HKWS Jim Barry Armagh Vertical

[JamieBahrain]

HKWS Classic Australia Jim Barry Armagh Vertical

Location: Another Place, 5F, Block C, Seaview Estate, Watson Road, Fortress Hill

Date: Thursday 25th July

Time: 7pm

Price:


Organiser:




***********************
We have another one-off chance to consider a terroir driven, Australian wine, following on from previous Classic Australian events including Hill of Grace, Rockford Basket Press, St Henri and John Riddoch. Courtesy of the late Barry Burton’s cellar, we have virtually unobtainable vintages due to scarcity and cost - with multiple bottles of 1990 and 1991 Armagh Shiraz permitting relaxed consideration and assessment as dinner wines!

It was 1985 in the Clare Valley. A government vine pull scheme saw the bulldozing of vineyards due to waning demand. Family winemakers Jim Barry wanted to make a single vineyard expression of Clare Valley Shiraz conceptually similar to Hill of Grace. The Armagh vineyard was planted in 1969 and fit the mission - an antithesis considering the cold winds blowing through the Australian wine industry.

Armagh was a success and now has a long lineage of proven ageing ability, in a classically structured Clare Valley Shiraz, sitting somewhere between the legendary Wendouree shiraz nearby and Penfold’s Grange .

Armagh is not a Parkerised, high alcohol, low acid Frankensteinian aberration that has driven an Old World bias and snobbery against Australian wines! Alcohol levels will sit about where Burgundy, Barolo and Bordeaux were sitting in the same period. Armagh is low-yielding, fully ripened Shiraz fruit, presenting intensely concentrated and deep wines of excellent balance.

We have two cameos tonight. Firstly I’ve donated a 1999 Wendouree Shiraz for comparison with the link being Jim Barry himself ( he made wine at Wendouree ). 1999 Armagh and Wendouree Shiraz will be in the tasting .

Secondly, Sam Barry provided a brace of Florita Riesling’s for a min-vertical to commence our tasting. We will see in Jancis Robinson’s astounding comparison, the Clos St Hune of Australia, from piercing youth to bright and toned adolescence . Florita is single vineyard too - the site of hushed legends in the Australian wine scene - John Vickery’s Leo Buring Rieslings of the 60’s and 70’s. Expect precision and purity, voluminous Riesling void of austerity in petroleum!

Tasting Wines

2005 Jim Barry Florita Riesling
2012 Jim Barry Florita Riesling
2015 Jim Barry Florita Riesling
2018 Jim Barry Florita Riesling
1991 Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz
1994 Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz
1995 Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz
1999 Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz
1999 Wendouree Shiraz
2006 Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz
2007 Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz
20012 Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz

( will carry two spares for cork taint )

Dinner Menu and Wines

2005 Jim Barry Florita Riesling x 2
Turbot fillet, oyster and garlic mash, baby leek sauce
* * *
1990 Jim Barry Armagh x 2
Smoked pork pappardelle, tomato tartar, red wine
* * *
1991 Jim Barry Armagh x 2
Lamb loin, chinese rice cake, sweet corn, mint & chilli red onion sauce
* * *
2009 Jim Barry Armagh X 3
Trio of Cheese
Comte 30, smoked cheddar, brillat savarin

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[JamieBahrain]

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[Ian S]

Not my usual style of wine (though undeniably they are impressive wines even when young), but I do have a bottle of the 1999 Armagh, so I'll be interested to hear how that is getting on.

Regards
Ian

[JamieBahrain]

I'll put up a general review later. Was my intention yesterday, started the write up, but pretty dusty after my first coffee. A few of us opened up the TCA spares and drank on. There's no school nights in Hong Kong obviously.

What's your thoughts on the style Ian? The wines were very well received by my European friends. A number saying they were the best shiraz based wines they've experienced. Professionally cellared 90's and 91's would make a strong argument for Aussie shiraz in many folks' books- stunning wines. Florita received similar accolades though youthful to adolescent only.

Very to super-impressive wines needing lots of time. Pricing a bit steep for me.

[Mike Hawkins]

I assume the pricing comment doesn’t apply to Florita Jamie? I think it’s outstanding value

[sjw_11]

Very interested in the notes. For some reason I always had in mind the Armagh was perhaps a wine in the over-worked over-stuffed model but now I wonder why- personally I have never tried it and frankly the cost prohibits it vs comparables (e.g. Wendouree). But interested to see it genuinely shows well on an international playing field.

[Ian S]

What's your thoughts on the style Ian? The wines were very well received by my European friends. A number saying they were the best shiraz based wines they've experienced.

