JamieBahrain wrote:A good friend of mine now has the agency for Albino Rocca in HKG so I had a look at three of the Cru's from 2014 over a week.
2014 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Ronchi- Throughout the week, beguiling florals, loaded with minerals and complex herbs, as expected Barbaresco red fruited tones and menthol. Fruit wraps itself around a lean, austere hollow, of excellent length. By day six development shows pleasant leather and cherry-mineral fruit, I feel the wine will flesh out well in the medium term to long term but perhaps not the gusto to survive the preserving structure to be rated as the greatest of vintages. Happy to put this wine away though.
93pts+
Albino Rocca Barbaresco Montersino 2014- This is a newbee from the edges of Alba and on this experience I won't be shy of San Rocco Seno d'Elvio ( the fourth commune of Barbaresco though I believe this has changed ).
More full and round than Ronchi; showing wild dark berries, leather and licorice all-sorts aromatically, which is fascinating over the week’s showing.The wine is ripe and full on the structural edges, savoury oak with blue/ black fruited flavour profile in a Nebbiolo sense. Broadens on the finish with spices and a rise of ripe, wood supported tannin.
92pts+
Albino Rocca 2014 Barbaresco Ovello Vigna Loreto 2014- From a sub-region of Vigna Loreto within Ovello. As expected, took a wrenching to open up- stone faced until day four ! Typically Ovello with intense choc-minted dark fruits, clay,wood spice and I enjoyed an unexpected red fruited lift. Full bodied and dense, consistently chalky/calcareous at the edges- meaty fruit persistence in clay-earth tannins.
Quite something!
94pts +
Thanks for the notes on the Rocca Crus Jamie. I ended up opening the standard 2014 Barbaresco a few weeks back. Sounds like it’s somewhere closer in style to the Ronchi to start, though it did fill out and get darker with time open. My (much simpler) note:
Albino Rocca Barbaresco tonight, good value locally. Floral on opening, red fruits, higher tone and a little nervy. With time open, a darker personality - liquorice, bitumen and damp earth, reassuring tannin. Thoroughly enjoyed it, good bet for me.
Sounds like a good 2014. The best will build a touch of muscle over time in my opinion, though not enough to be deemed a classic/superior vintage but enough for my enjoyment in a decade +
"Barolo is Barolo, you can't describe it, just as you can't describe Picasso"
Bruno Rocca Barbaresco 2009- Starts understated though builds quickly toward quite complex and rich aromatics of anise, salty fresh leather and the typical red and black fruited amalgam of ripe nebbiolo. Fruit sits nice and fat on the structural edges, warm austerity at and through the core, ripe tannins supported by gentle oak notes.
Colour showed a lot of development suggesting a fast maturer. Vineyards are around Neive
90pts
Giovanni Manzone Barolo Bricat 2007- Monforte fruit which muscled the 2007 vintage along its way. Over three days it builds some great aromatics- bright fruited plum and rose petals contrasted with beef stock, tobacco and a mineral clay-sludge. Typically 2007 on the palate loaded with dark and full coal like fruit notes that evenly spread and fill the palate. Firm tannin rise and alcohol bite completes.
G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole 2001- Here's a producer ably demonstrating the upswing and upside to Barolo. I'd argue BdV is a much better wine now ! It's an amazing vineyard site, western most in Barolo and the highest in La Morra. A complex Tortonian terroir of white soils, clay and sand, driving the elegance accentuated by altitude. The vineyard maintains the same temperature as much lower sites though at night it's cooler- driving pristine and complex aromatics.
Aeration was needed so I used a half-decanter from the armoury!
Aromatics are rich, red and black licorice like a simple descriptor, with an underlying buzz of unyielding dark fruits, spices and dry red florals. Medium to full with a perfect spread of dark, tar like fruit that gently un-peels over the evening; becoming brighter and more red shaded. Ultra fine tannins spread on the finish.
Well worth getting on board Vajra. It's not appreciating too dramatically but will!
Never had any Barolo by Vajra, nor from BdV Cru. Just received a few bottles of Vajra Ravera 2013. Any comments on this wine or Cru in general? How would it compare to BdV?
Never had them side by side. Ravera is long lived needing cellaring whereas BdV will be more approachable and better with cellaring. Climate changes complicate simple comparisons. Ravera have beautiful aromatics too as I think its elevation a little higher than the surrounds - a beautiful walk I once did.
Would be great to see a few "themed" Barolo offlines in Oz. Happy to help out if interest. I can source and carry wines to Oz. I think I've offered this before but perhaps people prefer to arrive at offlines with their own stock- which can make a consistent them difficult.
