The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread

[JamieBahrain]

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Lots of excitement with La Ca' Nova at the moment. They ably demonstrate the thrill of Piedmont and a producer where quality, though not price, on the upswing. To avoid a letter bomb from the importers, I won't mention cellar door pricing!

Montefico and Montstefano in my experience are the vineyards that excite local drinkers- the villagers of Barbesco. So when I was hunting Asili and Rabaja years ago, it was here the locals were pointing.

Montsefano has the richest calcium marls in Barbaresco and delivers a Barolo- Barbaresco experince. Montefico is similar though its microclimate completely different due exposure to cool breezes which Montstefano doesn't get.

The wines open for three days with a different wine experience each evening.



La Ca' Nova "Montestefano" Barbaresco 2015- After the third day classic Montsefano. Masculine personality throughout and the warm 2015 vintage is delivered in convincing fashion whereby ripeness and balance in unison. Lavendar, minerals and smoke, Wendouree shiraz like, prior dominating dark violets, dark cherry and balsam. Big and considerably layered for a Barbaresco, stunningly well mannered in its brawniness. Even and complete.

94pts+


La Ca' Nova "Montefico Vigna Bric Mentina" Barbaresco 2015- Spicy violet and wild cherry notes. Dense fruited and plump, yet lively and fresh. More palate complexity emerging with nebbiolo dark fruits and fresh tobacco. Both wines have powerful tannins with a dustiness suggesting all will be in place in good time.

94pts+

La Ca' Nova "Montestefano" Barbaresco 2016- Actually had a another bottle that showed an old fashioned 80's expression of Barbesco- a little thin. Over at the winefront there's talk of brett but I'd lean here to mild TCA which leaves a bit of a shell in good nebbiolo.

This has the evenness of superb vintages whereby the aromatics and flavour profile deliver similar. Reductive and dusty blackberry-plum on day one but at its best its almost over-generous in its delivery of ripe licorice all sorts and baked jam tart- Mediterranean herbs and pepper add interest. Its palate thick and perfectly extracted- there's an X-Factor brewing though it needs more time than the 2015's.

95pts+

[Ian S]

Yes, cellar door prices are as cheap as any genuine wineries. I agree the wines are much better than the price. I rather enjoyed my visit there, the estate a short walk from the Commune building, a little ramshackled I suppose, and the visit very relaxed / chilled. One I'd recommend if you're in the area.

[JamieBahrain]

Yes, cellar door prices are as cheap as any genuine wineries.

I'm not sure what you mean by this Ian ? I'd suggest the pricing too cheap. Not wanting to incite a riot on auswine as its not a comment relevant to our market due high taxation. I just feel price increases in Piedmont and reinvestment into the winery could be welcomed even by a consumer.

Their lauded 15's and 16's have been commented on as having brett on the winefront. If true, my case in point.

On brett in their wines, its an interesting topic. Brett in nebbiolo can be masked by the expected vineyard traits of the wines above. My palate too rudimentary to pick up low levels versus critics and industry types.

4-EP Bandaid. Could be the powerful austerity in the wines.I thought it the high calcium soils.

4-EG Smoke and Spice is classic Montstefano in smoke and spice is classic Montefico ( see Aldo Vacca's explanations of the sites )

4-EC Barnyard and Animale shows up as the classic old school rusticity of La Ca Nova.

[JamieBahrain]

HKWS Pio Cesare vs Borgogno tasting 50s-70s


Location: Giando
Date: Thursday September 26, 2019
Time: 7pm



Pio Cesare and Borgogno are household names when it comes to Piedemonte. Both have a long history of producing high quality wines in the region and are famous for their multi-cru blends. Borgogno started in 1761 and Pio Cesare in 1881. Due to this long history and their substantial production it is possible to find find library wines reaching back over several decades. When it comes to decades old Barolo and Barbaresco both producers feature benchmark wine. The Borgogno 1964 Barolo Riserva is one of the most consistent mature high quality Barolos I have tasted and the 1957 Pio Cesare Barolo has at every occasion proven to be one of the best wines I have ever tasted.

This tasting will compare both producers over some of the best vintages from the 50s to the 70s.

