Hi all,
Just attempting to assist my younger brother work out a list on wineries to consider visiting as he has just landed in Italy on a 5 week trip. If I can ask for tips and advice from more experienced forum members that would be very much appreciated.
His itinery is very open and he is deliberately playing things by ear at this point. The basic plan however is to visit Sicily, Friuli, Piedmont, Tuscany and perhaps other regions.
From what I've read it is really beneficial if not mandatory to book a tasting appointment as a rule? If so I assume the sooner the contact is made the better.
I've put a little list of possible options, mostly in the Piedmont regions. This list is based on WF reviews and recommendations listed in the Nebbiolo/Barolo/Barbaresco thread on this forum. If anyone can add additional recommendations for any of the regions listed or advise which wineries you would recommend contacting that would be fantastic. Basically any winery that you feel would be an enjoyable, educational, welcoming and most importantly tasty experience.
The other aspect we are a little unsure of is whether freighting wine back to Australia is viable? Is there a method of sending a mixed dozen back to Australia in a way that doesn't defeat the purpose of purchasing the wines at Italian prices?
Would it simply be better to box the wines, check them in and declare? The only time I've personally brought wine back into the country was from New Zealand and customs didn't bother charging me any additional tax despite having 6 bottles. Perhaps I was just lucky?
Thanks in advance
Current options list:
G.D Vajra
Vietti
Produttori
Burlotto
Cascina
Giovanni Canonica
Serfavino Rivella
Monchiero
La Ca Nova
Olek Bondonio
Benevelli
Cigliuiti
Trediberri
Passopisciaro
Azienda Agricola
Request for advice - Trip to Italy
Re: Request for advice - Trip to Italy
Hi Rosewaterwrx
Yes in general appointments are essential. Even at those that operate a tasting room, it generally pays to book an appointment as they'll treat you with respect rather than disinterest when you do so.
Most will have an English speaker available to respond to emails, though I've got enough Italian to be able to write and understand the response in Italian. In some ways emailing in English makes sense, as it alerts them that these visitors may need an English speaker for the tour & tasting. They'll often reply inside 2-3 days, but it can take up to a week or two. I'd recommend sending a chaser after 7-10 days has passed without reply. After that if another week passes by without contact, then I'll scrub that producer from the plans and try someone else.
Visits can typically take anything between an hour to an hour and a half. Plot the route on Google maps and some you may even be able to walk between (smart organisation can thus leave the car parked at the lunchtime restaurant, strolling between the wineries before returning there. This allows the driver to do a fair amount of tasting.
Do try to avoid asking for tastings between ~ 1pm and 2:30pm. Though not prescriptive, Italians do value lunch, and whilst they don't have the usual Italian ~ 1pm- 4pm break, they do appreciate relaxing over a decent plate of food. Conversely, an appointment at 5pm or 5:30pm is often possible. FWIW we tend to aim for a 10am and 11:30am tasting, then take lunch. if needing to fit a few more tastings in, I'd maybe look for a 2.30pm and 4pm tasting, but leave a little extra time if the wineries are more than a 5-10 minute drive away. There is usually a little negotiation on times, so we've tended to book half the appointments and then go to the remainder with a firm idea of what time slots we have free.
Charges vary, often no charge at all, to very occasionally eye-watering charges - I heard someone quoted a shocking figure for Vietti, yet someone else had a more modest fee waived when they bought. It's considered polite to buy a bottle or more if you like the wines, but producers are very understanding of the problems of international flights and will not act disappointed if you don't buy. Only at Poliziano in Montepulciano were we pressured to buy - which was genuinely shocking considering the usual understanding - and we'd even paid for the tour & tasting there! One way to alleviate the problems, are to buy some wines that you are happy to drink on your travels, so maybe the odd Barbera or Arneis in addition to the usual fancy B&Bs
Others here will have good advice on getting bottles home, but I'd be wary of assuming savings and also that the shipping was refrigerated. Some producers will do shipping and even allow you to include wines from others in the shipment. Even to the UK, my focus these days is on buying stuff I just don't see at home, or where the local prices are gouging in comparison. Worth looking at what options the airline has for baggage allowance & buying extra space. Then take advice from others here about the best way to 'declare' the wines. Italy are pretty good on packaging these days, with plenty of polystyrene inserts, or double-walled cardboard.
Producers
========
A couple are missing part of the name e.g. Azienda Agricola = a farm and Cascina is a farmhouse. I'm guessing the Azienda Agricola might be COS?
