The non-Rioja Riojas

[Dang]

A blind vertical tasting of some rather iconic Spanish wines: Artadi wines. Artadi basically represents Rioja for many decades, stressing what is good Tempranillo is all about. However, in December 2015, it decided that too many Rioja producers were more interested in making cheap wines, instead of quality. So Artadi has left the appellation and no Artadi would have Rioja on the label.
Our cellarmaster has collected over the years some rather interesting specimens, so onward with a vertical. The lineup is rather simple: Artadi only makes two reds, Pagos Viejos (a blend of three over 75yo vineyards) and Vina El Pison (from a single vineyard planted in 1945).The PV is about CAD100 and the VeP costs around CAD300. The wines tasted were '01, '04, '05, '06, '07 PVs and '95, '04, '05 VePs. The '04 el Pison received the 100 score from RP and is now trading at about CAD750. The RP scores for the rest hover around 94-98.
They were all well balanced and with soft tannins they were great sipping wines with long fruity finish. To choose the WOTN is almost a futile exercise since they were most enjoyable, matching well our stewed leg of lamb. My decision came from the first sniff, the pain grille (toasted bread) smell of breakfast. The choice: '95 VeP. For the majority, the '07 PV was their choice, a much younger wine, again with plenty of pain grille. All wines have plenty of red and black fruit, balsamic flavour and hefty spices, all in balance.
What a wonderful tasting!

[sjw_11]

Interesting, I have seen this producer around but never really looked into them.

FYI, they do produce a few other reds as well... at least some are available from my usual Spanish merchant... El Carretil (about £160), La Poza de Ballesteros (£80), Valdeginés (£45), Viñas de Gaín (£17) and a basic Tempranillo and Joven (both around £9). All appear to be straight Tempranillo, except the Joven has 10% Viura.

For what it's worth, direct from Spain this retailer has the El Pison 2014 for £242 or 2015 for £328 and the Pagos Viejos for £58 (2006) or £134 (2001). So it looks like you get a reasonable deal on these in Canada.

Over £200/bttl there is just so much competition, I mean you are really pricing up against some of the finest wines around... Maybe I will pick up the Pagos Viejos 2006, how did that and the 2001 look in your tasting?

[Dang]

Thanks, Sam for the info. I should really have meant Artadi's top reds. Anyway, the winemaker's notes mentioned that manual punch-downs and pump-overs were performed twice daily. Does that account for the soft tannins that are not obstrusive, even eliminating the need for food?
The '01 PV was well liked and came second. It got an RP rating of 97. The '06 has a lower rating. The difference between those two wines came first from the appearance. The '01 was decidely lighter in colour, ruby red (very similar to the '95 EP) compared with the rest 6 wines with had the dark ruby red appearance, which seemed to indicate a younger wine. During the tasting, my choice was the '95 EP. As mentioned, the pain grille got me! Secondly, rating is usually given to the young wine. Who knows what happens 15 yrs down the road. Some Artadi wines are supposed to last for 40-45 yrs.
We are really thankful to our cellarmaster who had the foresight to obtain these wines when their prices are still reachable.

[sjw_11]

Thanks, Sam for the info. I should really have meant Artadi's top reds. Anyway, the winemaker's notes mentioned that manual punch-downs and pump-overs were performed twice daily. Does that account for the soft tannins that are not obstrusive, even eliminating the need for food?
The '01 PV was well liked and came second. It got an RP rating of 97. The '06 has a lower rating. The difference between those two wines came first from the appearance. The '01 was decidely lighter in colour, ruby red (very similar to the '95 EP) compared with the rest 6 wines with had the dark ruby red appearance, which seemed to indicate a younger wine. During the tasting, my choice was the '95 EP. As mentioned, the pain grille got me! Secondly, rating is usually given to the young wine. Who knows what happens 15 yrs down the road. Some Artadi wines are supposed to last for 40-45 yrs.
We are really thankful to our cellarmaster who had the foresight to obtain these wines when their prices are still reachable.

Thanks for the comments Dang, cheers !

[Mahmoud Ali]

Who knows what happens 15 yrs down the road. Some Artadi wines are supposed to last for 40-45 yrs.

Well, considering that Rioja Gran Resevas from many traditional producers do last that long, it's the least that Artadi should strive for in their top wines.

I'm not too sure I would be keen on a C$300 fruity Rioja. For just under that price there is 1964 Faustino I Gran Reserva in the Edmonton market that would be more tempting. It's a late release from the winery and is already 54 years old.

Mahmoud.

[Pej]

I visited the winery a couple of years ago. It's refreshing to see them really focus on single vineyard wines and no American oak. Rioja needs it. They said they weren't even going to continue making the Pagos Viejos anymore as it is a blend of several vineyards. They put on a great little tour and you finish up tasting their wines in an ancient building in the wall of the city. Built in the 10th century. They move all the barrels here in the summer to keep nice and cool.

El Pison is a great wine though. I'm kind of surprised Parker rates them so highly as they aren't blockbuster wines.