Tasting wines:
Pio Cesare
1958 Barolo
1964 Barolo
1964 Barbaresco
1967 Barolo
1974 Barolo
1974 Barbaresco

Borgogno
1958 Barolo
1964 Barolo
1961 Barbaresco
1967 Barolo
1974 Barolo
1974 Barbaresco

Dinner wines: a selection of mature Pio Cesare and Borgogno

Dinner Menu:

AMUSE BOUCHE
******
VITELLO TONNATO
Slow Cook Veal Loin with Italian Tuna Dressing
******
RIGATONI AL RAGU DI VOLATILI
Rigatoni with braised Farm Yard (Duck, Guinea Fowl, Chicken) in light Tomato Sauce
******
GUANCIA DI WAGYU BRASATA AL BAROLO E TAGLIATA DI MANZO
Wagyu cheek braised with Barolo and Grilled Black Angus Sirloin Steak
******
SELEZIONE DI FORMAGGI DI GIANDO
Giando’s Chef Selection of Cheeses


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[JamieBahrain]

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Pio Cesare Barolo 1964- Sun dried fruits, sweet notes, rose decay and fresher licorice emerges. Bracing acidity gives a plesant carry of tertiary flavours, keeps going long into the finish with iron-mineral persistence.

93pts


Borgogno Barolo 1964- Sweet and clean lift of delicate red notes on a base of old smoke and leather. The superb 64 vintage holding up on the palate where the beautiful aromatics are delivered similarly in flavour profile in a long wash of acidity and a clean and long finish.

94pts

Pio Cesare Barbesco 1964- Faded old wine. There's life, a pulse emerges with a whisp of red fruit and orange. Raisny palate in a positve way; bitey long acidity indicating total tannin resolution long ago and not untypical of Barbaresco in this period.

88pts

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Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1961-Stunning bottles about but not here. Pungent and stewy, animale with black fruits in tobacco. Palate is sophisticated- naturally long carry from the acidity that includes and amazing amount of palate flesh. Even and sweet until a last iron-bite of acidity.

93pts

Pio Cesare Barbaresco 1961- Well integrated and holding on for dear life. Nuts, raisins, florals and caramel. Faded palate fruit though I enjoyed pu-er tea notes in the long ride and carry.

88pts

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Pio Cesare Barolo 1958-Blood, iron, floral decay and wet twig. Palate deliver a roll of sweet fruit notes in an old tertiary mix. Long and still fine tannin.

92pts


Borgogno Barolo 1958- Pine and mint high notes. Powerful iron mineral with pleasantly offsetting licorice-truffle. Fruit is complete though not terribly complex - delivering a great old Barolo expression with similar flavour persistence to the scented nose.

95pts


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Borgogno Barolo 1974 Riserva- Red capsule indicates original bottle. Black capsule represents the 20% of annual stock cellared since WW2 and re-released after a heavy-handed top up program that draws many critics. Thus was red capsule and never topped up and it was a FAKE.

NR

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Pio Cesare Barbesco 1974-Old and tired, well past it. Palate does deliver pleasant notes and worthy of a score.

89pts

Borgogno Barbesco 1974- Turgid appearance. Though interesting. Dar, dry fruits, sultanas, dry grass and iron-blood. Big and expansive, well awash with very old wine notes such as ash, leather, stale tobacco. Acid is a river of carry as with most of these old trasures.

93pts

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Pio Cesare Barolo Riserva 1967-Minerals, floral decay, mulch and a fresh underlying aromatic buzz of ashen ndak fruits. Sweet fruits and leather, some tannins persist.

93pts

Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1967- Seaweed, iodine, sweet red fruited lift, and underlying sweet dark fruits and truffle. Very deep and rich blood and bone in extracted dark fruits.


93pts

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[JamieBahrain]

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Needs food these rusty old Barolos.


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We found some treasures from Ben Rye in our cellar! Extraordinary wines

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Yes, perfect for Piedmont.




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Giovanni Scanavino Barolo 1975 was darker and more concentrated than many on the night. From a good and ample fruited vintage, it was a good way to enjoy the evening over a number of bottles.

Out of the picture is a Pio Cesare Barolo 1970 which was scented with iron-berry, walnuts and tar. Very complete and enjoyable. Spicy fruits still kick along on a tannin rise in the finish

[Ian S]

Really appreciate the notes Jamie

FWIW I've found 20th century Borgogno to be one of the more reliable older wines to buy, presumably being firmly four-square in youth, often difficult for a decade or two, but that lengthening the drinking window. A certain prominent ex-poster on Wine Berserkers used to be very critical of Borgogno, but then he was highly opinionated and would treat disagreement as an opportunity for an argument, so I'd never bother discussing the wines with him.

Interested in your reasons for believing the 1974 riserva being a fake (as against a cooked/oxidised bottle).

[Ian S]

Yes, cellar door prices are as cheap as any genuine wineries.