"Barolo is Barolo, you can't describe it, just as you can't describe Picasso"
JamieBahrain wrote:Never had them side by side. Ravera is long lived needing cellaring whereas BdV will be more approachable and better with cellaring. Climate changes complicate simple comparisons. Ravera have beautiful aromatics too as I think its elevation a little higher than the surrounds - a beautiful walk I once did.
Would be great to see a few "themed" Barolo offlines in Oz. Happy to help out if interest. I can source and carry wines to Oz. I think I've offered this before but perhaps people prefer to arrive at offlines with their own stock- which can make a consistent them difficult.
I'd be very keen for a Themed Barolo offline ... happy to contribute if I have them, or more likely, accept Jamie's kind offer!!
Boireann Nebbiolo 2016 and Boireann "La Cima Rosso" 2016 (a nebbiolo/barbera blend). The first needs 5 years in a dark corner. The second one is a delcious quaffing wine.
Three "quaffers". None I rated above 89pts. Solid wines at their best, Alario suffered at the hands of the warm vintage and oak mid-bottle and the Col Dei Venti was very industrial- though with air it delivered beauty and personality. The Col Dei Venti Barolo 2012 pushed 90pts the tannins were just a little awkward.
I'm hosting an Azelia tasting in the coming December. I want people to consider the complexity of modernist/traditionalist and oak regimes.
Azelia Barolo San Rocco 1996- Small barrels meets Serralunga. Not decanted though it would benefit an hour. Complex spiced dark fruits and tar freshens in the glass and by mid-bottle toward florals, aniseed, funghe and root beer. Perfect volume of fruit and palate spread, there's a cylindrical core of Serralunga ferrous austerity that drives the wine structurally like a turbine shaft. Got better over the night. Easy completion of very fine, near resolved tannin.
94pts
Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco 1996- The well at the top of the hill in Castiglione Falletto? Again, unlike Margheria, small oak barrels.
Ever changing, though best with stony florals, ornage peel, porcini and sweet spice. Dried cherry and leather-tar, rich earth too. Fresh and lively with biting acidity in all phases. Expansive and full, with a good flood of dark violet fruit - it lacks the exotic nature of San Rocco - though delivers comfort and satisfaction.
JamieBahrain wrote:I'm hosting an Azelia tasting in the coming December. I want people to consider the complexity of modernist/traditionalist and oak regimes.
I've tasted a bit from this producer and have some bottles in the cellar. I quite like them. I think they hold their own when tasted blind in a Barolo line-up.
Back vintages are still available retail in Oz, back to 1999. If anyone is interested, Gavin has access to them.
A 2010 Fontanafredda Barolo tonight, one of those large production Barolo wines that meet the supermarket volume constraints. The upside is their regular loss-leading promotions that put it at the price of a decent to middling langhe nebbiolo. It's also made in a somewhat accessible style which makes drinking it at 8 years old quite practical.
Overall it is a little youthful - with perky acidity and background but persistent tannins, youthful (sour) cherry fruit and still a little oaky on the nose. Rated as a Barolo, it would disappoint. However at (IIRC) ~ £15 a bottle, it's competing more with the Nebbiolo d'Alba and Langhe Nebbiolo wines, and against them it competes well. A useful cellar defender.
Continued my look at Azelia in anticipation of a tasting in December that shows time can heal all with small new oak.
1990 Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco Riserva- Aromatically tight. I'd poured it into a half decanter and let sit a few hours. On pouring in the glass still nothing, so re-poured back into the decanter and came back an hour later. Slowly opening up, saline high notes and a floral tingle, licorice and an aged rusty buzz. Bright fruit in commanding support. Typical of previous Azelias, there's good density and palate spread a beam of pencil like oak discenible the wine maintains its freshness throughout, tender tree bark fine tannins in the finish.
1999 Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco- I'm finding the San Rocco Serralunga is handling the oak way better than Bricco Fiasco. Concerns of oak in Azelia ring true here. At near twenty years it dominates. My wife said the wine delicious and I said sure thing Miss American Pie.
I'm not sure if they have cinnabon in Australia- they probably do as part of the mall cutlure. Anyways, cinnabon nose, florals, sweet black cherries. Lovely silken texture of sweet delicious fruit infused with smoked ribs and cola, long finish with a dessert custard note.