Do put these wineries into a Google map, to judge distances and start to group them such that you might base in Monforte, but have a day in Serralunga, and another in La Morra / Annunziata. Best to avoid backtracking, but even better to choose neighbours to allow the option re: the car mentioned earlier. Also give the driving a break one day, by only visiting producers in walking distance. The walking is brilliant, especially when walking through the vineyards, which are almost all open to walk through. Linked to this, don't be at all afraid to pop a relative unknown winery into the plans. There are some little gems out there that rarely get tasted by the (so called) experts, who it seems only sample from a pre-defined list of accepted names.
Taking the ones I've visited in turn.
Produttori - are a rarity in the region for having a drop-in tasting room, but having done a drop-in visit, I'd recommend an appointment. The drop in tasting was poor - they were disinterested. You will get a much better experience from an appintment.
Burlotto - Popular with forumites on every wine forum, but justifiably so. The range is immense (including 2 Sauvignon Blancs! both good interesting!!) and there is plenty to interest. One interesting comparison is between the standard Barolo, the Verduno cross vineyard blend (Acclivi) and the single vineyard wines. Do taste the Pelaverga as well, a Verduno speciality that is a light vibrant red that is one I'd have no qualms about opening whilst in Italy.
La Ca Nova - I think this might be down to me they're on the list. In terms of value, it's hard to look past these guys. Plenty of tradition here, and the sprawling buildings are pleasing a little ramshackled. All very friendly and low key. I do like the wines, not claiming them to be the greatest examples, but they are good, slightly rustic renditions that are very enjoyable to drink.
Other regions & route planning
=========================
Certainly plenty of interesting wines outside of Piemonte, and Friuli is perhaps the most interesting wine region of all, being at the epicentre of all things natural and orange in Italy. If staying there, I'd certainly be keen to sample. If going as far as Trieste, I'm told the coffee is excellent there.
Driving the whole way can keep things simple, and the penalty for dropping off at a different location to picking up would be outweighed by the better rates for long term rents. Also worth looking at a short term lease for 5 weeks, which might even be cheaper. If not, Trenitalia are excellent, great value, especially when taking advantage of cheap pre-booked tickets, pretty reliable on punctuality and the newer Freccia trains are very good. We usually trade up to 1st class, but 2nd class is still good. Book/Plan via Trenitalia.com.
If you'll have a car, then do consider Agriturismo accomodation, farmstays - but often high quality, with those serving food having good-great quality, far too much of it, often their produce or that or their neighbours and often at generously cheap prices. We'll tend to go for either agriturismo, or apartment, but preferably an apartment in an agriturismo.
Plan the route with an eye to avoiding backtracking. e.g. Sicily -> Amalfi Coast -> Tuscany -> Piedmont - > Friuli OR accept that one (such as Sicily) is out on a limb, so start there, and then fly to Tuscany or Friuili, visiting the others in sequence. From UK I'm often taking into account flight/airport options, but this will be more of a constraint from Aus. You may find that you've only got 3-4 arrival/departure airports to choose from, without seriously upping the costs.
Personally I'd aim to make sure we finished whilst we had the hire car - making the extra weight of wine bottles easy to manage.
Hope this helps, but plenty more to cover if needed.
regards
Ian
Yes in general appointments are essential. Even at those that operate a tasting room, it generally pays to book an appointment as they'll treat you with respect rather than disinterest when you do so.
Most will have an English speaker available to respond to emails, though I've got enough Italian to be able to write and understand the response in Italian. In some ways emailing in English makes sense, as it alerts them that these visitors may need an English speaker for the tour & tasting. They'll often reply inside 2-3 days, but it can take up to a week or two. I'd recommend sending a chaser after 7-10 days has passed without reply. After that if another week passes by without contact, then I'll scrub that producer from the plans and try someone else.
Visits can typically take anything between an hour to an hour and a half. Plot the route on Google maps and some you may even be able to walk between (smart organisation can thus leave the car parked at the lunchtime restaurant, strolling between the wineries before returning there. This allows the driver to do a fair amount of tasting.
Do try to avoid asking for tastings between ~ 1pm and 2:30pm. Though not prescriptive, Italians do value lunch, and whilst they don't have the usual Italian ~ 1pm- 4pm break, they do appreciate relaxing over a decent plate of food. Conversely, an appointment at 5pm or 5:30pm is often possible. FWIW we tend to aim for a 10am and 11:30am tasting, then take lunch. if needing to fit a few more tastings in, I'd maybe look for a 2.30pm and 4pm tasting, but leave a little extra time if the wineries are more than a 5-10 minute drive away. There is usually a little negotiation on times, so we've tended to book half the appointments and then go to the remainder with a firm idea of what time slots we have free.
