TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Early this month I attended a vertical of the iconic Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon. The first seven wines were double decanted approximately three hours prior to the meeting; the rest were opened at the beginning of the meeting and poured through Cantina wine filters. I'm almost certain the colour descriptions in my tasting notes are a little off because of the very poor lighting in the tasting room, which would have resulted in browner shades than expected (see below).
FLIGHT 1:
2010 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (screwcap): 13.5% alc. Medium to dark red/purple. Bright nose and palate of blueberries, cherries and bath salts, lifted and a little minty at times, some cedar oak and touches of herbs in the background. It's a pretty wine and well balanced but also much lighter as I was expecting, with a chalky texture and bright acidity mid-palate, black olive and grippy tannins on the finish. It's hard to see many similarities between this wine and the blockbusters of the nineties when they were released; will it go the distance?
2005 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (screwcap): 14.0% alc. Medium to very dark crimson/garnet. Already quite savoury and a lot more advanced than I was expecting, dusty with cassis camphor wood, tobacco, molten liquorice and herbs; the palate's sweeter with black liquorice and ribena/blackcurrant, tobacco and cigar box, finishing minty. The 2005 vintage was a very ripe one for Wynns, and while this has the scale I expect for a John Riddoch it's developing too fast for my liking on this showing.
2003 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 13.5% alc. Medium to dark garnet/brick. A fast developer, the nose opening with cedar, caramel, cassis, sweet tobacco and camphor, some game with breathing; in comparison to the bouquet the palate more sour, soupy and slightly stocky, slightly green with capsicum and course tannins on the finish. This vintage was a notably lighter and savoury, slightly gamey wine when it was first released, so how it looks now wasn't a huge surprise; it's a pleasant enough drink, but it has already peaked and will never be brilliant.
FLIGHT 2:
1999 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 13.5% alc. Medium to very dark garnet. Very restrained nose at first, some cedar/banana oak, pretty blackcurrant and sweet spices appear, some sandshoe rubber with breathing; the palate's tart, soupy and spicy, the weight of the blueberry fruit not quite matching the massive, chalky tannins and sweet/spicy oak on the finish. A sulky wine in this flight, it didn't have the same weight and balance of the 1996 & 1998 vintages, or the outrageous oak of the 1997 - a guest at the tasting from another Coonawarra winery thought it was slightly corked.
1998 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 13.5% alc. Medium to very dark crimson. The first wine tonight to show what I call typical, thunderous Riddoch fruit & oak characters on the nose, very inky with capsicum, coal, cedar and cassis, dried blood, ground paprika, peppermint and tomato leaf, becoming slightly meaty/soupy with breathing. The palate's just as spicy, lots of peppermint, cumin, paprika and blackcurrant on the fat mid-palate, finishing long, dry and chalky, the oak seemingly less obvious. On this form it has slightly overtaken the 1996 vintage in the development stakes, but overall remains an impressive wine made for the long haul.
1997 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 13.5% alc. Medium to very dark garnet/brick. Very green, very leafy and very oaky on both the nose and palate, coffee and molten caramel, liquorice and tar, mulberry and sarsaparilla; there's a distinct lack of fruit on the palate to match the coffee oak or bitter green tannins that dominate the finish. This will never be a great wine, it probably never was to begin with.
1996 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 13.0% alc. Medium to very dark red. Dark, inky, dusty and perfumed, letting out little whiffs of coal and blackcurrant, blueberry and castor sugar, but overall it's rather closed and austere; the palate's massive, tarry, chalky and perfectly balanced, jubey and earthy, coal and blackcurrant, finishing extremely long with clean acidity and gravelly tannins. A blockbuster vintage that will probably outlive everything in the room, and I do mean everything!
