Grand Cru (Perth) tasting group - August 23 - Pinot Noir

[Waiters Friend]

G’day

This month’s Grand Cru tasting returned to a theme we have tackled before: Pinot Noir. Eleven of us each brought a bottle from anywhere in the world, and of any vintage.

As usual, the wines were bagged up and tasted blind, with the only indicator being the vintage written on the bag (we taste from young to old).

The usual disclaimer: the notes below are a compilation of the group’s comments and do not only reflet my opinion. In this case, even more so, as my nose mysteriously stopped working the day before this tasting, and as a result, all I got from 11 wines was largely tannins and acid. Everyone else got lots more.

We also vote on wine of the bracket, and the winners then compete for wine of the night. Votes for wine of the bracket are recorded below.

We started with a quartet of 2015s – well, we thought we were ……

Eddystone Point 2015 (N/E Tasmania, 13.5% alc): Bright garnet in colour. An initial wallop of sulphur dissipated to reveal lots of bright red fruit, including strawberry. The fruit was considered confected and jubey, and was competing with lots of oak. The palate showed leather, cherry and white pepper. Tannins are fine (as you would expect) and there’s good acidity. The finish was short and savoury. It was considered a ‘drink now to 5 years’ wine, and ‘incomplete’. No votes.

Eastern Peak Pinot Noir 2013 (Ballarat, Victoria, 13% alc). Yes, 2013 – one of the tasters made a blue. Deep red / garnet colour. The nose shows meaty characters alongside dark red fruits. There’s also a slight earthiness and mushroom. The palate offers cranberry, raspberry, and black pepper, supported by medium/high acidity and a medium length / palate weight that was considered well balanced. There was definitely more new oak in this wine than the first wine. The wine was a little divisive in some respects, with some tasters considering the nose to be big leading to an elegant or ethereal palate, while others suggested the nose did not reflect varietal pinot noir characters. The wine will last for some years, and received 6 votes.

Payton & Jones Brown’s Block 2015 (Kilmore, Victoria, 13% alc) is a paler wine. There’s a delicate, “pretty” nose of subtle red fruits and dried herbs. The palate has prominent acid and a slight astringency. It’s tart, slightly bitter and a briny character. There’s a noticeably limited middle palate. Modest tannins lead to a linear finish. The group enjoyed the wine nonetheless (although there was no ‘wow’ factor), and felt it is too young and slightly shut down at present. 4 votes.

Jean Clause Boisset ‘Les Ursulines’ 2015 (Burgundy, 12.5% alc). Pale garnet in colour. This is perfumed with pot pourri. Some fresh red fruitsand jube characters alongside sappiness, soapiness, pencil shavings and high toast oak. The perfume carries over to the palate, with some tar or smokiness, sour cherry, and green / sappy tannins. Acid is modest and it has a medium length only. No votes.

We then moved onto the second bracket (of three wines) from 2014 and 2013

The Truffle and Wine Co Pinot Noir 2014 (Willamate Valley Oregon USA, 13.9% alc). Dark garnet bordering on purple. The nose is all oak – coconut, sandalwood and some astringency. This smells more like a big shiraz than a pinot. It’s dark fruited with big acid, and more astringency on the palate. It’s just, well, a big red wine. No votes.

Freycinet Pinot Noir 2014 (Tasmania, 14.8% alc). Dark red / garnet. There’s initially some reductive characters – sulphur and cabbage – on the nose. There’s also strawberry, some meats, alongside some greenness and stalkiness. The palate is meaty, funky, with dark candied cherry fruit. There’s some bitter chocolate as well. Opinion was divided over the length of the wine – some finding it short and flat, with others considering it to be long. Some found minerality and savoury characters while others suggested it was overly tannic and green. We were possibly drinking this 5-10 years too early. 2 votes.

Valli Waitake Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013 (North Otago, NZ, 13.5% alc). Darker red, with slight brown tinges. This is perfumed, with white pepper, red licorice, raspberry and white chocolate, while the palate shows big red fruits, crunchy tannins, high acid and a good length. Overall, the wine is well integrated. Although we’re drinking it too young, it found favour with the group with 9 votes.

