TN: Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne 2010

[Waiters Friend]

This is the 'reserve' bottling, exclusively from vines planted in 1927. The 'standard' model comes from a range of plantings.

Pale yellow in colour, much lighter than I expected for a 9 year old wine. Intense nose of honeysuckle, lanolin, and a lick of lemon peel. Wonderfully balanced palate with lemon pith, more honeysuckle, and slight honey/toast. Good but not sharp acid keeps some freshness to the wine, while the intensity and richness is also retained.

This seems as if it is in the early stages of development, similar to a 5 year old of the 'standard' Tahbilk Marsanne, but with more fruit purity and intensity. Plenty of time yet.

[Mahmoud Ali]

NIce to see a note on this wine. We get the regular bottling of the marsanne here in Canada but not 1927 Vines as far as I know. However I did manage to get a hold of the 1998, the very first vintage, when a bottle popped up at a suburban Vintage Cellars many years ago and I brought the bottle back home. It may be time to consider opening thew bottle now that it is two decades old.

Mahmoud.

[Rossco]

I have some 2003's that are just starting to come around and enter their drinking window. Still have
a long life ahead of them.

[GraemeG]

NIce to see a note on this wine. We get the regular bottling of the marsanne here in Canada but not 1927 Vines as far as I know. However I did manage to get a hold of the 1998, the very first vintage, when a bottle popped up at a suburban Vintage Cellars many years ago and I brought the bottle back home. It may be time to consider opening thew bottle now that it is two decades old.

Mahmoud.

Good luck. I had a '98 too, which turned very dark within a few years of purchase. predictably enough, it was thoroughly oxidised by the time I got around to drinking it.
I think they've been in screwcap since the '03 vintage. And much better for it...
Graeme

[George Krashos]

I've got a few of these for my youngest's birth year. Looks like they'll be perfect for her 21st.

[GraemeG]

I seem to have a bunch of notes on this particular bottling:

