The Barolo / Barbaresco / Nebbiolo thread

[Ian S]

I recall the conversation at Burlotto, about how Fabio wants Acclivi not to just be a 'normale' that ends up taking the offcuts from other vineyard specific wines, but a direct point of comparison to the single vineyard wines that have become the norm. In doing so, he's backing both horses, unlike say Bartolo Mascarello where they stand squarely behind the blend.

It's a good debate to have, so I'm happy that he makes an effort to let the Acclivi challenge his single vineyard wines. We certainly enjoyed it and IIRC came away with a couple of bottles of it.

2005 oddly passed me by - as much about the timing of holidays elsewhere, rather than buying into what appears to be a negative hype about the vintage. A single bottle of a PdB Riserva in my stash is the only 2005 representative, and that a present from a friend. Still, I'm intrigued to hear how the wines from that vintage pan out.

[winetastic]

Some brief impressions from memory:

Barale Barbaresco 'Serraboella' 2015
My first wine from this traditionalist Barolo producer was a Barbaresco. I am familiar with the Serraboella cru via Cigliuti, though I much prefer the Barale expression. Bright acid and firm minerality, its all tightly coiled right now yet still very enjoyable thanks to the fruit generosity innately found in Serraboella.

Marcarini Barolo Brunate 2008
Delightful middle aged Barolo, tannins have certainly softened enough to offer plenty of enjoyment, some secondary characters, some primary fruit. Perhaps not a wine with the most serious backbone and complexity, however thoroughly enjoyable to drink right now.

[JamieBahrain]

I am familiar with the Serraboella cru via Cigliuti, though I much prefer the Barale expression. Bright acid and firm minerality, its all tightly coiled right now yet still very enjoyable thanks to the fruit generosity innately found in Serraboella.

Paitin does a traditional expression too ( of Serraboella )

2005 oddly passed me by - as much about the timing of holidays elsewhere, rather than buying into what appears to be a negative hype about the vintage.

I'm not saying 2005 my favourite vintage though I've wondered about the negativity? In what way? Punters they don't like 2005 ( bit silly considering the broad areas and hundreds of microclimates ) but I've never gathered why? If they said high acidity and austerity with coarser tannins I'd go OK.

Not just a swipe at punters on the boards but I've heard even the polite vintage criticism from the wine makers too- Augustus Cappellano telling me to drink my 2005's now ( due tannin structure ) so, if I can find one now, why don't I stand one up for tonight?

[Ian S]

Hi Jamie
I can recall mention of extreme variability and unbalanced wines, though I've learnt to avoid getting bought into black and white pronouncements on vintage 'quality'. It does indeed feel difficult to put an exact finger on what people dislike about it - almost like they're whispering under their breath: "I' wouldn't associate with that vintage if I were you, it's a bit of a wrong'un if you catch my drift".

Slightly surprising the Marcarini was so approachable. I rather like their four-square style, and after enjoying a 1997 and 2003 from them, I've got them mentally chalked up as a safe bet even in warm/hot vintages.

Regards
Ian

[winetastic]

Slightly surprising the Marcarini was so approachable. I rather like their four-square style, and after enjoying a 1997 and 2003 from them, I've got them mentally chalked up as a safe bet even in warm/hot vintages.

Apparently its buyer beware for the 2012 vintage - I have a few in the cellar, have not yet tried myself however...

[JamieBahrain]

Without much thought pulled the cork on a Olek Bondonio Barbaresco Roncagliette 2011 for a BBQ dinner. The wine has evolved beautifully and is in a long, long window. Beautiful and traditional aromatics, smoothed over the edges with a layered texture and those uppercut Roncagliette tannins firm yet softening fast. 93pts easy.

[winetastic]

Without much thought pulled the cork on a Olek Bondonio Barbaresco Roncagliette 2011 for a BBQ dinner. The wine has evolved beautifully and is in a long, long window. Beautiful and traditional aromatics, smoothed over the edges with a layered texture and those uppercut Roncagliette tannins firm yet softening fast. 93pts easy.