A trio of ‘10s followed.

Dry River Pinot Noir 2010 (Martinborough NZ, 13% alc) is a light purple in colour. It’s porty, with raisined and stewed fruits, and what appeared to be high or prominent alcohol. The palate is also raisined with over-ripe fruit, a high viscosity and palate weight. Possible 2-3 years past its best, this was a monster which was more light a heavy dry red than a pinot. 3 votes.

Marchand and Burch Nuits St George 2010 (Burgundy). Red brown in colour. Elegant, with floral complexity. There’s bright, lifted fruit and some toast. There’s lots of sweet fruit on the palate, accompanied by high acid, and fine drying tannins. This wine gained complexity with time in the glass. Some tasters considered this to be a little unbalanced due to the high acid, and possibly too young. It received 7 votes nevertheless.

Bannockburn “Stuart” Pinot Noir 2010 (Geelong, Victoria, 12.5% alc). Born / red in colour. The nose showed cabbage (still in its earth, apparently!), green tomato, tabasco or Worcestershire sauce. There’s prominent acid, stewed figs, and caramelised fruit. Clearly oxidised, and got worse in the glass.

A pair of wines from last decade rounded out the tasting.

Yarralock Pinot Noir 2008 (Coldstream, Yarra Valley, Victoria, 13.5% alc) is dark red with a touch of brown. There’s leather, some strawberry ‘rollups’ (the confectionery), cold tea, toffee and game. It smelled a fraction flat, but this changed on the palate, with more of the same characters amplified slightly, and supported by soft acid and too much tannin. It’s transitioning to tertiary development, and won’t get any better. 8 votes, however.

Ashley Estate Pinor Noir 2007 (Perth Hills 13.8% alc). Red brick in colour. Obvious alcohol, with concentrated cherry liqueur. The palate offers tangy fruit, zippy acid and ripe lifted fruit. There’s also chewy tannic grip. More a dry red than a pinot, at 10 years it’s holding up well, and is more like an old style Hunter burgundy. 2 votes.

It’s probably no surprise that a Burgundy got wine of the night – in this case, the Marchand and Burch Nuits St George 2010. Although I didn’t bring this wine, I am fortunate to have a few in the cellar, and this tasting has given me a preview of what to expect.

Thanks to all who joined us – debate was very lively at times – and to the Terrace Hotel for hosting us in fine style.

Cheers
Allan

[felixp21]

many thanks, Allan, interesting.
The Boisset is 4.5 euros ex-cellar, but didn't grab my attention even at that price.... looks like you thought likewise.
Pascal Marchand has employed two super talented winemakers and the results are beginning to show, although most 2010 NSG aren't in a good place right now, and virtually all need to be re-visited in 5 years.

[Phil H]

Thanks Allan, I was interested in the review on the Truffle & Wine Co Pinot. I noticed it on a certain discount wine website advertised reduced from $100 to $30. It appears that a lot of these wines appear on this site for a reason....you get what you pay for. Come to think about it, it's possible the Eddystone Point was also on this site. No votes for either of them.

[mjs]

Just a couple of question. Was the Marchand & Burch NSG under screw cap? And was it 1er or Villages?

[Polymer]

Pascal Marchand has employed two super talented winemakers and the results are beginning to show, although most 2010 NSG aren't in a good place right now, and virtually all need to be re-visited in 5 years.

I tend to find their stuff a bit on the oaky side...well more than a bit..

But that said, their AU Pinot is pretty good..it has the right Pinot feel to it anyways...

Sounds like a great offline....thanks for sharing

[Waiters Friend]

Just a couple of question. Was the Marchand & Burch NSG under screw cap? And was it 1er or Villages?

Screwcap and villages

[felixp21]

Pascal Marchand has employed two super talented winemakers and the results are beginning to show, although most 2010 NSG aren't in a good place right now, and virtually all need to be re-visited in 5 years.

I tend to find their stuff a bit on the oaky side...well more than a bit..

But that said, their AU Pinot is pretty good..it has the right Pinot feel to it anyways...