FLIGHT 3:
1994 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 13.5% alc. Medium to very dark red. Like the impressive colour the nose initially promises great things, dusty and jubey with blueberry, blackcurrant, tomato leaf and sweet cedar oak, although with breathing that oak becomes dominant, malty and very coarse. The palate isn't as big or as well balanced as the 1996 vintage, from the start the oak is far more prominent leading to a massive mid-palate hole, finishing dry and minty. A classic 1994 in many ways; it's powerful but not fleshy, impressive on it's own but it doesn't quite measure up to the truly great vintages.
1993 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 13.5% alc. Medium to almost very dark garnet. Very spicy and a little inky, cedar, cassis, molten caramel, peppermint, ground paprika, iodine and pencil notes; the palate's on the lighter side for John Riddoch, meaty/soupy and more towards medium-weight, but it's also well balanced with a fat mid-palate and a sweet, long finish with lacy tannins. This vintage is very enjoyable right now; there's no need to wait any longer, it's ready to go.
1992 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 13.5% alc. Medium to dark garnet. Very similar to the 1993 vintage on the bouquet, spicy and inky, cedar, cassis, peppermint and ground paprika, although there's also a little sandshoe rubber with breathing; the palate's very dry and dusty, badly lacking fruit and with a scalped finish. Clearly a problem here, this was nothing like a superb bottle four years ago; the panel discussed whether it was oxidised or corked, I suspect it's the latter.
FLIGHT 4:
1991 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 13.5% alc. Medium to almost dark red/garnet. Inky and spicy nose, cedar and cassis, peppermint, ground paprika and pencil notes; the palate's fat and beautifully balanced, not quite as big as the 1990 in scale, a little cooler in style and the oak a little more obvious, but the end result is still an outstanding wine with a silky mouthfeel and outstanding length.
1990 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 13.5% alc. Medium to dark red/garnet. Opens seemingly riper than the surrounding vintages with dark chocolate, coffee, blackcurrant, peppermint and heavily charred oak; the entry of the palate is huge, dense and chocolatey, the finish long with velvety tannins, but with breathing there's also a slightly damp/wet wood character that becomes far more noticeable. By the end, as enjoyable as this wine was, I thought it was a slightly flawed bottle.
1988 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 12.3% alc. Medium to almost dark garnet/brick. Developed but beautiful nose of creme de cacao and creme de cassis, old leather, game meats, caramel and cedar; the palate's only medium-weight compared to the blockbuster 1990 & 1990 vintages, but still has a lovely balance of sweet and spicy fruit and oak, finishing slender and slightly dry. This wasn't close to the best bottle of this vintage I have tried, but it was still a great drink.
1987 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 12.9% alc. Medium-ish garnet/brick. While the nose opens spicy with dark chocolate, cassis, dried chill, paprika, menthol, ash and peppermint characters, it also shows some oxidative gunpowder characters that take over with breathing; the palate's also on the green side and is dying in the glass, the fruit's fading leaving bitter tannins. Well past its best.
FLIGHT 5:
1986 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 13.6% alc. Medium to almost dark garnet/brick. Familiar scents of creme de cassis, peppermint, ground spices, cedar and old leather with a little whiff of VA adding lift; the palate's still powerful and spicy, long and lingering with tingly, minerally bath salt characters that dance around the tongue, the tannins soft and silky. An absolute joy to taste, and it should hold this superb form for some years yet.
1985 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 12.2% alc. Medium to almost dark crimson/brick. Quite earthy and leathery nose with some lift, some sous bois, coffee, and caramel; the palate's seriously lacking in comparison, very dry and damp, as the oak influence fades what appears to be cork taint characters take over on the stripped mid-palate and finish.
1984 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 11.2% alc. Medium to almost dark brick/garnet. There are some remnants of dark chocolate on the nose, but the predominant characters are potato peelings and damp socks; in contrast the palate is completely destroyed by cork taint and has absolutely no remnants of any redeeming features.