Hi Jamie
'Big & complex flavoured South Australian Shiraz'. I remember being very impressed at a walk-round tasting many years ago (enough to buy a bottle), but my tastes then and tastes now are very different. At the time, in the ranks of Shiraz, it stood out in a similar way to how Grange, the fancier Torbrecks etc. would stand out. In its class, no criticism, but these are wines I no longer get excited about drinking or opening, so the wines I have are opened only every once in a while and not refreshed.

There are few Aussie Shiraz I would buy now - Craiglee springs to mind, Best's perhaps but I've enjoyed their Cabernet Sauvignon more. Cornas / St Joseph holds more interest, though the odd producer in Italy has excited as well. On the whole I've come to the realisation it is not a grape I expecially enjoy any more, but if I do it needs to have a touch more greenness than I recall from this or other big name Aussie Shiraz.

Regards
Ian

[JamieBahrain]

I assume the pricing comment doesn’t apply to Florita Jamie? I think it’s outstanding value

No it didn't. But interesting to consider Florita. $50 a bottle at release for a riesling would have howls of protest from some quarters.

Just from my perspective, when I think about it and my accessibility to what are considered the greatest rieslings of the world, it is a sound price for a world class riesling !

To compare the wines to all the great old world rieslings I buy in HKG, the $50 with TRS becomes about $40 or 20 euros! Now 20 euros gets me good old world riesling but it is not the region's best or top echelons like Florita.

Many of my tasters on the night were riesling lovers and my good friend is heavily invested in the Wachau- so broad and experienced Old World riesling drinkers. Florita was praised as being exceptional. So yep, as hard as it is to swallow in Australia, $50 is a good price.

[JamieBahrain]

All wines were tasted blind. Nobody noticed, so I just served up whites youngest to oldest and reds oldest to youngest. Only the 2012 Armagh was decanted.

In introducing the rieslings I said I believed Aussie rieslings grossly under-appreciated abroad though locally, they are perhaps a little overrated.

I mixed whites and reds up together for ratings. Some objected but it was easier to manage.


Jim Barry The Florita Riesling 2018- Noticeably pale to view and pristine aromatically. Lemon blossom, pear and minerals. Clean in its youthful austerity, just a hint of white flowers, linear and of exceptional length. I'm no expert on Clare riesling and I just feel its energy is for more medium term drinking.

92pts+

1 x First, 1 x Second, 0 Lasts

110pts

11th for Me and 8th for the Group

Jim Barry The Florita Riesling 2015- Less expressive than the above so perhaps in a dumb phase? The nose is of a pungent and energetic minerality, a little lemon and lime and alluring notes of bore water. Palate is building, its long and zesty with clean citrus and hints of spice. Should be in a nice place soon.

94pts +

0 x First, Seconds or Lasts.

109pts

6th for Me and 7th for the Group

Jim Barry The Florita Riesling 2012- this was great as we are starting to see the development and you can introduce folks in a imple manner to the joys of Clare riesling!

A gentle spread of honey on toast, underneath is the purest of lemons and lime and more still with flint and mineral. The palate is more expansive now, its filled too, with a completeness and gentle roll along the palate with the minerally tinged acid carry.

93pts+

0 x First, Seconds or Lasts.

115pts

8th for Me and 10th for the Group.


Jim Barry The Florita Riesling 2005- This drank even better over two dinner bottles. It's adolescent Clare riesling, outfitted perfectly, in screw cap !

Smoke, honeycomb, complex minerals and piquantly presented lemon/limes. Long, filled and complex, honeyed toast on the edges, gentle lemon curd adding interst and overall, impeccably balanced .

95pts

0 Firsts, 1 x Second 0 Lasts.

114pts

2nd for Me and 9th for the Group


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Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz 1991- Violets, mint and fine old espresso. It's beautiful, the tertiary notes of truffle and leather are on a base of perfectly ripened blackberry. Soft and gloriously mature SA shiraz, its layered and pretty, flavours are complex reflecting the aromas. Juicy acidity keeps the wine fresh, rolling along with a touch of fruit sweetness and delivering a complete experience.

I enjoyed glasses from two further 91's over dinner and would rate higher!

95pts

2 x First, 2 x Seconds 0 x Lasts

81pts

3rd for Me and 4th for the Group

Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz 1994-Bush florals, mint and choc-earth. Underlying, powerful, blackberry and tar. Piercing, high toned acidity dramatically carries the wine on a very long length; with complex raspberry and dark berry fruits ( similar to great vintages of Basket Press ).

