyeard years ago. Very calm place.

Arneis does age. It develops complex aromatics and a sublime minerality that's been described as having a buzz like sun-warmed granite. Compliments food in a convincing fashion.

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Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2007- A few days ago I had an excellen bottle of Conterno Cascina Francia from 2007. Monprivato is very good too. It's warm and generous yet regains high levels of freshness. Sits plump on the front and middle prior a good tail of tannins in a complex flavor persitence.

94pts +

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Gaja Barolo Dagromis 2004- I quite enjoy this wine. Entirely La Morra fruit the label now sees some Serralunga fruit too ( off the top of my head ). It's crafted and in a great spot. The length is evenly filled with fruit that's sufficiently developed to suggest a peak. Descriptors chop and change with the food- overall and excellent effort.

94pts


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[Rossco]

2016 Cantine Garrone 'Cà d'Mate' Valli Ossolane Rosso
TCA or some other fault I suspect. Upon opening all I could get was a raw wood / raw cork (nose & palate) type notes. It was quite distracting and was almost like they used 100% new oak barrique for 48 months.
Triple decanted it, which softened it just enough so I could sort of see the fruit poking through the oak. Liquorice and cherry with a touch of
raspberry. Wife loved it (she loves oak), I didnt. Have two more, so will crack another one soon and report back.

2015 Ar.Pe.Pe. Valtellina Superiore - Sassella Stella Retica
This was SO much better than the Garrone. Still needed longer in the decanter, but I couldn't wait. Medicinal herbs, and lovely acid structure. Some very pretty Violets in here as well. Touches of orange, fennel/aniseed and crushed rock. Love the minerality here and pure, bright red fruits. Sour Cherry, Strawberry and some raspberry. Lovely

[Gary W]

[quote="Rossco"]2016 Cantine Garrone 'Cà d'Mate' Valli Ossolane Rosso
TCA or some other fault I suspect. Upon opening all I could get was a raw wood / raw cork (nose & palate) type notes. It was quite distracting and was almost like they used 100% new oak barrique for 48 months.
Triple decanted it, which softened it just enough so I could sort of see the fruit poking through the oak. Liquorice and cherry with a touch of
raspberry. Wife loved it (she loves oak), I didnt. Have two more, so will crack another one soon and report back.

It's not an oaky wine at all. Quite the opposite.

[JamieBahrain]

Poderi Colla Barbaresco Roncaglie 2010- 2010 was a superb vintage for Barolo. I've found Barbaresco less so. Not suggesting there aren't incredible wines from the vintage, I just wouldn't bet on all of them. This wine shows some of the vintage recalcitrance I've seen. The strong structural bones of youth and tightly wound flesh, haven't built muscle, rather, they have delivered a fruit gauntness with a reasonable 10 years in the cellar. Not uncommon, though in this case I wonder if Beppe Colla's short macerations and time in oak ( developed in the 40's and followed today ) have accentuated an austerity.

We opened six bottles. Slow-ox for a day. Aromatically shy with gentle red fruits and menthol. Long and lean; very well received with food- though I felt it delivered an intensity you'd expect from a Langhe nebbiolo.

I took a bottle half bottle home. Showed browning the next day and decidedly past its best. Unusual for Barbaresco- perhaps a flawed bottle.

90pts

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[JamieBahrain]

Albino Rocco is another producer, whose refinement and adaption of wine making practices, along with impressive vineyard holdings in Barbaresco, is seeing a quiet rise to the higher echelons of the region. All Cru's had a note of high quality big botti, nuanced and freshly sawn, with integration coming with cellar time or in my case, a few days open. Chatting my importer mate and only Cotta received newer Austrain barrel.

I opened all their 16's ( bar the special bottling "Angelo" ) on Sunday night and drank throughout the week. Cotta and the Classico were in a good place, so they went down by Monday- the other Cru's had the ooomph to go all week.

Albino Rocca Barbaresco 2016- Fruit is sourced from younger parcels around Barbaresco, Neive and San Rocco Seno d’Elvio.

Stand-out fruit purity and length with generous proportion of the vintage. I enjoyed the aromatic power over a couple of days- starts with clean, ripe cherry jam and sweet amorino like sauce. Next day it's blossomed toward more classic nebbiolo scents with sour and almond shades. Long wash of balsamic like acidity and a flood of alluvial tannins- food will draw out the red and black fruit on the palate at this stage though without, there's gentle austerity.