• [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=5904800]2010 Tahbilk Marsanne 1927 Vines[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes (8/07/2016)
  [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=32952]2016 Sydney Royal Wine Show - Exhibitor's Tasting & Trophy Wines Lunch (Olympic Park, Homebush)[/url]: (trophy 97p) {screwcap, 11.5%, A$45} Trophy for Best Other White, and the only entry to pick up a gold over a couple of relevant judging classes. Was also served at the lunch; see other note. Always an aged release; the winery is still selling the 2008, so this is an advance look. The nose id beautifully grassy, with lanolin and a nod of earthy minerality. It’s not young, although hardly developed. Although the flavours follow the nose, and with some density and impression, it still never exceeds medium weight, and fairly dances on the tongue. Impeccable balance and a medium/long dry finish. Really lovely wine. A deserving winner. The lunch tasting just confirmed everything, and was a great advertisement for the screwcap as a seal.
• [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=5904848]2010 Tahbilk Marsanne 1927 Vines[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes (8/07/2016)
  [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=32952]2016 Sydney Royal Wine Show - Exhibitor's Tasting & Trophy Wines Lunch (Olympic Park, Homebush)[/url]: (trophy – best other white; 97p) {screwcap, 11.5%, A$45} In broad character, this wasn’t unlike a Hunter Semillon. It was wonderfully consistent with the morning tasting. Beautifully balanced, with perfectly –judged medium-level acid, weight, lightly grainy texture. Same honeyed/yellow fruit flavours as before, lots of mid-palate mresence, and long, balanced finish. Still pale in colour, has a sense of being able to age forever. I was surprised to see this at the lunch; I don’t think Tahbilk make all that much of it. Anyway, just wonderful.
• [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=4190126]2008 Tahbilk Marsanne 1927 Vines[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes (14/02/2014)
  [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=24196]2014 Sydney Royal Wine Show - Exhibitor's Tasting & Trophy Wines Lunch (Homebush & Four Seasons Hotel)[/url]: [gold medal] {screwcap} Gorgeous honeysuckle and lanolin aromas. The palate is dry and woolly, seemingly light-fruited with waxy flavours, but it builds on the mid-palate to medium-bodied weight and finishes long and even, carried by fresh acid. A remarkable blend of youth and development culminates in a long, dry, absorbing finish. Really excellent wine (even if this note doesn’t convey that properly). I think the challenge with these Tahbilk bottlings is working out when the wines are at a peak and when they are in a dumb phase. An excellent example of the oldest Marsanne vines on the planet.
• [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=4190125]2007 Tahbilk Marsanne 1927 Vines[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes (14/02/2014)
  [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=24196]2014 Sydney Royal Wine Show - Exhibitor's Tasting & Trophy Wines Lunch (Homebush & Four Seasons Hotel)[/url]: [gold medal] {screwcap} Lovely aging marsanne aromas of beeswax and furniture polish. The palate is surprisingly fresh, with medium body and acidity, juicy in flavour, with some thickness of texture; an even presence along the palate, and with a balanced, dry, medium-length finish. Aging nicely; today lacks the impressive sparkly of the 2005, but I doubt there’s need to be concerned about the potential of this.
• [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=5747312]2006 Tahbilk Marsanne 1927 Vines[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes (6/06/2016)
  [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=32172]NobleRottersSydney - 2006 in Oz (360 Bar & Dining, Sydney)[/url]: {screwcap, 10.5%} {Glenn} Surprisingly pale lemon/straw colour for something a decade old. The nose is quite developed, smelling of smoke, dust earth, even oak (which is deceptive ; there’s none here). The palate has both grassy and nutty (not oxidised) flavours, with even a nod to sherry, yet it’s crisp in texture, with a sandpapery/grapeskin aspect too. Medium acid, medium body. Overall, still a bit reticent; suggests it’s a long way off maturity yet.
• [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=3389840]2006 Tahbilk Marsanne 1927 Vines[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes (15/02/2013)
  [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=20719]2013 Sydney Royal Wine Show - Exhibitor's Tasting & Trophy Wines Lunch (homebush & Darling Harbour)[/url]: [Bronze medal] {screwcap} Lovely, developing nose of beeswax and lanolin. Augers well, but despite the pleasant flavours (see aromas) they all seem to sit right on the tip of the tongue, distorting the structure somewhat. There’s medium acidity, but this is only really light-medium bodied, with something of a short finish. Disappointing; I was expecting better. Time might help, but this doesn’t really hit the spot at the moment. Wait & see.
• [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=3389842]2005 Tahbilk Marsanne 1927 Vines[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes (15/02/2013)
  [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=20719]2013 Sydney Royal Wine Show - Exhibitor's Tasting & Trophy Wines Lunch (homebush & Darling Harbour)[/url]: [Silver medal] {screwcap} Some waxy aromas. Similar to the 2006 on the nose. The palate is a different story; there’s still some grassy lemon freshness to the flavours, medium acidity and medium body. Dry, talcum powder-like texture (no oak, though). This has a long savoury finish; way better than 2006. This is the one to drink and keep. If current winery practice stands, this ought to be for sale some time in 2015, by which time it will probably be quite ready for consumption.