This was the Nebbiolo gateway drug for my better half. Wonderful wine from an awkward (for my tastes) vintage.

Makes me miss 121bc in Sydney, where else could you walk in a find such a wine for sale in a wine bar setting?

[michel]

This was the Nebbiolo gateway drug for my better half. Wonderful wine from an awkward (for my tastes) vintage.

Gateway wines are life essential....

They lead you down wickedly great corridors.

[Michael R]

Makes me miss 121bc in Sydney, where else could you walk in a find such a wine for sale in a wine bar setting?

Yep, 121 BC had it right on many levels.
Shame it’s gone.

[Matt@5453]

2017 Benevelli Piero Langhe Nebbiolo

Red cherries, ferrous tones, aniseed with a whiff of coffee. On day 2 the palate seemed to fill out a bit more and give more weight. Drying lingering tannins. Could use a year or 2 to settle down a bit.

[JamieBahrain]

I've drunk these over the last two weeks at home.

1997 Giovanni Corino Barolo Vigna Giachini- Glorious expression of a Cru La Morra vineyard where time has done its magic and smoothed over a modernist approach. Fresh and complete, popped and poured and delivers a multi-faceted wine of great complexity. Tadpole-tail long tannins with the hint of some wood. 94pts

Pertinace Barbaresco 2014- Outstanding QPR in its simplicity and immediacy. Textbook Barbaresco in a traditional and faultless expression. 91pts

Paitin Serra Barbaresco 2012- Impatiently presented and consumed in a sitting. Powerful and energetic Barbaresco under a covering veil of subtle violets and red fruits on a calm and expansive sea of acidity and finely integrated tannin. 93pts+

Gaja Barolo Dagromis 2004- Modern polish and hoo-hah. Really needs more time though some will doubt. Outgunned by Corino but hey, if Gaja made a single vineyard wine from Giachini it would be $500. 92pts+

Carlo Giacosa Barbaresco Narin 1998- Perfect cork though overly developed. Still drank well with maderized notes. This is why there's so much upswing in this region. Producers like this will make better wines very quickly or sell their vineyards for millions of euros to those who will ! NR







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[winetastic]

A slight change of pace, I just opened a 2015 Domenica Nebbiolo.

Screwcap seal, grown and made in Beechworth, even in a crack and pour situation, immediately shows some lovely violet perfume with an undercurrent of pine or subtle eucalyptus, also has something akin to ground almonds going on? The palate has everything I look for in a young Nebbiolo, its somewhat juicy yet impeccably balanced thanks to the stony minerality. The real kicker here are the tannins, so silky yet firm on the exit. Can't wait to check in again later once its had a chance to breathe.

This might be Australia's best Nebbiolo. It is certainly in the conversation for my tastes.

[winetastic]

Day 2 was looking very sharp, subtle rose perfume along with a lovely fresh pine aroma, great length and the stuffing to put in the cellar for quite some time I suspect.

At ~$45 is a strong buy recommendation from me.

[JamieBahrain]

My tasting group had it's annual dinner at the Hong Kong Club. 6 bottles of 1958 Marchesi di Barolo were presented. 3 had old corks and 3 had newer corks indicating re-corking and topping up - perhaps with a bit of barbera? I was worried with 58 vintage, we'd get a lucky bottle of "tar and roses" only, with mostly and at best, the rest being "rust and prunes".

I tried all six and they were great drinking for the most part. Some were darker and richer possible evidence of topping up- I know Borgogno's story but not the MdB. Anyways, great to drink a bunch of consistent oldies.

Yesterday I had another look at Brovia's Ca Mia Barolo 2007. Stunning Burgundian elegance on top and with a drive of Serralunga power and forcefulness underneath.