93pts+


Albino Rocca Barbaresco Montersino 2016- I found the 2014 intriguing. From little known Barbaresco commune of San Rocco Seno d’Elvio ( close to Alba ). 2016 less so and it seems a little more extracted, heavier and with less complexity that the lesser vintage offered. It's worth a punt to see if time draws out beauty. It's dark fruited, compressed dark cherry like, with just whiff of pepper, orange rind and oak shavings. In the mouth, commanding and round, sappy black fruit extract with the a tadpole tail of tannins.

92pts+

Albino Rocca Barbaresco Cotta 2016- Cotta has complex soils drawing beautiful perfumes. By far the most aromatically complex of all the wines; it's inviting and moreish. Long and classically elegant, fruit is sweet ( red and black ) and at times having the complexity of the perfume. Again, faintly hollow, needing food or time to draw out an even palate spread.

94pts+


Albino Rocca Barbaresco Ronchi 2016- Worth visiting the winery for the scenery over the vineyards and capturing the beautiful vined slopes running toward Neive ( from Barbaresco town ).

A powerhouse of a Barbaresco. With the serious structure you'd expect considering its immediate neighbours to the north of Montefico and Montstefano. The vintage has been kind for the aromatics- powerful yet defined by clearly discernible nebbiolo traits of tar and roses. Prettier than that, there's rose and violets, spellbinding coal tar and old engine oil. Despite it's impressiveness on day one, a powerful wine with youthful grace, it takes til day four to reveal its might. Loaded with fruit complexity and nuance in red and black fruits, minerals and meatiness evolve amongst all this action on the palate- and the ripe tannins sweeten in acidity, tinged in cleansing citrus.

95pts+


Albino Rocca Barbaresco Ovello Vigna Loreto 2016- Ovello was my favourite wine because you can smell and taste the site in a rare purity. I haven't seen this before in PdB offerings nor A Rocca. Loreto is a patch in the west position of Ovello. Evidently warmer, in 2016 this is on show, yet there's restraint- aromas are pure and not jammy. There's also a simplicity to the fruit which could itself be a purity. All of this is loaded in a long and focused wine of considerable power.

Fruit development was fascinating over the week- deep clean red berry, raspberries, all framed in both a density and elegance. By about day four fruit is more lollied of sorts, red licorice, though now with smoke and meat like notes. Day seven and the final glass sees the clean earthy notes come to the fore, a chinato like development ( more a mix of dry hay, herbs and dried fruit preserves ).

A timeless wine.

97pts+


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[Ian S]

Also a lovely tasting room with a wonderfully large tasting table.

One little thing I noted on our visit, and I saw it as a positive, was a selection of partially drunk bottles in the corner, which they said were from the previous evening. A genuinely worldwide selection that showed an interest outside the Langhe bubble. I always think that is healthy.

[JamieBahrain]

Partially drunk is healthy I guess.

To be honest, many smaller Piedmonte producers I know drink Barbera at the end of the day. Some wealthier ( famous ) and more worked styles of producers actually holiday in Burgundy. Reflects in their wines IMO and I always wonder why they get such harsh comments from solely traditional fanatics of Barolo & Barbaresco

The Roccas are finding their way after the death of Angelo. I think their direction is fantastic- perhaps the international drinking helps? Though I can't think of an international style like theirs.

[Rossco]

Friday decided to try my luck again with the:
2016 Cantine Garrone 'Cà d'Mate' Valli Ossolane Rosso

100% last bottle was faulty, and this was much better. In the Zalto, and immediately had some gentle white ground pepper. Crushed rocks and gravel. Lovely spice here, quite spicy. Gentle acid and furry tannins hold everything together. Sour cherry with a dash of raspberry and that peppery finish. No oak to be seen.


2016 Ruggeri Corsini Bricco San Pietro.

Decanted for 5 hours and drank out of the Zalto Burg.
Darker fruit profile and more of black cherry and dark raspberries as well. Nice floral notes, but again
more violets than roses. Nice soft furry tannin, and this was a surprise to me, as it wasnt overpowering, raw or what I was
expecting.
It has some charcoal type minerals in there, which was interesting as well as some slight aniseed/fennel/liquorice notes.
Needs a long sleep and my other 2 bottles will go down for a while.