JamieBahrain wrote:1999 Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco- I'm finding the San Rocco Serralunga is handling the oak way better than Bricco Fiasco. Concerns of oak in Azelia ring true here. At near twenty years it dominates. My wife said the wine delicious and I said sure thing Miss American Pie.
Do you think the oak will meld into the fruit with further cellaring?
I'm quite open minded with oak and the complex arguments of modernist / traditionalist stemming from drinking many of the original Barolo Boys' early expressions at 20 to 30 years of age. There wasn't overt oak influence in time.
The 1999 Bricco Fiasco will never shed the oak in my opinion. It's not an unenjoyable wine in its modern, Parkerized/Americanized fashion. I can't see the winery persisting with the style and I understand oak has wound off significantly. San Rocco handles the oak better. And of course, Margheria is big botti.
I'm a little concerned as I was hoping to present a tasting showing how oak can be positive long term or subside enough for traditionalist to be able to palate the expressions positively.
"Barolo is Barolo, you can't describe it, just as you can't describe Picasso"
In addition to overt oak, the other concern about the extremes of modernism, was the levels of (over)ripeness and whether the softening of wines in their youth would compromise longevity and long-term balance. I'm interested in your opinion on this Jamie (and indeed others that have tasted widely from the modernist end of the spectrum).
Those I have drunk, have typically been at ~ 10-15 years old. A number were drinking well, though they tended not to close down in the same way as trad wines, and I still had the feeling that 15-20 years old might be the sweet spot for those I drank. The one exception was a prestigious producer (I've mentioned here before so I won't twist the knife in them), whose wines varied between dull and oxidised at 12-15 years.
Tonight a 1996 Einaudi Barolo nei Cannubi (after a corked Burlotto Barbera went down the sink). The Barolo still a little young for my tastes, but very enjoyable nonetheless. For me the fruit is still very much primary, supported by vibrant acidity. I tend to prefer it when the fruit starts to decay and take on figgy/other complexity.
Giacomo Grimaldi Valmaggiore Nebbiolo d'Alba 2015- Sandrone drew me to the spectacular amphitheatre of Valmaggiore in the Langhe. I found Giacosa soon after and now there seem to many more including Brovia and Grimaldi.
For $20 there's a lot of interest. I've had a few as quaffers this week. Thy start bright and juicy- red fruited on a lean and airy palate base. After a day it swaps around, with airy, aromatic florals, strawberries and spices, whilst the fruit darkens on the palate, ripens and lends nicely toward some barrique influences.
Only just off the boat. Probably should have let them settle a little longer. The 2008 Barolo is a classic and well regarded in Piedmont. Cops a little flack in recent blogs but I can't see it here tonight.
Wines consumed over two days.
Fratelli Brovia Barolo Garblèt Sué 2008- Starts quite ripe and extracted though with an overall elegance and charm. A little less imposing than the Bricco Boschis. Shows classic herbs, wet earth and florals of the Fiasco vineyard in Castiglione Faletto. Dark and brooding, more like a 2007 on day one though an overall poise the giveaway of the more classic 2008 vintage. Interesting slatey tannins and citrus bitters complete.
Day two it starts to show. I'd say it's still 5 years from its window. Beautiful, velvety wine, power and grace. The wine deepens but it becomes more nuanced too. The finish is now regal- gently herbed, tanned leather and the tannins sweeten.
94pts+
Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 2008- Even on day one in its rawness, the wine displays Cavallotto's mark of bold and powerful Barolo in striking refinement. Air really helps and after a day opened, the bold, dark extracts of day one move toward a perfume and polish. Potpourri, grilled meats, dark tea, it's still showing unevolved violet fruit, chocolate and tar- though like the Brovia, it's un-peeling. Complex tannin structure in a softly mentholated persistence with black tea/ dark violet notes.
Checking cellartracker I'm delighted to have their two riservas in six packs from 2008 in Australia. I'll send most of this six pack home too.
2004s Trio
Mascarello was sweet plump and approachable
Capellano and Rinaldi were shy and delicate
Fine wines with great provenance
Giacomo Conterno
2005 the most primary GC I have ever tried
Watermelon was the character that was suggested is the CF hallmark
2007 was intense long but pretty perfume
2004 Giacomo Conterno Montfortino was a thrilling roller coaster of perfume and complexity
A truly great wine
michel wrote:2004s Trio
Mascarello was sweet plump and approachable
Capellano and Rinaldi were shy and delicate
Fine wines with great provenance
Giacomo Conterno
2005 the most primary GC I have ever tried
Watermelon was the character that was suggested is the CF hallmark
2007 was intense long but pretty perfume
2004 Giacomo Conterno Montfortino was a thrilling roller coaster of perfume and complexity
A truly great wine
Lovely line up Michel. Only the Bartolo would be drinking well now? I hope you have more. They will be priceless soon. The 2004 Monfortino is a 1000USD + wine now.
