Sean wrote:94292C8D-C1D3-4262-A635-C3C897B4608F.jpeg
Coldstream Hills Chardonnay 18 - Coldstream Hills is owned by Treasury Wine Estates. I have been thinking about that lately, and what will happen with wineries like this in the “new” TWE if the Penfolds demerger goes ahead. Would things go better or worse for them? It is not the same winery it was back in 1985 when James Halliday started it from nothing - planting vines, building a winery a few years later and made some really good wines for a while there in the 90s. I have the same nostalgia for Seppelt, Wynns and the other TWE wineries (or wine brands as they are now) for that matter, so in the end it might be a moot point. At least it has its own winery. But there is a trade-off for that. They have an annual crush of about 1500 tonnes, half of that is Coldstream Hills and St Huberts wines. They are an offsite winery for others in Yarra Valley and like everyone else in TWE had to ramp up production in recent years. They have more vineyards now around Yarra Valley or Upper and Lower Yarra Valley as they put it. That is a plus because it means they have more grape selection and can vary the picking dates. It also means a lot more of their wines do not come from the “original” Estate vineyard. It has been that way for many years anyway. Are their wines still any good? Well if you go up to the Reserve level, no question the quality is obviously there. A lot of money is being thrown at those wines. To be fair to the winemakers, Andrew Fleming and Greg Jarratt, they have had to stick to their guns to make wines like that. (This is why it is all about the winery and the people, not the wine brand.) But I don’t think I’ve felt excited by any of their wines for a long time. I haven’t been there for a long time, I drive past it and go somewhere else. Maybe I need to do a trip to the cellar door and see if I am wrong about that. Meanwhile I usually buy a bottle of the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir each year. It has been a while since I went long on any of them. Might be a couple of reasons for that. They tend to be pretty much the same each year, which is good I suppose. Again it’s not exciting. Second you have a lot more choice, even perhaps better choice. Rather than 12 bottles of their Chardonnay, you can easily make up a mixed dozen from around Yarra Valley that is much more interesting drinking. So now I come to this wine - Is it any good? Well yes it is actually. The fruit comes from around Yarra Valley. (A lot of very good Chardonnay comes from Yarra Valley for a reason.) Barrel fermented. So it’s not part tank and part barrel - which is all too common with many wineries unless you go to the Reserves. Got 9 months in seasoned and new French oak barrels of various sizes. That oak influence is really good, it is both subtle and persistent. Quality fruit, the oak barrels and hits that sweet spot between lean and rich flavoured Chardonnay that many of us enjoy drinking. That will be the leesy influences and barrel character - not malo. Jancis Robinson said that chardonnay is a nothing grape until you add oak. Well not too much oak in this case. You smell it, taste it and feel it in the wine. It’s understated or measured like everything else about the wine however. Straw coloured and bright. Melon, stonefruit, spicy/almond smelling oak, cashew and sufficient acidity that makes it feel clean and fresh on the palate. Nothing to rave about. But I enjoyed drinking this wine last night. And I’m going to get another bottle or two.
Hi Sean,
Nice commentary to go along with the tasting note. Good to know that Andrew Flemming is still making the wines at Coldstream Hills. Many years ago, when I found a bottle of Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir, I knew I had to have it because of its association with James Halliday. The first book on Australian wine that I read was Hallidays. It was from the weak 2001 vintage so I only bought the one bottle. Many years later I downloaded the winery spec sheet on my 2001 and it said the wine was made from "handpicked grapes from various sites throughout the Yarra Valley", made by Andrew Flemming, and peak drinking should be from 2003 to 2010. As is my custom I generally ignore cellaring guidelines and finally opened it in 2018, about double the recommended cellaring time. Weak vintage or not (they made no reserve pinot that year), and from fruit across the region, the wine was lovely, full of pinot character, and in no danger of falling off anytime soon. If Andrew Flemming is still making their pinot I would recommend buying and not be afraid of giving it plenty of time.
Cheers ...................... Mahmoud.
PS: I don't know much about their chardonnay but if Flemming is making it like the pinot, "made using a variety of handling and fermentation techniques, most borrowed from Burgundy", and my experience with cellaring Australian chardonny, I say go for it and cellar a few bottles.