1982 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 12.1% alc. Medium to darkish brick/garnet. As well as the usual Riddoch characters of cassis, cedar, coffee and peppermint there are intriguing characters of soy, mushroom and umami; the earthy palate's still sweet with currant fruit and cedary oak, finishing long with silky tannins. As good as the wine was, the palate was so earthy that by the end of the tasting I was wondering if this too was a totally sound bottle?
Cheers
Ian
Last edited by n4sir on Fri May 18, 2018 2:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Forget about goodness and mercy, they're gone.
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Awesome notes as always Ian. I had the 1996 John Riddoch perhaps ... 2yrs ago, or a bit less than that, and it was one of the most impressive Aussie wines I have tried ever. That and the Bin 707 of the same vintage are utterly astounding.
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Sam
Sam
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Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Nice notes Ian - thanks.
As always, the '96 vintage shines.
Cheers....................Mahmoud.
sjw_11 wrote:Awesome notes as always Ian. I had the 1996 John Riddoch perhaps ... 2yrs ago, or a bit less than that, and it was one of the most impressive Aussie wines I have tried ever. That and the Bin 707 of the same vintage are utterly astounding.
As always, the '96 vintage shines.
Cheers....................Mahmoud.
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Thank you very much for this Ian. I will print off your notes for when I do this tasting next year.
Cheers Craig.
Cheers Craig.
Tomorrow will be a good day
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Wow.. sounds like an amazing tasting. One of things on my bucket list (or dream) is to do a full vertical of my all time favourite wine - John Riddoch.
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Nice notes Ian, looks like you really enjoyed this one! But no 2004? Probably total vinfanticide I suppose.
For those interested, here a link to our (smaller!) tasting back in 2010, sounds quite similar overall, with a similarly suspect 1990. Our 86 was also suspect, unlike Ian's one! But we luckily had a truly stunning bottle of the 82, thanks to cuttlefish.
We did 82, 86, 87, 88, 90, 91, 93, 94.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11664&p=92626&hilit=john+riddoch#p92626
Cheers
Tim
For those interested, here a link to our (smaller!) tasting back in 2010, sounds quite similar overall, with a similarly suspect 1990. Our 86 was also suspect, unlike Ian's one! But we luckily had a truly stunning bottle of the 82, thanks to cuttlefish.
We did 82, 86, 87, 88, 90, 91, 93, 94.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11664&p=92626&hilit=john+riddoch#p92626
Cheers
Tim
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
TiggerK wrote:Nice notes Ian, looks like you really enjoyed this one! But no 2004? Probably total vinfanticide I suppose.
For those interested, here a link to our (smaller!) tasting back in 2010, sounds quite similar overall, with a similarly suspect 1990. Our 86 was also suspect, unlike Ian's one! But we luckily had a truly stunning bottle of the 82, thanks to cuttlefish.
We did 82, 86, 87, 88, 90, 91, 93, 94.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11664&p=92626&hilit=john+riddoch#p92626
Cheers
Tim
Hi Tim,
This was put on by the Classic Wines Club and wasn't a Wynn's/Treasury sanctioned event, but Sue Hodder and Sarah Pidgeon were invited and it looked like one or both would attend with an additional vintage or two - the week before the vertical Sue told us that they couldn't come due to a clash with another commitment, but they were very interested to hear how it went. Almost all of the bottles were sourced from three club members' cellars, the 1992 was a stray bottle in the club cellar purchased many years ago, the 2003 was bought very recently at auction for this event. The club tried to sneak a bottle of the 2004 vintage in, but because it was a club member's very last bottle he couldn't be persuaded to part with it - in the end it was decided eighteen vintages were enough. A few of us did try a bottle of the 2004 at the AFWAC horizontal a few months ago, and noted just how much bigger and younger it looked then compared to the 2003 & 2005 vintages we had this time around.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=13867&p=114585
Thanks to the link to your vertical a few years ago - it sounds like you also had a very suspect 1991 Wynns Centenary by the read of it.