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[Ian S]

Hi Jamie
I'm not aware of topping up, but new corks would suggest either that or an utterly ham-fisted / brazen forgery. Logic dictates it must be the former, though I've never encountered one in the 2-3 older bottles we've had (from an ere where MdB must have been better than today)
regards
Ian

[Con J]

A few of years ago I bought a 1964 Vega Sicilia from auction and when opening this had a new unbranded cork with very little staining. I looked up some images of this wine on the internet and the capsule looked different also. In the end this was obviously a fake.

Were the capsules different on the 3 bottles with the newer corks?

Cheers Con.

[JamieBahrain]

I wish I'd paid more attention as I'd never expect such an inexpensive wine to be forged- it was relatively consistent drinking over six bottles for old Barolo too I guess. That said, the region is historically impoverished so who'd know?

Con I vaguely recall discussing the capsules in reference to Borgogno Barolo red and black caps. They must have been different. I'll chase it up as they were knowledgeable folks with MW's.

[Buzz Basilone]

Prunotto Barbaresco Montestefano 1989- A true tertiary dovetail : tar-cocoa, roast game and burnt fig in a complex aromatic mesh. There's a youthfulness to palate that belies the 25 + years, with a weight and density that although not overly complex, delivers a contented mire of dark fruits in a tertiary buzz similar to the aromatics. Lively, long finish, with seemingly age-tamed acidity.

94pts










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Jamie
what is the book in this photo?

[JamieBahrain]

Sorry for the slow reply Buzz-

Barbaresco MGA: The Great Vineyard Encyclopedia
45,00 €


Very enjoyable reading. Talks more of the site than the wines. Very useful reference with the rapid proliferation of single vineyard Cru's.

[Buzz Basilone]

Thanks Jamie

Is that the one by Masnaghetti? I've got the one on Barolo- didn't recognise the typeset etc

[JamieBahrain]

Yes.

It's now Barolo MGA, Barbaresco MGA, Barolo MGA Vol 2, Barolo MGA second edition.

Some very dry reading but a superb reference. I find the Barbaresco book easier to get your claws around for some reason.

[JamieBahrain]

Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 2000- I think CF can be a wonderful expression of Barolo though recently, the pull-up effect of Monfortino makes its cost outweigh worth ! Though it's still somewhat affordable to experience the mature work of Roberto Conterno and I recommend this to any wine lover.

The wine is mature and holding. In a comfortable position with poise and elegance- tannins are near resolved so there's a pronounced acid carry. Choc-tar and floral decay, more primary on the palate. Lovely wine.

94pts




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Grimaldi's wines are a bit of a bargain. Family producer in a modernist style that will tweak and drive some pretty good wines in the future.

Giacomo Grimaldi Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore- House quaffer and performs best with a glass on day one with dinner and the slow-ox delivering a pretty expression of nebbiolo on day 2. Strawberry red florals in perfume, silken and complete palate, in a clean and robust structure of this classic Roero vineyard ( well worth a drive-by ).

90pts+

Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo 2013- Pungent wild berries in a warm and inviting aroma. Palate's evenly spread with dark violet-berry fruits, a little heavily extracted- though aeration sorts this out. Clean acidity with vanilla-berry grip.

89pts


Grimaldi Le Coste Barolo 2013- Far from ready and in a style that needs time for fair assessment . It's a Barolo Cru.

Heavy in dark fruits, violet shades, perhaps a sticky ripeness ( not jam ) with crunchy sea shell minearlity. Opens up more on day two and three with a beautiful lilium and blue floral perfume. Oaks in evidence on the palate with rich cherry fruit, sandalwood, menthol and orange spirit nuances adding complexity. Grippy and rough on the finish- needs time.

92pts+



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A few interesting ones opened over a few days-

Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 2015- Bit unfair to rate so early as off the boat a few weeks ago.

Very clean and pure aromatically: cherry-strawberry, new leather scents and dusty and dry cedar. Comes across rich and full, with immediacy due a round and filling palate, rather savoury then dusty-fine tannins. Terrific sense of place and flavors should build to replicate the beautiful aromatics delivering a solid to excellent PdB normale over the next 10 +.

