TN: 1996 Penfolds Trial Bin Chardonnay

[n4sir]

1996 Penfolds Trial Bin Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills (cork): 13% alc. Deep amber. Well into its twilight years now, smelling of wildflowers, wood toast, French nougat, oyster shells and haleznut, a little Grand Marnier; while the fruit on the palate is fading the acidity is still in balance, the finish just beginning to dry on the end, a little crisp apple reappearing minutes after being swallowed. Despite the toastiness of the nose, malo influences don’t seem obvious in contrast to the Yattarna. At 21 years it’s getting into curio territory, although it is notably in much better shape than the 1996 Yattarna tried last year. This should say something about the staying power of modern Reserve Bin A wines also from the Adelaide Hills, at the same time justifying the decision to move Yattarna away from the likes of McLaren Vale to much cooler climate fruit sources.




Cheers,
Ian