Barossa Valley "Sideways" Trip Report

[Craig(NZ)]

Back from a quick visit, where we did 10 wineries and 3 breweries in two days

It's been over 21 years and I am not sure how much has really changed. My palate has moved on from the traditional over blown Barossa wines so I was genuinely wondering how many wines I would enjoy. I was pleasantly surprised. Although we did come across some pretty average and overpriced wine, we did strike a larger number of top rank, classy and stylish wines than we expected.

We did Vino Lokal, Turkey Flat, Henschke, Saltrams, Kaesler, Penfolds, Torbreck, David Franz, Rockfords and Turkey Flat

Fermentasian was a lovely experience, and the bottle of Sami-Odi lived very much up to the hype. But apart from that the valley seems light on good places to eat. And, it was cold!! It isn't often you hop off the plane in Auckland after a trip to Australia to feel rush of warm humid air hit you after boarding Australia in the mid teen temperature

I'm not going to write individual notes, but the wines that impressed me in approximate order of rating.

EXCEPTIONAL
2015 Torbreck Run Rig
2015 Henschke Mt Edelstone
2016 Sami-Odi Hoffman Dallwitz Syrah
2015 Penfolds Grange

OUTSTANDING
2016 Kaesler Alte Reben Shiraz
2016 Schwartz Wine Co Loveday Shiraz
2016 Kaesler The Bastard
2017 Hobbs Gregor Shiraz
2016 Henschke Tappa Pass Shiraz
2016 Kaesler Old Vine Shiraz
2016 Henschke The Wheelewright
2016 John Duval Eligo Shiraz
2017 Hobbs Tango Shiraz Viognier

EXCELLENT
2016 Kaesler WOMS
2016 Penfolds St Henri
2016 Turkey Flat The Anscestor Shiraz
2016 Torbreck The Descendant
2016 Sons of Eden Romulus
2016 Sons of Eden Remus
2012 Rockford Black Shiraz
2016 Charles Melton Nine Popes

Thanks for all that gave advice on the itinerary, the guys were very complimentary.

[Mahmoud Ali]

Looks like Kaesler and Henschke stole the show with 4 and 3 out of the top 21, and I reckon if the Hill of Grace was also on tasting (I've heard that it's not) it would be 4 each. I note that nothing from the Saltam stable was worth a mention.

[Craig(NZ)]

I didn't taste the top Saltram's wines. I've tried them all before and didn't feel like paying $30 for a splash of 4 wines. I do like the No 1, and tried 8th maker before which is called something else now that slips my mind. Also that day I was driving so had to pace myself

Tried the 2016 Mamre Shiraz, I did like that although it wasn't in the league of the wines listed above. Not $18 on special anymore though!!

HOG is only available for tasting on the $250 tour and tasting. I've tried HOG many times before, so with 4 of us touring we had better use for $1000

David Franz was disappointing. I wanted to like them, but really they were all rubbish in my opinion. Many served oxidised and had to point it out. New bottles were opened but left disappointed

Torbreck too. Aside from the gorgeous Run Rig and very good Descendant I thought all the wines were complete overpriced rubbish..even the other $100-200 wines. The oak was charry and distracting and I thought the all was out of balance with the extract/ weight

Charles Melton, Rockford and Turkey Flat were all pretty average but with one or two exceptions among their portfolio. Obvious 2017 was difficult. That showed in the Turkey Flat Shiraz which was rubbish next to other vintages I have tried. Shame. The Ancestor too was one of the poorer icon style wines we tried. Still really nice, but fell in the shade vs the star wines from Penfolds, Henschke, Kaeslar, Vino Lokal and Torbreck

I'm harsh and opinionated as you know, but overall I was highly impressed with the style, polish and elegance exhibited in the best wines. They were sensational and I thoroughly enjoyed them helped no doubt by the cold weather we experienced. It was perfect for big rich reds!

[phillisc]

Hoo Fu*king Hooray Craig!!
After Scotty's note of more bite than a chihuahua, the second quote of the year, 'we had better use for $1000'
Have tried the expensive Powell and Sons, The Laird and many vintages of HoG...yes might be OK, but elitist behaviors and overpriced rubbish is where its at for a number of wineries in the Barossa. They will wake up one day. My picks of your wines are the Sami odi, Eligo and St Henri. All three are in the cellar.

Cheers (the Adelaide) Craig

[mjs]

Craig,

I am perhaps a little less cynical than phillisc, yes there are some expensive wines in the Barossa, but places like Torbreck, Ringland, Henschke, Penfolds, Powell & Sons are producing high quality booze. Whether you think they are value for money is up to you, I'm not rushing out to place orders atm, but tastings have been good. We have been to ~90 CDs in the last 8 years, disappointed that David Franz was not so good for you, that was a highlight for us a couple of years ago. A private tasting in Chris Ringland's dining room was also a highlight. However, there is a lot of other really good value stuff that being made atm. Laughing Jack comes to mind. Your list of wines that impressed you are pretty spot on.

There are a number of good food spots, Hently Farm, Fino, 1812, Vintners and Casa Carboni come to mind, although Fermentasian is a favourite.

[JamieBahrain]

HOG is only available for tasting on the $250 tour and tasting. I've tried HOG many times before, so with 4 of us touring we had better use for $1000

Fair enough you've tried it. But the tour and tasting is amazing for those who haven't. I'd done ad hoc private tours a number of times as a Henschke visitor every few months 20 + years ago. A good mate hadn't. So a few years ago, I bought him a tour and afterward we drank a couple of HoG's from my cellar ( 1993/ 1994 ) and it was a fantastic day for him.