Last week, my Wife accidentally opened my last 2015 Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Sassella Stella

Since Vic's are in lockdown (im going to say indefinitely as I cant see it being lifted anytime soon!) and we are not going to be eating out, decided to deflower the new Zalto Burg glass I bought after breaking my last one a couple of months ago.

I missed this glass and all the nuisances it brings out. Very similar notes to last time,(Medicinal herbs, and lovely acid structure. Some very pretty floral perfume) in here too but more red florals and some slight tar with fennel (that i didnt get before). Lovely wine, but will only improve. Should get some more.

[Rossco]

2014 Fletcher Recta Pete Barbaresco
Very firm tannin structure here. I could only imagine how hard this would have been on release. Starting to show some life though. New leather and dried orange peel. Blueberry and dark cherry notes with alpine herbs, pine and cloves.
Quite 'skinny' and time will serve this very well. Tannin needs to soften and let the wine flesh out a bit. Opened too early.... my bad.
(only bottle too... dang!)


2016 Cavallotto Langhe Neb
Cork stained right up to the cap. Glad I didn't cellar this for the 5+ years I was planning too. Caught just in time (nomacork). Roses, tar and musky notes. Iron minerals, gravel and earth. Initially the length was a bit short and alcohol pokey as well. After some good time in the decanter, itbecame very floral and just a joy to drink. Nice acid, lower tannin than the Fletcher. Not too bad for a Thursday (this was my last bottle as well)


2016 Garrone Ca d'Mate
Final bottle of a 3 pack that I had purchased. This one cork tainted as well. So thats 2 bad bottles and one good bottle. Wont buy again as its simply
outrageous this day and age to have that level of failure.

[JamieBahrain]

Cigliuti Barbaresco Vie Erte 2001- I snagged a case from Berry Brothers Exchange and I have had about four now. Nice to drink some wine from the Neive area - and from a lesser known pioneer producer of sorts with modern vineyard practices and old fashioned and clean winemaking.

Considering the wine is made from very young vines this is quite the effort and suggests Cigliuti solid for the ultra-long haul. Sometimes not a bad thing for Barbaresco from Bricco Neive and surrounds.

Best bottles still had a streak of lively red fruits throughout. Predominantly dark- tar, cocoa and with freshening mint. There's lovely decay- flowers, tobacco and eucalypti. Great concentration and spread, perhaps evidence of the vineyard efforts, with a dark and spicy influence and chewy Neive alluvial tannins.

93pts


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[JamieBahrain]

Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris 2015- Sort of a ITA Rockford equivalent for me. Although I buy a lot more than x 6. Usually buy magnums and a case of the precious Piè Franco.

Not as flamboyant as I expected. However, it does have that drinkability of 2015, with a manageable structure and constant refashioning with each glass ( so much so I polished off the bottle tonight ).

Top notes of sour cherry, menthol, pepper and spice. Almost blackberry-tar like underneath with a mineral-orange tang. Builds flesh fast, fresh leather and spice flavours in check with more dark extract- always easy, always in balance, best glass is when all has meshed. Cool acidity and brushstroke tannins.

Will drink well throughout the next few decades.

94pts+


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[JamieBahrain]

La Spinetta Barbaresco Starderi 1998- Presented blind, I thought this obviously Italian, moving on to probably a Super Tuscan- the colour eliminated nebbiolo despite some mint/underbrush nebbiolo like scents. Next option hint stated Piedmont . Back to the colour, obviously now a high class modernist, probably Barbaresco, with the rich traits of the wine lending me to proclaim a Gaja Barbaresco from 1998. When La Spinetta revealed I cursed my memory bank for forgetting this producer- perhaps now a giveaway the rounded style.

Next wine was a 1999 Tignanello- colour was the same!

Those who drink from Starderi won't recognise the site in this wine from La Spinetta. It's gloriously mature and holding. Mint and undergrowth prior a base of dark extracted fruit, all wrapped up in a deep and rounded style, rolls along the palate with a pleasant mature fruit sweetness and the tannins are soft, earthy and integrated.

93pts

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We had these lovely wines with a take-out arrangement with a famous Chinese restaurant.