I'm still back-filling 2007 CF. It's cheaper than many vintages and contains declassified Monfortino.
"Barolo is Barolo, you can't describe it, just as you can't describe Picasso"
JamieBahrain wrote:Lovely line up Michel. Only the Bartolo would be drinking well now? I hope you have more. They will be priceless soon. The 2004 Monfortino is a 1000USD + wine now.
I'm still back-filling 2007 CF. It's cheaper than many vintages and contains declassified Monfortino.
These producers are getting so hard to get now days.
Wish I got more a few years ago.
Yes they are people's high-end and traditional go-to wines. There's a lot of interest.
But other producers have great vineyards too. There's plenty undiscovered! Cappellano was undiscovered up until recently- certainly the pictured 2004 vintage at release was cheap. I've been scolded for writing up events on beserkers as the attention of late for Cappellano insatiable.
Snap forward a decade who could you proudly have in a line up like the above? Vajra and Brovia Crus? Burlotto's Monvigliero. Some new Gaja Cru's?
"Barolo is Barolo, you can't describe it, just as you can't describe Picasso"
Delayed and brief notes from a Piemonte tasting focused on 2014, held by Justerini and Brooks at Church House in Westminster on March 21st 2018. I know I am far from the Piemonte expert, but here are my brief notes for what they were worth, in order of tasting. Apologies there are a few sneaky non-BBN wines in the mix!
David Carlone
From the very Northern region of Boca. Apparently a real trail blazer trying to keep this small region alive.
Croatina, 2016- Very fresh, ripe red/purple fruits. Good drinking
Vespolina, 2016- Confection, red lollies, musk with just a hint of interesting depth to the flavour.
Boca, 2014- 85% Nebbiolo, 15% Vespolina. Aged for 2Y in large botti. Sweet, slightly stewed nose. Good length and definition on the palate.
Boca, 2013- This has a hint more funk, and earth. Much more powerful.
Matteo Correggia
Based in Roero, this is a small family run winery.
Roero Arneis, 2016- Fresh, clean. Zippy and refreshing.
Barbera d'Alba, Bricco Marun, 2013- Good depth. Some secondary funk/earthy characters.
Roero, Val dei Preti, 2014- Sweet, pretty red fruits, light florals. Little sweet/one dimensional. Pleasant if slightly simple on the palate.
Roero, Roche d'Ampsej, 2013- Significantly more depth. Bitumen, violets, sweet red fruits. Approachable now with tannins well resolved but should go a bit longer.
Cascina Luisin
Cascina Luisin is situated in the Rabajà aera in the territory of Barbaresco, with 8ha of vineyards and produces an average of 30,000 bottles pa.
Barbaresco, Rabaja, 2013- Developed colour, quite pale. Pretty florals. Very pretty wine with nice fruit. Ready to go.
Barbaresco, Asili, 2013- Even paler, but slightly darker in character on the nose. Much fuller bodied on the palate. Needs more time.
Piero Busso
Based in Neive and has at its core vines planted in the Albesani vineyard opposite the winery as well as parcels in the Gallina vineyard and Treiso's San Stunet. "Winemaking is traditional here, long and slow, up to 45 days maceration on the skins, and ageing is in 25hl slavonian oak casks for two years."
Barbaresco, Albesani-Borgese, 2014- Mid-red. Very fresh fruit driven nose. Masses of tannin and length to turn. Lovely purity of fruit.
Barbaresco, San Stunet, 2014- More pretty nose, some floral elements. Still very primary and fresh. Darker and more backwards on the plate, but oddly less firm in terms of tannin.
Barbaresco, Gallina, 2014- Riper, but also more savoury and backwards on the nose. Great purity of definition on the palate. Firm tanning but manageable today. Mid-term proposition.
Castello di Verduno
Wonderful mis translation from their own website to explain this producer: "The vinbeards followed with attention and expert hand of Franco. Each vines is cure, from pruning until harvest, with a target to get a good product for reach high qualitivity standard of fruit into fisiologique respect of the plant."
Barbaresco, 2015- Pretty floral notes. Very pale/light red. Simple but not unattractive red fruit profile. Drinkable now.
Barbaresco, Rabaja, 2013- Not overly impressive- slightly simple. Very lifted, light red fruit florals.