After this vertical I've come to the conclusion that I find Wynn's Cabernets are one of the hardest to judge in regard to the presence of cork taint - the wines are so earthy and extracted it makes it damn hard at times to initially pick it up on the nose, especially the earlier vintages with the very low alcohols. I've been caught out a few times now thinking the cork smells okay, the wine initially smells okay, then after a good breathe the TCA begins to appear, typically on the palate first, then the nose. Maybe it's just me?
Cheers,
Ian
Forget about goodness and mercy, they're gone.
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Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
sjw_11 wrote:Awesome notes as always Ian. I had the 1996 John Riddoch perhaps ... 2yrs ago, or a bit less than that, and it was one of the most impressive Aussie wines I have tried ever. That and the Bin 707 of the same vintage are utterly astounding.
On my tastings of both, the 707 absolutely destroys the JR.... I don't think they're are remotely close qualitatively. I'm pleased others have enjoyed the 96 JR, but the bottles I've opened have been quite pedestrian.
Cheers
Mike
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Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Ian,
Fantastic write up as always.....
Thanks for the walk down memory lane. The first 8 or so wines released under this label have always been my favourites (save for the 98 which I really rate). As has been well documented, Wynns lost their way for a while, and its borne out in some of their wines.
Cheers
Mike
Fantastic write up as always.....
Thanks for the walk down memory lane. The first 8 or so wines released under this label have always been my favourites (save for the 98 which I really rate). As has been well documented, Wynns lost their way for a while, and its borne out in some of their wines.
Cheers
Mike
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Mike Hawkins wrote:sjw_11 wrote:Awesome notes as always Ian. I had the 1996 John Riddoch perhaps ... 2yrs ago, or a bit less than that, and it was one of the most impressive Aussie wines I have tried ever. That and the Bin 707 of the same vintage are utterly astounding.
On my tastings of both, the 707 absolutely destroys the JR.... I don't think they're are remotely close qualitatively. I'm pleased others have enjoyed the 96 JR, but the bottles I've opened have been quite pedestrian.
Cheers
Mike
Mea culpa: having checked my notes, the wine I was thinking of was the 1998. I have never had a lot of the JR, just came late to the party I guess. Amusingly, was the same night I last had the 2005 Steingarten which is also currently the subject of a thread. Not a bad nights drinking actually, which might explain my less than perfect recall:
Orlando Steingarten Riesling 2005 (S/cap)... Very pale green/yellow and youthful still. This strikes me as very angular, with acidity sticking out all over the place. Needs a lot of time still. Astonishing freshness and drive however.
Henschke Mt Edelstone 1997... Just to round out the Mt Ed's from the other weeks offline, this was from my friend's cellar since release. Fully mature, mid red, a pleasant but developed expression of savoury red fruits. Drink up.
Henschke Mt Edelstone 1991... More youthful than the 1990 from the recent offline. Slightly ... "muscular", with a mid-red hue, deep and earthy fruit characters, and a balanced, long palate. Good juice.
Wynns John Riddoch 1998... WOW. Brutal powerhouse of a wine. Muscular, deeply fruited, still intensely youthful. Wonderful poise but honestly still felt a bit like infanticide. Impressive wine to me.
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Sam
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Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Thanks Sam - love that 91 Mt Ed... a superb wine.
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Great notes as per usual Ian.
I love a good JR by like you Mike I reckon the 707 leaves them for dead. Had an amazing magnum of 1983 707 a couple of years ago and the memory of it still sticks in my head like it was yesterday.
Cracking a 94' JR for a mate's 40th in Sydney this weekend - will let you know how it goes.
Cheers
Matt
On my tastings of both the 707 absolutely destroys the JR.... I don't think they're are remotely close qualitatively.
I love a good JR by like you Mike I reckon the 707 leaves them for dead. Had an amazing magnum of 1983 707 a couple of years ago and the memory of it still sticks in my head like it was yesterday.