96pts

2 Firsts 1 x Second 0 x Lasts

82pts

WOTN for Me and 8th for the Group

Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz 1995- Stewy, violets and VA, coffee and truffle. Showing the limits of the vintage. Many felt it flawed but the dark toned fruit on the palate as a powerful base suggest otherwise. Evolved fruit notes, with sweetness, mint and menthol. I enjoyed this wine.

93pts

11 Lasts only

180 pts

9th for Me and 12th for the Group.


Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz 1999- We opened the second bottle later which was in better shape.

Aniseed, dry grass, porty ripe notes that subside toward better dried fruits versus prune. High glycerol, underlying high acidity, portiness amongst fresher licorice fruit.

90pts

12th for me and 11th for the Group


Wendouree Shiraz 1999-Malty blackberry, almost creamy violet pastilles and that herbal-minerally complexity particular to Wendouree. Still loaded with primary dark fruits that have unpeeled, rich red earth notes bring on lauded dimensions of complexity, that echo on a persitant finish, where tannins are, in the company of younger Armagh, noticably fine and appropriate.

96pts

2 First 4 Seconds 2 Lasts ( fools )

64pts

4th for Me and 3rd for the Group



Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz 2006- Would have benefitted aeration. A number commented it was tight and closed. I found it was the monumental wine of the night in terms of power and drive- unevolved red and black fruits with a muscular structure. Very long and fine tannins. I'd cellar another 10 years.

94pts +

1x First 0 x Seconds and Lasts

93pts

5th for Me and 6th for the Group


Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz 2007- Bush smoke, camphor, complex herbal notes, red fruits though blackberry the underlying dominace. Very intriguing wine. Really enjoyed it ! The crowd were in raptures. Layered and ripe on the palate, ultra fine tannins in good length.

93pts

3 Firsts 5 x Seconds 0 x Lasts

53pts

10th for Me and EQUAL WOTN for the Group

Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz 2012- Just a pup. This was decanted. Youthful, plum, blackberries and malt. Very well crafted. Fruit is intense and beautifully ripened with a lean and powerful delivery. Long, long wine and the tannins rise on the back palate with grit

94pts+

5 x Firsts, 2 x Seconds, 0 x Lasts

53pts

EQUAL WOTN for the Group


The dinner wines were utterly delightful. Folks were too happy and enjoying the night for planned discussion to continue. The 2005 Florita changed folks perception of Clare riesling ( sure I used Jancis R's Clos St Hune comparison ) but tasters were very keen.

The 1990 Armagh was magnificent. It's now a graceful wine. I last had it a decade plus ago at an ADL offline. The 1990 was pipped by the 1991 which had fresher choc-red fruits and a lovely smokiness. You are in the top percentile of shiraz here- worldwide !

The 2009 went down perfectly though lost in the occasion. 3 bottles. Kicking on with another 2007 and 1999- doing my part for Aussie exports !

I present Australian wine as best I can through fastidious preparation. My events are highly successful to the extent, the HKWS does not do Australian events without my involvement. There's been some most unfortunate presentations of Australian wine!

Hence, I'm working through our classic wines. Rebuilding the reputation before broadening. But that said, the classics are that! Many recent styles lack interest and traction with international drinkers

[dave vino]

Great write-up Jamie. Must admit the Armagh for me was always construed as a big, beefy Barossan in the GB Meschach vein, in a good way. Not an elegant wine that you are portraying it as. Really interesting hearing all this from someone whose palate I know.

[JamieBahrain]

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Why not? Started with a barbera watching the footy but upped my quaffing stakes by three quarter times.

A very nice wine is the 2007. Well crafted and with idiosyncrasies of the vintage melding well with the expected stuffings of Armagh.

[ticklenow1]

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Why not? Started with a barbera watching the footy but upped my quaffing stakes by three quarter times.

A very nice wine is the 2007. Well crafted and with idiosyncrasies of the vintage melding well with the expected stuffings of Armagh.

I guess after that performance you deserved something special. How can the bombers even be in the 8? If the Doggies keep playing like that and manage to sneak into the 8, there may be some teams looking over their shoulders. Essendon on the other hand, should start planning their end of season trip....

Cheers
Ian

[JamieBahrain]

Cheers Ian.

Drinking the good stuff too in case we leave in a hurry. Drinking Barolo overlooking the Tweed River can't be that bad?

[ticklenow1]

Cheers Ian.

Drinking the good stuff too in case we leave in a hurry. Drinking Barolo overlooking the Tweed River can't be that bad?

Plenty of worse places!