Sounds like a great offline....thanks for sharing

.... new owner, new winemakers, two new wineries. Very good stuff, did not notice the oak in either the 15 or 16's in barrel. Worth re-visiting

[Craig(NZ)]

Dry River Pinot Noir 2010 (Martinborough NZ, 13% alc) is a light purple in colour. It’s porty, with raisined and stewed fruits, and what appeared to be high or prominent alcohol. The palate is also raisined with over-ripe fruit, a high viscosity and palate weight. Possible 2-3 years past its best, this was a monster which was more light a heavy dry red than a pinot. 3 votes.

A common long standing criticism of this wine, and one I adhere to. Those "in the know" say it just needs cellar time but I am not convinced. Perhaps the only one propping up it's reputation is the points generosity of BC. Pinot Noir should be Pinot Noir, not Syrah. It should be pretty, detailed, haunting and ethereal. It should charm and seduce. It should flirt, tease and always play hard to get.

[michel]

Dry River Pinot Noir 2010 (Martinborough NZ, 13% alc) is a light purple in colour. It’s porty, with raisined and stewed fruits, and what appeared to be high or prominent alcohol. The palate is also raisined with over-ripe fruit, a high viscosity and palate weight. Possible 2-3 years past its best, this was a monster which was more light a heavy dry red than a pinot. 3 votes.

A common long standing criticism of this wine, and one I adhere to. Those "in the know" say it just needs cellar time but I am not convinced. Perhaps the only one propping up it's reputation is the points generosity of BC. Pinot Noir should be Pinot Noir, not Syrah. It should be pretty, detailed, haunting and ethereal. It should charm and seduce. It should flirt, tease and always play hard to get.

I concur Craig
I don't do dry red pinot anymore
I find NZ & Australia has some makers still pursuing extraction style....

[JamieBahrain]

I just did an NZ Central Otago pinot vertical with a lot of Felton Rd Block 3 magnums. I don't have the interest or time to write the event up but I really find CO wines dreary wth their cola-heat spikes.

My WOTN blind was a modest Vosne Romanee 2011 which was a convincing last with everyone else. It was obviously a Burgundy and I just couldn't abide the competition.

I must say, when I spend time there, my palate does adjust a little.

[michel]

I just did an NZ Central Otago pinot vertical with a lot of Felton Rd Block 3 magnums. I don't have the interest or time to write the event up but I really find CO wines dreary wth their cola-heat spikes.

My WOTN blind was a modest Vosne Romanee 2011 which was a convincing last with everyone else. It was obviously a Burgundy and I just couldn't abide the competition.

I must say, when I spend time there, my palate does adjust a little.

Last time I was in CO I asked at a wine shop for delicate expressive pinots which aren't turbocharged
The lady in the shop said they are all light bodied in style & not dry red at all

[JamieBahrain]

Yeah I feel many don't get it in Central Otago.

I don't mean to diss the region. Actually, when I am there and skiing or trekking and enjoying the amazing outdoors and fresh produce, I enjoy the wines which sort of capture the spirit of the place. They are probably better appreciated wines if seen in a non-Burgundian light !

At our tasting event, a few of my good freinds from Europe were in complete disagrreance with me and felt CO the next big thing !

[michel]

Valli & Mishas?
I found surprisingly ok

[DaveS]

I've done the CO wine route a couple of times and both times walked about feeling disappointed. I ended up buying more whites than pinots. One of the most over rated wine regions in the world in my opinion, scenery aside.

[felixp21]

I've done the CO wine route a couple of times and both times walked about feeling disappointed. I ended up buying more whites than pinots. One of the most over rated wine regions in the world in my opinion, scenery aside.

+1

[michel]

I've done the CO wine route a couple of times and both times walked about feeling disappointed. I ended up buying more whites than pinots. One of the most over rated wine regions in the world in my opinion, scenery aside.

I am assuming aromatic whites
The chardonnay doesnt inspire me......

[Polymer]

For some reason, many Aussies think Central Otago is sweet and somehow AU Pinot is far more Pinot like...which is not the case at all...