92pts +

Prunotto Barbaresco 2015- Ripe and blocky on day one though day two delivers a different expression. Lighter by a fair degree, menthol, cherry-violet and a little Burgundian like undergrowth. Has good length with a long pause of austerity, rather bare-bones and Langhe nebbiolo like. Not good enough on this showing even at this entry level.

89pts


Borgogno "NO NAME " 2013- I love Italian politics when it delivers a protest bottle of Barolo for $20 AUD ! And to top it off fruit is from Cru sites such as Cannubi.

Concentrated scents of tar and dark roses. Classical and almost old fashioned, however, the fruit is in a purity perhaps not always seen in the old days. Showing the vintage with a completeness of the front and middle palates, in trail there's some aggression in acidity and tannin needing time. Sour red fruits, red rose and clean medicinal flavour persistence.

93pts+






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[JamieBahrain]

Olek Bondonio Barbaresco 2008 & 2011 - Both of these "normale" wines gently express the vintage with minimalist interference from the winemaker. The 2008 classical, cool and long, with a subtle fill of evolving fruit whilst the 2011 is loaded with warmer notes like goudron/tar and spikes on the finish. Both wines prettier and more accessible than Roncagliette for a few years after release - though now Roncagliette shows its mettle.

I sent Olek a note asking for a reservation of 2016's.......

[winetastic]

I sent Olek a note asking for a reservation of 2016's.......

Wise

[Ozzie W]

2013 Massolino Langhe Nebbiolo

From Serralunga. 14% ABV.

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Under screwcap.

Raspberry, dark cherry, blood orange, floral, earthy, liquorice. Bright acidity supported by dusty, tarry tannins which get more intense with air. Ticks all the right boxes. Yum!

[winetastic]

Would love to compare the screwcap with cork, sounds great

[JamieBahrain]

1999 Giovanni Corino Barolo Vecchie Vigne-This is old vines from a number of La Morra vineyards and there's a fair whack of oak which upsets many. However, and having easier access to aged versions of these styles they are far better with age than the splinterings of youth ! Rich and dark Barolo, complete and full offering with layers of fruit complexity and multitudes of exotic spice. Beautifully even and finishes fresh suggesting deft use of oak or the sheer power of then old plants.

The Corino brothers went a number of ways for those interested.

94pts


Just noted above one of their single vineyard offerings. Rated same.


1997 Giovanni Corino Barolo Vigna Giachini- Glorious expression of a Cru La Morra vineyard where time has done its magic and smoothed over a modernist approach. Fresh and complete, popped and poured and delivers a multi-faceted wine of great complexity. Tadpole-tail long tannins with the hint of some wood. 94pts






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[michel]

I get this is a Barolo thread but....

2010 cerbaiona brunello di montalcino
My third experience with one of the Planets great freak wine
I had a bottle sequestered for the Madame Bollinger life event of death
It is Musigny waterfall like with transparency of hard candy , sous bois, earth and synaesthesia purple
The palate and finish is one seamless experience

One of the greatest wines in a lifetime

100/100

[JamieBahrain]

I opened three bottles up and consumed over the week. I don't believe there's any other wine you can do this with.

Marcarini Barolo La Serra 2008- This is a great expression of the 2008 season from a La Morra Cru vineyard that expresses perhaps a little underweight though with elegant charm. It's in a window whereby the aromatics are not dissimilar to the flavour profile. Composites of red fruits, fresh hay and quaint spices. Lump of warm, classic tar and roses fruit notes that carries comfortably on a finish of moderate intensity and furry tannin extract. Over the days the wine becomes mentholated and the fruit more red curranted- still gently talcy fruit tannin.

91pts


Marcarini Barolo Brunate 2008- Displaying the power and firmness of Brunate- clean aromatics licorice and spice fresh tar and baked earth. Beautiful and complete wine in the mouth, a powerful drive of unevolved dark fruits with sour cherry and thyme infused acidity moderating a clean and even finish.

Over the days the wine builds more power commanding food- though loses some of the initial beauty.