• [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=4190113]2005 Tahbilk Marsanne 1927 Vines[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes (14/02/2014)
  [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=24196]2014 Sydney Royal Wine Show - Exhibitor's Tasting & Trophy Wines Lunch (Homebush & Four Seasons Hotel)[/url]: [trophy – best other white varietal] {screwcap} Developing nose of wax, toast & honey. Mango & smoke flavours on the medium-bodied palate too; but it’s all very polished & reserved. Could easily fool you into thinking it’s seen oak, given the filled-out richness of the palate. A long line of flavour down the tongue culminates in a long, dry finish. Hugely impressive wine. Is on sale direct from the winery right now for $40 and I gotta say I think it’s worth it. Outstanding.
• [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=2665098]2005 Tahbilk Marsanne 1927 Vines[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes (17/02/2012)
  [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=17242]2012 Sydney Royal Wine Show - Exhibitor's Tasting (Olympic Park, Homebush)[/url]: {screwcap} There’s a little development apparent here in the grass and melon aromas. The palate is lifted by a medium-high level of acid, which aids freshness and helps the medium-bodied weight; there’s almost a powdery tannic touch to the flavours which are a bit indeterminate just now. Medium-long finish of melon-like fruits, totally dry, and evenly spread in its impact along the tongue. Pretty tidy wine which needs more time.
• [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=1932852]2004 Tahbilk Marsanne 1927 Vines[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes (18/02/2011)
  [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=13244]2011 Sydney Royal Wine Show - Exhibitor's Tasting (Olympic Park, Homebush)[/url]: Silver medal {screwcap} Relatively restrained nose of soft honeysuckle and white-flower fruits. The palate is very acidic and doesn’t taste 7 years old; there are greasy-textured grapey fruit flavours with a tangy sweetness to them. It’s medium-full bodied with lots of intensity and a quite long finish too; I was hugely impressed until I got to the 2003 vintage! Side-by-side, I think this is nearer its peak, and is a bit more flamboyant and obvious. Very good wine on its own, but I see why the judges pointed the 03 vintage higher.
• [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=2665096]2004 Tahbilk Marsanne 1927 Vines[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes (17/02/2012)
  [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=17242]2012 Sydney Royal Wine Show - Exhibitor's Tasting (Olympic Park, Homebush)[/url]: Bronze medal. {screwcap} Developing aromas of grass and hay, with a thick greasiness about them somehow. Phenolic palate of honeydew flavours; medium acid, medium body. Sits rather on the front palate, manages a medium length finish but lacks a bit of excitement overall.
• [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=1932853]2003 Tahbilk Marsanne 1927 Vines[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes (18/02/2011)
  [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=13244]2011 Sydney Royal Wine Show - Exhibitor's Tasting (Olympic Park, Homebush)[/url]: Gold medal {screwcap} Similar peach/honeysuckle aromas to the 2004 vintage, but wearing a more restrained expression. Acid is a little soft but holds up the developing fruits. Lacks the overt drama of the 2004, but with medium-bodied weight and a medium length finish seems to have greater integrity, and in the end better quality than the 2004. I think ultimately this will age longer and hit a higher peak than the younger wine. Hock into the 04s and keep these for later.
• [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=2665099]2003 Tahbilk Marsanne 1927 Vines[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes (17/02/2012)
  [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=17242]2012 Sydney Royal Wine Show - Exhibitor's Tasting (Olympic Park, Homebush)[/url]: {screwcap} So much for consistency among show judges; this very wine picked up a gold medal here last year but managed a mere 14.8/20 this time around. I still think this is the best of the three vintages on offer here today. Developing aromas of grass and melon. White-flesh fruits fill out the palate; it has medium acid and medium-weight, and a medium-long finish. Rich and interesting. Tahbilk Marsanne at its finest. I suspect this is the first vintage of this wine under screwcap. Hooray for that.
• [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=1562120]1999 Tahbilk Marsanne 1927 Vines[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes (22/06/2010)
  {cork, 12%} Mid gold, but still shot with swirling green tinges. Fascinating to observe. The nose is aged; honeysuckle, beeswax, lanolin and hezelnut aromas shimmer before you. The palate is developed, certainly, medium-full bodied, oak-free but with a thickish texture (although not lacking acid spine). Not oxidised, but clearly aging. The persistent finish covers all the palate; a triumphant example of what Marsanne can do. In no danger of fading, although I’m a little puzzled where it might still go from here. Drink over 10 more years.
• [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=5844448]1998 Tahbilk Marsanne 1927 Vines[/url] - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes (1/08/2016)
  [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=32640]NobleRottersSydney - Single Vineyards (360 Bar & Dining, Sydney)[/url]: {cork, 13%} {Graeme} Inaugural vintage of this special, ancient vine cuvee (oldest Marsanne vines in the world?). Sadly, I watched this steadily turn darker in the cellar from the moment I bought it. Sure enough, the solid gold colour precedes a palate which is sherried and nutty, pithy and sweaty. There is still some acid here, and it’s the shell of a great wine. But only the shell; the rest has to be up to your imagination. Thanks, cork. NR (flawed)