Cracking a 94' JR for a mate's 40th in Sydney this weekend - will let you know how it goes.
Cheers
Matt
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Lovely notes. I'v had a lot of JRs over the years, and never been totally blown away. I had a bunch of 96s that seemed to be terminally bacterial somehow as well. Always a wine I'm interested to taste, and (20th cent at least) nearly always something I'm disappointed in; even the 1990 vintage. Have had the odd attractive '86 though, and have a singelton of that in the cellar.
cheers,
GG
cheers,
GG
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Mike Hawkins wrote:On my tastings of both, the 707 absolutely destroys the JR.... I don't think they're are remotely close qualitatively. I'm pleased others have enjoyed the 96 JR, but the bottles I've opened have been quite pedestrian.
And I meant to agree with this too.
GG
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Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
The fish wrote:Cracking a 94' JR for a mate's 40th in Sydney this weekend - will let you know how it goes.
My only vintage of the JR so I'm keenly interested in how it's coming along. The previous flight notes from 2010 (the above link) suggested another 5 to 10 years for the '94 while notes from the current thread concurs in that it doesn't seem quite ready.
Cheers........................Mahmoud.
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
n4sir wrote:1984 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 11.2% alc. Medium to almost dark brick/garnet. There are some remnants of dark chocolate on the nose, but the predominant characters are potato peelings and damp socks; in contrast the palate is completely destroyed by cork taint and has absolutely no remnants of any redeeming features.
EPILOGUE:
I got to try another bottle of this wine this week at a committee dinner, and it was a very different story!
1984 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (cork): 11.2% alc. Medium to very dark red. Even though it's presented blind, the first whiff is a giveaway it's a John Riddoch, the nose full of peppermint, blackcurrant, earth, fresh chilli and ground paprika. Likewise the palate is true to form, a powerful entry of powdered chalk is followed by a medium to full weight structure full of currants, cherry cola, bitter chocolate and pencil shavings, finishing with powerful cedar oak that's more obvious than the better vintages. That said, this was a superb bottle and unbelievably good drinking.
Cheers,
Ian
Last edited by n4sir on Sat Apr 07, 2018 4:10 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Track down a few more bottles of the JR '10 for the outrageous equivalent of A$70. Last night lured into opening a bottle, prematurely. It lived up to its reputation: it's gonna be great.
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Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Bump...
Just having a 94 JR now as I contemplate presenting a vertical in a few months for a Hong Kong audience. Cool, classic black current pastille, black olive textured and lightly minted, shows a long structure, austere and finely/ coarsely gripped with an overall sense of power.
I think I have 12 vintages from 84 to 2000. Missing 82 and 90 though I think there is enough of a line-up to get the gist of the Wynn's marquee
Just having a 94 JR now as I contemplate presenting a vertical in a few months for a Hong Kong audience. Cool, classic black current pastille, black olive textured and lightly minted, shows a long structure, austere and finely/ coarsely gripped with an overall sense of power.
I think I have 12 vintages from 84 to 2000. Missing 82 and 90 though I think there is enough of a line-up to get the gist of the Wynn's marquee
"Barolo is Barolo, you can't describe it, just as you can't describe Picasso"
Teobaldo Cappellano
Teobaldo Cappellano
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Jamie, was half a dozen '82s at Wickham's this week...guide price of $400...at least down from the stupid $750+ of 10 years ago.
I have back-filled 84, 85 and 87 all for around $55-65.
Looking to do the same with BL...although recent activity here on Auswine tells me that many punters are thinking same
Cheers Craig
I have back-filled 84, 85 and 87 all for around $55-65.
Looking to do the same with BL...although recent activity here on Auswine tells me that many punters are thinking same
Cheers Craig
Tomorrow will be a good day
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Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Fascinated by whom the vendor is? His cellar is so extensive; albeit boring in the number of Coonawarra of the same wine. And I have taken a punt on his wines from a "subterranean cellar' though not a $500 including commission for the 82. The 94 above was from this cellar and though levels OK it lacked the freshness, nuances and complexities I believe you find it perfectly cellared wines ( perhaps you agree as you care for your wines in the same manner as I do ).