93pts +

Boroli Barolo Villero 2006- Small barrel influences with monster black fruits absorbing the barrel fight- leaving ferocious sweet fruits in spices. Sits quite full though with the charm of Villero- heavily extracted fruit tannins / wet tobacco like. Has great moments and worth a punt in the cellar.

92pts +

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[JamieBahrain]

Just putting a report together for this ripper event



HKWS Barolo Tasting: Decanting or Slow-Ox? (subsidised)

Location: AnOther Place, 5/F, Block C, Sea View Estate, 2-8 Watson Road, Tin Hau
Date: 5th March 2019 (Tuesday)
Time: 7pm
Price: HK$ 2000 (HKWS subsidised price for members only), $2300 (non-members)


Dear Jamie,

"Everybody knows that when someone is found in a desert, still living but lacking cruelly of food and water, it is crucially important to feed him extremely slowly. If fed too quickly, he could die.

So, the so-called Audouze method should be called : slow oxygenation method. But as some of you have tried to use it by making innovations, I would be happy that this method would be called : “do nothing method”." - François Audouze

How should we serve old and young Barolo?
By decanting, or by the slow oxygenation (slow-ox) method? For how long?
The Slow-Ox method, or the Audouze method, was first popularized on the forum of erobertparker.com by Francois Audouze, one of the best know wine collectors and advocates of older wine in France.
It is a very simple method:

You open a wine 4 to 5 hours before drinking
You let it stand
You do not touch it anymore
When it is time, you pour it in the glasses
Point.
Audouze mainly uses this method for opening old French wines, but when winelovers around the world uses his method on Barolo wines, the reported opening time increased from hours to days.

Personally, I have had many young Barolo which needs over 5 days of slow-ox to express themselves, while there is a group of Barolo lovers which slow-ox old Barolo (70s or older) for days before serving.
In contrast, aeration time for decanting is much simpler, the common consensus seems to be 2-4 hours before serving.
Advocates of the slow-ox method believes that excessive decanting would greatly reduces the aromas of the wine, and possibly leads to premature shutdown.

In this tasting, I would be serving 6 Barolos, young and old (with representative for each decade from 1971 to 2014), from 6 reference producers: Brovia, Cavallotto, Cerretto Bricco Rocche, Domenico Clerico, Aldo Conterno and Francesco Rinaldi.
Two bottles of the same wine will be prepared with the two methods: 1) Decanting for 3-4 hours, 2) Slow-Ox for 3-4 days. The twelve wines will then be served blinded, rated and discussed.

In typical HKWS fashion, the fun does not stop here, a third bottle of the 6 tasting wines will be prepared by the classic Audouze Method (4 hours slow-ox) and served with the second course of the dinner, a chance to look deeper into the subject with the identify of the wines revealed.

The last course of the menu is paired with a mini-horizontal 2006 tasting of three great Barolo Traditionist: Bartolo Mascarello Barolo, Giuseppe Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris, and Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia.

Tasting Wines:
2 bottles each of 6 Barolos, from 1971 to 2014, from Brovia, Cavallotto (Bricco Boschis), Cerretto Bricco Rocche (Brunate), Domenico Clerico (Pajana), Aldo Conterno (Romirasco) and Francesco Rinaldi.
Method A: Decanting for 3-4 hours
Method B: Slow-Ox for 3-4 days

Dinner Wines:
1) 2016 Claudio Mariotto Timorasso Pitasso
2) A third bottle of the 6 Tasting Barolos, Slow-Ox for 4 hours (Original Audouze Method).
3) 2006 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo (Magnum), 2006 Giuseppe Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris, and 2006 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia.

Dinner Menu:
Course 1: Pan seared Hokkaido scallop, cauliflower puree, pancetta, bagna cauda foam
Course 2: Risotto Carnaroli, wild mushroom and Barolo
Course 3: Wagyu rump steak, nozaki ranch, seared baby carrots, Barolo juice
Coures 4: Selection of Italian Cheese Parmiggiano Reggiano 24 months, Pecorino, Taleggio