I'm not sure what you mean by this Ian ? I'd suggest the pricing too cheap. Not wanting to incite a riot on auswine as its not a comment relevant to our market due high taxation. I just feel price increases in Piedmont and reinvestment into the winery could be welcomed even by a consumer.

Hi Jamie
There are Barolo/Barbaresco bottlings by cut-pice negociant labels without their own holdings, which I would treat separately from wineries with their own vineyards / winery and hence a long term proposition (that's what the reference to genuine wineries meant)

There is always a balance to be struck on pricing. Some regions/wineries shoot themselves in the foot via aspirational pricing, whereas for some lesser known regions / wines, a little commercial success can help wineries raise their quality aspirations, knowing they may now be able to get a price to justify the reduction in yields, updated equipment etc.

Within a region there will be value and poor value. For me this is very good value, whereas stuff like Aldo Conterno, Borgogno library release are very poor value. If la ca' nova can make a good living at such prices, then I will be a happy buyer (and they've got some leeway on pricing to keep me happy). However there are plenty of wineries that are very much outside of my price range with increases that have happened over the last 2 decades. From the wines you purchase, I suspect this is less of an issue for you, but I'm certainly in the position of many more wineries being too highly priced for me, than the very few who are really good value (like la ca nova).

Regards
Ian

[JamieBahrain]

Fair enough. I agree and I am a value buyer of Piedmont wines ( honestly ) . I just feel many wineries are charging not enough to re-invest into their own business at a time when there's a lot of focus and opportunities. If La Ca Nova is having brett issues, a bonfire of old barrels and investment in the winery, by charging everyone a few extra euros per bottle, could see an even better QPR?

On the "fake" 1974 Borgogno Riserva. I called it and then many agreed. I've had the wine before and then showed others tasting notes from CT. The colour was the giveaway. It was like it was from barrel! Incredibly bright and beaming red. An American importer who brought the wine into the USA commented the colour was like nothing he's seen from this wine- his only plausible guess was very cold storage. Though if he tasted it he'd realise it something else at play. It was like a very average wine well pasted it- a gently fortified village barbera.

My theory is someone has refilled the bottle with plonk.

[Ian S]

FWIW I like a little brett in many wines (surely earning me a ban from this site ). Hence I'd see its complete elimination as a negative, not a positive. Vive la difference.

Yes a youthful red colour on a 1974 nebbiolo based wine is either a thing of amazing joy or deeply concerning. However the advantage of such a vibrant colour in identifying fakes, is the wine isn't clouded by oxidation / other issues. Even on a wine with good colour, you'd expect a strong band of orange at the rim. If that's not there, then Barbera is an obvious suspect. In addition a miracle 45 year old wine would be expected to have more clearly recognisable similarity with the house style. It's the old crumbly ones which are harder to place.

[JamieBahrain]

Yes, a little brett is never more controversial than Down Under. But brett was the simplest example of many I could have used as to why it may be a good thing if Piedmont producers increase the prices of their wines.

In the example here we are talking about a Premier Cru like Barbaresco being sold for just under $30 AUD. That's a winery being run like a farm, or on the 70's notion when there was still no running water in some parts of the famous winery townships, that the only good bottle of wine a sold one!

It could be a good thing for the region, generationally, if more smaller wineries and the region as a whole moved ahead in a business fashion. If they don't they'll just sell out to foreign interests and their kids can move out of the region as has happened elsewhere.

They will also lose out if, as a region, they do not up their quality overall ( helped by price increases ) as the wine world looks for the next big thing. It's purported to be Piedmont at the moment but how can it be? With $30 AUD 1er Cru Barbresco and Barolo? The attention on Piedmont is a micro-market of Grand Cru rated wines. The region can pursue a good handful of the international premium market and its economic windfalls for the future, or it can sit where it is now, vulnerable more than ever to shocks like 2008, and seeing other areas such as Australia, Etna and Tuscany locally, dominating large emerging markets like China.

Had a long chat to folks yesterday on this topic. Over a big glass of Vajra's Barolo Albe 2014 in the new-norm of people drinking young Barolo and Barbaresco- partly an acceptance and partly winemaking as even big tannins can be harmonious if gently extracted. Nobody even commmented on the Barolo being too young whereas seasoned Piedmont drinkers like myself are thinking which decade ahead will it be best in?

I appreciate not all will subscribe to any of these viewpoints but we are just a tiny piece in the market puzzle. Bigger pieces being international collectors and even bigger the luxury product group.