It's a shame. I'd love to put the 82 versus a ring-in 82 First Growth. However my 82's Bordeaux have perfect levels so cork permitting, it's perhaps not a fair comparison?
Vertical Line-up - 84,85,86, 88,91,92,93,94,96,97,98,03,06.
It's a shame. I'd love to put the 82 versus a ring-in 82 First Growth. However my 82's Bordeaux have perfect levels so cork permitting, it's perhaps not a fair comparison?
Vertical Line-up - 84,85,86, 88,91,92,93,94,96,97,98,03,06.
"Barolo is Barolo, you can't describe it, just as you can't describe Picasso"
Teobaldo Cappellano
Teobaldo Cappellano
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Yes a pretty dependent Coonawarra cellar, a little like mine, but I don't find it too boring though...I probably favour Cabernet.JamieBahrain wrote:Fascinated by whom the vendor is? His cellar is so extensive; albeit boring in the number of Coonawarra of the same wine. And I have taken a punt on his wines from a "subterranean cellar' though not a $500 including commission for the 82. The 94 above was from this cellar and though levels OK it lacked the freshness, nuances and complexities I believe you find it perfectly cellared wines ( perhaps you agree as you care for your wines in the same manner as I do ).
It's a shame. I'd love to put the 82 versus a ring-in 82 First Growth. However my 82's Bordeaux have perfect levels so cork permitting, it's perhaps not a fair comparison?
Vertical Line-up - 84,85,86, 88,91,92,93,94,96,97,98,03,06.
The cellar in question I believe comes from the south east, either a vendor round Mount Gambier way, or as I have heard from several reliable sources including the previous publican himself, there has been stock over the years come from Heywards Hotel in Penola....particularly as there are finally new owners now after many decades...so who knows they may be clearing the decks a bit?
I had a chance to look at the cellar years ago...very impressive and suspect over time many a winemaker had numerous lunches and beers in exchange for dozens of this and that.
I have also heard that Wynns (through their reps) scour auction sites for back vintage stock, particularly black label and to a lesser extent Riddoch, Pennies apparently do the same.
Sorry I don't have any 82 Bordeaux, too poor and got onto international stuff way too late...still Dans at Chapel Street at Prahran had 82 Ist growths at a $100 a bottle with 10% off for case buys...82 Riddoch was just $11.
cheers craig
Tomorrow will be a good day
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Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
No First Growths here either- slip up- I have only 1982 Chateau L'Evangile
"Barolo is Barolo, you can't describe it, just as you can't describe Picasso"
Teobaldo Cappellano
Teobaldo Cappellano
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Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Sounds like the '94 is doing well, and, if I understand your note, still has the depth and structure to last a few more years.JamieBahrain wrote:Just having a 94 JR now as I contemplate presenting a vertical in a few months for a Hong Kong audience. Cool, classic black current pastille, black olive textured and lightly minted, shows a long structure, austere and finely/ coarsely gripped with an overall sense of power.
Mahmoud.