Barolo, 2014- Darker nose, some tarry notes. Much denser and darker on the palate, but somewhat lacking definition.
Barolo, Massara, 2012- Slightly backwards on the nose. Sweet, simple fruit.
Barolo Riserva, Monvigliero, 2011- A real step up in intensity with lifted, dark floral note. Really rather beguiling but on the darker side of the register. Much cooler and more elegant on the palate than that suggests. Really pretty red fruits, violets. *
Marengo
Marengo is a long-term family owned winery with 6ha, of which 1.2ha is in Le Brunate, a grand cru of La Morra and 1ha in Bricco delle Viole, one of the main crus of the town of Barolo.
Barolo, 2014- Dense, dark nose. Good colour and freshness. Excellent value.
Barolo, Bricco Viole, 2014- More lifted and floral on the nose. Sweet, juicy palate.
Barolo, Brunate, 2014- A little darker, and more assertive. Hard to assess now- needs time.
Barolo Riserva, Brunate, 2012- Quite profound. Still very youthful, dense and muscular. Needs time.
Barolo Riserva, Brunate, 2010- Good dark red colour. More developed and etheral nose. I also wrote "little frayed" with frayed underlined. I have no idea what I meant, but there you go.
Elio Altare
An early experimenter with more modern techniques. Largely organic production, indigenous yeasts, minimal intervention and minimal sulphur.
Barbera, Larigi, 2015- Very fine. Great depth. GBP50/bottle? Tell 'em they are dreaming.
La Villa, Langhe Rosso, 2015- Very fresh. Drinking well now. 85% Barbera/15% Nebbiolo.
Giaborina, Langhe, 2015- Straight Neb. Pretty, fresh, early drinking.
Barolo, 2014- Sweet and sour flavour profile. Quite fresh.
Barolo, Vigneto Arborina, 2014- Better. Very clean, modern nose but with good depth of sweet fruit on the palate.
Barolo, Cerretta Vigna Bricco, 2012- Good, clean, deep. Structured, with a lingering flavour. Lacking character perhaps?
Roberto Voerzio
Probably the most expensive line up of wines on show today. BBR describes them as the "original modernist Barolo estate". Prices are about GBP180/bottle in this tasting offer.
Barolo, Sarmassa, 2014- Mid-red. Not hugely expressive nose. Very lifted and ethereal. Huge power and depth on the palate.
Barolo, Rocche dell'Annunziata, 2014- Simple. I do not get this wine.
Barolo, Cerequio, 2014- Very sappy and stemmy on the nose. Sweet palate. Less modern, more backwards.
Barolo, Torriglione, 2013- Fine.
Barolo Riserva 10 Anni, Fossati, 2008- Much more arresting on the nose. More open. Still needs time.
Giuseppe Mascarello
Well known, traditionalist producer with a long history.
Barolo, Monprivato, 2013- Very clean, modern.
Barolo, Monprivato, 2012- More open and expressive.
Barolo, Villero, 2011- Reductive, but more open and pleasant on the palate.
Fratelli Brovia
A traditionalist producer with vineyards are spread over the Castiglione and Serralunga communes.
Barolo, Unio, 2014- Very intriguing nose. Almost a hint of sweat. Slightly bizarre.
Barolo, 2013- Also slightly unusual and a bit disjointed.
Barolo, Rocche di Castiglione, 2012- Very nice, pretty and elegant wine. Drinking well now.
Barolo, Rocche di Castiglione, 2011- Completely different to the 2012. Drier and more savoury.
Azelia
According to Justerini's this producer has moved away from a large percentage of new oak and towards more traditional methods. Not so many notes here as I was running out of time before the end of the tasting.
Barolo, Classico, 2013- Good.
Barolo, Bricco Fiasco, 2014- Feminine wine. Sandy soils.
Barolo, San Rocco, 2014- Clay soils. No notes but marked as recommended.
And a few random ones from the last tables where I had anything to note:
Paolo Scavino, Barolo Carobric, 2014- Nice, fresh and clean with good depth.
Luigi Oddero, Barbaresco, Rombone, 2015- Very fresh and drinking surprisingly well now.
Luigi Oddero Barolo Rocche Rivera, 2014- Great.
Luigi Oddero Barolo Vigna Rionda 2012- Blah. Stewed.
Many thanks for the notes Sam, and good to see entrants from the Roero and Northern Piemonte.
Not surprised by the mispronunciation, as despite them being attached to the fancy hotel, the visit we had was conducted in Italian and therefore I was on translation duties.