[Ian S]

Hi Jamie
We may disagree, but I appreciate you giving a thorough explanation of your thinking

As for drinking young, I think there are 2-3 additional factors at play:
1) Many Barolo/Barbaresco wines do drink very well whilst the fruit is still vibrant and forward. The danger period is where tannins are strong, the fruit subsides, and the wine tightens up, (hopefully) to emerge later on
2) That said, many have worked on taming the tannins, be that later picking or in the winery. Warmer weather has also played a part in taming the tannins. These days many wines never really shut down to the point of undrinkability.
3) Drinking younger wines with food that can tame the tannins, making a closed wine more appealing and a tight wine more enjoyable.

0) Lighter vintages can also work well e.g. 2002 had some charming little wines. Some warmer vintages (e.g. 2007) seemed to offer elongated early drinking as well

Regards
Ian

[JamieBahrain]

Hi Jamie
We may disagree, but I appreciate you giving a thorough explanation of your thinking

I'd be intrigued what your views on a direction for Piedmont would be Ian. As a regular visitor you'd be aware of the issues a little more elevated than brett ( for some )

I'm there on Tuesday. My expectations of Monforte are of exciting producers up and coming and a preservation of some pretty superb dining experiences.

[Ozzie W]

2005 AR.PE.PE. Valtellina Superiore - Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse

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Nebbiolo from the Alps @ 450-550m. 13% ABV.

A good decant seems to be a pre-requisite for this producer, even for older bottles than this. Every time I've tried an Ar.Pe.Pe, it starts off rather thin and simple. But after 30 minutes in a decanter it begins to blossom and with further air time it tuns into something rather wonderful. It's an interesting feminine expression of Nebbiolo that's more subtle and elegant than those from Barbaresco. Think Chambolle-Musigny meets Barbaresco.

Violets, ripe black fruits, strawberry, sour cherry, orange, liquorice, roasted cashews, pomegranate molasses, crushed rocks, alpine herbs, forest floor. High acid, but balanced by the sweet fruit. High tannins add a lovely depth and structure to the very long finish.

Irresistible drinking now, but I will try and keep my hands off my other bottle. I would love to try this with another 5-10 years on it.

My favourite Nebbiolo producer outside Piedmont.

[JamieBahrain]

On the way to my accommodation in Monforte, the Tower of Barbaresco was too welcoming not to stop and have a glass or two of 2016 Barbaresco.

It’s a beautiful day. The Tanaro River providing a cool maritime freshness as it does in the vineyards below .

Kicking off with a glass of Boffa’s 2016 Barbaresco Paje which is exhilarating in its elegance and immediacy . Clean fruit delineation throughout - fruit ripeness is intense with a countering freshness I haven’t seen before in Barbaresco . Flavour profile similar . And why cellar? How could it get better in a tertiary sense ? A wine to convert a generation onto Nebbiolo .

94pts

Alba’s closed until 3pm - I’ll sit around and I can’t resist their 2016 Barbaresco Ovello. There’s that vintage 2016 intense fruit ripeness , plums, cherry , red florals in lavender. Palate is classic Ovello with power and austerity from the heavy marls whilst loaded with cooked sweet red fruit flavours in sweet herbs . Lingering firm earthy tannins.

93pts+


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Overlooking Cavanna Cru from the Boffa balcony.

[Rossco]

Do you know if Boffa is available in Australia Jamie?

[Ozzie W]

Do you know if Boffa is available in Australia Jamie?

I've seen the Normale around the traps -- 2013 and 2015 vintages. Not sure if anyone brings in the Cru's.

[JamieBahrain]

Rossco I’m unsure . Hook in to any 16’s by the look of it though.

[Rossco]

Do you know if Boffa is available in Australia Jamie?

I've seen the Normale around the traps -- 2013 and 2015 vintages. Not sure if anyone brings in the Cru's.

Yeah thats what Im finding Oz. Some older vintages but no Cru's and no 2016's as yet.

Should PM Franco and get boccaccio on the case

[Rossco]

Rossco I’m unsure . Hook in to any 16’s by the look of it though.

Yep, everything im hearing and reading says go large on 2016's.
Looks like you are having a wonderful time Jamie, need to get over there one day!

[winetastic]

Overlooking Cavanna Cru from the Boffa balcony.

Such a great view and lovely people at Boffa. The wines are excellent value and quality has been on the rise over the last 5-6 vintages or so.

Will be there ourselves in a few weeks, cant wait.