I know folks grumble but kudos to Henschke for offering a taste and tour ( of the Gnadenberg vineyard ) for a reasonable cost. If you're selling the wine for $1000 and offering tastings they'll be lined up back to Stott Hwy. The average punter won't get a tour of many of the great vineyards. But at Henschke you can.

Personally, I love the Barossa. There are a number of top restaurants though I would hope for a few more. Grab a six pack from the cellar of old classic Barossa and pay the token corkage. It's amazing. Fill up on local produce which I know many would take for granted ( I pay $8 for a litre of organic milk in Hong Kong )

[Craig(NZ)]

Craig,

I am perhaps a little less cynical than phillisc, yes there are some expensive wines in the Barossa, but places like Torbreck, Ringland, Henschke, Penfolds, Powell & Sons are producing high quality booze. Whether you think they are value for money is up to you, I'm not rushing out to place orders atm, but tastings have been good. We have been to ~90 CDs in the last 8 years, disappointed that David Franz was not so good for you, that was a highlight for us a couple of years ago. A private tasting in Chris Ringland's dining room was also a highlight. However, there is a lot of other really good value stuff that being made atm. Laughing Jack comes to mind. Your list of wines that impressed you are pretty spot on.

There are a number of good food spots, Hently Farm, Fino, 1812, Vintners and Casa Carboni come to mind, although Fermentasian is a favourite.

I have no issue paying big money for a really good wine. My issue is I have way way way too many bottles worth $200+ and as such I am planning not to buy any more. So I shopped mid range in my list above

[Craig(NZ)]

HOG is only available for tasting on the $250 tour and tasting. I've tried HOG many times before, so with 4 of us touring we had better use for $1000

Fair enough you've tried it. But the tour and tasting is amazing for those who haven't. I'd done ad hoc private tours a number of times as a Henschke visitor every few months 20 + years ago. A good mate hadn't. So a few years ago, I bought him a tour and afterward we drank a couple of HoG's from my cellar ( 1993/ 1994 ) and it was a fantastic day for him.

I know folks grumble but kudos to Henschke for offering a taste and tour ( of the Gnadenberg vineyard ) for a reasonable cost. If you're selling the wine for $1000 and offering tastings they'll be lined up back to Stott Hwy. The average punter won't get a tour of many of the great vineyards. But at Henschke you can.

Personally, I love the Barossa. There are a number of top restaurants though I would hope for a few more. Grab a six pack from the cellar of old classic Barossa and pay the token corkage. It's amazing. Fill up on local produce which I know many would take for granted ( I pay $8 for a litre of organic milk in Hong Kong )

We drove to the HOG vineyard. It's a lovely piece of scenery

[Mahmoud Ali]

We drove to the HOG vineyard. It's a lovely piece of scenery

Indeed it is, and the old church adds to the ambiance.

[JamieBahrain]

We drove to the HOG vineyard. It's a lovely piece of scenery

Indeed it is. Always felt sorry for the original immigrants who out of desperation and homesickness named local geographical features after their picturesque homeland ( North Rhine River etc ). The landscape is hard and very Australian.

If you keep driving to the T-junction and left down Lindsay Park Drive, then right up Gawler Rd ( I think ) you find Garden Gully. A small dried fruit production farm with a great shop. I buy kilos of the organic and sulphur free preserves to take home. Angas Park was once the place to go- now its owned by mainland Chinese and locals shunned the place as contents were no longer local and even had foreign products ( yep the fine cadmium soils of China ).

But back to the Hill of Grace tour. Again, any wine lover reading, don't be distracted by the price. It's not time limited. It's a private tour and time in the HofG vineyard is one of many highlights- a HofG and HofR horizonal is fun after the vineyard tour and vine comparisons. Look, if you can get yourself into DRC, Gaja or Mouton, tell Henschke to stick their $250 up their bum. But if you don't, I recommend the tour and kudos to Henschke for offering this tour and helping regional tourism. I think HofG went off cellar door tasting inn the early 90's. If you are a real-jet set, I know my brother in law bought a dinner and private cellar access with Stephen Henschke a few years ago. I must ask him for details.

With insider knowledge, the Barossa Valley is one of the great wine regions IMO. It has a rich history and local culture. Just to anyone reading, don't be afraid to get some tips from auswine types and throw a bit of money about.

[mjs]

From personal experience, I would also recommend the HoG VIP tasting/tour. Yes, you can get the money shot of the rows of vines leading to the Gnadenfrei Church, but the experience is otherwise unobtainable. Seeing the gnarly old dudes in the Grandfather Block for example. We did it a few years ago when it was about $180/pp. There were six of us, I think we drank ~$2k of booze.

[phillisc]

I do yearn for the good old days of Barossa Gourmet Weekends circa 86-90. We started each year at Henschke and never left. 82-86 HoG at $20 a bottle!!
Food was $5-6 a plate...and 4 bottles later time to roll home. Could just imagine now, Food $50 a plate, wine $900 a bottle
Oh well, at least we got the chance to really get stuck in to the early 80s vintages.

Cheers craig

[sjw_11]

I do yearn for the good old days of Barossa Gourmet Weekends circa 86-90. We started each year at Henschke and never left. 82-86 HoG at $20 a bottle!!
Food was $5-6 a plate...and 4 bottles later time to roll home.

OK boomer

So jealous...

[via collins]

Great to see the Sami-Odi up there in the exceptional cut Craig.

Fraser's annual mail-out is one of the most pulse-pounding ones of the year - I've tasted the quality rise year on year, and gee the prices are cracking based on the stellar output. His wines are charming and graceful - and the bottles are real standouts too.

Flat pack cardboard packaging makes the every odd shaped bottles a cinch to store too.

Ripper Fraser!