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Since my remarks in 2014 above, I've only had three JRs, with the following results:
Graeme
- [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=7458001]2004 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon John Riddoch[/url] - Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra (3/12/2018)
[url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=40570]NobleRottersSydney - Wines under $30 (360 Bar & Dining, Sydney)[/url]: {screwcap, 13.5%} [David] A bit developed; or at least not immediately primary in character. Malt, liquorice, currants. Some mint too. Lavish black-fruited palate, still quite oaky, and full-bodied. Medium gritty/dusty tannins; big initial impression on the tongue but tails off a bit on the palate; medium length finish at best, and with some warmth about it, despite the modest alcohol. Still from the more-is-more school of winemaking; I have the sense the style has lightened up in the second decade this century; this is more of a look-back to the 20th century style. Not entirely convincing for me (bearing in mind typical pricing), but another decade in the cellar might help. - [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=6929817]1998 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon John Riddoch[/url] - Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra (5/02/2018)
[url=https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=37988]NobleRottersSydney - Penfolds at 10 20 30 years (360 Bar & Dining, Sydney)[/url]: {cork, 13.5%} [Aaron] Had a 40-minute decant. Big, chocolate and cedar nose. Liquorice too. Very ripe, powerful. Plenty of oak on the palate, too, with sweet chocolate and currant flavours. Medium chalky tannins, medium-bodied with lowish acid. Makes a bit initial impression in the mouth, then flattens out a bit, and only finishes medium length. Weaker back-palate, despite the pleasant flavours it’s just a bit hollow and simple for a Coonawarra flagship red. The more I taste JR from the late 90s the more I understand why they ripped out so many vines and re-thought the oak treatment. - [url=https://www.cellartracker.com/note.asp?iWine ... te=6830324]1999 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon John Riddoch[/url] - Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra (28/01/2018)
{cork, 13.5%} Good deep garnet, but the age is apparent from the rim. The palate is rich with cedar, chocolate and vanillan oak. Smells very lovely indeed, in an old-fashioned Australian way. This was the last vintage of the label prior to some drastic vineyard renovations; the reason why is possibly evident on the palate, which despite the richness promised is actually rather monochrome and simple. They're pleasant flavours, sure, like a good Rioja, but not really what Coonawarra is trying to do I think. So, an attractive wine, falling short of its ambition, which certainly hasn't repaid nearly 20 years cellaring. On this tasting, the decision to uproot the vineyards was right.
Graeme
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
1986 Wynns John Riddoch Cab Sav 13.6%
Very recently, from a blind tasting with many wines so very brief impressions; Initially vegemite, chalks, bitterness, obviously Cabernet but then its class came up; chalk, length, and utterly delicious, and no rush to drink
Very recently, from a blind tasting with many wines so very brief impressions; Initially vegemite, chalks, bitterness, obviously Cabernet but then its class came up; chalk, length, and utterly delicious, and no rush to drink
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Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Graeme,
I am a firm believer in cellaring wines, and in that regard also that the trajectory between the freshness of youth and graceful old age is variable and is never a straight line. I write this because in reading your notes on the 1998 and 1999 John Riddoch my sense is that at twenty years of age they may only just be entering their drinking windows. I tasted a number of 1998s when I was in the Coonawarra some years ago and was impressed by the depth and structure of both the the Riddoch and Michael. Both wines were poured at the start and left to air in the glass while I tasted through their lineup of other wines. Both were brooding, young wines, quite expressive, and in my opinion had a long life ahead, the Riddoch more so than the Michael which was already quite heady and perfumed.
I looked up Jeremy Oliver's 2016 guide and see that he lists the drinking window of the '98 Riddoch as 2018 to 2028 and the '99 Riddoch as 2029 to 2039. In other words the '98 is only now coming around and at minimum has another decade ahead while the '99 is still ten years away. In effect the '98 is a 30 year wine and the '99 is a 40 year wine. Along this long trajectory there will be times when the wine is not going to show well. This is not the time to doubt the wine but rather to leave it alone. If I can use an analogy, an adorable child might become an awkward, rebellious teenager and at which time shows no hope of ever developing into a well-manned and possibly delightful personality.
Twenty years is not old for a top-flight cabernet, especially considering that many modest wines from 1998 are today drinking so well. In the last year I have been quite surprised to unexpectedly find that two decades old wine that I had forgotten about has afforded me considerable pleasure, including a Canadian bordeaux blend, a Cotes du Rhones, and a Portuguese daily drinker called Periquita.
Cheers ............... Mahmoud.