[JamieBahrain]

Quaffers this week included a few bottles of Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2018 which sometimes gets labelled as a true poor man's Barbaresco. Technically, the wine meets the requirements of being labelled as Barbaresco, however, my understanding from an interview with Aldo Vacca, they choose to keep producing this wine as they have done for a number of years. Tradition of sorts I guess.

A few vintages I haven't bought into Aldo's statement that it's Barbaresco quality- 2014 for instance. Sometimes it sits on the cusp between a good Langhe nebbilolo and a classico Barbaresco. Just lacking the depth of the latter. 2018 was very good. Classic cranberry like red fruits with light tar and rose. Full bodied and evenly extracted, elemental and gratifying, soft and inoffensive tannins. 90pts

Vite Colte Barolo Essenze 2013 is from a co-op and I'm pretty sure Monforte fruit. Needed a few days where it showed the sculpture and resonance of the 2013 vintage. It's a full style, black fruits and gentle oak nuance, well balanced in an international style and the tannins are notably grainy yet more than acceptable. 89pts+


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[JamieBahrain]

Musso Barbaresco Pora 2014 en magnum-Certainly not my intention to drink this wine so early, especially in magnum format! However, just running down stocks in case. Musso easily available in Oz.

2014 vintage in Barbaresco may have faired better than Barolo, however, expressions are quite disparate. Not sure where Musso's plots are in Pora, perhaps further up from the River than others. Sunbaked vintage, very even aromatically, just a hint of red fruit sticky-sweet ripeness prior more piercing red and black notes with earth. Dark, ripe and approachable- more flesh will build and I think better drinking few years ahead. Despite presenting ripe and perhaps forward, there's a river freshness in the carry, tannins are spiced, ripe and grainy- heavy limestone evidenced by the calcarous minerality.

93pts+


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[JamieBahrain]

Last night a few of us had a fantastic Zoom event with Alessandro Masnaghetti, the maker of many great winemaps and more recently, the spectacular Barolo 360. After a tutorial on how to get the most out of the website, we moved on to a detailed soil & site brief of Serralunga. We all had a bottle or two of a Cru from Serralunga, and mine was Pio Cesare's Ornato in vintages 2008 and 2011.

Plenty of fascinating snippets, I was warmed to hear Alessandro Masnaghetti state that he felt Ornato undervalued in its new form and is a preferred Cru to Francia ( Giacomo Conterno ) with a better structure.


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Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2008- Over a few days I was very impressed with this wine. Straight up, pop and pour, it delivers classical 2008 in spades! Especially as we start to see the oak wound back a little from the plump 2007 vintage.

Fresh and fragrant, in that classical and Piedmontese preferred vintage expression: dried flowers, red fruit in minerals, and darker violet notes. Just starts to sweat some development with truffle/tobacco of sorts. Layered and calm, sweet extract and long, linear, ripe and earthy tannins.

By day two the wine is Ornato in purity. A powerful wine yet with elegance, don't expect masses of complexity, more simplicity and complete gratification.

95pts



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Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2011- It become more apparent now with the clunky warm 2011 vintage, how Pio Boffa has adjusted wienmaking and the site is expressed in clarity. Starts very dark fruited, aeration drawing lovely shades of raspberry, red licorice and more black notes. Even and layered, time will un-peel more nuance, a sweet tariness in ripe nectarine, tannins spicy, fully ripened and well defined in excellent length.

94pts+

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[Rossco]

2010 Benevelli Pierro Ravera Barolo

Quite shy and muted when first opened, few hours in the Decanter and it started to sing. Also got the zaltos out because they hadnt been used since June…. stupid Melb Stage 4.
Also used the Durand, not because the wine/cork needed it, more because i need the practice.

Licorice root, with tart raspberry jam, fine grained tannin, slight marzipan as well. Quite a medicinal cherry element in there, good stuff. Alpine herbs with some sage. Nice slate type minerals and a hint of purple floral….violets perhaps. It’s very good! Had a bad run with a few older Benevelli corks, but this cork was perfect.
Precision is spot on. The purity and power of those fruits have not subsided with time. Still crystal clear, still has years and years left in the tank, not even reached a plateau yet.