Charges vary, often no charge at all, to very occasionally eye-watering charges - I heard someone quoted a shocking figure for Vietti, yet someone else had a more modest fee waived when they bought. It's considered polite to buy a bottle or more if you like the wines, but producers are very understanding of the problems of international flights and will not act disappointed if you don't buy. Only at Poliziano in Montepulciano were we pressured to buy - which was genuinely shocking considering the usual understanding - and we'd even paid for the tour & tasting there! One way to alleviate the problems, are to buy some wines that you are happy to drink on your travels, so maybe the odd Barbera or Arneis in addition to the usual fancy B&Bs
Others here will have good advice on getting bottles home, but I'd be wary of assuming savings and also that the shipping was refrigerated. Some producers will do shipping and even allow you to include wines from others in the shipment. Even to the UK, my focus these days is on buying stuff I just don't see at home, or where the local prices are gouging in comparison. Worth looking at what options the airline has for baggage allowance & buying extra space. Then take advice from others here about the best way to 'declare' the wines. Italy are pretty good on packaging these days, with plenty of polystyrene inserts, or double-walled cardboard.
Producers
========
A couple are missing part of the name e.g. Azienda Agricola = a farm and Cascina is a farmhouse. I'm guessing the Azienda Agricola might be COS?
Do put these wineries into a Google map, to judge distances and start to group them such that you might base in Monforte, but have a day in Serralunga, and another in La Morra / Annunziata. Best to avoid backtracking, but even better to choose neighbours to allow the option re: the car mentioned earlier. Also give the driving a break one day, by only visiting producers in walking distance. The walking is brilliant, especially when walking through the vineyards, which are almost all open to walk through. Linked to this, don't be at all afraid to pop a relative unknown winery into the plans. There are some little gems out there that rarely get tasted by the (so called) experts, who it seems only sample from a pre-defined list of accepted names.
Taking the ones I've visited in turn.
Produttori - are a rarity in the region for having a drop-in tasting room, but having done a drop-in visit, I'd recommend an appointment. The drop in tasting was poor - they were disinterested. You will get a much better experience from an appintment.
Burlotto - Popular with forumites on every wine forum, but justifiably so. The range is immense (including 2 Sauvignon Blancs! both good interesting!!) and there is plenty to interest. One interesting comparison is between the standard Barolo, the Verduno cross vineyard blend (Acclivi) and the single vineyard wines. Do taste the Pelaverga as well, a Verduno speciality that is a light vibrant red that is one I'd have no qualms about opening whilst in Italy.
La Ca Nova - I think this might be down to me they're on the list. In terms of value, it's hard to look past these guys. Plenty of tradition here, and the sprawling buildings are pleasing a little ramshackled. All very friendly and low key. I do like the wines, not claiming them to be the greatest examples, but they are good, slightly rustic renditions that are very enjoyable to drink.
Other regions & route planning
=========================
Certainly plenty of interesting wines outside of Piemonte, and Friuli is perhaps the most interesting wine region of all, being at the epicentre of all things natural and orange in Italy. If staying there, I'd certainly be keen to sample. If going as far as Trieste, I'm told the coffee is excellent there.
Driving the whole way can keep things simple, and the penalty for dropping off at a different location to picking up would be outweighed by the better rates for long term rents. Also worth looking at a short term lease for 5 weeks, which might even be cheaper. If not, Trenitalia are excellent, great value, especially when taking advantage of cheap pre-booked tickets, pretty reliable on punctuality and the newer Freccia trains are very good. We usually trade up to 1st class, but 2nd class is still good. Book/Plan via Trenitalia.com.
If you'll have a car, then do consider Agriturismo accomodation, farmstays - but often high quality, with those serving food having good-great quality, far too much of it, often their produce or that or their neighbours and often at generously cheap prices. We'll tend to go for either agriturismo, or apartment, but preferably an apartment in an agriturismo.
Plan the route with an eye to avoiding backtracking. e.g. Sicily -> Amalfi Coast -> Tuscany -> Piedmont - > Friuli OR accept that one (such as Sicily) is out on a limb, so start there, and then fly to Tuscany or Friuili, visiting the others in sequence. From UK I'm often taking into account flight/airport options, but this will be more of a constraint from Aus. You may find that you've only got 3-4 arrival/departure airports to choose from, without seriously upping the costs.
Personally I'd aim to make sure we finished whilst we had the hire car - making the extra weight of wine bottles easy to manage.
Hope this helps, but plenty more to cover if needed.
regards
Ian
-
rosewaterwrx
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2010 6:20 pm
Re: Request for advice - Trip to Italy
That is a huge help, thanks Ian.
I actually went back and re-read the Barolo/Barbaresco/Nebbiolo thread and found some fantastic advice in that thread as well.
Very much appreciated
I actually went back and re-read the Barolo/Barbaresco/Nebbiolo thread and found some fantastic advice in that thread as well.
Very much appreciated