I am a firm believer in cellaring wines, and in that regard also that the trajectory between the freshness of youth and graceful old age is variable and is never a straight line. I write this because in reading your notes on the 1998 and 1999 John Riddoch my sense is that at twenty years of age they may only just be entering their drinking windows. I tasted a number of 1998s when I was in the Coonawarra some years ago and was impressed by the depth and structure of both the the Riddoch and Michael. Both wines were poured at the start and left to air in the glass while I tasted through their lineup of other wines. Both were brooding, young wines, quite expressive, and in my opinion had a long life ahead, the Riddoch more so than the Michael which was already quite heady and perfumed.
I looked up Jeremy Oliver's 2016 guide and see that he lists the drinking window of the '98 Riddoch as 2018 to 2028 and the '99 Riddoch as 2029 to 2039. In other words the '98 is only now coming around and at minimum has another decade ahead while the '99 is still ten years away. In effect the '98 is a 30 year wine and the '99 is a 40 year wine. Along this long trajectory there will be times when the wine is not going to show well. This is not the time to doubt the wine but rather to leave it alone. If I can use an analogy, an adorable child might become an awkward, rebellious teenager and at which time shows no hope of ever developing into a well-manned and possibly delightful personality.
Twenty years is not old for a top-flight cabernet, especially considering that many modest wines from 1998 are today drinking so well. In the last year I have been quite surprised to unexpectedly find that two decades old wine that I had forgotten about has afforded me considerable pleasure, including a Canadian bordeaux blend, a Cotes du Rhones, and a Portuguese daily drinker called Periquita.
Cheers ............... Mahmoud.
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Had an '86 last Sunday among many other wines, when the Maralinga Wine Society convened in Melbourne for the weekendscribbler wrote:1986 Wynns John Riddoch Cab Sav 13.6%
Very recently, from a blind tasting with many wines so very brief impressions; Initially vegemite, chalks, bitterness, obviously Cabernet but then its class came up; chalk, length, and utterly delicious, and no rush to drink
That particular bottle was drinking absolutely superbly I have to say.
veni, vidi, bibi
also on twitter @m_j_short
and instagram m_j_short
also on twitter @m_j_short
and instagram m_j_short
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
Fair point, Mahmoud. I still have one 98 in the cellar, along with an 86 and a pair of 99s. I'm in no rush to drink them.
I wouldn't dispute your comments about cabernet generally, but I'm still not entirely convinced that JR is the ultimate example of the breed.
Needs less oak and more complexity, or something. Actually, although I haven't tasted many of the 21st century bottlings, it seems they've tweaked the style in that very direction (per my note on the 04). Be interesting to taste the post-2008 vintages one day, but not at $120 each!
Graeme
I wouldn't dispute your comments about cabernet generally, but I'm still not entirely convinced that JR is the ultimate example of the breed.
Needs less oak and more complexity, or something. Actually, although I haven't tasted many of the 21st century bottlings, it seems they've tweaked the style in that very direction (per my note on the 04). Be interesting to taste the post-2008 vintages one day, but not at $120 each!
Graeme
Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
The 1982 JR I had last year was a truly magnificent expression of Cabernet perfection. Easily the best Aussie Cabernet I've ever had and will probably ever have.GraemeG wrote:Fair point, Mahmoud. I still have one 98 in the cellar, along with an 86 and a pair of 99s. I'm in no rush to drink them.
I wouldn't dispute your comments about cabernet generally, but I'm still not entirely convinced that JR is the ultimate example of the breed.
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Re: TN: 1982-2010 Wynns John Riddoch Vertical 2/6/14
- 1990 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon John Riddoch - Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra (17/02/2019)
Dark, has the Coonawarra edge, a fresh feel, acidity pokes out a little. Intense, extended. At peak, could be on downslope. Acidity indicates may be starting to crack up. Safest to drink soon. (93 pts.)
Part of a flight with 707 '94 & '98. The latter just edged out the JR.