[JamieBahrain]

I’ve arrived for a quick stay at Monforte. Hopefully I’ll get a few wineries in but I’m a slow paced tourist preferring to experience the atmosphere of a medieval wine town such as Monforte d’Alba.

http://www.manzonegiovanni.com/

Manzone is a good consideration to look at the area . They are small, very affordable and present over a number of famous Cru’s.

After a quick shower at my apartment in Monforte it’s off to the winery for a tasting with Mauro.

Manzone is another producer that puts to rest the simplicity of the modernist / traditionalist debate . I can’t quite nail their oak regime but they are self-declared traditionalists, minimal interventionists and traditional winemaking , with a modern winery.

Barolo Castelletto 2015- Beautifully ripened fruit with cliche tar and roses and Turkish Delight chocolate notes arising from sweet strawberry/raspberry fruit and spice. This ripeness carries on the palate edges with the wine being long and gently muscular . Lots of joy inside of a decade with 2015 though no doubting cellaring potential .

93pts

Barolo Bricat 2015 is from the top of the Gramolere vineyard, a Cru within as Cru picked only in exceptional vintages .

This is bigger than the 2015 Castelletto despite Gramolere elevation and soil composition usually delivering a more elegant expression.

Concentrated dark tar masking deeper buried red fruit notes, less showy and more retrained than the Castelletto 2015. Latent potential in a powerful yet elegant and long structure- tannins Monforte ripe and firm .

94pt+

Gramolere Barolo 2014- locals are far less critical of the vintage than the rest of the market .

Distinctly perfumed here, cool and classic high notes , lovely tar nuances more open toward an old vintage car engine- rose petals too. Classical austerity , a little lean, time and food will flesh out the wine with raspberry vanilla cream fruit notes .

91pts


Gramolere Riserva 2011- Ripe and perfumed berry mix, deeper Cadbury’s Turkish Delight notes with sweetened walnuts . A very giving wine, rounded and fully loaded with generous Nebbiolo fruit concentrated rather than palate spread - a nice energy keeps interest and freshness .

93pts

Gramolere Riserva 2008- This classic vintage pairs perfectly with Manzone’s house style . Has the ripened fruit notes of Gramolere above though with cool and mineral overtones. Palate is similar - elegant and long - with red fruit focus and delineation beam like. Old fashioned Monforte tannins flood the back palate .

96pts

Gramolere Riserva 1993- vintage engine oil and spiced , well tamed red and black fruit notes . Wove is carried by a calcareous austerity , flavour profile similar to aromatics clings at the edges , light grip in persisting tertiary notes .

95pts

Castelletto Barolo 2007- Excellent plump-ripe amalgamation of red and black fruits with tertiary tobacco like development suggesting it’s in window . Delivered on a long structural package , savoury with mineral undertones, lacks fruit stuffing though food will draw less critics .

92pts

Gramolere Barolo 2010- this is in a lock down but there is still enough to see of its high quality . Black pepper and dry spices , red fruit and tar in a classic mix, compelling structure and balance. Obviously unyielding though with glamorous potential !

94pts +


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Hard to tell much here from 2018 though a step up from 2017 . Love the hard Piedmont cheeses !


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Overall, a visit to Manzone, the highest rating I could recommend for a genuine lover of Barolo .


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Looking toward Castiglione, from the cellar door , overlooking Perno Cru . They will eventually make an individual Barolo from here. I have Perno in my cellar from other producers like G Macarello and I feel Mazone will fit nicely with their style .

[Ozzie W]

Yep, everything im hearing and reading says go large on 2016's.

I've purposely avoided purchasing 2015 Barolo/Barbaresco... only bought 10 bottles to date, turning down most of the offers I receive. 2015 is a great vintage, but 2016 is even greater by all accounts. I plan to buy a lot of 2016's.

[winetastic]

I've purposely avoided purchasing 2015 Barolo/Barbaresco... only bought 10 bottles to date, turning down most of the offers I receive. 2015 is a great vintage, but 2016 is even greater by all accounts. I plan to buy a lot of 2016's.

Wise. Have tasted both vintages widely both from as barrel samples and finished wines, 2015 is good to very good in my opinion, 2016 for my personal tastes is better than 2010.

[JamieBahrain]

15’s such beautiful wines . I have a lot already.

Maybe we have an offline in 15 + years 15 v 16 ..

[winetastic]

15’s such beautiful wines . I have a lot already.

Maybe we have an offline in 15 + years 15 v 16 ..