Central Otago might have sweet fruit, but the texture is right, the acid is right....it tastes and feels like Pinot...they don't make it like a Shiraz (not all of them anyways).

As a whole I'd say NZ Pinot crushes AU Pinot...not even close really...

[michel]

Please name these crushing NZ pinots!

[DaveS]

I've done the CO wine route a couple of times and both times walked about feeling disappointed. I ended up buying more whites than pinots. One of the most over rated wine regions in the world in my opinion, scenery aside.

I am assuming aromatic whites
The chardonnay doesnt inspire me......

Mainly riesling

[felixp21]

Please name these crushing NZ pinots!

yes, looking forward to that too!!!!!

[TiggerK]

Please name these crushing NZ pinots!

yes, looking forward to that too!!!!!

Why? So you can say how you prefer all the Australian Pinots because they taste more 'Burgundian'??

[Polymer]

Please name these crushing NZ pinots!

I'm talking in general..it isn't even close really..

Typical AU Pinot is big, overripe, overextracted, oaky, heavy...made like a shiraz. Texture is wrong, acid is wrong..overall mouthfeel is wrong. They try to get the power of a GC Burg but they have none of elegance...Of course there are exceptions and I do see things changing..but you had a country that for so long was trying to get to 16-17% alcohol..they were never going to be successful with Pinot Noir without a complete change in philosophy (again, there are exceptions). With the disaster that was 2011, I think for the first time I saw actual decent Pinots coming out of a number of places...I've actually had one place apologize at a tasting event for it being so light in color...and in my head I was thinking why? You should be congratulated, this is the first time you've made a real Pinot...

NZ Pinot tends to be lighter, less ripe, less oaky (although plenty of ones with a lot), better acidity...slightly sweeter fruit but generally not as overextracted or overripe as AU Pinot.....When you're looking for a Burgundy fix, but without the price tag, it is a good alternative...I'd also put some Oregon Pinot and Beaujolais in that same "get my fix" category....

A couple of good examples might be:

Escarpment Pahi (Not Kupe).
Valli (Waitiki but most of them are good).

Of course, this is just my opinion...If you want big ripe Pinots..AU Pinots are probably great for you...I just have a hard time seeing how anyone that likes Red Burgundy, really enjoys AU Pinot (Not that you can't)...I guess if you tend to drink mainly GC Burg or prefer Beaune to Nuits then it is easier to see that...

Please name these crushing NZ pinots!

yes, looking forward to that too!!!!!

Why? So you can say how you prefer all the Australian Pinots because they taste more 'Burgundian'??

They're definitely not more Burgundian .
(Although I do think Geelong is the exception to what I've said in general and can be quite Burgundian).

[Ian S]

If I want Burgundy, then I'll buy Burgundy (well if I could afford it!)

I would rather other regions create their own style, rather than trying to be poor copies. I do like much of what comes out of Martinborough, and for the price, I'd generally choose it over Burgundy. I've had a couple of good German Pinot Noirs, but they seem keen to rival or beat the prices in Burgundy!

It's been a while since I've tried an Aussie Pinot Noir, but I do recall there being a variety of styles. Surprised that anyone is making a 16-17% alc version, though I'm aware there are producers in the US hitting those levels and higher. I'd not be enthusiastically rushing to taste those.

[michel]

If I want Burgundy, then I'll buy Burgundy (well if I could afford it!)

I would rather other regions create their own style, rather than trying to be poor copies. I do like much of what comes out of Martinborough, and for the price, I'd generally choose it over Burgundy. I've had a couple of good German Pinot Noirs, but they seem keen to rival or beat the prices in Burgundy!

It's been a while since I've tried an Aussie Pinot Noir, but I do recall there being a variety of styles. Surprised that anyone is making a 16-17% alc version, though I'm aware there are producers in the US hitting those levels and higher. I'd not be enthusiastically rushing to taste those.

I have never seen a 16% pinot- what is it called?

[Craig(NZ)]

Nothing beats the Martinborough Vineyards Reserves of the 90's. The 1998 would be n my top 5 NZ wines ever

[Waiters Friend]

I have never seen a 16% pinot- what is it called?

Zinfandel