Sicily and Piedmont trip 2019

[winetastic]

Just kicked off an almost 5 week trip through Sicily and Piedmont, will be taking a bunch of notes to write up later, however if anyone likes to see pictures from along the way: https://www.instagram.com/vinoungrafted/

[Ian S]

I do hope you have some Arancini (singular Arancino) when in Sicily. The perfect morning 'filler' and I suspect perfect for a sore head.

[winetastic]

Back in Australia and over the jet lag, will attempt to write up the whole trip but if it becomes to might I might just stick to the highlights at the Piedmont end.

Overall impressions, Sicily is a madhouse with some amazing wine and food produce. The wine tourism experience tends to be toward paid tastings/tours with some small matched foods, expect around 20 EUR per person.

Barolo in particular is changing fast and becoming more like other touristy wine regions around the world. The opportunities to take a tour with a winemaker or family member are dwindling. Barbaresco is still lagging behind somewhat in this regard, however if you are planning to go I would do so sooner rather than later.

Any tasting notes marked with an * means it was good enough for me to want to buy some, which I guess is the strongest indicator at the end of the day

[winetastic]

First appointment on the north side of Etna was with Cottanera who offer up some good entry level wines (Barbazzale) at sharp prices. Their top end wines felt middle of the pack.

Barbazzale Bianco 2018
95% Catarratto, 5% Viognier. Nose of straw, grass and grapefuit. Creamy texture with cutting acidity, fresh and delicious.

Etna BIanco DOC 2018
100% Carricante. Peach, green apple and white floral characters. Excellent balance, viscous, good length with a hint of citrus.

Barbazzale Rosso 2018
Floral aromas with plum and cherry fruit and damp stone. The mid weight palate shows velvety tannins and a hint of bitter herb, nice acid balance rounds it out, good bistro wine.

Etna Rosso Contrada Diciassettesalme 2018
100% Nerello Mascalese. Nose shows a distinct smokiness, french oak and some floral characters. The palate is rich and mouthfilling (as is appropriate from a cru named Diciassettesalme) with grippy dry tannins on the exit. Excellent quality fruit, personal quibble with the oak treatment.

Etna Rosso Contrada Fuedo di Mezzo 2015
100% Nerello Mascalese. Nose has blackberry, raspberry and bitter herb supported by wet slate and a hint of vanilla. Oak is present on the palate, however despite that still a delicious wine.

Cottanera also make an Etna Spumante from 100% Nerello Mascalese, it was decent bubbles, similar quality to that which you might find from Tasmania, wont be replacing Champagne any time soon.

[winetastic]

I had tried a couple of Franks wines before our trip, however after this visit I will definitely be seeking out more. Caveat: You need to like natural wines to enjoy the entire range, however some bottles are pretty damn clean. Notes were scribbled down while standing in the cellar, so are brief.

Munjebele Bianco 2018 Barrel Sample
Yeasty and reductive. Subtle texture, moderate length and intensity, some grass and subtle citrus.

Susucaru Rosso 2018 Barrel Sample
Blend of various Contradas, entry level red. Very light, almost rose in colour. Strawberry, mineral water, light tannin with a hint of funk on the exit. 2018 vintage looks to be quite variable.

Munjebelle Rosso 2018
Clean inviting nose, light red with a garnet rim, fresh red berries, wild herbs, soft tannin structure, lunch time red.

Munjebelle Rosso 2017
Dark red in colour, slightly closed nose of ash and brooding dark fruits. Rich dark & red fruits on the palate, ash, drying silky tannins, a but if natural funk on the exit. Better vintage.

CS Rosso 2017
Blackberries, sweet blood plums and ash on the nose, wonderful burst of flavour with distinct blood plum and spices. Tannins are firm yet acid leaves palate fresh.

VA Rosso 2017 *
Vigna Alta, 3 vineyard cuvee from higher altitudes around 900m. Raspberry and mineral nose, wow the palate is so fresh and full flavoured, squeaky clean with length for days, soft layers of tannin and a distinct rhubarb flavour on the exit. Note to self, buy some.

[jimv]

Any more to come on Piedmont? I am heading over there in June.

[Ian S]

Need any specific ideas / insight Jim?

Plenty who love Piemonte here, and that includes areas outside the Langhe as well.

[jimv]

Nothing specific Ian, just what ever stood out as a highlight.

[Ian S]

Hi Jim
For me that list would be painfully long, as we've had many holidays in the region. The Langhe is good, and I'm sure will be a focus. The Langheroero.it tourist office is excellent, both in person and their online site. A great resource. Plenty of good agriturismo / b&b / apartments in addition to hotels. If looking for accomodation or a preferred base, just ask and we can pile in with suggestions.

Tastings/visits need to be booked, rather than the Aussie drop-in cellar door model. However this is generally painless, most replying back immediately, others in a few days. The tourist office also set up a booking service, plus lots of accomodation providers will sort stuff out for you, often with friends (the first place we stayed near Barolo offered to book us in at Bartolo Mascarello as they were family friends). I tend to allow 90 minutes for each tasting, plus any travel time to factor in - though I am usually diligent in arrnaging visits in walking distance of each other for flexibility & to enjoy the fresh air.

If you have the chance of a few days in Torino, you could do much worse. Arguably my favourite city, certainly ny favourite big city. Easy to navigate with its grid system, the food is sublime, the wines and coffee top notch, likewise the chocolates (Odilla on via Fratelli Carle - La Crocetta district is my favourite). Plenty of history as the seat of the Savoys, plus the location from which Italy's reunification was organised. Plus the Italian job movie was filmed here making plenty seem familiar.

[winetastic]

Any more to come on Piedmont? I am heading over there in June.

Yes more to come, been swamped since getting back and have not had the time to write it all up yet, however I do have a book filled with notes

Top of my head producer highlights for Piedmont:
Olek Bondonio (Barbaresco)
Nada Fiorenzo (Barbaresco)
Fabio Gea (Barbaresco)
Giuseppe Cortese (Barbaresco)
Oddero (Barolo)
Pugnane (Barolo)
Burlotto (Barolo)
Ca d'Gal (Moscato)

As far as dining goes:
Osteria dell Unione (Resturant, Trieso)
Vinoteca Centro Storico (Wine Bar, Serralunga)
Il Flauto Magico (Restaurant, Serralunga)
Il Falstaff (Restaurant, Verduno)

[Ian S]

Hi Jim
Where are you in planning stage e.g. have you decided where you're staying and for how long? The advice will be better aligned if we know what's already decided, or if you'd like help shaping up a rough plan.
Regards
Ian

[Ian S]

I'm guessing you're getting the news, but just in case, Italy has just moved into a (Corona) 'lockdown'. Flights are being cancelled, people advised not to travel etc. etc. This will I'm sure change at a later point (and other countries may follow suit), but one to watch closely for those booked / planning to go to Italy.