[Dang]

Thanks Graeme for the notes.
I must be the luckiest guy sometime because the other day I walked into my usual winestore (one of the bigger ones in Calgary) and found three 2008 T1927VM on the shelf with the price of a standard Tahbilk Marsanne (less than CAD20). The manager told me that nobody knows much about this wine and he wanted to get rid of them. I guess it pays to live in this neck of the woods! Thanksgiving and Xmas coming up, so watch out 1927 VM, supposed to be great with Saskatchewan pickerel.
Cheers ...

[Waiters Friend]

Excellent notes indeed, Graeme. I have a few of the vintages you quoted and it's interesting to see how they appear at different ages. That's part of the fascination, I suppose. The standard Tahbilk Marsanne is no slouch on the ageing front, but the 1927 seems to stretch the ageing potential even further .

[Ian S]

A single bottle of the 2003 (1927 vines) here. I'd buried it for the long haul, so good to see it's approaching maturity (albeit it sounds like there is clear upside still)

[Mahmoud Ali]

NIce to see a note on this wine. We get the regular bottling of the marsanne here in Canada but not 1927 Vines as far as I know. However I did manage to get a hold of the 1998, the very first vintage, when a bottle popped up at a suburban Vintage Cellars many years ago and I brought the bottle back home. It may be time to consider opening thew bottle now that it is two decades old.

Good luck. I had a '98 too, which turned very dark within a few years of purchase. predictably enough, it was thoroughly oxidised by the time I got around to drinking it.
I think they've been in screwcap since the '03 vintage. And much better for it...

That is disappointing to hear Graeme. My only experience with aging a Tahbilk Marsanne was with a bottle of 1992 and I opened it in 2006, so fully 14 years old. I was expecing the 1998 from the older vines to last longer.

Mahmoud.

[GraemeG]

The regular bottling has offered mixed results for me under cork. Looking back at my notes for this (33 of them!) I note that the 1988 was on the downslope in 2004, the 1998 was at the end of its life in 2016, and a 2002 was seriously oxidised in 2011.
On the other hand, the 92 looked OK in 2001, three 1999s across 2004/05 offered one dud and two good examples. Once the screwcap arrived with the 2003 vintage there have been no obvious collapses. Some vintages are better than others (oh, derrr) - I haven't found greatness in 2008 or 2011 - but otherwise things look pretty good.
Graeme

[Waiters Friend]

We did a vertical tonight of the 'standard' Marsanne 2018-2006. Write up to follow, but a surprisingly good result. Admittedly all wines were under screwcap.

[Mahmoud Ali]

The other day, while looking for a particular Sicilian red, I came across my 1998 Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne in a carton of cellared Australian whites. This looks slightly compromised. As you can see from the photographs the colour has turned a golden yellow, though not as dark as the 1992 regular marsanne at 14 years that I mentioned above. As with that one, the level has dropped to the lower neck/high shoulder and there has been some seepage under the capsule that is slightly sticky to the touch. Unlike my All told I thought it might be wise to pull this one out for near term consumption, maybe near Christmas.

I've taken two pictures, one with sunlight and another under a lamp in an attempt to show the colour but neither is truly representative.

[GraemeG]

Mahmoud, that looks very familiar to my bottle of 98 as far as colour goes. My level was better, and there was no sign of leakage (cork was fairly wet though) but the thing was still just a memory of what it should have been.
Work your way through a glass and cook with the rest.
GG

[Waiters Friend]

It looks like I may need to open my bottle of 2000 sooner rather than later. Let's face it, 19 years (or in your case 22) is probably pushing the boundaries of expectation a little. Let us know what it is like.

[Mahmoud Ali]

Allan, if it's any consolation, the 2016 Jeremy Oliver guide has a drinking window of 2012 to 2020 for your '00 1927 Vines Marsanne and is color-coded as "Will Improve" so you may well be in a good place with your bottle.

Meanwhile he gives my '98 a window of 2006 to 2010+ and color coded as "Possibly Too Old". Oops.