Ill put it in the calendar

[Rossco]

I've purposely avoided purchasing 2015 Barolo/Barbaresco... only bought 10 bottles to date, turning down most of the offers I receive. 2015 is a great vintage, but 2016 is even greater by all accounts. I plan to buy a lot of 2016's.

Wise. Have tasted both vintages widely both from as barrel samples and finished wines, 2015 is good to very good in my opinion, 2016 for my personal tastes is better than 2010.

See I have a dilemma at the moment as to 2015's vs 2016's

Do I hold off on 2016's because of how good they are or do I buy up all the 2015's I can now?

Reason I ask is im worried that due to the hyped vintage (and other reasons Jamie has mentioned already), wineries may take the opportunity to jack up the prices of their 2016 releases.

This increases the middle man markup as well.

BUT (and this this the big unknown) I dont know what the exchange rate will do when they are released. Aus $$ keeps going down and down and
this will increase the 2016 costs as well.

Right now the 2015's are (mostly) in Aus, freight, currency and markups all accounted for and im seeing some pretty good deals.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

[Ozzie W]

I've purposely avoided purchasing 2015 Barolo/Barbaresco... only bought 10 bottles to date, turning down most of the offers I receive. 2015 is a great vintage, but 2016 is even greater by all accounts. I plan to buy a lot of 2016's.

Wise. Have tasted both vintages widely both from as barrel samples and finished wines, 2015 is good to very good in my opinion, 2016 for my personal tastes is better than 2010.

See I have a dilemma at the moment as to 2015's vs 2016's

Do I hold off on 2016's because of how good they are or do I buy up all the 2015's I can now?

Reason I ask is im worried that due to the hyped vintage (and other reasons Jamie has mentioned already), wineries may take the opportunity to jack up the prices of their 2016 releases.

This increases the middle man markup as well.

BUT (and this this the big unknown) I dont know what the exchange rate will do when they are released. Aus $$ keeps going down and down and
this will increase the 2016 costs as well.

Right now the 2015's are (mostly) in Aus, freight, currency and markups all accounted for and im seeing some pretty good deals.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

All perfectly valid concerns, more so if you're only starting to cellar Barolo/Barbaresco. I missed the boat with Burgundy for similar reasons. If that scenario were to play out, I don't think a single year of price rises will completely price me out of the market (it took a few years with Burgundy). Plus, I can always sell some bottles of Aussie Shiraz at auction which have appreciated significantly (e.g. 2010 Penfolds St Henri) to fund it.

[JamieBahrain]

Previously I was locked into vintage fixation . One thing I noticed abroad is releases staggered especially considering riservas - there’s always something to buy .

I just buy as much as I can now for long retirement So I buy as much Barolo , Barbaresco and $AUD S I can every month . All bargains in my view .

Case in point , just received an email from Sandrone offering a new Barolo Vite Talin from the lauded 2013 vintage

[Ian S]

Hi Jamie
We may disagree, but I appreciate you giving a thorough explanation of your thinking

I'd be intrigued what your views on a direction for Piedmont would be Ian. As a regular visitor you'd be aware of the issues a little more elevated than brett ( for some )

I'm there on Tuesday. My expectations of Monforte are of exciting producers up and coming and a preservation of some pretty superb dining experiences.

Hi Jamie
At its simplest level, I'm more disappointed about the speed at which many labels have escalated in price such that I couldn't contemplate buying them. With the Galloni hype machine, some wines I've enjoyed at reasonable prices, are now at stratospherically stupid prices. Some quite ordinary wines have enjoyed the reflected benefit of the hype machine and are (IMO) overpriced without any apparent uplift in quality. Even the like of Produttori del Barbaresco have seen price elevations that have taken them from very good value to merely decent value. I do not think the wines any better than 10-20 years ago, indeed I find them a little more forward, which is not what I'm seeking. Not all 'improvements' / 'advancements' live up to the promise.

I've seen change to the two villages of Barolo and Bsarbaresco, of increased tourism, investment in attracting more mainstream tourists, and a desire in some wineries to position themselves as the 'prestigious elite'. Compare that to the experience I had when visiting Lorenzo Accomasso, someone who epitomised the 'wine farmer' model, and whose approach is at odds with the slick marketing that has come into the region. The more the prices go up, the more marketing becomes vital, the more people buy and cellar for profit and not drinking pleasure, the more land prices rise to the point that locals can't afford to buy land / are persuaded to sell to foreign investors (not all of whom have a clue about winemaking / the region).

I do think we are at the very opposites of opinion on this. I appreciate hearing your views, but I doubt we will find as much common ground as we will on other subjects.

Regards
Ian