[JamieBahrain]

HKWS Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato Vertical 1985-2011

Location: Another Place
Date: 1st October (Thursday)
Time: 7pm
Price: HK$2200 (plus $100 for non members)
Organiser: Jamie


With the popularity of Barolo & Barbaresco on exponential rise, it is becoming very difficult to assemble meaningful verticals of very popular single vineyard Cru’s. This is a rare and convincing look at Pio Cesare’s Barolo Ornato. A historically prestigious vineyard from Serralunga d’Alba, that produces powerful and long living Barolo- where only considerable cellaring time will drive elegance and nuance. Pio Cesare first bottled Ornato in 1985 from three small plots in the higher portions of Ornato - we have this inaugural 1985 tonight ! We also have a few cameos to break up the vertical. Firstly, a rare bottling of Ornato from 1982 made for an American importer, that sees the experimentation with French Oak barrique, that was considered inappropriate for the future fashioning of Ornato. The wine is Vino da Tavola Ornato 1982 which has a Barbera component. We also have two vintages of Pio Cesare Il Bricco Barbaresco. A lauded wine from their family holdings in Treiso, Barbaresco, where the cool, high vineyard site tussles with the heavily limestoned clay marls to run a tightrope of power and elegance.

Anty Fung of Another Place is still preparing the menu to match our dinner wines. A beautiful Vermentino from the Ligurian Coast from Selvadolce, two Ornatos in magnum format from 1986 & 1993 and finally the 2011 Ornato. 1997 and 2007 Pio Cesare Ornatos are spares- opened if required.

Tasting Wines

Pio Cesare Ornato vino da Tavola 1982

Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1985

Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1986

Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1988

Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1990

Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1993

Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1995

Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2001

Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2004

Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2008

Pio Cesare Barbaresco Il Bricco 1990

Pio Cesare Barbaresco Il Bricco 1993


Dinner Wines

Tenuta Selvadolce Rebosso Bianco Liguria 2018

Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1986 Magnum

Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1993 Magnum

Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2011 750ml x 2

[JamieBahrain]

Pio Cesare's Barolo Ornato. A step away in direction from a very long history of blending fruit from Serralunga ( structure), Castiglione ( fragrance and finesse ) and Monforte ( colour and power ) to produce a consistently eminent Barolo Classico for over one hundred years. A very traditional producer, yet here we see modernist techniques help them producer wines of today's vintages, as they did in long ago vintages according to Pio Boffa ( winemaker/owner ).

Ornato is in good company. The prestigious southern end of Serralunga, the famed western slopes and bordering Giacosa's famed Falletto and not far along from Francia. It has a fully southern aspect. In Serralunga this is cooler than the South-Western exposure and warmer than a South-Eastern exposure. With Giacosa seeing lower plots performing better in warmer vintages in neighbouring Falletto, Ornato seems well positioned with winemaking adaptions and climate change to deliver the special and perhaps underrated wines of recent and in the future. I was pretty to happy to have Alessandro Masnaghetti confirm by thoughts in a zoom event mentioned above last week.


Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1985- This is the inaugural vintage of Ornato. I decanted the wine at home to remove the risk of travel shock with sediments spilling throughout the wine during a journey. Works a treat. I did notice the pigments starting to fall away from the few mil I tried- you see this in very old Barolo ( sometimes producing a white wine ). Wine had been upright for weeks.

Utterly magnificent aromatics- buzzing licorice, tobacco and truffle with intermingling rose decay and field mushrooms. Didn't fade at all and more aromatic complexity built with incense and Asian Spice. Tasters happy just to nose this wine! Very clean, long and delineated. Focused from front to back, minerality and still a gentle fruit tang. There's just a hint of tertiary flavors in a classy conclusion.

Is there evidence of barrique? Not a trace at 35 years.

98pts


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Pio Cesare Ornato Vino da Tavola 1982- There's a long story to this wine and to keep it simple, I'll label it as experimental, using Nebbiolo and Barbera and experimentation with French barrique. Fruit is from Ornato. Ageing 24 months in medium toasted French Oak where Pio Boffa felt Nebbiolo didn't sit well with the barrique whereas Barbera did.

Superb wine considering! Finer aromatically and lacking the depth of Barolo Ornato.Smoke, mushrooms, green pepper and subtle, faded, licorice. Spritly and long, perhaps the barbera adding carry, sweet fruit core holds for a good while and still some grittiness and grip.

94pts


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Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1986- Older wines are all showing a pure, Burgundian like prettiness in the red fruit spectrum. Structure and tension are leaning toward a definite elegance- typically Ornato. The simple tarriness and deep mellow core expected of aged Ornato, is proving a simple expectation, the wines are showing far more complexity than expected.

Hay and menthol and pretty red fruits, faint ash tray and shavings showing, hinting only of long ago barrique. And at this stage, very complimentary, even if not needed originally ( as evolution of Ornato shows ). Medium weighted with pleasing red fruit complexity on the palate, medicinal notes and hay draw even more interest. Clean and fine boned in long length. An often underrated vintage is 86, yet here we see at grand maturity, vintage limitations delivering resolution in harmony and elegance.

96pts


Pio Cesare Barbaresco Il Bricco 1990- Corked. Showing very vertically and extracted- would have been fascinating!


Pio Cesare Barbaresco Il Bricco 1993- It's amazing when ring-ins deliver so convincingly. Here we have a wine blind that screams Barbaresco. We also see the complexity of site, altitude and micro-climate. Fresh mint and herbs, red fruits in potpourri like complexity. Long and powerful, clay like extract yet a supple elegance and suppleness of flavour.

93pts


Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1993- Noted for its lift- red fruits carried in almond and balsamic. Has the advertised Ornato length and grace at maturity. Core of sweet red fruits and spices, orange notes on the edges and perhaps tannins reinforced with a little wood still gently in evidence after all this time.

96pts


Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1995- Corked


Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1988- A good showing although I'm sure much better bottles about. Mint and decay, tar, smoke and minerals with porcini notes eventually drawn out with aeration. Very interesting aromas- though I'm of the opinion it wasn't a well stored bottle. Fruits sits ripe and evolved on the palate, savoury notes with Ornato typical long length and elegance of mood. Clay-mineral extract and grittiness in the carry.

94pts

Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1990- Aromas start rich and refreshingly bright. Perfumed in the class of the greatest of Burgundy. Layered and very typically long, it's hard to say if the rich density of the wine is fully evolved, althought it's in good expression. Spices linger in the carry.

97pts

Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2008- Now we see adolescent Ornato. Site and the winemaker's craft are in evidence. On this showing there's a youthful decadence on show within the classic vintage lines of 2008. Probably due the preceding wines being mature. Consistent over an number of bottles now. Excellent wine. World class bargain at what I paid.

96pts+

Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2011- There's a few notes above on the 2011 vintage of Ornato and again this was consistent. I really like the way we see Pio Boffa evolve his hand and show a warm and expressive vintage of our new millennium. Delineated and fresh, its ripe and dark showing violets and tar, yet it doesn't tire in your mouth and becomes lively with food.

It's really a good idea to know classics from vintages that sell cheap. 2011 Ornato sits in this perch.

94pts+

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Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2004- This was delivered to the venue and not prepared. In effect, popped and poured versus a careful prpeartion of the above line-up with decanter, half decanters and what I felt appropriate in terms of aeration ( max 30 min ) prior a re-pour into a spring water rinsed bottle ( crust removal ) and journey across town to the dinner event.

Earthiness and red licorice, fresh sawn dry cedar and calcarous marl ( Marne of sant 'Agata ).Very powerful wine yet the most austere of the evening. The fruit is still expressive and you see it un-peel at a glacial rate. Preparation of Barolo is critical.

94pts+



Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2001- I'll hunt this vintage. It will be perfect in 10 years! Forceful yet shy, shows the site in its late adolescence of maturity with shades of dark fruits in tar. Red notes add complexity too- rose hip tea and dry florals. Long and powerful; a few years away from the elegance inherent with mature Ornato.

98pts+



Dinner Wines- We returned to the the 1986 and 1993 vintages for dinner wines in magnum. Delightful format and it took the above notes a point higher!

I opened two bottles of 1997 Ornato- one was scalped to myself and a few others or overly developed to the majority ( some who liked it ). The other 97 Was complete and alive, buzzing with fruit vibrancy in the gratifying fruit richness of the vintage.


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[Dragzworthy]

Jamie (and indeed others), you're a wealth of knowledge. May I trouble you for advice?

I have purchased a Guido Porro Barolo 1974. Can you please give me some tips on how to best prepare and serve this wine...?